New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

RTIII said:
(Looks to me it's the exact same jack as is used for microphones in the USA - and other "professional" music connections for a sound stage.)
It is. It's the Neutrik brand XLR 3-pin connector.

There's a lot of other possible connectors they could have used, but there are actually a fair number of existing bikes and batteries that have used XLRs as the input (I have an old Crystalyte NiCd pack, for instance, though it's dead).

It's pretty durable, and it can handle current up to the level the Satiator can output, and is designed to deal with 48v phantom power for mics and such.


The problem is that they put this intermediate jack way out on the end of a fairly long lead so that the adapter lead you then connect to it is fairly short - WRONG WAY AROUND, if you ask me!
That can be true, for the reasons you've stated (that I didn't quote), and others.

Personally, I just use a panel mount XLR on the bike itself for charging with the Satiator. It's one from Grin, and comes with a water-resistant cover. This is it under the battery cutoff switch (which has since been moved, but the XLR is still there).
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Before mounting it
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The Satiatior is also designed to bolt directly to the bike or vehicle if you only use it on one; it's vibration and weather resistant, and then can be wired straight in if you like. Until I got the HLG meanwells I was going to do that on the trike, with a switch on the output to toggle it between the lighting pack and the traction pack, leaving it where I could see the screen and push the buttons to switch between the two voltage pack profiles.
 
aja said:
How happy are you with the Satiator? The charger that came with my battery makes a whirring noise (fan, clearly). Tempted by the Satiator but it's almost the cost of the motor, given I'd have to import it and pay taxes. Looks neat though, especially as it's quiet, adjustable, extends battery life, allows faster charges and shows the Ah used.


I have two and couldn't be happier. I believe it paid for itself by extending one batteries useful life. I charge at 80-90% and occasionally at 100%. I can charge 12V to 52V batteries with one QUIET charger.
 
I'm planning to add a monitoring system to my TSDZ2 bike(s) and would like some input. One key thing I want to do is correlate cadence data with power consumption and voltage. I'd like to help answer the deeper TSDZ2 questions about cadence - we've all seen the questions in this thread!

A week or so ago someone on this thread posted images and a link to more that came from a system he has on his TSDZ2 bike that gives amps, volts and cadence data, along with a lot more, including altitude! I wrote him to ask what that system was and got no reply. I THINK it's the Speedict Mars product. Here's a link:

https://www.speedict.com/product-page/speedict-mars

This is about a $100 solution, roughly.

Other than this one, the only other way I've figured to do this is to use the Grin Cycle Analyst V3 with logger (and to match that poster's capabilities the GPS data, too). This is a more than $300 solution.

Does anyone know of another solution?

Here are my thoughts about the two:

+ The Mars unit is priced just over $100 USD - today it's about $89 for the main Mars unit and the rest is the PAS sensor and shipping.

- The CA3 solution is well over $300, complete.

- The Speedict organization's reputation is poor, probably because using blue-tooth to connect is an inherently flaky connectivity strategy (a micro-USB approach would have been a LOT more reasonable, with blue-tooth as a possible backup / alternative).

- The Grin organization's reputation is stellar, and especially the "CA" community - lots of hard-core adherents.

+ The Mars unit is feature rich for this use-case - and due to the live mapping, one might say, so long as the blue-tooth link is working, awesome.

- The CA3 solution has a lot of "unnecessary" (for this use-case) features and requires lots of expensive add-ons yet, due to the mapping issue only to end up with a weaker user-experience (by comparison) ... unless I really misunderstand the GPS logger's functionality.

- The CA3 solution - in large part because it's packaged piecemeal - would give the user a lot of cables they just don't need.

Other solutions? Thoughts?
 
After much frustration trying to get information on reprogramming the TSDZ2 I am now thinking about bypassing the TSDZ2 controller entirely and going with a CA3/Grinfineon solution. This will give total control over the motor and hopefully still keep cool TSDZ2 features like torque sensing and coaster brake support.

After looking at a picture of the TSDZ2 controller it looks like it has standard phase and hall sensor wiring so it should be possible to bypass the controller with an external controller like the Grinfineon. Does anyone know of anyone who has tried or done this?

On the torque sensor and internal PAS side it looks like the voltages are all in line with what the cycle analyst can handle from a torque sensor/PAS setup. Let me know if if anyone has any thoughts, cautions or experience on this.
 
