new eZip motor

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Damn boy ... !
Someone spike your vodka with PCP?
 
Getting back to your LiFePo4 battery problem.

Where in the world did you get that the government is controlling us? Did you talk to my mother? I thought you were a Trump believer.

The purpose of a BMS is more than just to balance charge them, it's other purpose is to protect them from you to over discharge them. The BMS will cut power when a cell gets to the LVC. that is the reason they are mounted to the battery. As I had said before that LiFePo cells are like LiPo is that they are both damaged when they are over CHARGED or DISCAHRGED.. I see the wiring dia shows that the balance wire can go to the neg or the pos in the middle of the pack. They show them going to the neg or the pos but the link between them makes the common.

A whole bottle of Vodka? Is that why you posted your happy face?

If you really think of buying the MULTISTARS, the price between the 12mah and the 16mah is like $10. Way more than you want to spend.

No matter which battery type you chose, if you don't use a BMS at least use the battery alarms. I know you will destroy them if you don't learn when to get off and walk.

Dan
 
Damn boy ... !
Someone spike your vodka with PCP?

No. I only had a few beers. I went to get my laundry after that and had a sausage sandwich and a small OJ for breakfast. Population control is not a conspiracy theory. It is a fact.
Another fact is I want nothing to do with LVC. Like I once said there is too much traffic in the city and when you are crossing a busy intersection and the LVC happens It could be curtains , Road kill . Road pizza , another statistic. However some or most of the cells will probably remain intact and maybe the 10 year old son of the Policeman , fireman or city clean up crew can use the salvaged batteries to power his toy train set for Christmas. :lol:

Also If you know where you are going and bring a spare pack with you then you can switch packs for the trip back home if the distance is farther than the capacity of one battery pack. Also as I have stated many times a NEW or fairly new battery regardless of the type may be capable of for example a 7 mile round trip. It can do the same trip many times and hundreds of charging cycles perhaps thousands but the day will come when it can no longer make the trip. In my opinion that is an OLD battery on it's way out. NOT an abused battery.

It is very similar to the old west when they rode horses. You would not want to run a 30 year old horse to chase down a stagecoach and rob it now would you ? When an old properly maintained battery slows down for the first time it is actually talking to you. NOT being abused. Only if you do not stop and switch the pack or walk and just keep going like I did when I killed the 10.0 pack last week does it turn into battery abuse. Once the battery tells you it is old then you can stop and switch packs and put it on light duty which would be three miles instead of 7 miles. I don't need LVC to tell me that it is common sense.

If I stopped the first time I noticed a loss of power then the battery might still be usable. I knew that but was too lazy to walk and I also got a lot of use from the pack. It was a cheap pack anyway. If it were a Multi-star it would still be running with stable cells I bet. I am surprised it ran as long as it did. I bought those in a pair and the mate to it did not last more than a week and puffed up after a simple 5 mile trip to Doug's house and back. It was also ran in series for 10Ah at 44V. I only got into the throttle a couple times, NOT all the way to Doug's house and back.

I always check voltage before I leave the house and when I return with two balancers EXCEPT for last week when I killed the 10.0 pack. I left it hooked up downstairs overnight after I used it to return cans. If I had charged it that would NOT have happened. It was still less than 4 miles I think but the chain being too tight did not help at all.

There are other reasons for wanting the box of 60 LIFEPO4 cells. One is I can build and charge multiple packs so will always have at least two on standby ready to go. Another reason is it is much cheaper to replace one or two bad cells than an entire LiPo pack as I do not have the nerve to rip one of those apart to try and remove a bad cell or two. I would much rather break out the multi-meter and find a bad cell in a LIFEPO4 pack and unscrew the top of the DIY pack and replace the cell/cells in about five minutes with good ones. Please let me know if they have a BMS WITHOUT LVC. I choose to live. NOT have all 10 wheels of a Mack truck or a city bus run over my bleeding carcass. Thanks.

LC out
 
Yes, Lipo can run hundreds of cycles ... but not the way you run them!

