new eZip motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Electric snow machine.

Was downtown with an 18 pack on Christmas eve. Streets were covered with a fresh white blanket at least 1/2 inch thick and made it up the hills and home with no problem with the 800 watt hub motor on the back. The tread was not aggressive either so was suprized it did that good.

Took the SLAs down and barley made it so left them there for lesss weight on way back and just charged the old packs back up today.

Looks like 6-1/4 " on the spoke. Really do not want to run a front wheel hub in winter. Took off the torque arms for the 20" hub motor also so will need to order two new ones. Yes if you can send a spoke I can fix the Schwinn up for summer but will never order another front hub motor as rear is definatlly better expecially on slippery roads.

Still waiting on those adapters from XT60 to 4mm bullets. Looks like January now but don't matter much as too cold to run anything now that don't have a heater. Was below zero today WITHOUT the wind chill factor. If the wind was blowing it would have been around 25 below. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

PS. Lucky I did not get a DWI last night. Went downtown and drank way too many beers and don't remember the trip home much but wiped out in front of my house. I remember going back downstairs to get the cash box with the LiPos and bringing them upstairs. They were in the middle of the sidewalk and bike was chained to the metal stair-rail about half way up the steps. keys were under the screen door. I was really wasted.

I have to check them now to see if I ran them too low and destroyed them or not. I will need to teach my friend how to ride my bikes so if I get that drunk again I can leave it there and take a cab and he can ride it back to my house the next time we get drunk and then he can take a cab home.

that reading on the third cell down is 3.87 not 3.07. I know because that balancer got really hot awhile ago and burned out the led display. I will check it with the other balancer.

man I am a drunkin idiot. Must have been riding with that beer in my hand all the way. Explains why I wiped out in front of the house. :oops: :lol: :lol:

Ok I got a parallel cable missing on one side but the other side reads 3.86 to 3.87 on all. looks like 3.86 to 3.89 on other side as balance plugs in parallel. Good thing for the cash box as it took a beating last night due to drunkin stupidity. Those old packs have held up very well over the years now and show the true quality of the packs. Much better than that cheap garbage they sell on e bay.

LC out.

PS.

Charging them back up. Got to take cans back today so I can get more beer. :D
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3035.JPG
    IMG_3035.JPG
    162.2 KB · Views: 2,802
  • IMG_3036.JPG
    IMG_3036.JPG
    124.3 KB · Views: 2,802
  • IMG_3037.JPG
    IMG_3037.JPG
    126.8 KB · Views: 2,800
  • IMG_3038.JPG
    IMG_3038.JPG
    205 KB · Views: 2,799
  • IMG_3039.JPG
    IMG_3039.JPG
    124.4 KB · Views: 2,799
  • IMG_3040.JPG
    IMG_3040.JPG
    160.8 KB · Views: 2,799
  • IMG_3042.JPG
    IMG_3042.JPG
    107.4 KB · Views: 2,796
latecurtis wrote: ↑Sat Dec 09, 2017 9:17 am
I need to get bullet plugs on them and on the charger when it comes. It would make no sense to order a dozen adapters as all the controllers on each bike I own have bullet plugs so I would need to spend a lot of money to change when I just need to put bullets on them.
Don't be foolish!
Buy some xt60 parallel cables and 1 xt60 to bullet adapter.

It was foolish to order them :evil: :evil:

Waited about a month for adapter plugs that are completly useless. I still have to cut the wires and solder bullets on them. I guess bullet extensions WITHOUT the xt60 plugs would have been about the same price but still have a bunch Dan sent.

Exactly why I wont order a pully wheel for the Unite motor to do a belt drive. Without the exact part it is a waste of money. I guuess I am finished with new projects. Sick and tired of ordering parts that are wrong.

Whats worse is the light on the front porch is shot and the fan is broke so now it is almost impossible for me to solder anything as I am not breathing those fumes. They are wicked so I guess I wasted my $$$ again. Don't even have $$$ for a slice of pizza at the end of the month or laundry and wasted about $100 on parts I cant really use unless I just tape the the wires togeather.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3050.JPG
    IMG_3050.JPG
    164.6 KB · Views: 2,777
Should try ordering parts while sober?

Can't afford a light bulb?
 
1.9 miles one way 2.8 miles round trip. two small hills coming back. Batteries are fine. Fully charged now and were not run low even though I was drunk as a skunk.

