Stealth FUTR owners builds and pics

[youtube]-ZGhGFM_DXA[/youtube]
Cricket_Swe said:
Progress!! Just soldered the wires for the on/off button directly in the circuit board of my Adaptto. Now the key works!

https://youtu.be/-ZGhGFM_DXA


(How do you make a YouTube video work on here)
 
Thanks Rix! Now that It's Christmas I'll have time enough to finish the bike up I think. That's gonna be interesting!
 
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I am almost done finally :)
I need to bleed the rear brake and then get a drill bit large enough to install the charge port on the sidepanel! Everything is nice and snug now!
 
Slapped a few bits and pieces together on my Alpha today. Some of the parts had literally started to gather dust I've been sitting on this project so long.
I was hoping to be able to put the HS4080 from my Fighter on it temporarily, but it turns out the drop-out width is narrower on the Alpha than the Fighter by about 10-15mm....to much to squeeze it in.
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A few bit's I was uncertain about do fit however...the forks fit well and turning radius looks like it should be better with these triple clamps than when they were on my Fighter.
The other surprising find was that I can actually fit a 60T chainring. I had it lying around after I upgraded to a 2 speed schlumpf on my Recumbent, and I'm glad I held onto it.
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I should also be able to fit the 52T chainring I already bought as well as a smaller 'get me home' 38T chainring on the inside. That's a lot of chainrings, you might say, but if I'm gonna make do with a single speed rear that's what it will take to make it work for me. :)
DSC_4248.jpg

52T on the right, 60T on the left.

The other thing I discovered is, similar to others, the threads in the pinching dropouts are rubbish. I ended up destroying the bolts that came with the bike already. :x I've ordered some titanium replacements and will tap them properly before going any further.

Next on the list is a MXUS 3K. Not sure where the best place to order is...any recommendations?

Cheers
 
Looking good CD!

drop-out width is narrower on the Alpha than the Fighter by about 10-15mm....to much to squeeze it in.

You are correct, its 12mm narrower. Whats the ETA before your Alpha is up and running? Also, what kind of battery are you going to buy, or build, for it?
 
Rix said:
Looking good CD!

You are correct, its 12mm narrower. Whats the ETA before your Alpha is up and running? Also, what kind of battery are you going to buy, or build, for it?

Thanks Rick!
The Alpha is waiting on the Multistar batteries from my Fighter, plus a few extra I already have to add to them to make 3S3P of the 10AH bricks. It will be 30AH 18S ~2Kwh once done. I played with trying to fit 40AH, but it would have been a very tight squeeze requiring the key switch to be removed so I could cram 2 packs up in the neck...I decided against it as it would have made it near impossible to work on, and not a good option if I hope to sell this thing.
So yeah, that's one of the motivating factors for finishing off my Fighters 18650 battery at the moment.

I'm aiming to have the Alpha up and running by some time in March at this stage. I've still gotta sort the motor, will probably lace it myself, and mount the controller brakes and all the other fiddly bits.

Cheers
 
I really like the silver frame. Sorry to hear about the stripped bolts on the drop out too. What a pita. I've been working through my build every chance I get, these bikes take a lot of time to put together.

With all those chainrings will you be running a derailleur on the bike? You said it had two speeds, is that an internal drive? Why would you need two chainrings.
I reckon only one of those will feel right with whatever size sprocket you have on the back. Changing chainrings is one of my least favorite jobs to do at the shop :)
 
JtHaas said:
With all those chainrings will you be running a derailleur on the bike? You said it had two speeds, is that an internal drive? Why would you need two chainrings.
I reckon only one of those will feel right with whatever size sprocket you have on the back. Changing chainrings is one of my least favorite jobs to do at the shop :)
I'm looking at a chain tensioner now. Something like this should allow all the chainrings to work.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MTB-Bic...ner-Light-Weight-Aluminum-Silver/302417137303
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The smallest chainring will have a lot of slap, but it's only going to be needed in a slow going get me home mode anyway, so no issues with that.

The 2 speed is the Schlumpf drive, otherwise known as the ATS speed drive. I have one on my recumbent (and my Fighter). They are great units, and I would love to put one on the Alpha, but at $650 a pop installed, the price is a bit hard to swallow. If I find even the 60T too slow for my liking I might consider another Schlumpf for the Alpha.

It's worth mentioning, I plan to run 3 chainrings up front (just bought a 38T last night). I will manually change the chain over between them as needed. In the rear I plan to run a 12T freewheel.
Any recommendations for a good quality 12T for the rear?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
s-l1600.jpg

The smallest chainring will have a lot of slap, but it's only going to be needed in a slow going get me home mode anyway, so no issues with that.