Stop bemoaning the destruction of your batteries if you're unwilling to take even the simplest-cheapest protection measures!
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Pcs-18650-9800mAh-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Flashlight-Torch-Toys-Sweet-/232417733495?_trksid=p5731.m3795

If the Ah rating on these is true then they are more than twice the bang for the buck then the Full River cells. About $60 will get me 60 of these which will save me about $60 as the FULL RIVER cells cost well over $100 with the shipping. Please let me know A.S.A.P.

I would like to order very soon. Thanks.


LC out.
 
Pretty sure we've explained about these types of cells, multiple times already.
But, go ahead and buy some, if you can still believe the description.
Tell us about how good they are!
 
latecurtis said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20Pcs-18650-9800mAh-Li-ion-Rechargeable-Battery-for-Flashlight-Torch-Toys-Sweet-/232417733495?_trksid=p5731.m3795

If the Ah rating on these is true then they are more than twice the bang for the buck then the Full River cells. About $60 will get me 60 of these which will save me about $60 as the FULL RIVER cells cost well over $100 with the shipping. Please let me know A.S.A.P.

I would like to order very soon. Thanks.


LC out.

There are no 18650 cells with a real 9800mAh capacity. If there were, and if the were really that inexpensive, everybody would be using them. The The best 18650s are right around 3500mAh.

It seems likely that you've already been told this. But sometimes I enjoy beating my head against the wall. Don't ask me why.

JT out.
 
OK.

Even if they are less than 1/2 what they are rated for and only 3Ah. two rows of 10 is 37 volts and 6 amp hours for $21 free shipping.

The 36 volt pack is only 4.4 Ah and $36 Not sure about shipping. Will have to look.

I will need a charger though and will need to be really cheap. I will put it togeather and test it. $21 bucks is more up my price range nowadays. Thanks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Battery-Charger-1-2V-3-7V-3-2V-3-85V-for-18650-18350-Ni-MH-Li-ion-LiFePO4/253055713180?hash=item3aeb4bbf9c:g:6qoAAOSwdAxZcDkT

It is a $32 investment basically with the charger. Even if the cells are total garbage the charger might be good. It is better than spending over $100 for the FuLL River cells when I owe $300 to the electric company. A BMS ? What the hell is that ? Big Mistake Son. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

http://prntscr.com/h92r00




LC out.
 
Might be best if you just invest in Alkaline
32 D cells in series would give you 48V.
No problems with charging or balancing!
Should last longer than the 10Ah Lipo you destroyed after 1st use!
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/lot-of-32-Rayovac-D-D-Cell-high-energy-Alkaline-Batteries-Fresh-Exp-2026/232468117220?hash=item36202df6e4:g:QxkAAOSwTSVZpMYw
 
I do not see any Ah rating ?

1.5V seems low also. How could an equal # of these compare to the Full River cells or the yellow cells from China. I do not know. I am confused. It is not making much sense. There is no standard anymore :!: :!:

Sellers lie thru their teeth about Ah ratings and everybody has a different opinion of which battery is better. all I know is anything beats Lead ASS batteries. They weigh too much and do not go as far as any other battery.

Why does not someone come up with a rebuild-able battery. The metal plates in a lead acid battery corrode or something after 300 charging cycles so why not replace the inside. Build a battery where you put special gloves on and take out the cathodes and anodes and just put new ones in and fill it back up with acid. At least 22 Ah Lead acid batteries would last forever and then be worth their weight.

The used plates could be stored and when a certain amount of plates accumulated then shipped back to battery manufacturer and put thru a machine to refurbish the plates.

The reason why not is then battery companies would lose $$$$$.
 
latecurtis said:
OK.

Even if they are less than 1/2 what they are rated for and only 3Ah. two rows of 10 is 37 volts and 6 amp hours for $21 free shipping.

The 36 volt pack is only 4.4 Ah and $36 Not sure about shipping. Will have to look.

You haven't factored in the cost of the items to turn the batteries into a pack - never mind the Pollyanna-ish notion that batteries that are intentionally marketed to deceive the buyer and sold for $1 each might actually have the capacity and current delivery capabilities of cells costing 3-5 times as much.

There is no magic to this. There are better and worse deals out there. But there are limits to how good the deals will get. The fact that other people want good deals as well (market forces) tend to make it so.
 