It is a 4 foot shop light screwed to the ceiling and looks like the ballest went. Also freezing out there and really do not want to cut off these yellow plugs without solder and shrink wrap. Got solder but no shrink wrap.

Also can't find the fan I had in the window and Wall-Mart don't even sell any fans until spring and definatlly not breathing in those nasty fumes from solder.

I think I was sober. I usually order parts as soon as I get back from Wall-Mart then drink after that. Thanks guys for posting.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3053.JPG
    IMG_3053.JPG
    159.5 KB · Views: 2,758
158mm 13G ?

Gets cold enough and fluorescents won't start! ... ? Or take "forever" to "warm up".
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Unfinished projects to do or not to do.

I have been getting up earlier. It is 2:16 PM EST-USA. Plenty of light out there. If I can locate a fan I will be able to do the solder today and pick the shrink wrap up later so it will look like professonal cables. I would need to solder parallel cables anyway. I would like to try these 36V packs out before ordering more. I will need to wrap a little electrical tape around them first so the packs do not short and hopefully find large shrink wrap to go over that for a professional look.

It would be awsome to run the Schwinn again so would be really cool to have a spoke which would fit as I have no idea where I would order one. I am debating if I will order #420 chain and breaker to work on that chain drive. Since it is all it needs to get one motor running on the 24" bike. I am not sure. I already have the parts to get one motor going but will need two for 24" wheels.

Ok. I am inserting this. 11/12 2018 - 11:13 PM. I am just about to open my first beer of the night. I did not make advanced auto for the shrink wrap. I may order it online as I am looking for a specific size and there I get different sizes most of which is too small. It needs to just fit over the bullet plugs and no bigger. Electrical tape will work for now and also the charger takes some time to fully charge a pack. I am thinking about a charger for each pack so that will be $50 total for each 36 volt pack with the charger.

I could get an expensive charger but appreciate the simplicity of the cheap charger. red for charging and blue when it is fully charged. You can see in the picture the checkmark which shows the red light if you click on the pic to make it larger. (bottom pick) It should soon turn blue as that pack was 41 volts to start and the first was like 36.7V I think. If these packs work good which means downtown and back or three miles round trip two packs run in parallel there should be plenty of battery left over for a Wall-Mart run also which is ledss than 2 miles round trip. How low should I run them ?

I also would like to order some cheap cells this month and build a 54 volt pack so I get the experience of building my first pack. It can be a long distance pack. I won't need it to go to my brothers next summer like I was talking about in earlier posts as I disowned most of my family over the holidays. I will never be going up that way for any reason ever again.

It is a long story I won't be going into but if anyone wants to see me they know where I live and can come and see me. I am done chasing people I am related to just to see them once a year when it is obvious they do not really care if they see me or not. It has been a long time coming so I perfeer to stay right where I am. If any of them ever knock on my door or message me I will answer the door or speak to them but as far as ever going to where they are they f _ _ _ _ d that up forever.

You guys here on ES , my close friends on Pirates Tides of Fortune and three friends here in Schenectady have treated me much better than anyone I am related to over the years and that is who I consider family. Thanks for posting.

LC out.

PS. The light is working. Thanks for fixing the code. lol Power of suggestion but whatever you said the reason it worked.
How many of you believe in the Matrix and Holograph theories going around these days in modern particle physics.

https://phys.org/news/2017-01-reveals-substantial-evidence-holographic-universe.html

https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2016/oct/11/simulated-world-elon-musk-the-matrix

Chances are a billion to one that we are living in a base reality say top scientists. DA. you are smarter than most people here on the planet. Definatlly in the top 1 or 2% I would say. If I were to guess myself and most everyone here on ES are at least in the top 5 or 10% of the smartest people on the planet. most people can't comprehend such theories.

Many people expecially in third world countries don't know how to read or write. :lol: I can comprehend what they are talking about even though the math behind the theories I may never understand. What do you think about those theories. You run a computer store. Do you think we are all code ? Please let me know. Thanks.

LC out.

PS.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nomxjokRYig

The new packs I got got an exellent review. If Richard Loyd likes them chances are I got a great deal however still want to run them before ordering two more and another charger. I cannot afford to buy a charger for each one but am looking at perhaphs four more and two more chargers.

I am searching for 72 volt brush controllers for two 48 volt Unite motors in parallel and 2,500 watts total and 40 mph gearing with the chain drives. :twisted: Thanks.

