Hyena wrote:As always, dont forget the torque arms!
I have ~5mm thick steel welded drop outs on my cheap bike and my forks and I had the displeasure of parting company with my 500w 36v GM at around 20mph
See the pic in my sig (no it's not me, but same end result )
icecube57 wrote:I just bought a ductape pack buy it now for 519 with free shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/LiFePO4-48v-20ah-BA ... 7C294%3A50
Can someone advise what size controller would be safe for this pack. 48v obviously. But how many amps. It says 40A continuous but what are the odds that it will live up to that.
icecube57 wrote:I paid the extra $50 for shipping for the 5-7 days. The seller told me and advised that i get the upgraded shipping.
The GM guy here at http://arizonaebikes.com/default.aspx Emailed me and said that they just finished testing and it will ship out Thursday. He is the only USA dealer I know of and if there are any issues you deal with him instead of GM so its a little extra comfort that i dont have to do cross seas shipping if i have problems.
I also went bike shipping again. Back in wally world with my trusty magnet to check forks. I said earlier that I had problems with my first bike pick because of the disc brake. I went to the store to see if i could remove the disk brake or possibly swap the front and rear. The rear hub doesnt have attachments for a disk and the rear calipers wont fit on the front without serious modification. The bracket for front calipers is there but they arent drilled for the hardware. I just decided to find another setup with two caliper brakes and this is my second choice for my build in the pictures below. The bike is $108 USD. What about these drop outs. Dogman do you have any input with these style forks. I think the motor should clear fine. The BD-36 is wider than the Golden Motor I think. Thats my update for now. Look forward to your comments and input.
dogman wrote:Those look like the same forks I've been riding for 2300 miles now, 25 mph over big bumps, etc. I sure did a faceplant when I put a waterbottle in the forks, but that wasn't the forks, it was the bottle mount location on the bikeframe.
There are two kinds of these cheap forks. One kind has an aluminum piece with the steel parts pressed in, as you describe. The other, cheaper one, has all steel, and it's welded. That is what I am using, and I trust it , with 600 watts. Shitty 40 mm travel so it's a dog on dirt trails, but for street bumps it is adequate. I dissected a rusted out one once to see how strong it is at the drops. The answer is plenty strong. The rest of it at the top with the steer tube is all welded so the cheapies are the strongest. I dissected one to be sure the upper and lower fork tubes wouldn't just seperate some day. They wont, without a cutting torch or grinder. There will be an amazing ammount of flex forward and back, especially when braking, that seems to be harmless.
I still don't understand how a moderately expensive fork with an 1 1/8" steel steer tube pressed into an aluminum part is stronger than a 1" steel steer tube pressed into a similar aluminum part. I would accept the argument that both are risky. I still say braking forces are far greater than motor pull. Forces on the dropouts are a different thing alltogether. I like the really cheap ones that are all steel, top to bottom.
On the subject of the dropouts. The squashed tube cheapie forks have exceptionally strong dropouts. I don't have torque arms, and belive I don't need them at 600 watts. The only issue is that a big hub motor will not fit in the space between them. Smaller hubs, such as WE and Chrystalyte 408 can fit, but the forks have to be put in a vise, and squashed some more. There is a how to thread with pics on that. Fitting hubmotors to cheap steel suspension forks, or something like that is the title. I've not touched a golden motor, but I belive there is room for one after some squashing if they are bigger diameter than a WE motor.
One additional thought, Of the cheap stuff on that mongoose bike that is close to identical to mine, Only the front crank and the tires seemed cheap and wore out on my bike. If you do have a choice at the retail store, look for the 48 tooth front sprocket, most will be 44. The 48 tooth allows pedaling at a higher speed, about 25 mph. Everything else seems to be lasting, the rear derailur is fine, brakes are fine, most likely because I tuned the bike before riding very far. From the store, it's likey to be all out of whack. And the tires seem to wear out fast. I have heard of the swingarm wearing out fast, and bottom brackets, but I'm good with 2300 miles on this one. I was figuring on a bike change every 1500 miles or so on such cheap bikes, but so far so good. Once again, here's the pic of mine. For fork closeups, see the hightekbikes.com review in that section of the forum.
Hyena wrote:That appears to be the exact bike I have my GM on! (HERE)
I too scoured the local shops looking for a aluminium frame steel forked bike with disc brakes (the wider forks with disc brake bikes are generally need to clear the GM hub.) I scored a great deal on mine as well, reduced down from $300 to $120 !
I was going to bolt on a front V brake adapter, then I looked at swapping the forks, then I tried regen braking, which worked for a few minutes but then ripped the motor from the forks - so don't try that if you're tempted! A few months later I'm still riding around with no front brakes so I'm interested to hear how you get on with that bolt on one.
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