You mean recycle Lead Acid batteries?

batterycouncil.org
Lead acid batteries are closed-loop recycled, meaning each part the the old batteries is recycled into a new battery. It is estimated that 98% of all lead acid batteries are recycled.
How are Batteries Recycled? | Battery Solutions
https://www.batterysolutions.com/recycling-information/how-are-batteries-recycled/
recyclechart.gif


You have the last 2% laying around somewhere?
.
 
https://www.wired.com/story/bill-joy-finds-the-jesus-battery/

The guy looks like a mad scientist. Mad scientists are really cool. It is worth reading but probably wont happen in two years and if it does you will need to rob a bank to afford them.

Maybe I should wait for these to come out on the market.

How long do you think we will be waiting ? When can I place my e bay order. Please let me know.

LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
.... How long do you think we will be waiting ? When can I place my e bay order. Please let me know. LC out.

Damn! Is there no way to avoid seeing this guys's posts?
 
NO """

Why not read it. It is interesting. New technology brought us Lithium batteries when all there were was SLA for years. Why can't newer battery technologies replace lithium ? They can. and eventually they will. You do not have to read it but maybe someone else will like to.


I am thinking that I will need a good point of reference to see how good the cheap 18650 yellow cells China is pushing on e bay and also the larger FULL RIVER cells if I can order a smaller box like 20 cells instead of 60.

The genuine Samsung 36 volt packs would be a good place to start. I will order one this month and next month the yellow 18650 cells and the cheap charger for $32. I will build a 36 volt pack with those and we will see how far they will go.

I like to prove things and if someone says your e bike will not go 28 mph for example then I will buy a speedo. , hook up a camera and test that theory. If the yellow 18650 cells are total garbage then I will be out $20 but could save many other people $$$ as then they wont have to throw their $$$ away ordering them. However if they are equal to or better than the Samsung packs everyone can get a good deal. Either way it it worth doing.

Basically for $20 if they make it to Wall-Mart and back 10 to 15 mph which is a little less than two miles and they can do that 100 trips then to me I got my moneys worth. Anything farther, then I got a deal.

I do not want to destroy them so will bring the multi-meter and test voltage after 1 mile or when I get to Wall-Mart and again when I get home. I will change the pack when it reaches a certain voltage. Are there alarms for LIFEPO4 packs like there is for LiPo packs. I looked on google and e bay and did not see them. Can a LiPo alarm be set to the voltage needed and be wired up to work.

I never used them because I always knew how far my batteries would go until they reached close to the end of their cycle and their capacity was significantly reduced : therefore when a LiPo battery first shows a sign of losing power that is when I will switch the battery, recharge it and hook up the alarm. When I say lose power I do not mean run it until it stops, I mean when I attempt a small hill that I used to go 7 mph up and notice it is only doing 5 mph now then it is time for the alarm on my next run after a recharge.

I noticed that on that 10.0 pack I destroyed weeks before that happened. I ignored it but am now willing to use the LiPo alarms as soon as I notice any loss of power on hills or flat. I was not fond of LiPo alarms as it is a distraction which is a minor saftey hazzard but compared to a BMS which can stop your bike in the middle of a busy intersection the danger of an alarm is insignificant.

The danger of a BMS is equel to entering a busy thruway or roundabout in a car and then running out of gas. BANG! POW! Big accident and pile up. TOTAL KAYOS. Only difference is on the bike you have zero protection and will end up flat as a pancake and dead as a doornail. :oops: LIFEPO4 batteries however that I never ran and battery range at 10 to 15 mph is questionable , alarms should be installed initially before usage. Once they go off normal range can be calculated and will not need the alarms again until well past their half life point when they start to slow down slightly during normal usage. Please let me know. Thanks

.

LC out.
 
Should have ordered the $16.99 36V 2A Li-ion charger.
 
I did not order the batteries yet. I could not find my money card hooked to my pay pal account. I also lost my food stamp card. I have an idea where they might be so am looking tonight. Either way the bank is open Monday so I can get a new card.