Rydon said:
After much frustration trying to get information on reprogramming the TSDZ2 I am now thinking about bypassing the TSDZ2 controller entirely and going with a CA3/Grinfineon solution. This will give total control over the motor and hopefully still keep cool TSDZ2 features like torque sensing and coaster brake support.

After looking at a picture of the TSDZ2 controller it looks like it has standard phase and hall sensor wiring so it should be possible to bypass the controller with an external controller like the Grinfineon. Does anyone know of anyone who has tried or done this?

On the torque sensor and internal PAS side it looks like the voltages are all in line with what the cycle analyst can handle from a torque sensor/PAS setup. Let me know if if anyone has any thoughts, cautions or experience on this.

Funny you should ask this now, Rydon! Just today, after reading up on the CA3, I reached out to Eye to ask him about that, but didn't reach him. Justin wrote me about what I had just written in my post right before yours and proposed just replacing the TSDZ2's controller outright, but I'm just not ready for that. For one, I don't want to be the first, and second because what I would like to do shouldn't require it. And, it adds a bit of expense.

But if you go for it, I'm VERY interested in your success! Please take lots of pictures and great notes on exactly what you're doing, so if you get it right, others can easily follow, and if you get something wrong, we can know to avoid those mistakes!
 
tomjasz said:
aja said:
How happy are you with the Satiator? The charger that came with my battery makes a whirring noise (fan, clearly). Tempted by the Satiator but it's almost the cost of the motor, given I'd have to import it and pay taxes. Looks neat though, especially as it's quiet, adjustable, extends battery life, allows faster charges and shows the Ah used.


I have two and couldn't be happier. I believe it paid for itself by extending one batteries useful life. I charge at 80-90% and occasionally at 100%. I can charge 12V to 52V batteries with one QUIET charger.

Thanks tomjasz - another product to save up for, sigh!
 
HiYa :D
Been lurking this thread for some time and finally joined ES after i splashed out on the 350w version of the TSDZ2. I went with a deal from PSW Power which included the brake levers and the throttle(which i don't intend to use) and the VLCD-5 display, The brake levers i wanted because i don't fancy barreling into a tree under full power because a resistor or something let go in the controller.
I already have a Bafang equipped bike which i built last year so i have some idea of what i am doing and figured it would be a breeze.WRONG!! Yes fitting the motor and wiring etc, no problem, basically same as the bafang but less wires to hide. My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc. Everything else works fine because i took it for a test run, except i was doing 99.9 kph and a 1 and a 1/2 mile journey registered as 58 kilometers so somethings obviously not right. The 99.9 KPH wasn't all the time just the max, its zero at a standstill and does change with the change in speed but with the wrong size wheel settings and probably 02 on the magnet setting its way, way wrong.
.I did try search but nothing came up, I have actually read all 50 pages over the last few weeks but i don't fancy rereading the lot on the off-chance that its been covered before. Any suggestions or help would be welcome as what little hair i have left is rapidly disappearing.
 
whiteturbo said:
HiYa :D
Been lurking this thread for some time and finally joined ES after i splashed out on the 350w version of the TSDZ2. I went with a deal from PSW Power which included the brake levers and the throttle(which i don't intend to use) and the VLCD-5 display, The brake levers i wanted because i don't fancy barreling into a tree under full power because a resistor or something let go in the controller.
I already have a Bafang equipped bike which i built last year so i have some idea of what i am doing and figured it would be a breeze.WRONG!! Yes fitting the motor and wiring etc, no problem, basically same as the bafang but less wires to hide. My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc. Everything else works fine because i took it for a test run, except i was doing 99.9 kph and a 1 and a 1/2 mile journey registered as 58 kilometers so somethings obviously not right. The 99.9 KPH wasn't all the time just the max, its zero at a standstill and does change with the change in speed but with the wrong size wheel settings and probably 02 on the magnet setting its way, way wrong.
.I did try search but nothing came up, I have actually read all 50 pages over the last few weeks but i don't fancy rereading the lot on the off-chance that its been covered before. Any suggestions or help would be welcome as what little hair i have left is rapidly disappearing.