I forgot that such a thing does not exist. I will need to order a second 48 volt controller and a second 1,000 watt 48V unite motor and another 60 tooth spoke kit for 2,000 watts and 37.5 mph gearing. then as long as the 48 volt controllers have at least 56 volt caps a custom 54 volt (fully charged) large capacity pack should work for 40 mph. :twisted:

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3034.JPG
    IMG_3034.JPG
    176.5 KB · Views: 2,717
  • IMG_3066.JPG
    IMG_3066.JPG
    112.3 KB · Views: 2,715
  • IMG_3067.JPG
    IMG_3067.JPG
    148 KB · Views: 2,701
  • IMG_3068.JPG
    IMG_3068.JPG
    163 KB · Views: 2,701
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. no front chain drive.

I guess it would be foolish to ignore everyones advice and build a 40 mph bike with a chain drive on the front. Also I am building a gaming machine for steam games and need a decent video card and 450 or 500 watt power supply. I really do not want to order a second Unite motor and another 48 volt controller which could kill me if the chain were to pop off at around 40 mph and get caught up in the spokes and flip the bike. :roll:

It is with deep regret I wont be building a 40 mph e bike this winter. I do not want to order anything this month for e bike projects except for #420 chain and chain breaker. It will be overgeared at 28.5 mph and will probably only do 26 mph on the flat at 36 volts, 750 watts and 2,250 rpm.

Even if there were a 65 or 70 tooth spoke sprocket I would not order it as I already have the 60 tooth hooked up to the rear 24" wheel. I could take it off and use it on a 20" rim but really don't want to.

I do not want to hear about how it is overgeared because it is safer than a 40 mph front chain drive. It does have a working front brake. I will get doug to hook up a deraiuler and pedal gears for aggressive pedal assist to make up for the over-gearing. thanks.

LC out.

PS. I will be searching for a rear hub motor for my 26" Haro V3 which can handle 72 volts (two of the 36V packs in series) That will be my 40mph e bike. A 48 volt 1,500 watt motor capable of handeling 72 volts would do the trick. I can't afford a Cro- motor so am looking at less than $300 if possible for the kit. There is no rush as it is for spring or summer.
 

Attachments

  • newbuild.jpg
    newbuild.jpg
    159.7 KB · Views: 2,644
Why not just buy a cheap gas scooter and save yourself time and money? JMO. Good luck and stay warm.
 
three reasons.

1) I build e bikes and have five of them. It is my hobby and this is just another project. The motor is an extra one I have so want to put it to use with the extra parts lying around.

2) electric powered bicycles are barley legal around here in upstate NY. Downtown for example they are not allowed. The last time I checked a throttle was illeagel. The motor had to work off the pedal sensor and just kick in while pedaling, however most places if they see you pedal they do not bother you, however a gas motor in the triangle and the noise factor, they only last a couple days around here and someone gets a ticket and/or it is taken away.

3.) gas pollutes our environment. I myself am doing what I can to reduce my carbon footprint.

Anyway thanks for posting and hope it answers your question.


I am wondering since a chain drive on the front wheel is dangerous as if it pops off it can flip the bike but without a motor on the front this bike will be overgeared by a lot expecially at 48 volts and 3, 000 rpm is it possible that a small brushless motor hooked up to the front wheel via a friction drive help the rear chain drive motor out to make up for the over-gearing ? I will calculate the speed at 1,000 watts and 48 volts with the rear 24" wheel and 60 T spoke set up.

Gearing is for approx. 38 mph which is 8 mph overgeared. I think a small powerful RC brushless motor with a friction drive tight against the front tire would work if it were possible to hook up. I have two brushless controllers Dan sent and one is 36 volts. It would be very complicated however so the other option is a hub motor on the front but only Alien power can do custom gearing for a 1,000 watt front hub motor to do 38 mph as normally it would not work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHJD3OEQkec

according to that video a friction drive is capable of greater than 40 mph so I do not see why it would not work for 38 mph on the front wheel.

Please let me know what you all think.

Cost over $5 for those. Was not sure of the size but at least one fit. I guess I will need $5 more. Mabye I can use one of the others to build a custom pack for 54 volts. I will look into it. I am not into leftovers so doubt I will use many of them for storing food. Thanks.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3079.JPG
    IMG_3079.JPG
    170.3 KB · Views: 2,593
  • IMG_3080.JPG
    IMG_3080.JPG
    153.7 KB · Views: 2,593
  • IMG_3081.JPG
    IMG_3081.JPG
    178.5 KB · Views: 2,582
latecurtis said:
Also I am building a gaming machine for steam games and need a decent video card and 450 or 500 watt power supply.