I do not remember the post for that. Are you saying that I should use it for the 36 volt Samsung pack and any pack I build from 18650 cells. 18650 cells are 3.7 volt. The larger full river cells are V type because they are 3.2 volts. 3.2 volt cells I can charge with the Skycharger but 18650 cells that are 3.7 volts , those I will need the charger you are refeering to and I will order it if I order the 36 volt pack or the yellow Chinese cells.
I will look for it now. Thank you DA.

LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
I like to prove things and if someone says your e bike will not go 28 mph for example then I will buy a speedo. , hook up a camera and test that theory. If the yellow 18650 cells are total garbage then I will be out $20 but could save many other people $$$ as then they wont have to throw their $$$ away ordering them. However if they are equal to or better than the Samsung packs everyone can get a good deal. Either way it it worth doing.

Sure. But many people have done this already. Proving 10,000 mAh 18650 cells as fake is kind of like proving that water is wet. What's the point?
If money is dear, I suggest saving your experiments for areas where things aren't actually well known and understood. Instead, let other people's experimenting and knowledge save YOU money.

[youtube]hIMMYJ97BjM[/youtube]
 
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-12inch-260-1500W-12000W-260_60689350799.html?spm=a2700.7724838.2017115.194.6a074ac9DIwNvt

Looks like a decent hub motor.

Just picked up a decent 29" Mongoose. Disk front and rear. No idea for a motor though.
The disk brakes look like they will make ant type of wheel sprocket impossible.

A hub motor would need to supporty disk.
sick of everyone critize me 4 brakes and no pedal.
I got a lot of GOOD pedal and AWSOME BRAKES. :!: :!: However motor options are slim.

@6" hub motor Sunder sent needs a new spoke. Good luck on that. I am sure nobody will send the link for it and if they did how in the hell would I fix it as dumb as I am.
 
Youtube search "hub motor spoke replacement".
Don't be so helpless!
 
Take a good spoke from the wheel and take it to a bike shop. most have a spoke threaded and can make you one. It will be thinner than the one on the hub but will still work. You can have Doug do the reinstall.

the QS motor would be exactly what you need to do your 40+mph. Problem is where will you get it laced into a wheel? I think they do offer in wheel options but not on that page. You need to go to the QS site and search or search ES for QS motors. They are real popular with the FAST guys. One other concern is, they are wider then the normal 135mm width on most bikes.

Stop complaining about my pedaling and brakes?
I guess you have no idea why we are concerned.

If you put a hub motor on the 29" Goose be sure to use torque arms. Newer Mongoose are Alloy and much weaker than the older ones, lighter but weaker.

Dan
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Two 40 mph electric bicycles on the agenda. :twisted:


https://www.ebay.com/i/322800319943?chn=ps&dispctrl=1

it does not need to be fast right now. it just needs to work. Also I want this one light. My first belt drive. I can order a cheap brushless motor from Hobby King or Alien power. Dan sent me two brushless controllers sitting in a drawer. 15 to 20 mph is fine as I will pedal assist with this bike.

Even though a larger bike like this with disk brakes front and rear I do not feel in control sitting high up on a bicycle where my feet cannot touch the ground. However it is comfortable and I do not get cramps in my hip like when riding 20" bikes. The build will be a lightweight pedal assist belt drive approx 500 watts.

Since I am very low on cash at this time I may want to remove the 500 watt brush 24 volt motor and controller from the dual motor build and install a rear rack on the bike and mount the Unite motor on it for now. Later on when I get money I can replace with a brush less motor and use one of those brush-less controllers.

This way all I will need to do is order the part at the top of this post and a pulley to replace the motor sprocket and a belt. I will be able to afford it this month or next month and can power it with the Genuine Samsung LIFEPO4 battery pack for $36 and just use one of my 36 volt controllers. It can be geared for about 25 mph @ 36 volts and one horsepower (750 watts) as I will be able to pedal assist aggressively up hills with this bike as the gears work perfectly and I will be high enough so I will not have to bend my legs much. Please let me know if you guys are willing to help me with this. Thank you all.

LC out.

PS. You will NOT see many more builds from now on with shitty brakes and no pedal chain or gears. I am sick of that and have aquired top quality bikes and parts for my future builds.

