Vector Light Commuter Build

skeetab5780 said:
Few photos from yesterdays ride, i had hopes of trying to kill the battery but only managed 16 miles of the freezing cold weather.
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I can't see those pictures. Anyone else having trouble?
 
So I took the entire bike apart after my 23 mile ride. I wanted to change the bike height so bad

I raised the front shock mount two more spots so it is almost all the way maxed out, there is only one more hole which is for 240mm shocks id imagine.

It looks much better now but it is slightly too low now since I still have the 200mm shock in place. I did order a new 220mm shock that is much better so it will soon be the way it is supposed to be!

Then maybe I can get a better feel of how the frame really handles.

Bad picture but you can see how much lower the swingarm is to the ground now
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After a 23 miles ride the battery just randomly shut off on me while I was 3 miles away from home...this bike completely sucked to pedal with this akward pogo shock and no power at all!

Right then an there I decided to buy a DNM burner 3 shock like the Kuberg has on it, much nicer

I imagines the battery would take more AH that this but it went 23 miles on about 16ah in...it is a 21ah pack so im not sure whats going on there we will have to cycle it a few times, I did only charge to 61.5 which is not fully topped off
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Here is the second day of my weekend ride! This is before I adjusted the shock mount and bought a new shock and controller...

stay tuned for more updates! Darn thing died on me I may have a dud cell somewhere not sure

[youtube]VMACLkWvpf4[/youtube]
 
Got the shock in the mail! Don't know why I always cheap out and get a pogo and upgrade later. Luckily got this as a new takeoff for only $100
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Slapped it on real quick, left it in the center spot on the swingarm not sure if I will keep it there or not
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Can already notice a difference but the front wheel is slightly raised in this picture
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The geometry looks better now.
I always adjust the geometry so the bike is stable when riding hands-free. The fork angle or rather the trail of the front wheel is important for that.
 
So I liked the speed of the 15s battery pack but I didn't like how the controller didn't have regen and the throttle was awful and I couldn't fit the key switch into the bike. I ended up getting a used 6fet mini em3ev controller (thanks forum member Mudflap5) with regen and cruise and I was able to fit it into the frame. I am using a 10s 13.2ah pack so I will have to test the range and compare it with the other setup that managed 22miles and was fairly heavy. Also the controller is in the frame and not hanging down below in the weather.

This controller also has a three speed switch but I just hard wired it to be in 100% mode, for now the regen turns on when the throttle is release im not sure if im going to like this for coasting, but im going to try it out for a few rides to see if its beneficial to the range.

Temp wiring process, at first I wired the throttle wrong, this is the first 3spd switch cruise controller ive ever had
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Put a small piece of foam behind the controller so it doesn't bang against the bolts from the seat stay and shock mount
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Zip tied the controller to two of the four mounting holes in the frame(not sure if that's why they are there or not)
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Was able to cram it all in the frame with a small 10s 13.2ah 18650 battery, and now fit the key switch
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Flipped it back over to finish screwing the housing cover down
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Key switch! Supposedly this controller has zero load when low voltage wiring is switched off so im going to try it and just leave the primary wires hooked together. I will monitor this for a few days to see if it drains
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Adjusted the shock rebound and I am so much happier with the bike now!
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Random pic
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also went back to my trusty old half twist chopped down, after only 20 miles on those vertical thumb throttles and I never wanted to see it again...talk about hand cramps
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Looks good, although I'm a bit paranoid that foam is going to melt if your controller ever heats up.
 
Ya I thought about it, but there is plenty of air in the space and its only a 20a controller. I usually always have them exposed somehow. I am going to give it a try for now since it looks nice and neat.
 
Well I just dropped my truck off for a oil change and rode the Vector light back to my work. One thing I did notice is now that my swingarm is in the correct position the inside back of my feet hit the lowers of the swingarm tubing while pedaling now if I am not careful. It wasn't as bad when the shock was in the wrong place. It only took a second to adjust to it and I can still say that pedaling is pretty comfortable. Its not crazy bow legged at all like on large ebike frames. The frame fits me really good now and my stem and seat might actually be slightly too far apart now!

The 10s battery setup and controller work great together and my top speed is pretty much 20mph now. The regen kicking on when you let off the throttle is bad at times until you get used to it. I actually kind of like it! You can be really aggressive with the throttle and just let off on corners and it slows down for you. You almost don't even need to hit the real brakes and you can make a game out of this for fun while riding!

