new eZip motor

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latecurtis said:
I have some old LiPos I can probably run until next month I guess but it takes forever to charge them as each one needs to be charged separate.
How many times have I told you?
Charge the old 5.0Ah as paired sets, single 10Ah!
With power Y and balance Y, permanently connected, each pair is effectively a 10.0Ah Lipo.
Balance charge and confirm individual packs once before initial connection only, pair should never need separation, ever, again.
Do not separate ... ever!
Charge 2 @ 4A instead of 4 @ 2A.
If paired as I originally recommended, best capacity pack paired with worst and medium capacity paired, (they were all labeled with metered capacity), each pair should still be of fairly equal capacity.
 
I want to run the Dual motor 20" cargo bike. Those old packs work good for that with the Dual 24V 500 watt motors. I did a couple videos a few pages back on that build.

That 20" cargo bike would do 30 mph with two of those 36V packs though and I have two 36 volt controllers. I am not looking for 30 mph though. I want to go at least 40 mph so am looking for other motor options.
 
latecurtis said:
That 20" cargo bike would do 30 mph with two of those 36V packs though and I have two 36 volt controllers. I am not looking for 30 mph though. I want to go at least 40 mph so am looking for other motor options.
I would love a video of you flying down a hill @ 40mph on your little 20" bike with iffy brakes.
Oh, ... video of you, your face, your expression, as you finally come to realize the situation you've put yourself into.

Snowflakes hitting your face-eyeballs @ 40mph would be icing on the cake!
 
DrkAngel said:
Charge the old 5.0Ah as paired sets, single 10Ah!

It's not just convenience either. Lower charge rates extend the life of the battery. A 5A charger on 5Ah battery is 1C, or a fairly quick charge. A 5A charger on 2 x 5Ah batteries = 0.5C. Still on the fast side, but much gentler on the battery, especially if it's below 20*C. (Most the year where you live, right?)
 
I BALANCE charge always. I set the amps according to the LiPo pack. For my 8.0 pack I set it to 2.0 amps. For the 10.0 pack it is 2.5 amps.

When I charge the old packs Dan sent if I charge two in parallel I set it to 2.5 amps. If I charge a single 5.0 pack it is 1.5 amps.

As far as what DA said about rolling down a hill at 40 mph you will not see me do it in the City. I am sure I have gone down hills though that fast when I was a kid. I remember pedaling a ten speed from Amsterdam NY where my mother lived to Canajoharie NY which is approx. 22 miles. The road was Route 5. From the top of Tribes hill to the bottom is at least a quarter mile if not farther. The hill is rather steep.

Going down a hill however is not a problem on Tribes hill or millions of hills like it. In Schenectady however there is almost always an intersection at the bottom and Crane st. has an expressway exit and Broadway which is a main road. I often see bikes flying down it and sometimes even skateboards.

I do not ride my brakes all the way down but slow down every 1/2 a block or so so if the brakes do fail I have a chance of stopping the bike with my feet so I limit my speed to less than 20 mph. 40 mph down that hill is a Death wish or sheer suicide because of what is going on at the bottom. That is a very big difference from Tribes hill.

Also the feeling of gravity pulling you and the bike down a hill is not the same as an electric DC motor as the motor provides constant acceleration and 100% torque from 0 to 40 mph. Gravity starts off gradually and would only equal the force of a motor starting out if the decline were almost straight down. Thanks.

LC out.
 
Are we really trying to stretch there life. They are only 75 years old now how much longer will they live :mrgreen:

I started a post earlier today and I did a typo and blew it away.

I understand DA's reasoning. He has done a lot of low c rated packs but not sure of what he is doing now. You can slow charge them all you want but when they hit sub 3.0v per cell, it's not gonna help it's life cycle. The packs I sent were never charged below 5amps and 95% was bulk charged. Also they were charged just under 4.2 per cell maybe 4.15 to 4.18. I still have 9 packs of that group and they are still above 4ah per pack, not bad for cheap 7 year old packs. I will say I never and I mean never ran them below 3.3v per cell. Now most of my stuff now is Multistars 16AH and they are about 3 years old and they have been charged at 10amps bulk. Only time I have balanced them was new and when ever I take them out of the bike which is almost never. Last discharge was 15.5ah full charge and shut off 3.0v per cell the same way they we tested when new, just over 16AH. AS I had said before, running 12s with a 40a controller I still get 2+ miles per AH. Most is done at 20mph and do 35 when I hit the street along the 50 mph cars. It's maybe a mile but I still get 2 to 1 ratio. You need a big enough battery to supply the needed current without damaging them. Higher voltage is more efficient. My 18s pack is better than my 12s. To day in the cold I still managed 2+ to 1 ratio.