You're seriously tempting me to upgrade. I've had a few unexplained reboots lately, and I can only run games on high detail on 1080p. If I switch to 4K, it only runs on Low-Mid depending on the game. That's also turning off Anti-aliasing, which is a nice to have, not not that critical on 4K. My computer is a mishmash of parts ranging from 1 year old to 7 years old, and it's getting long in the tooth.

Problem is, I want to go to a "one device" model. One device for work, gaming and mobile. something like this:

OriginalPng


Coupled with an eGPU which is left at home for gaming, and a Thunderbolt external hard drive, which is left at work.

Unfortunately, it still uses a 7th gen low power chip, which is not quite good enough for gaming. The 8th gen chips which are just coming out now are probably only just good enough, but the 9th gen 10nm chips, which promises to save 40-75% power for the same performance, will let manufacturers put much more powerful chips into tablets, without shortening their battery life.

So if I upgrade now, I either have to accept something not great, or I can upgrade a PC now, and not need it at the end of the year, when the 10nm devices come out.

Decisions, decisions...
 
Thanks for letting me know as I did not hear about the ten generation devices. I am only looking to run Skyrim and mabye GTA5 at this time. nothing more than that but might want to build something better later.

I brought the Currie upstairs and made sure the bracket is tight. Chain is not to tight or too loose. It is actually perfect. I needed to make sure it stays that way so tightened up the brackets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0x5WvOJhxk&feature=youtu.be

So it has been working perfect. Just want to keep it that way. The reason is it is a brand new wheel and the other key to success is it is NOT a spoke sprocket. Rag sprocket is another name and they are very difficult to install and almost impossible to get them to spin right. It takes many hours and sometimes still wont work.

Not sure yet if I am going to put the 60 tooth back on a 20" wheel for proper gearing. The 48 volt motor needs a home and am still ordering at least a 1,500 watt rear hub motor for the haro V3. Thanks.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3082.JPG
    IMG_3082.JPG
    176.4 KB · Views: 2,554
Interesting idea for mounting those battery packs. Make sure you do something to secure the lids. Something like a nylon strap or perhaps even good old duct tape. I'm not sure if the packs move around in the containers much, but if so, I'd also consider packing the air spaces with something like a dense packing foam so the batteries don't move around a lot. I'd look for some of that plastic closed cell foam like is often used to protect hard drives.


Ah! On closer inspection of the photo, I see that they are wedged in place and that the wedging surely secures the lids.
 
Yes. Thanks. That is a good idea.

I have been watching youtube videos on friction drives.

I am thinking about doing it with that 24" project bike just for fun and to see if I can pull it off. The end of the razor scooter motor in the video was threaded so I may actually have to bolt something to the 11 tooth sprocket to make it work.

The thing which makes friction drives superior is if you use a light RC motor and spring to disengage the drive wheel it is theoretically possible to pedal or cost downhill with no resistance and will be much lighter than a hub motor or chain drive. For now though I will be using a unite motor for my first try as it is available.

I know that a 16 or 20 tooth freewheel can be bolted to a 80 tooth #25 sprocket so do not see why an 11 tooth motor sprocket would not work also. I will just need the right bolts and at least 4 of them I think. They will need to be long enough to go thru the friction wheel apparatus.

Not really worried about 40 mph. I just want to accomplish something new and look forward to experimenting with friction and belt drives. Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Thanks.

LC out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. First run.


The first run on the new Sona 36 volt packs was downtown approx. 3.8 miles round trip however I walked up the first little hill and thru heavy traffic so we will knock off about 0.3 miles so 3.5 miles would be more accurate.

Voltage before starting out was 41 volts. After returning home it was down to 35 volts. I used the variable controller and average speed was less than 10 mph due to shitty road conditions. Only the main roads were clear enough to travel between 10 and 15 mph.

I want to know if 35 volts is normal. The two packs are combined and this is the break in cycle also which I know effects power.
Should I expect an increase in power which would show mabye a higher voltage on my next trip returning home. I am hoping for 36 or 37 volts mabye. Also is 35 volts too low to run these ?