These problems have been experienced before. The speed issue is most likely a bad sensor. ...Mine had me doing over 170 miles per hour! 8) :lol: I think I'm the fastest bicyclist ever recorded! :lol: ...The vendor was the guy who posts as Eye here (his nickname! ... Eyebisickle, I think?) and he replaced the sensor and all was well. A different guy, ... Tom, I think, posted about his problem of not being able to get into the setup mode and I don't know the current status. I think he got it direct from Tongsheng as some kind of demo-unit because he writes reviews of e-bike systems, if I recall correctly - I have no idea of the current status about that one.

I recommend you speak with your vendor and cite these comments. It's a start!
 
If I remember correctly, this problem can often be corrected by disconnecting the Battery, Senor & Display & changing the sequence in which you connect them. i.e. connect the battery AFTER the Display & Sensor have been plugged in or try connecting the Battery first.
I did run into this also but my customer corrected it himself so it might be worth a try.
 
whiteturbo said:
H ... My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc.

Perhaps you are in the setup mode and just don't know it. Everything looks the same. When you push the "i" button it toggles through the different display modes "trip", etc, just like normal but then it keeps going into the setup screens as you keep pushing it. Threw me the first time too. ;)
 
Rydon said:
whiteturbo said:
H ... My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc.

Perhaps you are in the setup mode and just don't know it. Everything looks the same. When you push the "i" button it toggles through the different display modes "trip", etc, just like normal but then it keeps going into the setup screens as you keep pushing it. Threw me the first time too. ;)

That thought did occur to me, so i toggled through using "i" and it goes trip,avg,time, then rE then rE 1 (i think its a 1 but it could be a right hand single bracket) at the end of that sequence it goes back into trip,avg,time without the rE and rE 1. It only displays the rE and rE 1 after the 3 second "start" and "i" so is this an error message to say something else is wrong? Has anyone else experienced this?

I have contacted PSWPower and they want me to return it for service or replacement (at my expense). I assume they mean just the VLCD-5, but anyway i want to be sure it is the VLCD-5 that is at fault before what i expect to be at least a six weeks wait.
 
whiteturbo said:
My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc.

[...]

That thought did occur to me, so i toggled through using "i" and it goes trip,avg,time, then rE then rE 1 (i think its a 1 but it could be a right hand single bracket) at the end of that sequence it goes back into trip,avg,time without the rE and rE 1. It only displays the rE and rE 1 after the 3 second "start" and "i" so is this an error message to say something else is wrong? Has anyone else experienced this?

I have contacted PSWPower and they want me to return it for service or replacement (at my expense). I assume they mean just the VLCD-5, but anyway i want to be sure it is the VLCD-5 that is at fault before what i expect to be at least a six weeks wait.

My computer is displaying the characters you provided there in a weird way... ...YES, there is an error code display that can come up on the unit, though I've never experienced it myself - I have read about it. Because I'm getting weird characters there, maybe take a photo of the display in that mode and post it here?

My suggestion what to do about it is to look for bent pins in the connectors.
 
whiteturbo said:
... My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc.

Hey whiteturbo, coincidentally I had a customer come in with the same rE problem you described. He brought in a TSDZ2 bike that he said wouldn't program. I had programmed it for his bike previously so I thought he just didn't know how to get it into program mode but like you he was emphatic that he was doing it right. I put it in setup mode and toggled through and got the same rE in the display you described. It consistently went into that mode until I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried it again. Then it went into the regular programming mode. Hope that helps!
 
Rydon said:
whiteturbo said:
... My problem is with the VLCD-5 display, I cant get into the hidden setup menue, yes i know you press the start button and the "I" button together for 3 secs but nothing happens so i cant change the wheel size or get out of kilometers(whats a kilometer :roll: lol) or turn off the speed limiter etc.

I put it in setup mode and toggled through and got the same rE in the display you described. It consistently went into that mode until I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and tried it again. Then it went into the regular programming mode. Hope that helps!

Thanks for replying Rydon, at last someone who has seen that problem before, i thought i was losing it lol. Anyway i am afraid your idea doesn't work, you see i must have disconnected the batteries 50 times but i still tried it once more just in case, i never leave my ebikes connected after i get back from a ride because i use RC Lipo's and you have to treat them with much respect(learnt from flying model helicopters). I have also checked all the plugs for bent pins etc. My only hope now is the vendor wants a video of the fault but they will have to make do with a photo of the rE screen and then if they accept that its a fault they will send me a replacement BUT charge me $30 for shipping, not happy about that as its not my fault they sent me a dud LCD so why should i pay extra to get it renewed, they should have checked that its working before they send, but i suppose that's why we get stuff so cheap from china.