I want a copy too DA. 40 mph on a kids toy. Do you think the cops might think it was stolen? A gorilla riding a 20" bike, maybe it got away from the circus. ALL in fun LC I really don't wanna see it, as I had said before, even on good a full suspension 26" I don't recommend or do it anymore. What do you think what would of happened if you hit that pothole that took you down at slow speed.

Get yourself a nice 1000/1500 rear hub motor get a few new packs and go have fun. The most important thing by you is to have a chain and to pedal, most of the time. Bad Knee or not, it's good for you, you don't have to heavy pedal but you need to pedal. It's good for your heart and won't hurt your knee as much as walking.

Dan
 
Ok.

I was just out on the front porch and is close to freezing or 32 degrees.

Is it safe to charge LiPo in that temperature. Last year I had them inside charging but now I have my X box by the window where I charged them.

Also the 20" cargo bike is only 24 volts and is geared for 20 mph at 1,000 watts. It is not what I am building for 40 mph. I will be using one of my bike frames out on the back porch.

I want 24" wheels and have a 24" bike and like three 26" dual suspension frames. The problem is the 1,800 watt brushless motor I would like to order is 4,500 rpms at 48 volts which would be way over geared with a 24" wheel. I could put 20" wheels on a 26" dual suspension frame but then I would need to remove the pedal crank.

The 48 volt Unite motor is 1,000 watts and 3,000 rpm. One motor on a 24" wheel is over geared at 40 mph but two motors and controllers will work for that. Also 2,000 watts geared for 36.5 mph will be possible running 60 tooth and 10 tooth sprockets however that may not be possible. Spoke sprockets are also a poor choice as they tend to bend the wheel over time due to tension on the spokes.

electric scooter parts have freewheel clutches a wheel sprocket may be bolted to which is a better set up but a motor sprocket must be available. Electric scooter parts have quite a selection however to mount a motor on the back there has to be enough room so I may need to put 24" wheels on a 26" or 29" frame.

Also with the freewheel clutch set up there are no pedal options at all for a 24 or 20 inch wheel. The only place I know of that has flip flop hubs with left hand threading on the motor side is the Currie 26" wheel I got on the rear of the Currie which cost $120. $120 for a wheel is not an option. I did it once for the Currie but not doing it again and I need a 24" or a 20" wheel depending if I go with the brushed 3,000 rpm motors or the brushless 4,500 rpm motors. I have a 29" frame hanging up which needs new front forks and I have three 26" dual suspension frames.

The bottom I just added will work for 40 mph with a SINGLE 1,800 watt brushless motor if the controller will handle a 54 volt custom built pack. A 26" dual suspension frome or the 24" frame could be used. The 24" bike has a straight front wheel and perfect brakes. No pedal options for this build though as they do not make a 20" rim like the 26" Currie I do not believe.

Please let me know if it is ok to charge LiPo at 32 degrees. Thanks.

LC out.
 

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For pedaling to be beneficial, you must have "proper " pedaling position. Squatting on a 20" and trying to pedal will stress your knees badly. You want nearly full leg extension! On a 20" that might mean a 2 foot seat post.
 
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OK. They were already combined from the last time I ran them. average voltage is about 3.97V + /- .02V. All I needed to do was hook the balance plugs up. Can I combine them for a 22v - 20 Ah pack or not ?
Please let me know.

Yes I know. I could probably make that happen easily for the seat post. I could get a steel pole at Home Depot or use nuts and bolts and that flat 1/4" steel flat bar to put two seat posts together but it will not solve the freewheel clutch issue. Spoke sprockets eventually bend the wheel due to tension on one side of the spokes. The wheel becomes bent and after about a hundred miles or less the chain pops off.

Any sprocket that attaches to a freewheel weather bolted on or bolted to a freewheel clutch which screws on like a freewheel is a much better choice. It has been proven on my first build at the start of this post. The Currie with the original Unite motor upgrade was ran for about two years at 36 volts and 750 watts and there were no problems.