The 2 speed is the Schlumpf drive, otherwise known as the ATS speed drive. I have one on my recumbent (and my Fighter). They are great units, and I would love to put one on the Alpha, but at $650 a pop installed, the price is a bit hard to swallow. If I find even the 60T too slow for my liking I might consider another Schlumpf for the Alpha.

It's worth mentioning, I plan to run 3 chainrings up front (just bought a 38T last night). I will manually change the chain over between them as needed. In the rear I plan to run a 12T freewheel.
Any recommendations for a good quality 12T for the rear?

Cheers

CD, you need the Paul components Melvin chain tensioner. https://paulcomp.com/shop/components/melvin-chain-tensioner/
I am running this on my Beta and have had it for over 10 years total on various bikes and Ebike builds. This is the 3rd ebike I have had it on. This mounts directly to the deraileaur hanger, and to shim it for free wheel alignment, all you have to do is move the aluminum spacers around, and maybe a washer or to for perfect alignment. To boot, there is enough chain wrap slack to provide chain tension for up to 20t differences on the front chain rings. So you could get a way with running a 36, 44, and 52 toot up front, or if you use your 60T sprocket, you could also run a 40T as your smallest sprocket. I personally would not run a chain ring on any ebike bigger than 52T because of ground clearance concerns riding off road. But thats just me. I am running a 36/52 sprocket/chain ring combo on my Beta and a 16T free wheel. I call this the poormans Schlumpf :lol: and have pictures posted of it somewhere on this thread. I can pedal assist easily with a fairly conservative cadence at 20mph and on the 52, and when I start climbing anything north of 8% grade, I use my finger to move the chain down to the 36T. Anyway food for thought.
 

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Cowardlyduck said:
Thanks Rick.
I ordered this one already.
https://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/buy/bike-aluminum-chain-tensioner-black/MT-95D
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I will give it a try and see how it goes. No idea what the tooth difference it works with, but will try it anyway and see how I go.
Failing that I might try the Melvin. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers

Looking at this, if it doesn't work, the Melvin may not either for your needs. With the arm, you should get at least the range one would get with the Melvin. Be that as it may, I look forward to your build progress.
 
I didn't get to ride my bike yet unfortunately. I'm having headset issues. I'll be installing an entirely new headset tomorrow and then and then I will sort out the brake as well.

Also I believe I'm having another hall sensor issue. I soldered one of my motor hall sensors into the wrong position I believe so when I try to give it throttle the motor just kind of sputters and twitches. Is it possible I swapped the phase wires? It is gonna take about a minute of trouble shooting so I'll post the result tomorrow. And theennnn after I bleed the rear brake. I will go and ride the damn bike :lol:
 
It's a alloy stator H40, which is basically a crown these days.
Controller will be a crystalyte 18 fet sinewave job running 80A at 21S for around 6500w peak. I could turn it up to 100A for 8kw odd but I think 6-7kw really is the sweet spot. I've had my alpha turned down to 6kw for back to back testing with the surron recently and I dont miss the extra power 99% of the time.
 
Hyena said:
It's a alloy stator H40, which is basically a crown these days.
Controller will be a crystalyte 18 fet sinewave job running 80A at 21S for around 6500w peak. I could turn it up to 100A for 8kw odd but I think 6-7kw really is the sweet spot. I've had my alpha turned down to 6kw for back to back testing with the surron recently and I dont miss the extra power 99% of the time.

Funny you say that, when JK was visiting, we talked in great detail about peak power levels and what we considered the most fun. That led to the discussion of where is the point of diminishing returns as far as the fun factor vs the effort to control a machine cross. In the end, I felt that 7 KW for any machine that weighed around a 100 pounds was maximum ideal, JK agreed.
 
wow thread is looking a little slow, to wake it up heres my 20s10p LG HG2 battery build progress for my Alpha:

FnKkjQ3.jpg


UFt25rW.jpg


and now for why I dropped by before my bike was finished and I could show it off, while building the battery I have been extremely careful and working in a clean(ish) room while being very careful to keep all surfaces clean and basically working in lab conditions.... until i went to get more rubbing alcohol to clean the nickel strips with before I spot weld them. and of course when I get back my brain turns off, grabs a metal pair of callipers to measure a nickel strip already on the battery as I needed to cut a few more from the roll. and of course I touch it to battery and short it. there was a small to medium size spark and the callipers only touched the battery for a split second, seriously I pulled them away as quick as I believe to be humanly possible and I would of imagined the battery probably pushed them away too, Surely the battery is ok, rr..right?. heres a photo of the contact points, I checked the voltage a minute after it happened and the cell group was showing the exact same voltage. what are the chances i did any damage at all?, is it inevitable that i lost a few percent of the total cell group capacity, or is it completely fine?

