lawsonuw wrote:How about going with a "half-cross" pattern? (just made this up) If the position of the spokes that I've circled in red were swapped the spokes wouldn't be angled as much. Going with a mixed pattern is another idea I just had. Mix in 6 evenly spaced radial spokes per-side to take road loads, while the remaining 6 pairs of 1-cross spokes transfer the motor's torque. (a 10 radial and 4-pair of 1-cross, or 12 radial and 3-pair of 1-cross might also work)
My 2 electron volts,
voicecoils wrote:Doctorbass wrote:I used the 24" rim and spokes that justin sold me. that was heavy 12 gauge spokes. I had a problem cause the nipples did not fit corectly in the holes, so i needed to drill them. Also, the spokes was a bit short! i would have had like 3mm more long spokes. see the pic
Thanks Doctorbass, do you know what the spoke length was? I have calculated 138mm but perhaps I should add a few mm for dishing.
I am not sure that thick spoke = strong spoke. Spokes almost always fail at the head or nipple, not in the middle. I'm thinking maybe a 13ga/14ga butted spoke may even be suitable.
Can you tell me how many gears are in your cassette and how you went with dropout spacing? Or a link to your build maybe
Cheers! I can't wait to get mine running.
dnmun wrote:VC, call the guys who are building your pack. if they haven't welded it yet you can get them to assemble it to fit into the frame like deec did on his build, that was so sweet, using the water bottle and pump studs, they will weld it up however you ask them, if you send them a cardboard outline, they could do it very accurately i would expect, for no more cost. do it like deec did.
Doctorbass wrote:Here is some pics of the spacing of my dropout, frame torque arm and diskbrake.
voicecoils wrote:Doctorbass wrote:Here is some pics of the spacing of my dropout, frame torque arm and diskbrake.
Great pics thanks!
Tell me about your torque arms. They look like laser cut.
I was thinking about laser cut stainless steel, 5mm thick. What do you think?
Oh and do you know your spoke lenght? Sorry to keep asking!
voicecoils wrote:Doctorbass wrote:Hey Voicecoils,
I really think you should consider this way of placing your battery. this allow you a very good handling and lower the center of gravity. Believe me, that help!
I agree there may be some advantages to you're proposed placement of batteries. Cruisers have low weight while super motos / dirt bikes have the weight more centralised and higher up. So perhaps it depends on the sort of riding your after.
I think with my proposed battery placement the battery weight is a bit high and and towards the back of the bike compared with the KTM pictured above. However, it will be much easier to mount in that position and be more stealth.
If it does feel really bad, I'll look to the option you've draw up. Maybe a super long distance pack
Doctorbass wrote:That's 9mm thick alluminium on each torque arms. they was cuted with a CNC.
johnrobholmes wrote:I would recommend against anything exotic on lacing. A standard 1 cross or radial should be fine, with quality 14 guage spokes. Mixing radial and 1 cross is not a good idea unless the dish of the wheel is extreme.
It looks like 1x is the limit for a 26" build with your motor, and a 24" rim needs modification or a radial lace. With such short spoke lengths you won't notice too much flex in a radial lace honestly.
MitchJi wrote:It might be a good idea to make up a couple of cloth sacks filled with sand (use the legs from a worn out pair of pants) that each weigh about as much as one of your battery packs. Then try riding your bike with the sacks in tied in the different possible positions (you might want to pay attention to how subject the locations are to wheelies). This way you will be absolutely sure you are making the choice you prefer. This will be much easier than changing the mounting location later if it turns out to ride badly with your first choice.
voicecoils wrote:small update:
I've removed the swingarm and have posted it off to be modified and reinforced to accept my X5 hubmotor
Getting the swingarm off was a pain but with a bit of muscle in the end it came out. I learned something that I should have figured out already: the suspension bearings are stuffed. Not a huge deal, they all turn but some quite roughly. I've put in a purchase request for a new bearing set from diymtb.com.au
MitchJi wrote:Who is doing the mods, what changes are they making and about how much will it cost? The reason I ask is I am considering having the length of a swingarm increased to move the rear wheel back about 3" or 4" to make more space for mounting an RC Motor.
It might not be a huge deal that the bearings are shot, particularly since you are removing the swingarm anyway but its great you discovered it
HAL9000v2.0 wrote:hi voicecoils: same thing I did on a x4 and I must add 2mm plate to get 17mm from disc to cover. I was using threaded cover with disc adapter. Then I fitted avid juicy 7 which is 14mm from inner side of disc. It will go without plate but i do not like to have less then 1mm space from cover to caliper.
recumpence wrote:Very cool!
I know what it is like on the front end of a large project. It feels good to get the project under way and nearing completion.
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