A2b metro gti

Amiran said:
Thanks,
I will try to cad it if you do not mind.

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Long as you don't make money from it on don't care.
 
I've been looking what tyres are available that suit my needs and how the aspect ratio works on sizing them.
I've come to conclusion that a michlien city pro tyre is a good choice for myself using it mostly on asphalt in dry conditions, I've noted that there's many sizes available in front and rear tread patterns so I'm going with a 80/80/16 front and a 80/90/16 rear that should fill my rims best and give me a good stance and just have enough clearence all round.
 
Hi , I'm in need of a battery for my hybrid 24 or just the end plate with the battery connector on as mine went walkabout , any help would be greatly appreciated , also the speedo dash /key if poss as mine took a beating in an attempted theft , any help would be a massive help ,ps your project is brilliant , thanks Colin , location Chester
 
Coz said:
Hi , I'm in need of a battery for my hybrid 24 or just the end plate with the battery connector on as mine went walkabout , any help would be greatly appreciated , also the speedo dash /key if poss as mine took a beating in an attempted theft , any help would be a massive help ,ps your project is brilliant , thanks Colin , location Chester


Hi Colin I'm sorry I'm no help at all mine was a gen1 with no speedo and only had an internal battery I'm sure your model has external only, I would love to get my hands on the b battery too fill it with lipo, shame is the bastards proberly broke it to pieces for the cells not realising they are old tech and the case proberly had more value.

I got spare rims tyres and a torque arm but I don't think of that will fit your ride. Sorry to hear your bad luck but turn it into a positive build a custom box with double the range.
 
Just waiting on post now getting impatient. The stand on the bike was looking worse for wear so ive stripped it all down and painting it, I spotted it had no fiber washers in them stock so the paint was always gonna scratch to hell I've worked that out now so the stand will look sweet and not scratch.


I'll start assembling the battery soon I've got 24s worth of 10ah turnigy graphene cells, they will all fit in the frame but I'll be going 20s for the mean time I think.
 
Got my problem solver 4.8mm front fat fork adapter in post today so I promptly fitted it and checked my disc brake alignment and if by magic all was well dropped straight on like a charm, not a hint of disc to pad fouling when spinning so perfecto.
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I also got 5 tins of ambersil red electrical varnish so up next is a final strip down of the rear, take the hub apart and seal it's inners from any corrosion and give the magnet ring an extra bead of epoxy on its edge to help stop any water getting behind causing corrosion and separating them.

I got my stand put back together and fitted too not much to see here other than the rust is gone and it's shiny.
 

After breaking the original hub I was on pins taking the mxus apart but with a bit of determination I have the four sections ready to have some loving and get spoked up for its final fit to the frame and after what seems an eternity I'll have a fully custom riding a2b metro that just needs it's electrics brought upto date with the rest of it and it's golden.
 
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The magnet ring has had some major loving, I started by put loctite 270 thread locker around the magnet rings edge and allowed it to bleed down behind the magnets to find any dry areas the factory adhesive missed in assembly? I give that a day to dry and then I epoxy'ed the magnets edge to seal it for good, I left that a day to stand and now I have sprayed it with ambersil electrical motor enamel, I'm going to give this a day to dry i will wet amd dry the finish and apply another very thin coat and then give that a good few days before reassembling it to make sure it's all harden well and the coat is thin and strong.
 
The wheels turn slow but they do turn.
Magnet ring finished and cover plates just the armature needs a wet and dry to the main face and final coat all over then wait a few days and assemble it.
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Hi,
Do you know what winding you gon in this dd hub ?

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Look how many turns are on each tooth it can be difficult to see if it's wound tight, The more turns on a tooth the less thickness the grouped phase wires equate too so if you can see how many strands on each wind you could work it out from that to known versions of your motor.
My hub is a 4T so it should climb decent enough with 84v 40amp but that's my controller ragged edge I need something with more grunt in the future to get it on its back wheel but for now it will do,
I'm debating getting another 4 packs and have 20s 20ah rear mounted or 20s 10ah in the frame that i have enough for and one spare so I can be fussy with the cells I choose.
Either way I'll have 600wh usable to 80% vs 1200wh
600wh will be nicely placed and make the bike ride better than stock but the 1200wh pack will be 20 cells over the rear end with a weight around 15kg that would destroy the ride in my eyes the front wheel will hover all the time so I just got to convince myself the 600wh route is the way to go it's still enough for me to get a move on with my journey around 12 miles I could get upto 20 miles range maybe more if I plodded along but a the 1200wh pack would get me home to easily ?:/.
 


All the parts are sprayed now ill just leave it a few days to harden off and put it back together.
I need to get this thing on its feet and install a bathroom in one month to meet a ride I got planned so it's balls to the wall flat out from here on in.
 
Been doing some thinking and the motor will not be happy until it's doing around 15-35ish mph to be running efficently so in my view along with a few others rides I've seen it is wiser to just go single speed and gear yourself around last gear so you can pedal along and give good help in an efficent zone of the rpm range and simplify the drivetrain no more gears very low maintenence specially with the overall.

Good thing is the freewheel change doesn't make a difference to the hub shift so the spokes will still work fine and my pedaling forces will be closer to the hub flange putting less stress on the side cap giving I'd of been using last gear mainly with a slightly taller gear 11tooth on the cassette vs 15 tooth single speed and its further out on the cassette putting alot more added force on the side cover for very little extra speed gain and as for servicing it's a no brainer lose the gears add big battery so you never go furtjer than range all in all I should be getting close on 50 miles to a charge when plodding about if not more.

