Newbie with an ebike

Well over the weekend I broke down both batteries(13s5p) and put them both together into an 13s10p pack and was able to get everything into the triangle case I made but they barely fit. Pretty happy with my results.

My commute to work one way is 4.7 miles and I usually go pretty much full blast on the throttle. Usually about 60% of the way there (and over the only two hills in this commute; bridge over a bayou and bridge over railroad tracks, very steep) I'd notice on my display I get to 3/4 of battery and stay there until I reached work then returning to home I'd be at half. Well since I did the battery over the weekend (charged to full on Friday then broke them down and put them together, finished on Sunday no recharge) rode about a mile or so Sunday just to test, rode to work this morning 6.3 miles at work and had all 4 bars. Right at 8 miles on the return this afternoon dropped down to 3/4, needed to go to Wal-Mart and return home at 13.6 miles and dropped down to 1/2 way mark in my driveway but had considerable stop and go on the second half of my journey today and as always pretty much all full throttle. Reads 49.3v right now. Going to leave it off the charger tonight to try and see what my real range is for a good charge.

I'm by no means at all a knowledgeable bicyclist and over the weekend I changed out new v brakes (complete; cables, arms, pads, everything) and switched over to finger shifters from grip shifters (handlebars were crowded with twist throttle and grip shifters). Went pretty smoothly as I've already adjusted everything before i converted to electric when i got it out of storage.
But since combining the batteries it doesn't seem quite the same. Feels like it takes a little longer to get up to good speed (I always pedal and can feel when the motor overpowers me pedaling at about 17mph). Should this be expected? I know I added more weight but in the grand scheme of things (this was a pretty heavy bike after the conversion and I'm 185 lbs) I didn't think it would have been as noticeable.
Going to double check everything tonight and make sure nothing is dragging, it really doesn't feel like mechanical drag. Also trying to figure out some more about tire inflation, this whole time I've been riding at around 35 psi and have felt like every other day the tires feel a little flat and top them off to 35 but today before the store I did that and noticed the tire says 60-90 psi on the tire that came on my electric hub rim kit. Felt better at 40 but don't know how far to go with these slime filled tubes. Any advice on solid tires with heavy ebikes?
 
Guess I blew my controller up. Bike acted all weird the other day, display claimed it went from 48v to 14v all of the sudden and wouldn't run. Switched it off and back on, worked fine but kept randomly doing this throughout the day and especially under full throttle. Took everything apart and checked the battery as I assumed some solder had come loose from when I built the battery but everything was still strongly intact. The only thing i noticed was it appeared to have a spot on one cell that looked like it had rubbed against something and was bare. Beefed up the wrapping on the battery and decided to look inside the controller. Nothing looked burned up in there but was difficult to get back together as there are some screws that went from the outside of the controller to some threaded washers on the back side of the fets but no way to keep them where they needed to be when putting it back together so I just hot glued them to keep them in place and put the screws back in. Recharged the battery and hooked everything up, went to test and no good.
Feel the motor bump but doesn't go around and my display says error info 06 and sometimes 01. Trying to figure it out and took the controller apart again found a little burn spot on one of these washers.

Trying to find a new controller or advice. kt48zwsrlt-led is the model number on the controller, my searches have come up empty so far
 
Got a whole new ebike kit as I couldn't find just the exact controller by itself. With the new controller on I lifted the rear wheel and tested it, all seemed good. Mounted the controller where it would get airflow and thought I'd be good to go. Today I needed to run to the store so I hop on it and take off, about 20 ft and it shuts off. Try a few more times and its the same thing. Trying to narrow it down and it will cruise around 12 mph but any more on the throttle and it shuts off. Inside trying to figure it out and it works fine with no load on the bicycle(tire off the ground) but no matter what when I sit on it, it shuts off with so much throttle. Tried using the new throttle, display, motor and everything but it still acts this way. Battery reads 52.8v and I'm just lost on how to continue testing to figure out how to fix it. Any advice please?
 
I still don't have a cycle analyst yet so how could I go about using my multimeter to determine the amount of amps being drawn when I throttle the bike with a load on it? I do have a second "bms" ( one from each original battery, only used one when I combined the batteries together) I could try swapping out to see if anything changes but not sure if that would work if I'm drawing too many amps during throttle. About to order a CA today in hopes of sorting this whole thing out. As always any advice is appreciated.
 
Sounds like you've been trying to run a incorrect hall / phase combo. Don't bother with measuring current. The real combination will leave you with no doubt that things are working correctly. You can blow a controller trying to run an incorrect combo though so be careful until you've found the right one.

This link explains how you can find the right combo thru trial and error:
https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/Determining_the_Wiring_for_a_Brushless_Motor
 
I don't really think that would be it as everything works fine with no weight on the motor.
 
All I've been able to figure out thus far is the volts on one group of my batteries is reading low. All parallel groups are at 4.20v except one that's at 2.54v. It's a 13s10p, so I guess I'll just take out the group of 10 that are reading low and break everything else down to reconfigure it in 13s9p for the time being unless anyone else says that's a bad idea and has a better suggestion.
 
Get rid of that cell group. There's probably an internal short in one cell that's dumping juice from the others in parallel with it.
 
That seems to have done it. Pulled out that bad cell group, broke down the rest and reconfigured them to 13s9p. Seems to work fine now. Haven't had the chance to see if the original controller is actually bad or not yet, but I'll get to that in the next week. I do feel a little better about the setup now knowing that I have the other controller mounted out of the box and getting some airflow now.

Trying to figure out which cell out of the group is the bad one. Broke it down a little more into 5p, 3p and 2p groups (easiest way for the time being in case I wanna put it back in a larger group again) and charged them up. Last few days the 5p group has dropped back down the most. I'll break it down some more and repeat the process until I narrow it down some more and discard of the bad one.
 
It's a nice looking set up. I'm looking to do something similar. What is the donor bike you used?
 
It's a schwinn high timber with a bouncy seat off my beach cruiser. It was a free gift about 10 years ago with the purchase of an air compressor, and had been just sitting around hardly ever been used. The decals claim its aluminum although the magnet test reveals otherwise which I'm happy about. Front shocks are bs pogo style but it's better than no suspension.
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And a couple more newbie questions since I'm very lacking in electrical knowledge.
I'm putting my controller, I thought was bad, back together to stick it on and see if it's still any good since I don't know any other way to test it and I wanted a little input.

This is where I noticed a little "burn" spot kinda on that black cylindrical thingy and a little on the board next to it. Its small but wanted some input.
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These threaded backplates? do they serve any real purpose or are they just for mounting? There's a thin "plastic" sheet on the controller case where the other side of the fets(?), Assuming so they don't contact the case, and a screw goes from the outside of the case and threads through these plates. Again are they just for mounting purposes and could some be left out? I've hot glued them in place to put it all back together but they're just a P.I.A. to get them all right without knocking one loose and trying again.
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Well, I plugged in the original controller and it throws error codes 06 and 01 so I'm guessing there is something wrong inside there. Plug in the new one and everything works fine. Guess I was dealing with two different problems at the same time when I was going through a rough spot, a bad cell group in the battery as well as the bad controller.
 
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