8xzPJ0Z.jpg


anyway apart form that I'm hoping to have my bike all finished in around 4-5 days. just waiting for my hope brakes to come in and then do the final wiring and it should be rideable (hopefully)

also i'm pretty new to the forum so i guess this is also Hello to many of you, you can call me Heath if you wish bcause I have possibly the hardest to refer to username :lol:
 
\\ (•◡•) / said:
wow thread is looking a little slow, to wake it up heres my 20s10p LG HG2 battery build progress for my Alpha:

FnKkjQ3.jpg


UFt25rW.jpg


and now for why I dropped by before my bike was finished and I could show it off, while building the battery I have been extremely careful and working in a clean(ish) room while being very careful to keep all surfaces clean and basically working in lab conditions.... until i went to get more rubbing alcohol to clean the nickel strips with before I spot weld them. and of course when I get back my brain turns off, grabs a metal pair of callipers to measure a nickel strip already on the battery as I needed to cut a few more from the roll. and of course I touch it to battery and short it. there was a small to medium size spark and the callipers only touched the battery for a split second, seriously I pulled them away as quick as I believe to be humanly possible and I would of imagined the battery probably pushed them away too, Surely the battery is ok, rr..right?. heres a photo of the contact points, I checked the voltage a minute after it happened and the cell group was showing the exact same voltage. what are the chances i did any damage at all?, is it inevitable that i lost a few percent of the total cell group capacity, or is it completely fine?

8xzPJ0Z.jpg


anyway apart form that I'm hoping to have my bike all finished in around 4-5 days. just waiting for my hope brakes to come in and then do the final wiring and it should be rideable (hopefully)

also i'm pretty new to the forum so i guess this is also Hello to many of you, you can call me Heath if you wish bcause I have possibly the hardest to refer to username :lol:

Hi Heath, not an expert on the batteries, but I think you are fine. I have read about others having worse experiences and their packs turned out fine. How about some pics of your build in progress?
 
I'm so close to getting my bike up and running but after fighting with it for two hours I'm lost. It's wired exactly the same as my phasor but I'm still fighting the motor hall setup. I spent a long time resoldering hall sensors etc and I'm losing my mind trying to get it to run.
After doing all the work and it still only sputtering I figured the CA was cutting throttle due to the LVC so I put everything back in the frame charged the battery annndddd. No go. Not even a sputter this time. I gave up there :)
The CA receives throttle but the connection is lost somewhere between the CA and the controller.
I reckon something isn't fully connected :)

I need to make sure it runs though before I keep looking at mid drives for the beta :lol:
 
The only thing I can imagine is that I blew a Mosfet in the controller after initially wiring everything and hopping on to try and scoot around :(
A little too zealous with the throttle when it wasn't set up properly could have done it so we'll see.


Edit:
Multimeter says Im fine.
More headscratching and manual reading.
 
Hi Heath, great looking battery. I hope it fits your alpha! it must be a tight fit. Be good to see some pics / hear how you go installing it, as I have 2 alphas I am about to build up soon and tossing up whether 20s or 18s.... I dont use spacers either at this stage....

I have a few rims from RTL and a mac10 (SamD) motor ready for spoke ordering and lacing for my upcoming beta build. (some v3's coming soon for the alphas :p )

I'm really enjoying the 500w geared mxus beta I put together. I put it through its paces last weekend, and have discovered that it needs a tensioner / chain guide. I'll try and get one to go around the front sprocket. It appears you can get bolt hole brackets that use the BB to be secured in place, allowing for a chain tensioner / guide to be bolted onto the bike. This will be the cleanest approach, id say.

I am using a low end sunrace deraileur and could probably upgrade to one of these clutch type units for a bit more tension too.
I'm running 8speed, but would probably recommend going 7 in the future.

I'll take some pics / video soon hopefully.
 
Lash said:
Hi Heath, great looking battery. I hope it fits your alpha! it must be a tight fit. Be good to see some pics / hear how you go installing it, as I have 2 alphas I am about to build up soon and tossing up whether 20s or 18s.... I dont use spacers either at this stage....

Hello lash, Yea I put together the battery spacers and test fit it before I build the battery and it fits with not even a cm to spare, plus I have to wiggle it in so getting the finished battery in with 6awg wires coming off it is going to be quite a challenge, but should be worth it. If you're not using cell spacers i'd say a 20s with the cells all hot glued so there touching each other would fit in the battery bay with a inch or more to spare length ways, so i'd recommend the 20s but measure it all up before you do it just incase as it seems these frames can vary a bit with the dimensions


Rix said:
Hi Heath, not an expert on the batteries, but I think you are fine. I have read about others having worse experiences and their packs turned out fine. How about some pics of your build in progress?

So far the build pics are pretty boring, I have a rolling frame minus the drivetrain. When the bike is finished i'll post some pictures of inside the frame and some of the build pics. But i'm also going away for a overseas holiday so you may not here anything from me for around 3 weeks
 
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