I am not sure if I got a good deal or not. That is what I am asking. I really took it easy on them for my first run. if I went up both hills instead of one I may have damaged them. Richard Lioyd said they were good batteries. I am not so sure. What do you guys think ? Please let me know.

LC out.

10 cells in series in parallel with ten in series = 4 Ah. 10 * 3.5 = 35 volts.

PS. I am not being lazy. I have found my own answer here. I did not run them too low but if I did not walk up the first hill and got in to the throttle more I could have damaged them. Also the BMS may have a low voltage cuttoff. I will need to watch the video again.
I stlll would like to know if they will improve at least 15 to 20% after a few charging cycles. I sure hope so. Please let me know.

LC out.
 

Attachments

  • capacity.png
    capacity.png
    106.2 KB · Views: 2,503
Through slush or snow might give 50% >> 25% range
Cold weather cuts battery output also.
At 8Ah, maybe 7Ah @ 41V, 40A controller can drain at 5C+ for as low as 10 min run time.
2A charger might "low amp" cutoff at lower charged voltage ... ? Charge paired then check charged voltage, closer to 4.20V ideally.

Similar Samsung cells are effectively empty at 34V. (3.40V/cell)

Have not seen capacity profile on Sona cells.

1. On good level area in warm temperature:
Recommend you take a casual cruise at low speed on nice circle route, with volt meter installed.
On every circuit, coast to stop then, record voltage.
Pack (cells) will drop precipitately when "effectively empty" voltage is reached.

2. Did you ever get a V\A\W\Ah meter? Discharge 1 x 4Ah pack from 4.20V 3.8Ah to near "empty" voltage.

Some cells are effectively empty at 3.6V, others at 3.4V and (unlikely) some at 3.2V. (Static voltage)
Samsung packs had external terminals, on BMS, that allowed voltage check on each cell pair.
 
DrkAngel said:
2. Did you ever get a V\A\W\Ah meter? Discharge 1 x 4Ah pack from 4.20V 3.8Ah to near "empty" voltage.

Some cells are effectively empty at 3.6V, others at 3.4V and (unlikely) some at 3.2V. (Static voltage)

As an example, here's a graph of one of my 36v LG "hoverboard" battery packs drained to empty at around the manufacturer's specified discharge rate. Note the red voltage line.


Full rez link here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=223046

file.php
 
ok. That all makes sense but figure I will put my money in two more packs and a second charger. i can run two packs down and the other two back I guess or make another parallel cable and run all four in parallel. I can skip all the testing then and will get a lot more miles by not running them low.

OK. Now I got a big question. Scrap metal price for a 2012 PT cruizer is $200. The lady downstairs was scrapping it tommorow as it was towed as it would not go into gear. Either transmission or linkage. I am thinking I might know some friends that can get it running if linkage. not sure about tranney.

I would really like to convert to electric or mabye hybrid by adding electric motor. two to five years is my estimated timeline as I know it will be at least $5,000. Or mabye not.

The FX - 75 - 5 motor is 45 killowatts and controller also. Any way to hook the motor up ? If not how about the controller ? Would it work with an electric fork truck motor. A hybrid would be ideal as I can run electric in town so 20 or 30 miles would work for ellectric and run the gas for highway out of town. Please let me know as I am getting the title tommorow. Thanks.

LC out.
 
No clue about the PT cruiser. Outta my league.

As for four packs, run all four in parallel. That will put less strain on the cells and your net range should increase a bit.
 
latecurtis said:
OK. Now I got a big question. Scrap metal price for a 2012 PT cruizer is $200. The lady downstairs was scrapping it tommorow as it was towed as it would not go into gear. Either transmission or linkage. I am thinking I might know some friends that can get it running if linkage. not sure about tranney.

I would really like to convert to electric or mabye hybrid by adding electric motor. two to five years is my estimated timeline as I know it will be at least $5,000. Or mabye not.

The FX - 75 - 5 motor is 45 killowatts and controller also. Any way to hook the motor up ? If not how about the controller ? Would it work with an electric fork truck motor. A hybrid would be ideal as I can run electric in town so 20 or 30 miles would work for ellectric and run the gas for highway out of town. Please let me know as I am getting the title tommorow. Thanks.

Why would anyone scrap a 5-6 year old car, just because they couldn't get it into gear?

