new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Progrock

On a second look. To me it looks like the angle bends are over bent to me if that’s a term. Or the extra length the bends take up was not calculated correctly. It must work if it’s sold with the kit you would think. Might need some strategic hammer blows or vise work to correct the angles.
 
Skaiwerd, it's pretty close to dead on width (my BB is 73mm)... but probably a 2-3mm tight.. not enough to fully coprrect things.. but still a little bit in the right direction. What I was thinking... I asked above about the washers/spacers Luna provides with the kit (and actually luna's kit apparently comes bent for 100mm BB, so you have to adjust the bend anyway... BUT, they either had 1 or possibly even 2 extra spacers on the inside of the mount... which would effectively widen the width of the BB that the two mounts would need to fit around. That would also help get the bent side closer to inline. I still think there's a tiny ways to go more, but with those 2 tweaks... would def be moving in the right direction, and much closer to true.

Sadly, not having the best of luck finding a decent price on washers/spacers that are the right size... I believe it's 35mm ID... as far as metal washers/spacers that size, I've been seeing single 1mm wide ones for like $7. I'm sure there's somewhere with them cheap, just haven't found it yet, and def don't wanna wait more than 3-4 days to get them. Too bad Luna doesn't sell them, in their install video, they have a whole bin of them.

While my mount is pretty close to identical, I think the bend it came with was slgihtly different (def much closer to 68mm than 100mm) and unlike Luna's, my drive side mount does NOT have a tapered whole, instead the kit came with 1 countersunk bolt, 1 buttonhead (instead of a second countersunk).... and of course, no spacers. Everything else appears to be identical... what somewhat surprised me was what came with the mount directly from cyclone, I was expecting the 2 main pieces, a couple of bolts, maybe a couple of spacers and washers... it came with all that, BUT it also came with a different size (longer) piece of the bottom bracket shell, with a bearing, and the entire chain tensioner arm, plus a metal cable tie (this was semi confusing, since I thought one of the major benifits of the new bracket is that you no longer need this danky looking thing) and a couple of pretty serious zip ties. All in all, pretty sweet... the shipping cost somewhat negates the good deal, but I still can't get over the speed it got here, and how good their communication was.

BTW, forgot to post the video I've been referring to: https://youtu.be/G99tNdeZa0g

I think I finally found some washers/spacers similar to what Luna was using... I hope. I had measured the outside of the BB to be about 35mm, which is what I had been searching for.... then realized it might be considered 1 3/8"... so was searching for 1 3/8" washers.... which was getting me closer, but still overpriced, AND generally WAYY too big OD. After a bit, finally tried 1-3/8 in spacer... and finally landed here: http://a.co/8WcmRz3 .... putting in 1 3/8" for the ID, and a ton of items showed up, starting with an OD of 1 7/8"... which I'm thinking is exactly what I want, and instead of 1 being $6-7, can get 10 for $14-15 it looks like. Not an amazing price, but it'll work, especially with the one-day/same-day shipping. Now I just need to figure out what thickness I wanna go with... normally I'd order a couple of different in this situation, but can't say I wanna spend more than $20 on these, so gonna have to make a good choice.... and I suppose I can always double them up if needed. Tho I def need to remeasure, and really hope this is the correct size.
 
:!: Yup I took it off, and yup I am too lazy to take off the brackets and install bottom bracket and crankset. Just redid the battery pack, from 6Ah 72V to 12Ah 60V. Hopefully can obtain decent mileage :!:

Never did hook up both motor controllers to a single throttle. Would have been interesting. Main concern now is selling the C4K locally and fixing all the geared and dd motors I currently have. That is the mxus 3k, battery is hidden on the cabinet side. 60V hksuniwn cont, crystalyte 26" dh rim, and yes a 7 speed freewheel.
 