P1020060small.jpg
 
OK a little update on my problem, Alice, the Chinese lady who i am talking to, showed my screen jpeg to the factory and they said the rE refers to the torque sensor and the number 088 says that its functioning correctly. Bearing in mind the language difficulties and Alice probably being a telephone operator with basic english, I don't think she conveyed to them that it was a reading obtained when i try to enter the setup menu. So i must try to keep my cool and persevere, At least they are still talking to me and i have not pissed them off yet. I have already found that its best to keep it short and one thing at a time when dealing with the Chinese, They don't seem to have got a handle on customer support properly yet.
I am beginning to wonder if i should just buy the XH-18 display and be done with it.
 
whiteturbo said:
OK a little update on my problem, Alice, the Chinese lady who i am talking to, showed my screen jpeg to the factory and they said the rE refers to the torque sensor and the number 088 says that its functioning correctly. Bearing in mind the language difficulties and Alice probably being a telephone operator with basic english, I don't think she conveyed to them that it was a reading obtained when i try to enter the setup menu. So i must try to keep my cool and persevere, At least they are still talking to me and i have not pissed them off yet. I have already found that its best to keep it short and one thing at a time when dealing with the Chinese, They don't seem to have got a handle on customer support properly yet.
I am beginning to wonder if i should just buy the XH-18 display and be done with it.
I just connected my motor after recently receiving an extension cable for the speed sensor. Same error came up.
I then disconnected the speed sensor and reconnected it - voila, problem solved. Everything else remained connected, battery switched on. You've probably already tried it but if not have a go :).
 
If you do as the manual says and hold the two buttons down as you turn the unit on, you won't get into the set up menu. Try turning on the unit and once the dispaly has settled, then press the two buttons down for a few seconds.
 
Waynemarlow said:
If you do as the manual says and hold the two buttons down as you turn the unit on, you won't get into the set up menu. Try turning on the unit and once the dispaly has settled, then press the two buttons down for a few seconds.

LOL it never occurred to me to turn it on while holding the start and "i" button. I turn it on with the start button, wait for it to settle,put on the backlight and the press the two buttons. I have also done it without the backlight on. I am convinced that i am getting into setup mode but only get the rE symbol instead of d1. Just to make it clear after pressing both buttons for 3 sec's(probably more) nothing changes, then you press "i" 4 times at which point i should be getting d1(where you then set wheel diam) but i don't get d1 i get rE. If i don't do the double press thing i dont get the rE thats why i think i am getting into the setup menu.

I am going to buy a replacement wheel sensor to eliminate that as the cause.


Latest update: PSWPower have agreed a replacement/repair i have to send it to them at my expense(about $20) and another $20 for postage of the replacement. Its the best i could hope for i suppose, but a good reason to buy from a local importer because then all problems are sorted for free.
 
RTIII said:
I'm planning to add a monitoring system to my TSDZ2 bike(s) and would like some input. One key thing I want to do is correlate cadence data with power consumption and voltage. I'd like to help answer the deeper TSDZ2 questions about cadence - we've all seen the questions in this thread!

A week or so ago someone on this thread posted images and a link to more that came from a system he has on his TSDZ2 bike that gives amps, volts and cadence data, along with a lot more, including altitude! I wrote him to ask what that system was and got no reply. I THINK it's the Speedict Mars prod

Hii, just mounted my motor bought from Eye, and waiting for the battery for my first e-biketour.commun planing to do the same : add monitoring for Amps and Volt.

My plan is to build it myself with an arduino, and an Amp sensor like this one :
http://www.dx.com/p/produino-acs712...r-module-for-arduino-blue-291549#.WfSZG3ZpHIU

Concerning the speed sensor, I am wondering if I can plug directly to the speed sensor of the TSDZ2 or if I need to add another speed sensor.

I downloaded the wiring diagram sent by Eye, but I didn't manage to translate it from Chinese. Anyone have a working OCR software for this pdf ?
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=525#p1299800

note: I am a total noob in electronics.
 