Converting modern cars to electric are not easy and there is no chance you could get away with < $5000. You are basically going to have to gut the entire car and make replacements for virtually anything that talked to the ECU. This can be a surprisingly high number of components. For example, many car stereos now have an "automatic volume adjustment", based on your road speed and RPM. This means the ECU will feed those two figures to the radio. What happens when no such signal arrives?

Then you think about things like computer controlled braking, traction control, etc, they all may rely on the now ironically named ECU (Engine control unit).

Also think about it. The PT cruiser came stock with a 215-230kw motor. What's it going to perform like on a 45kw motor? Assuming you could afford a 45kw controller, and batteries that won't die a fiery death being drained at 45kw.

I was thinking of doing something like this with a classic car (Anything carby driven with no ECU) with a budget of $30k + donor car. It's laughable that you think you could do this with a modern car for $5k.

I'm thinking of a 1970s Porsche 928 as the donor, but even I recognise this is a "when my kids are older" kind of thing, so we can bond over it, rather than it being a distraction.

porsche-928-buying-guide-and-review-1977-1995-4390_15666_640X470.jpg
 
My 1st eVehicle conversion is liable to be small and old.
Something too expensive to replace oem drivetrain.
MG Midget convertible?
Manual steering and brakes to simplify PS pump and vacuum (brake) problems.
Preliminary build with small motor and battery, geared for 30mph local streets and back road cruising.
Still have, possibly, 16kWh of laptop LiPo setting around.
8-16hp motor and 300A controller

Subaru Brat for hybrid conversion? Front drive gas motor w/generator, electric rear drive.
Small and lightweight and/or aerodynamic ... VW with Bradly GT body! ... ?
 
Yes. Saw a few battery builds with thousands of 18650 cells for electric car.

Dont think FX 75-5 motor will work for PT cruiser. however car = #200

electric fork truck used $2,000. Electric fork truck = 8,000 pounds

PT cruiser = approx 3,100 pounds but with all gas parts removed - approx 2,500 pounds.

fork truck gearing approx. 20 mph. PT cruizer gearing approx. 35 mph. Sounds reasonable to me.

whatever talks to any cp whatever or car stereo . HELL NO. Not letting department of motor vehiclee know anything. only forward montion is priority. :lol: I will stal an inspection sticker. :lol:

not sweating the small stuff.

LC out.
 
arrow.png

http://prntscr.com/i14r7o

Yea. Weight is everything. Friend bob. motorhead from 80s put 318 in 2,100 pound plymoth arrow stock was a four banger rice
motor. :lol:

imagine an arrow stripped of all gas parts. Around 1,800 pounds mabye. Should work fine with my 45 killowatt controller.

However the arrow is rusted to no return and been in a field for 20 years. the PT cruizer. Thats only 5 years old. :)
 
https://www.greencarreports.com/news/1078189_convert-your-car-to-a-plug-in-hybrid-all-you-need-is-3000

yes. It sounds teriffic. Also makes a ton of sense. A front wheel drive has the fuel efficient 4 cylinder gas engine for gas propel.

If I could figure how to hook up my FX 75-5 motor and controller to the rear wheels and gear it for 30 mph. It should work.
I do not have a dirt bike frame. I have a PT cruiser.

or

What I do know is if that article is true, two motors hooked to the rear wheels and produce 200 foot pounds torque each wheel would be awsome. Then a front wheel gas motor. Sounds like my PT cruiser could beat up my old dream motor from the 80s. The 426 hemi.

I could care less about putting $$$ in the gas transmission or anything else. 45 killowatts and 60 HP are produced by the FX 75-5 motor.But does it make 200 foot pounds of torque. I do not know. Please let me know. Thanks

LC out.

PS.

Why would anyone scrap a 5-6 year old car, just because they couldn't get it into gear?

It is 2005. Thought it was 2012. no. 2005 PT cruizer.

https://www.ebay.com/i/121920010881?chn=ps

Not a bad price. Guess I will need about 1,000 26650 cells or 2,000 18650 cells for this deal. :lol:

Of course that would be the rich man way. Those like me with $428 electric bill mabye look for cheapest way out. AThe best electric motor hooked to the wheels. I got a 45 killowatt controller. :mrgreen: Came with FX-75-5 motor. Just need dome strong DC motors which hook to rear wheels and control with thumb throttle inside. Thanks.

LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
Just need dome strong DC motors which hook to rear wheels and control with thumb throttle inside.
........................?


foot throttle.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top