It has been a while since I posted in here.
Here is my new cyclone build. Just completed trial runs, just need to re-fab top motor mount and replace wood block with an aluminum box to tuck the wires into.
Then, it's on to bike upgrades like a fork that does not suck.

90av7n.jpg
 
24s would be fine on this motor. I was running 30s before and really liked the high speed in lower gears even tho it was less efficient. Now I'm running 20s and there is a little more efficiency but I have to really use the gears.
 
Flat tire, thank you for chiming in!... and with great news at that. I assumed the efficiency would go down a bit... but was hoping the 24s would give a little more power. I'm also using a single speed mount bike (at least to start, hoping I won't find it necessary to add gears, but if so, might try to go with a IGH).

I think I'm still gonna give the 20s a try to start.... but hearing this will motivate me to bump it up to 24s after a month or two. This way I'll have a chance to compare the two, and see which I like more.

BTW, guess what sickbikeparts apparently added to their stock... they are calling it the "3000W HD Mount"....pretty funny timing, I suppose it was very stupid of me not to ask them about the mount before ordering one (I wouldn't be surprised if they had them on hand already when I had ordered). BUT... I didn't miss out on anything... they are selling them at a reasonable price (and nice that they offer it separate unlike luna), it's $45.. BUT, for 68-100mm BB's you gotta buy the $15 "HD Mount Adapter". Cyclone in Taiwan sent me both the moutn and adapter when I ordered the mount, and took less than a week to get to me, cost just under $69 total. So SBP's prettty much has the same deal as they did (cheaper if you're using a fat bike with 100mm+ BB). I think it's great they now have it, now I can recommend them, without having to explain that Liuna has a better mount (given Luna includes it in the kit, but SBP allows you to get upgrades, and includes other parts with theirs... so it still works out close to even).

I'll be honest, I don't think the Cyclone is going to stay on this bike for very long. I have been drooling over these RC mid drives... tho wish I could find a solid kit that's not $2k. Also wish I was better at machining, though now that techshop has shutdown, I don't have access to machining tools anyway... just an angle grinder and drill, plus some useful attachments/mounts. I need to look into places that'll do custom machining, where I can hand them a 3d file (or more likely the output of one that a CNC can use). I'm assuming most places that do this charge an arm and a leg... anyone know any good sites that aren't too expensive? If I can come up with a simple 2 stage reduction and a mount... could be possible to make my own custom RC build, without forking over as much money. I'm also getting ready to build my first custom controller, using lebowski's controller PIC.... pretty sure it's FOC capabilities plus a good power distribution board could produce a seriously nice controller for this kind of an RC build... might even be able to get in th 6K watts+ range... a 24s4p pack of these Sanyo 20700A's would be a complete beast. Anyway, some form of RC setup on this frame would produce pretty close to my ideal build (low weight was always one of my top priorities, while still having plenty of power). But, I won't be saying goodbye to this cyclone, that's for sure, I'll just have to find another bike to move it to.
 
See how I have both the original cyclone mount, and the new one (or as SBP is calling it, the "HD mount")... and while the HD mount is def better than the original, I don't think either will totally get the job done alone (not that they won't work, just there's plenty of room for improvement). I ended up using 2 x 1.65mm thick washers on the inside of the non drive side of the bottom bracket to help make the bracket fit. I'm considering trying to use the original left/non-drive side (3mm thick) with the left side of the new mount... OR, possibly even better, use the original's drive side on the left, on top of the new mount's left. Sadly the original mount is setup with a little different dimensions/angles (would have be soo easy if not), but it's larger, not smaller, than needed... I might be able to drill new holes that line up... which would require grinding away the excess (including the old holes). I don't know how much of an improvement this would make, the original has those danky offsets instead of mounting to the motor (though that is what makes this possible). But without knowing any technical details, I could only imagine it would still be an improvement, and wouldn't require too much effort (and I have everything I need already here). Wish I still had access to a machine shop to be able to correctly/cleanly modify the original bracket, but I have a Bosch angle grinder and a bunch of metal grinding wheels for it, I'm pretty sure I can manage a mod like this.