Anybody else experience water/moisture problems with this unit? We've installed 2, both of which failed long or short. The first failure came after riding through rain about 20 minutes: total loss of function not resolved after >18 hours drying out. Seemed water entered the motor housing and shorted something out. Replaced drive to get the user rolling fast again. A few days later the bike failed to power up after being left overnight in rain (a very wild multi-day mountainous camping trip), but after a few hours of drying out it powered up and has been fine since. We'd caulked the seams on the motor housing to avoid repeat of the first fail, but this second incident seemed to affect the twist controller, perhaps internal condensation. Otherwise we like it a lot.
 
tfahrner said:
Anybody else experience water/moisture problems with this unit?

We've done about 10 of them and so far no reported issues. I don't know if any have ridden in the rain. Good to know. Thanks for posting.
 
Just a response to a problem we had on the last ride. We were getting intermittent power on and off whilst riding, checked all the connectors etc and no problems. What it was, was the magnet on the wheel sensor had turned a 1/2 turn and was not close enough which was making contact sometimes only. Just re positioned it correctly and all was well.

Done nearly 300 miles of hard off road with lots of climbing and lots of wrong gear use by the inexperienced and all is going well so far. Nice units and definitely better than the BBS series for making you feel as though you are having to cycle rather than just a boost. One of our riders has opted for a small BBS01 as one of his knees is almost US and he is enjoying that, one of riders is not as fit as the rest of us and uses the TDSZ2 as an equaliser, that also works well. Interesting to monitor his battery useage as at first he was using nearly all 6.0 a/h on the 2 hour ride, now hes only using half that as he gets fitter.
 
Interested in the power cut off when the wheel magnet is out of position. I don't have a sensor cable at all and my TSDZ2 works fine and never have had a power cut out. Is there some other signal, other than speed, that is talking to the controller when you have a sensor cable present? I bought a cable from Germany that didn't match the connector on the TDSZ2. Wondering if I should try to find one that actually works. Other than missing out on an Odometer record, anyone know a reason I should have a working sensor cable?
 
I have the 5-6 pin extension cables in 500mm & 1000mm lengths if you need one itchyfoot but check your pins. If you have a throttle or newer style TSDZ2 you may need 6-7 pin cables which I don't have.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Just a response to a problem we had on the last ride. We were getting intermittent power on and off whilst riding, checked all the connectors etc and no problems. What it was, was the magnet on the wheel sensor had turned a 1/2 turn and was not close enough which was making contact sometimes only. Just re positioned it correctly and all was well.

That's strange: I've had all sorts of problems with the sensor and magnet, but never once has it caused any problem with the unit not working. However, I HAVE had an intermittent power on / of while riding problem that turned out to be a problem in the internal wiring of the battery, cured by dismantling it, disconnecting ALL the easily disconnected connections and then reassembling. You an read about that experience on this thread:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&start=50

Waynemarlow said:
Done nearly 300 miles of hard off road with lots of climbing and lots of wrong gear use by the inexperienced and all is going well so far. Nice units and definitely better than the BBS series for making you feel as though you are having to cycle rather than just a boost.

Yes, that, "this is NOT a moped" feeling is exactly why I wanted - and now love - my two TSDZ2 equipped systems.

Waynemarlow said:
One of our riders has opted for a small BBS01 as one of his knees is almost US and he is enjoying that

I got injured and so I bought a second unit, this time with throttle, and it does BOTH! :D If I ignore the throttle, I get all the boosting of pedaling just as normal, or, I can use the throttle to help get through those moments when I haven't got the muscle to get going on my own. In practice, as I have been healing, I started using only throttle because my knee was that bad, but it's helping to pedal some with range of motion and improve my strength and I've gradually been using less and less and less throttle. Today I rode three miles and only really used the throttle to get started, and a time or two to pick up speed I can't do without it. It's helping me heal while it's helping me get around and run my errands!

Waynemarlow said:
one of riders is not as fit as the rest of us and uses the TDSZ2 as an equaliser, that also works well. Interesting to monitor his battery useage as at first he was using nearly all 6.0 a/h on the 2 hour ride, now hes only using half that as he gets fitter.

Yes, I was getting 2.02 miles per amp hour with pure throttle use. Today I got more than three miles per amp hour (3.0 miles using 0.98 ah), so, as with your rider, I can chart my improvement by watching how much battery consumption is taking place!
 
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