Enter the spoke sprockets. Problem after problem. I did it because I preferred #420 heavy duty chain over cheap thin #25 chain however did the chain ever break on the Currie. NO. I took off the motor which was still the most successful build ever in being reliable to put it on a 20" bike. :oops: :oops: :oops:

i am not crazy about 8mm chain as it is not much thicker than #25 but with straight wheels and the freewheel clutches a 72 tooth 8mm wheel and a 10 tooth 8mm motor will gear that Huffy dual suspension bike 37 mph at 1,800 watts which is close to if not perfect gearing at 48 volts. 6 volts more for 54 volts should do the trick for 40 mph if the 48 volt controller will handle it.

I may be using a 20" wheel in the back but the frame is 26" dual suspension and the front will be 24" wheel with stock brakes and no motor on the front will be needed for 40 mph. What do you think. Is it a good idea.

I wish I could afford a 20" FAT wheel in the back and if they made one with a flip flop hub with left thread on the motor side like the Currie that would be ideal to say the least. However I do not believe it exists and if it does It will probably cost hundreds of dollars.

Please let me know. LC out.
 
http://prntscr.com/h85d7s

OK. This LIFEPO4 pack has a balance connector. NO BMS.


If I were to build 10 - 6S packs from the box of 60 Full River cells I could charge them two at a time. I need to know my options. I would rather use the chargers I already own. If a 6S pack is not enough voltage it is simple to run two packs in series for 12S LIFEPO4. it is also simple to parallel series them by hooking each pack to bullet connectors which I am used to dealing with. Please let me know.

OK The bottom picture shows how I think it would be wired. I never charged LIFEPO4 with either of my LiPo chargers and I do not know if LIFEPO4 packs use balance connectors but it seems that the LiPo charger in balance mode is the same thing as a BMS so will balance plugs work to balance charge 6S LIFEPO4 the same way it will do for for 6S - LiPo ????
 

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latecurtis said:


OK. They were already combined from the last time I ran them. average voltage is about 3.97V + /- .02V. All I needed to do was hook the balance plugs up. Can I combine them for a 22v - 20 Ah pack or not ?
Please let me know.
yes ... if properly balance charged

latecurtis said:
Yes I know. I could probably make that happen easily for the seat post. I could get a steel pole at Home Depot or use nuts and bolts and that flat 1/4" steel flat bar to put two seat posts together but it will not solve the freewheel clutch issue.
Big ouch potential!
latecurtis said:
Spoke sprockets eventually bend the wheel due to tension on one side of the spokes. The wheel becomes bent and after about a hundred miles or less the chain pops off.
Try proper spoke maintenance.

latecurtis said:
Any sprocket that attaches to a freewheel weather bolted on or bolted to a freewheel clutch which screws on like a freewheel is a much better choice. It has been proven on my first build at the start of this post. The Currie with the original Unite motor upgrade was ran for about two years at 36 volts and 750 watts and there were no problems.
Enter the spoke sprockets. Problem after problem. I did it because I preferred #420 heavy duty chain over cheap thin #25 chain however did the chain ever break on the Currie. NO. I took off the motor which was still the most successful build ever in being reliable to put it on a 20" bike. :oops: :oops: :oops:
eZip 9/13/14 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&hilit=750&start=150#p946604 - 6/4/15 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&p=1055812&hilit=hammer#p1055812 = less than 9 months, not 2 years!

latecurtis said:
I may be using a 20" wheel in the back but the frame is 26" dual suspension and the front will be 24" wheel with stock brakes and no motor on the front will be needed for 40 mph. What do you think. Is it a good idea.
no ... but sounds like a spectacular batch of haphazard mismatches ...
 
DA said it politely. I will say NO, NO, NO!!!

You can't put a 20" on the back and a 24" on the front of a 26" frame. NO BRAKES and NO PEDALS!! You might even need to remove the crank as it might drag on the ground.

Are you really set on 40mph? Take the Schwinn, change the controller to a 72v and build your crappy LiFePo4 pack. that's ony 21 cells in series. So you could build a 20s 3p pack, using all of the cells. The Schwinn would do your 40mph at that voltage and the motor would last a few miles, if you did. One large pothole and you are scramble eggs.

But as said before DON"T DO IT!

Dan
 
what about the LIFEPO4 packs. six of the FULL RIVER CELLS

Can I balance charge them with the LiPo charger and a balance plug or do I need a BMS ??????????????????