I just used it mounted onto one of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BUSL7A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This mount is amazing if you got a grinder, but not the space fore a miter saw, etc... it kinda turns it into a mini miter, with the right blade, and it's pretty damn nice/solid, crazy for $20 shipped)... to cut a few pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" solid copper stock... hoping to use them sandwiched between 2 of my battery packs, to help make a clean high current connection between the packs (then planning to use some thinner, probably 16oz copper plate to beef up the connections between parallel groups within each pack. Also made use of the grinder with a 120 grit flap disc for the first step to put a near mirror finish on the 1/4" x 1/2" copper (started with the grinder with that, then went from 150 -> 240 -> 400 -> 800 -> 1200 -> 2000 -> 3000 grit sand paper stages by hand... TBH, since the rest was done by hand, probably could have just done all of it, BUT with a few seconds and the flap disc, the copper was already in a condition that probably was plenty good to begin with). Considering I'm in a studio apartment, and almost everyone I know (at least everyone with a house or workshop... my family and most of my friends) are on the opposite coast as me now, I have no one with tools I can use... this angle grinder is a hell of a useful tool to have around, I def recommend people in my kind of situation to get one. Of course I would practically kill to have a garage with some serious tools, every since techshop shut down I've been totally stuck with what I have... though I suppose I'm not doing half bad for a studio apartment (got 2 tool benches, 2 large tool boxes, plus a ton of other tool bins and portable boxes, as well as an armoire that's jsut a bunch of those 48 drawer parts organizers)... at least it'la large studio apartment.

Hoping to have everything on the bike by tomorrow, and if all goes well, be riding it. Just got a few more things to do... and some regular maintenance... totally need to bleed the brakes, and replacing the pads while I'm at it. Can't wait to be riding this thing.
 
Post
by Apex » Tue Nov 28, 2017 12:36 pm
markz wrote: ↑
Mon Nov 27, 2017 4:23 pm
That stupid plastic thing on the crank broke on mine, winter riding, ice, snow, broke.
Sick bike parts has them for $4
http://sickbikeparts.com/shift-kit-and- ... -products/

Stop wasting your time with those plastic guards they are weak junk and meant to break ! one chain derailment or hitting a bump and those support plastic screw tangs break off !

Might as well change it once and do it properly to the AFT hduty bashguard, as a side benefit not only is it a chainguard since its 4mm thick it acts as log bashguard lol and chain guide.... standard plastic ones just bend when chain tries to derail vs the 4mm Aluminium one forcing chain to stay on. Nice piece of kit ....


Found it here : Heavy-Duty Chainwheel Bash Guard This 4mm thick guard bolts onto existing outer bolt holes

http://www.aft-ebike.com/upgrades.html
 

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Does anyone know the "Rshunt value" of the stock 3000w controller from cyclone is? I need to enter this information into the Cycle Analyst set up menu. Im using the Grin external shunt with Cycle Analyst plug in between the controller and battery. Thx
 
Hi everyone. Im starting the install and had a few questions. I am trying to find out how the mounting hardware works. I bought my kit from Luna cycles and it came with 2 thick brackets. Its going on a fatbike with 105mm BB spacing. The bottom bracket they gave me is too wide, how do I move the non drive side bearing closer in to make the bottom braket spacing correct? Its currently spaced at 120mm. The calipers in the picture are set at 105 mm and you can see the BB cups are too far apart. Additionally, which bolts do I use to connect the chain guide? I am trying to make sense of this upgraded mounting hardware, I can't seem to find any pics of it. There are no aluminum standoffs and it looks like the plates bolt directly to the motor casing. Can someone point me in the right direction for how this kit goes together with the updated brackets?
Please see the attached pics.
Thanks,
Jason
 
Copy the bracket in my picture shown a few post back. It is for a fat bike. In my opinion, the key to a solid installation is the extra flat piece bolted to the left side of the motor. The extra threaded rod also helps but less so than that thin flat with 4 bolts and the 2 little spacers. Doesn't look like much but it works
 
markz said:
Has anyone tried using the Cyclone controller with a direct drive motor?