The speed may get boring to me, but this is a commuter bike to basically get out and enjoy the day on and listen to tunes, so I may go higher voltage but for now it is ok, also this let me pedal effectively now since my pedals max out at 20mph

I did have the chain fall off the front chain ring and this is a big problem. It has happened consistently on every ride over bad bumps or curb hops. I thought my chain was tight enough so I think I need a chain tensioner or a front derailer.
 
this 20mph with auto regen is perfect for the freezing cold weather we are having right now, but again I just hopped onto the bike to take a trip to the store and the first thing I noticed was the inside of my feet rears hitting the lower portion of the swingarm when I pedal... It is starting to bother me a little bit. You have to expect it and change your stance a bit which prevents me from wanting to pedal at all...like I need another reason to sit on my ass.

I will need to get a full ride in with the new bike stance to see how I really feel
 
i ended up using a slightly longer bottom bracket to bring the crank arms out a little bit more... otherwise my original crank arms were hitting the swingarm, but i think it depends on your crank arms, some come out a bit farther than others. I just had a few bottom brackets laying around so i used that, but afterwards i found a couple crank arm sets that look like they have more of a curve on them
 
Ya Dave I think I will have to put either more bowed out crank arms or a wider BB on the bike to make it not happen. Its just a shame because the front of the frame is nice and skinny and doesn't effect pedaling at all, but the rear tubing I think is somehow wider than it needs to be for 135mm hub frame.

I can see why though...every build now is all about the most power possible 10kw!!!! 15kw!!! Big moto tires!!!

I have a different bike for that :)
 
I've enjoyed this build thread Skeetab.

Wondering where you are on the project? I'm rather new to all things electric and not experienced in bike repair, though always mechanically successfully at whatever I have jumped into. Pretty set on building my own E-Bike as market's limited and I really want to get my head around electrics.

I've learned a lot about electrics and bicycles over the past 5 days by reading ES for a 2-3 hours a day. Plan to disassemble and reassemble my trusty old Voo Doo Scandium 29er just to get a feel for the bike end of the project (toughest part as I perceive it now). I've also got a world-class bike shop nearby if I really had to fall back to some aid on that front.

Thinking to buy a really well made, close to top end battery from someone else (looks like welding - spot? - the backs is the way to go).

The Vector Lite/Storm seems to be the base I'm looking for, but I'm wondering about sizing. I'm 66" tall with rather minimalist sole shoes (everyday wear for me), 67 1/2" wingspan, 29 1/2" inseam. I see the frame settled down for you with the installation of the superior rear shock, but am still wondering if the frame will be well sized for me with a maximum suspension lowering setup? What do you think?

My aim is a high power burst potential bike that is still setup for 50-60 mile minimum top range (with peddling), a genuine motive power contributing peddle setup at cruising speeds, low-keyness, brake regen, and as light weight and nimble as possible to handle regular steep single trail downhills. I figure my weighing 145-150 lbs, even 140ish in summer, will help on all fronts.
 
RemoteRoad said:
Oh and by the way, I freakin love the gold and black color combo!

Thank you! I used to make fun of it and call it ugly, but it is slowly growing on me! I just wish it wasn't negative 5deg outside so I could ride it :)
 
RemoteRoad said:
I've enjoyed this build thread Skeetab.

Wondering where you are on the project? I'm rather new to all things electric and not experienced in bike repair, though always mechanically successfully at whatever I have jumped into. Pretty set on building my own E-Bike as market's limited and I really want to get my head around electrics.

I've learned a lot about electrics and bicycles over the past 5 days by reading ES for a 2-3 hours a day. Plan to disassemble and reassemble my trusty old Voo Doo Scandium 29er just to get a feel for the bike end of the project (toughest part as I perceive it now). I've also got a world-class bike shop nearby if I really had to fall back to some aid on that front.

Thinking to buy a really well made, close to top end battery from someone else (looks like welding - spot? - the backs is the way to go).

The Vector Lite/Storm seems to be the base I'm looking for, but I'm wondering about sizing. I'm 66" tall with rather minimalist sole shoes (everyday wear for me), 67 1/2" wingspan, 29 1/2" inseam. I see the frame settled down for you with the installation of the superior rear shock, but am still wondering if the frame will be well sized for me with a maximum suspension lowering setup? What do you think?