That was my most important question. Please let me know.

LC out.
 
Thanks DA. I looked at it but did not see any 6S packs mentioned there. The packs they were talking about were about 50 volts.

However I think I may have found the answer to my own question.

It would make little sense to try to hook up a huge pack to a BMS which will cost $$$$$ : then go spend more $$$$$$$ for a 48 volt LIFEPO4 charger when I already own two LiPo chargers which will balance the packs.

The only question I have now is , if it is possible to combine two 6S - 5.0 LiPo packs like I did with Dan's old packs and treat them as a single 6S -10.0 pack will it also work for 6S LIFEPO4.

The box of 60 FULL RIVER cells will make 10 - 6S packs. However if I test them and they are all about the same voltage and then balance charge them (6 cells in series) : After two packs are charged can I combine two 6S packs in parallel for an 11 Ah pack exactly like I did with two 5.0 LiPo packs.

I can balance charge the 11 AH packs once combined but will have the option of running them at 22 Ah bu combining them with a parallel series bullet plug cable which I can solder together. 22 Ah at 12S. I wont run 6S LIFEPO4 as it will be weaker than 6S LiPo. I will use the LiPo I have for 6S and might get a Multistar 12.0 - LiPo pack to replace the old LiPo packs for short trips and use the 22 Ah LIFEPO4 packs for long trips.

It seems that the BMS has one negative wire and six positive wires and the balancer has one positive and six negative. What should I do ? Which way did he go. :lol: :lol:

This way I can make five 11 Ah packs from the box of FULL RIVER cells and with two LiPo chargers balance charge them two at a time ? I have many balance plug extensions and can solder 22 gauge speaker wire to them and hook the balance wires to the packs. (see my wiring diagram in the above post) Please let me know as it sounds like my best option. Thanks.

LC out.
 

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Wow, can't believe you read all of 57 threads and still have no idea.
 
Those threads were for 50+ volts and not any of my 6S LiPo chargers.

I don't have much $$$ and have to make what I have work. I have a $300 electric bill I cannot pay this month. I really do not have $$$ for anything so am not looking to buy expensive BMS and expensive LIFEPO4 chargers.

Both my Skycharger and the Megacharger Dan sent WILL charge 6S LIFEPO4. Therefore it only makes sense to build 6S LIFEPO4 packs and I can parallel series for 12S. That is why I did not read all those posts as I did not see how they will apply to what I am doing.

My diagrams are clear and simple. If all I need to do to use my LiPo chargers is run one positive wire and six negative wires I can do it. If I have to spend 5 hours reading about 60 volt BMS with a hundred cells each then I would rather not.

Also 12S LIFEPO4 is 36 volts which will work great for every e bike I own and if I do get the 48V - 1,800 watt brushless motor Three packs or 18S LIFEPO4 will give me 54 volts and 40 mph. :lol: :lol:

Therefore if there is any way possible to build and charge 6S packs it is what I want otherwise I may as well buy SLAs :cry: :cry:

Thanks.

LC out.
 
Choose a title about charging and read the thread.
Learn, then extrapolate.
 
4824.png

It appears that the 48 volt unit is cheaper than the 6S unit however I do not own a 48 volt charger.

Also my Skycharger says V type LIFEPO4. The FULL RIVER cells are not going to work right ?

Also I do not see where the bullet plugs go to the charger. How would I hook my 6S charger to it if it did work ?

I will read more but I like to keep things simple. I figured out without reading all those posts that my LiPo charger don't have a function for balancing LIFEPO4. Instead of reading posts I was reading the Skycharger manual and playing with the buttons.

DA. reminds me of my math teacher my last year of college back in 06. This guy would be showing a math problem on the chalkboard and I would be getting to the point where I almost got it or just starting to understand it and then he would go and show a different way to do it which would use twice as much chalk and I was done. CLASS OVER !! , and could not learn another thing until I got to the math lab after class. :lol: :lol:

There may be such a thing as being too smart because then most people cant understand it. I just want to order a 60 pack of FULL RIVER batteries and follow a simple wiring diagram to hook up a cheap BMS to 6 LIFEPO4 cells in series. I will charge and run all the packs with bullet plugs as Dan sent me a bunch of them.

I just cannot seem to figure out if my wiring diagram is right. I will go back and read a few more of the posts but do not see any diagrams. Sometimes I need to copy things to comprehend them. Just studying it wont work for me. If I copy it and change it so i see it clearer it helps it sink in.

