Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

nio88 said:
my problem is, my battery pack is a welded pack :(, it´s not easy remove that group and charge it, and not sure how I can insolate that group and charge it without disassesemble part of the battery...

If some cells are wrong in that group it´s going to be a pain in the ass :?

I had a similar problem, but found out that if you connect via (or at the attachment points for) the balance leads, you can test and charge each group in isolation. Be sure to respect the polarity when charging.
 
What Buk___ said is exactly right. You can charge or discharge a "P" row and cycle to find out what's going on. You have to pull the connections to find out which cell is bad in the "P" row though.

Good luck.

Tom
 
Ok, I´m going to try it :)
just to confirm, so basically connecting a rc charger to 1s, on negative (13) positive (14) (that should be the correct polarity, isn´t it?) until that group is at same level, is that correct?

Thank you so much for the tips guys...
 

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be honest dude....who build this battery :D

ask the dude to help you charging this "P".

if this was really your work, get your multimeter and measure the voltage.
0,1v difference are "visible" on your multimeter :p

if you found the 0,1 difference you have the right "-" and "+" where you connect your RC charger.
if you charging: disconnect all other wires. from the Battery. ALL(!)

just plug in the two tiny bms wires and charge with very low current.

but i think theres something wrong. a bad cell or a bad(not) contact on one cell.
because if you only have 1-2 discharges and it differs so much its simple less capacity on this "P"
 
Merlin said:
be honest dude....who build this battery :D

ask the dude to help you charging this "P".

if this was really your work, get your multimeter and measure the voltage.
0,1v difference are "visible" on your multimeter :p

if you found the 0,1 difference you have the right "-" and "+" where you connect your RC charger.
if you charging: disconnect all other wires. from the Battery. ALL(!)

just plug in the two tiny bms wires and charge with very low current.

but i think theres something wrong. a bad cell or a bad(not) contact on one cell.
because if you only have 1-2 discharges and it differs so much its simple less capacity on this "P"

haha Merlin, just i know it was a noob question, I already leveled that group thanks for your first explanation through the balance cable, and of course for the second one :p, but I only wanted to confirm the theory hahah, a double check is always welcome :), and yes, the multimeter did the trick :)

Now we will see how fast the group goes down (I hope they don´t), and if they go down very fast, I will check all the connections in that group.

Thanks again Merlin.
 
Adaptto E-Drives Lab said:
Dear Friends,

We've received many questions recently regarding the external on/off button (or a key switch) implementation for our controller.
Firstly, for those ordering the controllers now - we can include this option upon request.
Secondly, if you already got the controller - you could always send it to us and we will install the cable for button integration at reasonable price (no more than 20 USD). Return shipping is always on us.

Thirdly, if you got the controller and are not ready to wait for the shipping period we have worked out the following simple guide on how to do it yourself.

PLEASE NOTE: use the guide ONLY if you've got enough experience in soldering because opening up the controller automatically stops the warranty coverage. Thus Adaptto E-Drive Lab Ltd. will not be liable for any problems caused by your actions starting from the controller opening.

Let's start:

1) To open up the controller - GENTLY undo the following screws
lPwgxhy.jpg



2) Withdraw the inner part of the controller and unscrew these studs thus releasing the processor board:
Vpyvljy.jpg



3) On processor board you need to concentrate on the line shown:
9koUEeG.jpg


4) ACCURATELY cut the line in the middle (with the knife for example)
3WiodmE.jpg

Result:
a7hweH5.jpg


5) Clear the rest of the line up until the copper:
62BO5MN.jpg


6) Tin-plate:
60O8Gzh.jpg


7) Solder the wire for the button (DON'T forget to apply the thermal setting) :
zVGr19q.jpg


8 ) That's it. Now just drill out the new bore for the cable soldered. Here is the perfect place for it:
n0OhLLZ.jpg



Hope this helps,
All the best!

Thanks! This is what I'll be doing this weekend.
 
Finally cracked open my screen over the weekend to fix the USB cable and update the firmware to unlocked.
Glad to say I succeeded in both, and am now enjoying 6.5KW in Boost mode with 90A @72V.
DSC_4223.jpg


I will be switching to a 14S, ~54V 18650 pack in the new year and might up the amps to 100 when I do in order to keep things in the 5.4KW range, but don't want to go too high as it was at around 120A (7.8KW) I blew my last Mini-E from memory.