My aim is a high power burst potential bike that is still setup for 50-60 mile minimum top range (with peddling), a genuine motive power contributing peddle setup at cruising speeds, low-keyness, brake regen, and as light weight and nimble as possible to handle regular steep single trail downhills. I figure my weighing 145-150 lbs, even 140ish in summer, will help on all fronts.

What do you think of my frame-sizing build proposal query?
 
RemoteRoad said:
RemoteRoad said:
I've enjoyed this build thread Skeetab.

Wondering where you are on the project? I'm rather new to all things electric and not experienced in bike repair, though always mechanically successfully at whatever I have jumped into. Pretty set on building my own E-Bike as market's limited and I really want to get my head around electrics.

I've learned a lot about electrics and bicycles over the past 5 days by reading ES for a 2-3 hours a day. Plan to disassemble and reassemble my trusty old Voo Doo Scandium 29er just to get a feel for the bike end of the project (toughest part as I perceive it now). I've also got a world-class bike shop nearby if I really had to fall back to some aid on that front.

Thinking to buy a really well made, close to top end battery from someone else (looks like welding - spot? - the backs is the way to go).

The Vector Lite/Storm seems to be the base I'm looking for, but I'm wondering about sizing. I'm 66" tall with rather minimalist sole shoes (everyday wear for me), 67 1/2" wingspan, 29 1/2" inseam. I see the frame settled down for you with the installation of the superior rear shock, but am still wondering if the frame will be well sized for me with a maximum suspension lowering setup? What do you think?

My aim is a high power burst potential bike that is still setup for 50-60 mile minimum top range (with peddling), a genuine motive power contributing peddle setup at cruising speeds, low-keyness, brake regen, and as light weight and nimble as possible to handle regular steep single trail downhills. I figure my weighing 145-150 lbs, even 140ish in summer, will help on all fronts.

What do you think of my frame-sizing build proposal query?

I'm 72" and 150 pounds and it fits me fine. It's a bit heavy one you add the battery (14s8p) and big heavy hub, but I have done a little bit of off riding and it seems to handle fine. I easily get your 50-60 mile range, but I do a lot of pedaling and often restrict my motor to 150-250w and 25kmh with my CA3.
 
Cool thanks.

You feel like the rear swing arm is properly setup for higher power motors? Just looks a little on the weak side, almost as if it slightly mismatches the other section of the frame.
 
Sorry remote I didn't see the post above the one about the color...

Yeah I think this frame will fit you, you are shorter than us but you can adjust everything by what suspension you use. If you got a shorter travel front fork or rear shock you can play around with the adjustment bracket to get it right.

I just guessed on my bracket at first and was way off by like two holes, so it made the bike all funky and tall, I rode it like that for one long weekend while waiting for the new shock, which I highly recommend for the $$

the bike is heavier than expected being called the "light" and that is one of the reasons I went with the lighter slower battery for now in the winter, I will likely increase the voltage in the spring tho for more fun and so I want to get out and use it more

also artur says this thing can handle 8kw with the regular old 135mm dropouts with no plates. I will not be getting close to anything like that especially at 135mm wide swing but there you go...
 
Just saw this topic here. Thank you for all info you posted here. Just wanted to tell that paint job is now passing QC. And headset switched to catrige style/better option. Also we making fatbike singarm for 180mm dropouts (164mm with dropoutplates inside) and 100mm BB. About rear shock, with our rear shock it will fit srom start (different size of bushings play role here as you mentioned).
 
Hi, I really love following your build progress. You're a model for the rest of us Vector Light builders! I'm trying to figure out what derailleur cage length to buy. I'm running a 36T up front and I'm planning a 7 speed 11-32 freewheel in the rear. Was thinking about running a SRAM-x4 but I'm not sure if that will work.

Can you share your drivetrain specs?
 
DriftTrike said:
Hi, I really love following your build progress. You're a model for the rest of us Vector Light builders! I'm trying to figure out what derailleur cage length to buy. I'm running a 36T up front and I'm planning a 7 speed 11-32 freewheel in the rear. Was thinking about running a SRAM-x4 but I'm not sure if that will work.

Can you share your drivetrain specs?

appreciate the kind words! are you sure 36t up front is enough? What voltage are you running? 36t>>11t will only let you pedal until about 16-17mph in your smallest gear

as of right now I have a 42t front 11t rear and get about 21mph until its too fast of a cadence, since I want to up the voltage to 48v in spring I will likely try to fit a larger front sprocket also

Im using a cheap take-off Shimano Acera derailur I think its off the Tidalforce s-750 but not 100% sure
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