Also I just noticed a problem with the part at the top. It is for a 26" wheel NOT a 29" wheel. I could build the Haro V3 however. In fact the Haro V3 has disk brakes in the front. The rack is off the Currie and is extra heavy due to to support two SLA battery racks which slide down into it stock from the factory. I do not plan on running SLAS though. Probably a 54 volt LIFEPO4 pack. Also It is lower to the ground so I can plant both feet but still not too low and still comfortable. It is perfect for any of my Unite motors until I can afford the 1,800 watt brush less motor and a 54 volt custom built LIFEPO4 battery for 40 mph. :twisted:

Also winter is on the way. I need a GOOD RELIABLE cargo bike. waterproof and winter ready. I have a 24" mongoose also and will now be taking the 800 watt 20" hub motor off the front of the Dimondback 20" BMX bike and installing it on the BACK of the 24" mongoose. I will be putting BMX style handlebars on the front for a front basket. - NO front motor.

It will have a large rear basket and a small front basket for even weight distribution. I need to order NOTHING. I have all the parts. Removing the rear hub motor should not be difficult like a front as no torque arms will be needed. Therefore I will be able to run the custom built studded tires DA invented if I want to. That will be an option.

The 24" cargo bike and the 20" dual motor bike will both be stripped down to the frames and the frames are going for scrap metal. Like I said I am sick of no pedal gears and brakes. I will be using the 48V 1,000 watt unite motor as well as the 36V 800 watt unite motor for a 40+ mph dual motor build with 20" wheels on a heavy duty 26" Huffy dual suspension frame. I will be ordering two freewheel clutches and two 8mm sprockets as well as two 10 tooth 8mm motor sprockets. The pedal crank will be removed and pegs will go on either the front or rear wheels. Doug will help me to install brakes for front and rear. It will be without pedal gears though but is ok as the cop will have to catch me. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Thanks.

LC out.

PS again. The two bottom pics show how the motors will be both geared for 37 mph on the new 2 kilowatt dual motor build. Since the 36V 2,750 rpm motor will be running 3,666 rpms at 48 volts it will need the 72 tooth sprocket and the 48 volt 3,000 rpm motor will run the 54 tooth. both motor sprockets will be 11 tooth for 8 mm chain. It should reach 40 mph when I build a custom 54 volt LIFEPO4 pack. :twisted:
 

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I will NOT be ordering any new motors as I will need new batteries. The plan now is to use the parts I have from the bikes I do not ride and build two bikes with the parts from the 20" DimondBack , the 24" cargo bike and the 20" dual motor bike. If there is a way to hook up the 24 volt 500 watt Unite motor from the 20" cargo bike to the 29" bike without compromising the gears or brakes that would be ideal. Then it would be three bikes built from three bikes.

I really like the 29" ride. with both brakes disk but the belt drive unit fits a 26" wheel so it looks like I am not going to be able to build it unless you know of an idea. I am not compromising the gearing or the brakes. Max speed will be 25 mph @ 36 volts if I get that 36V LIFEPO4 battery, so the seat can be high for pedal assist.

There were a few issues with the motor installation. I needed four washers as the tire was almost hitting the wheel but I could only come up with two so had to drill two out to make them larger. Also I had problems with the BMX handlebars. I don't have skills to take the goose neck apart so and the handlebars on there were a 2 bolt deal and the BMX was four bolt and the BMX handelbars were too small. I had to wrap electrical tape around it so I could tighten down the two bolts. I am glad I do not need a front motor.

If you look you will see the green tape and also the bottom of the basket is up against the goose neck so it is very strong and can handle about 25 pounds. This is important as the rear motor weighs about 20 pounds and with I need weight up front for even weight distribution. The controller can go up front in a waterproof Tupperware container with the cash box and the old LiPo packs. This will be 48 volts and 800 watts so I felt it was a good idea to install the torque arms I took off the Schwinn as I wont be running that until I get the spoke fixed.

Do you have any ideas on the belt drive system for the 29" bike. Please let me know. It is either that or the Haro V3 for a belt drive. Also I will need a pulley for a belt which will fit on a Unite dual D bore motor shaft. A link for that would be helpful. Thanks.


LC out.
 

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