Cheers
 
Hi there

I received Cowardlyducks' blown mini (very enthusiastic level of meltdown, congrats !) for parts, and begin a reparation session of all the blown minis that I have myself.

Concerning one of them I don't understand how to repair.

It won't switch the screen on, seems like there's no 12v. Does anybody know where the 12v circuit is and what the buck converter looks like ?

Thanks in advance !
 
nio88 said:
Ok, I´m going to try it :)
just to confirm, so basically connecting a rc charger to 1s, on negative (13) positive (14) (that should be the correct polarity, isn´t it?) until that group is at same level, is that correct?

Thank you so much for the tips guys...

a cell group that seems to drop out is not always a due to a bad cell, when using adaptto bms.

i have had similar problems, and naturally thought the worst, but after changing the max cell charge V/balance regime, it sorted itself out(surprisingly)

after a discharge, try to set max cell V to 3.89 volts and ballance to 3.88v. for example, and slow charge at 3 Amps or something.
somehow, it seems the high cells can get "out of range" of the balancing function. maybe its just a adaptto glitch, wouldnt surprise me.

the lg pack i had issue with was showing similar behaviour to yours, but when i changed the settings it stayed ballanced for ~1year afterwards from memory.

another thing it might be worth checking the real group voltages with a good meter and calibrating the bms voltages accordingly.
 
Ladies and gentlemen, UP !

Would anybody know how the 12v circuit in the controller, feeding the screen, looks like ?
 
csc said:
Ladies and gentlemen, UP !

Would anybody know how the 12v circuit in the controller, feeding the screen, looks like ?

5V not 12V.... the 5V is the red wire going to the screen.
 
Thanks Willow

Any explanation for the circuit not working ? Is there a specific resistor -or a buck converter or whatever - to check ?

I found this in the previous pages (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=943926&hilit=halls+r113#p948501) :

file.php

file.php

file.php


If somebody can complete...
 
Merlin said:
if you want to thank "us"....come back IF things come worse + if things goes well.
the best thank you is always report back whatever happend...this helps other guys if they in a same situation.

I can confirm I´ve an issue in a cell on that group (it is always 0.15v below the rest) , so at some moment I would have to disassembly that group and change that cell :?
 
Repairing a bad cell in a glue pack is worse than sticking your hand in a garabage disposal. Sucks big time. I've done it a few times and it never gets easier. My next pack I will only glue the p's together and the whole thing will be held together with tape and shrink wrap just in case!

Tom
 
the problem is where the wrong cell is... if it´s in the top is a pain in the ass, since you have to remove all group, and then it´s better change all the cells in that group, since when you remove the strips, at least for my experience (this was my first pack), it´s not a flat surface, and the next time you try to weld those cells if you don´t get a good flat contact, you´ll get nice hole around the strip hahaha.

I will do it someday, when I see it´s going worst, for now I´m leveling that group manually, before charging the full pack.
 
The biggest problem comes after the cells are replaced. If you are replacing a cell thats been used 100 times with one thats brand new, they are going to behave differently (charge and discharge), and you will struggle to (if ever) be able to balance the pack. Ideally the cells would be replaced with exactly the same type, with the same number of cycles.
 
csc said:
Thanks Willow

Any explanation for the circuit not working ? Is there a specific resistor -or a buck converter or whatever - to check ?

I found this in the previous pages (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&p=943926&hilit=halls+r113#p948501) :

file.php

file.php

file.php


If somebody can complete...

Glad I found this, seems that I have the same problem as you, 12v to display not working. + accidentaly scraped off R32. Anyone knows value?

Have you solved that problem or found some info how to do it atleast? I have asked adaptto but its really hard to communicate with them, after few dumb answers they just cut the communication. :?
 

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Has anyone successfully repaired an Adaptto display?

I have one that's waterdamaged (down and right key not working) and after reading others experience with sending the display to Russia for repair I want to avoid that if possible ;)
 
bowers said:
Has anyone successfully repaired an Adaptto display?

I have one that's waterdamaged (down and right key not working) and after reading others experience with sending the display to Russia for repair I want to avoid that if possible ;)

I have removed the usb from display and replaced with cable to external buttons.

Just look at some videos about soldering to those small pads..

You can use something like this as buttons
http://s.aliexpress.com/nuAJnqAB?fromSns=Copy
 
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