The battery malarkey is still over my head I see the cells are super low in price again and after inspection I can only fit 18s 10ah in the frame or 530wh usable which is barely acceptable for me specially trying to have fun I may use this space for a built in charger or something.
I may just hang weight on the rear as far forward as I can and pump that shock right up, drop 20s 20ah of lipo for 1.2kwh usable power 300a battery on tap its lucky I'm fairly skinny so it won't be to much stress on the old girl I'd have 8kg of lipo + wiring and aluminium containment over the back wheel so close on 10kg I'd say by time I'm done and the controller will need relocating it's a jigsaw puzzle that I'm not rushing with i will check mate and win in the end.
 
Nice progress! I haven't looked at your build thread in a while. I like the work on the motor. You could soak it in the ocean and it would survive! Your bike will be awesome when done. Have you decided on a voltage for it?

I've been busy too. I halled up 4 motors, reinforced 2 outrunner shafts, built several battery packs, tested out the Sabvoton controller I got several months ago, been helping out a noob do his first build and got work on the blue moped and the Currie going too.
 


Got a shimano 16 tooth mx30 freewheel and a weaponized single speed chain tensioner so there's no more gear's on my a2b, I need to get a split link so I can shorten the chain but I've got my final hub alignment now no more changing my mind I'm working out my spoke length and angle for the final time and ordering front and back and get these chunky rims on and stand her up on her feet and i need to order some new tyres too.

I've worked out that peddling at 90rpm will be around 20mph and the hub will sit there all day at that speed so I should hopefully have this setup to travel quite efficiently the controller I have is a sinewave irf4010 12fet so I won't be pushing big power through it but I shouldn't be to slow and I can give a helping hand to I'm more concerned on a decent cruise speed and an average watthour per mile it won't be to great as the tyres ain't skinny as a bike but I think I will be surprised when it's finished.
 
Cut the chain to length and had a look at my chain line it's straight as a die so I'm well happy with that, but with pulling the chain in closer to the hub it does mean I have to watch my tyre size I'll end up using 2.75 on the rear and a smaller size on the front more than likely still a bit undecided like a woman in a shoe shop.
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Progress has been made with my wheels,
I laced the mxus in a 1 cross pattern with 9 gauge spokes and 6.4mm nipples in a 2.15- 16" moped rim with a Michelin m45 80/80 16 tyre.
I took the front hub opened the flange holes out from 2.5mm to 3.0mm and then spoked it in a 3 cross pattern with 12 gauge spokes and 6.4mm nipples in a 1.65-16" moped rim with a Michelin city pro 80/80 16 tyre.
Both wheels have motorbike valves and run tubeless, the spacing of the hub has shifted to the drivetrain cog side so I have the chain around 1 inch from the tyre so there won't be clearance issues and that puts the hubs center of mass more in line with the middle of the bike and myself when riding for better balance.
I've then spoked the rim so it runs true to the frame and it works out I have used very little hub shift at all with plenty of room on the disc side to bring the phase wires out and clipped to the frame with out the disc of being any issues having a 5mm spacer on it so all is coming along nicely.
I've got a few pics but I'll have a more pic heavy update once I get the wheels inflated after new year now slowly but surely it's getting done.
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where did you get the ceiling laundry basket
it sure would tidy up our laundry ??
 
robo4 said:
where did you get the ceiling laundry basket
it sure would tidy up our laundry ??

I store a lot of my stuff on the ceiling it's a bit back to front where I'm from.
Do you like my ceiling tiles and the skirting board new trend, next few days be the last of these upside down pics she be on her wheels.
 
I finally got the wheel together and the tyres I bought just will not go on my rim I lubed them up got the bead in the deck but something was not right It wouldn't go on £70 down the drain :(.

So the stock tyres went on they still like new and with the extra wide rim and 30psi the tyres hold the bikes weight better than the original narrow rims still wish I saved myself the hassle and £70 but live and learn maybe I'll build an off road 20 inch bike and the tyres and bmx rims would make a very strong combo but I have enough projects for now.

Had a hour or two tweeking things and the wheel is on for keeps it's all lined up brakes not rubbing and peddles well sounds nice with the single speed and the chain stay's nice and tight much quiter than stock but still noisey enough to know your chain is well over 1 metre long.
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It's finally on its wheels not without many headaches but it's there just electrics now on in i may put the stock pack back in with a new controller till I can afford to build a decent nmc lion pack.

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It looks stock...so far so good! I'd never know that you had upgraded it if I didn't know what you have done to it. These are one of the best looking e-bikes IMHO. Your's look great!
 
I've mounted the controller under the rear of the frame I never intend to use a b battery so I've removed the loom for it and made a bracket from alu to fit the controller to 2 stock holes situated under the frame.

I plan in removing the lock to the b battery and slide cap on the rear of the frame to fit a rear light inside the frame and a switch in the locks place that's only active when the ignitions on to activate the front and rear lights.

I've kept this bike bare as possible no more gear's just two brake levers a throttle on one side and a regen/ brake hi push switch on the other so I don't want to put switches up front for lights the ignition and charge port is just below the seat so a switch on the rear for the lights will be as stealth as I can get it while making use of all the holes supplied factory.

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I have a 14s, 9p pack I put on the back of my A2B. It weighs about 13.5lb. The weight on the rear doesn't really seem to bother the handling much. If I'm just running to the store or a short trip, I use the frame pack, but for longer rides I put the big battery on the rear and have two batteries. 50 miles is no problem if you keep the speed below about 20.
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Some decent upgrades you have there, decent shock moped tyres new controller and hub by the looks of it and lots of carrying capacity and I see you have a quick release on the seat I may pinch that idea off you I like it.

At the moment Im going to run the stock internal pack but eventually I will be putting a 16s6p pack in the downtube and getting some decent tyres that fit but after £70 of Michelins sat in the shed that won't go on ill wait till the stock tyres are bald luckily they still like new the bikes barely had a life at all so far.
 
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