The one we use on our pedicabs (22A continuous) is just a normal generic controller, and so was the full power version we used when prototyping. I think they'll work on any BLDC motor with Hall sensors. That said, I haven't hooked one up to a hub motor to find out for sure.
 
Current voltage is 52-61V range 15S is too fast (on my 4T mxus 3kw), and it eats wh/km on high throttle. Resoldering pack to 42V 10S will give me 50% more range and slow me down :twisted:
 
ebike11 said:
Does anyone know the "Rshunt value" of the stock 3000w controller from cyclone is? I need to enter this information into the Cycle Analyst set up menu. Im using the Grin external shunt with Cycle Analyst plug in between the controller and battery. Thx

Anyone know this? Or if not..what should i enter in the Cycle analyst menu for shunt value?
 
y markz » Dec 04, 2017 2:08 pm

Has anyone tried using the Cyclone controller with a direct drive motor?

Hi Markz,

yes, some time ago I did use the OEM 40 amp Cyclone controller with a 9C 1000 watt @ 48v hub motor as these controllers are quite cheap and reliable. There was one minor quirk of which I have forgotten, but it was resolvable. I may have posted something on this thread site about a year & half ago regarding the use of the controller for that purpose.

Here is a photo of that adaption:

mod IMG_6522.jpg
 
Good call, I think I like this reverse trike add on.

http://trego-trolley.com/fun-to-ride/


gman1971 said:
No need for paypal money man, but thanks for the thought.

Do the Robocam motor mount mod, (explained in this thread) its easy to do and should get the motor to hold a lot of power without flexing.

If you want to make a trike out a bicycle you can use something like this:
http://www.bicycledesigner.com/trike-parts/hollow-hub-trike-conversion-kit.html

There are lots of things like that all over the place for much cheaper, just look for "bicycle to trike conversion kit"

G.

GIGATT said:
gman1971 said:
ebike11 said:
@ Gman...are u using any special higher quality chain tensioner or just cyclone stock ones?


Stock cyclone tensioner on all my EVs. If your chain is coming off you might be having the motor mount flex and cause the chain derails.

G.




BINGO... I think that's it... (I feel like I owe u PayPal money).

I forgot to reinforce my motor mount once everything else was working. Too much fun distracted me.

I have a trailer so it's normally 3 wheels but if I get jiggy with it and add training wheels, that would make 5, if they count...

I got the speed wobbles today... pulling a high center of gravity trailer with 24 lbs of water and 24 lbs of batteries..bananas Bread etc.

(I calculated that I would get the wobbles .. I'm not THAT dumb)

The wobbles are fun when one does not crash. ... I didn't crash I assume training wheels would have helped. I ALWAYS wanted a trike since I knew they existed. But would rather save money, space, hop curbs and look extra interesting with training wheels.. oh and plus my two stroke is still attatched so I might hook that up.

SMH
 
How many battery amps are you guys running? Running 20S and I'm having trouble getting more than high 50s out of a setup good for 100+ with another motor. Shunt resistance is correct, not LVC, pack is tested. It's sensorless and the motor spins great with no cutting out, it just refuses to max out my controller settings! Weird stuff...
 
74V times 55+ amps is at least 4kW. That's about 3kW mechanical output, which is what the motor is rated for.

Do you want to find out how much it takes to break it, or what?
 
Yeah, definitely. I've already fried one of these. They'll take 6kw intermittently with ease. That was on 120v but same current limit which is extremely perplexing. Limit for cruising reasonable distances in decent weather without frying the thing is maybe 80Wh / mile.
 
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