This is a classic example of what I just said. I did not like the diagram on the left (bottom pic) so I changed it. I am now at the stage I was in math class starting to absorb the general idea of what is going on. Those guys on that post and DA are too far ahead of me so it would be like missing three math classes and coming back to class clueless as to what is going on.

I notice that most LIFEPO4 packs come with the BMS attached to the pack. I do not see why people would want to carry around the BMS when riding. Also when the cells fail you have to replace them so it seems like more work. I prefer to keep the BMS right next to the charger and plug it in with bullets just like LiPo. A pre - hook up cable between connections and can combine two 6S packs in parallel then in series to two other packs.

I think though I might be able to wire up a parallel series BMS. A single BMS to 12 cells. Two rows of six. I just need to look at the diagram.
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LIFPO4 cells explode. :lol: :lol:

Wow, can't believe you read all of 57 threads and still have no idea.

I guess.

At least cutting up the parallel board Dan sent me was not all for nothing. I was basically reverse engineering it but did not realize it at the time. I was just frustrated, cutting wires and scared to death of LiPo. :oops: At least I remembered how it worked. Not sure if it is still even around but served a purpose. I know what it is and what it is capable of accomplishing.

As far as BMS wiring I really don't see how it works. Only if six wires for negative and six for positive coming from the BMS would it make any sense at all to me. The good thing about it however is I do not need to understand it. I just need to know how to hook it up correctly. Maybe there is a mechanic 1,000 feet underground in area 51 having the same conversation with something not exactly human. :lol:

Yes I have had a few beers. I have to go get my laundry.


I have no idea why they do not have a Parallel board for LIFEPO4 but instead use a BMS for every row of batteries hooked up in series. Unless there are BMS for parallel series packs. Even if there are though the parallel board like is used for LiPo seems less complicated to solve the same equation. Back to what I said earlier about my math teacher. I like the KISS method. I know you all heard of it. :lol: :lol: Thanks.

LC out.
 
Alcohol induced regression?
.


NO.

Evolution.

I can learn awhile drinking.

Check this out. I figured out how it works without the assistance of an alien mind meld.
Once I saw the possibility on electron flow I got it.
 

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Evolution of man is really all that matters. Also comprehending what is going on in a daily perspective is an aspect of total awareness. I am not saying I am a big conspiracy theorist but face it. Do you honestly think the government really want old people around.

The human body. cells , molecules and the central nervous system have been studied for around 100 years or more. Do you seriously think that biological research involving life extension technologies have not been repressed due to lazy , greedy , filthy rich members of our government who support euthanasia.

I thought not. Please watch or rent the movie Rampage President down. Please get a clue. Before it is too late. Don't go out without a good cause. Thanks.

LC out.
 
http://prntscr.com/h8oivk


That is living proof the government is hacking my PC.

I took a selfie and as you can see they blocked it as it was less than 512 kb.
 
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Yea. The same selfie.

Clearly blocked at first but when I went to prove them doing their thing it reversed. :lol: I am genius without any doubt. Please do not go out without a fight.

thanks.


Lc out.
 
How do I know all of this. It is simple. I run four desktops for the game and the one on the left started beeping about a half hour or less and thought was memory as bad ram will do that.
However when reboot finished the flash game came back and was played and normal shut down was accomplished.

Then I clearly accomplished the image size reduction for less than 512 kb and it failed. Go ahead and blame drinking. A lot of people use that excuse for everything. It don't mean it is true.
I can sit down and drink a bottle of vodka with anybody and not even get in an argument. I bought one awhile ago and made the mistake of drinking with the guy downstairs.

I sat and play pirates an hour and five drinks later and he was arguing with his ol lady and throwing pots and pans of food out the window. I almost kicked his a s s but didn't. Happened about two months ago.

My ol ladies son in Florida is extremely perceptive about what the government is doing. However am doubting some of his sonic weaponry or ultrasonic weaponry he claims to be a victim of. I have engaged in many conversations where he claims to have been zapped by something.

The thing is though I studied advanced loudspeaker and subwoofer technology and an an expert in low frequency reproduction I am unfamiliar with sonic weaponry so am asking DAs advice. I can give him Mikes (my ol ladies son) number and mabye DA will know if it is Fact or Fiction. Thanks


LC out.
 
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