$600 mixed ebike kit from China 350w MXUS wheel

Thanks for the mounting tip , will hit it with a file if its too tight. I will likely be modifying it to fit the spindle its going on a set of Truvitiv Giga-X-Pipe' style cranks.
Unless its adaptable will hand fit it with a dremel , file and sand paper if I make it too loose will lock in place with a dab of epoxy or jb weld.
It looks like a decent little sensor all of the models offered are nicer then the cheap eBay version I ordered previously.

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In the photo it looks to have inner sprocket teeth which gives me hop it will adapt to fit the giga-x-pipe style crank
 
motomech said:
I took the easy way out and fitted Ebike CA's two piece "snap together" disc which makes mounting a breeze.
I've been using them exclusively. Not only easy, but best made IME, and 12 magnets makes a difference.
 
tomjasz said:
motomech said:
I took the easy way out and fitted Ebike CA's two piece "snap together" disc which makes mounting a breeze.
I've been using them exclusively. Not only easy, but best made IME, and 12 magnets makes a difference.

Does it play nicely with KT controllers?
 
I don't have a KT controller, but all the discs are just magnets in a wheel, right?
It should work.
 
motomech said:
I don't have a KT controller, but all the discs are just magnets in a wheel, right?
It should work.

Its a wheel of magnets that passes by a hall sensor. So I can imagine that the particular hall sensor could matter and the number of magnets could matter. I don't know though. Which is why I'm asking.
 
wturber said:
motomech said:
I don't have a KT controller, but all the discs are just magnets in a wheel, right?
It should work.

Its a wheel of magnets that passes by a hall sensor. So I can imagine that the particular hall sensor could matter and the number of magnets could matter. I don't know though. Which is why I'm asking.

The C1 parameter in the LCD3 settings for KT controllers is for optimizing the S-V12 PAS sensor for disks with different numbers of magnets. I never bothered to play with it.
 
docw009 said:
The C1 parameter in the LCD3 settings for KT controllers is for optimizing the S-V12 PAS sensor for disks with different numbers of magnets. I never bothered to play with it.

Ahh - that makes sense now. 12 signal means 12 magnets!! Got it!

Thanks.

I really should write up a cheat/sheet for these LCDs.
 
eCue said:
It looks like a decent little sensor all of the models offered are nicer then the cheap eBay version I ordered previously.

HTB1CeWaSXXXXXX9XVXXq6xXFXXXM.jpg


In the photo it looks to have inner sprocket teeth which gives me hop it will adapt to fit the giga-x-pipe style crank

I missed this when I posted. Very interesting sensor. I like the clean look and small form!
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/v12/738588_32818649595.html
 
It is sharp looking was not looking forward to having the plain Jane ebay ring on a new build

It looks to blend in well on wturber's bike below my bikes black so it should about disappear as well.

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Its to bad they don't make it to fit GXP cranks most new bikes use them , it makes no sense :D .
 
Changing the setting from 12 to 8 or 4 magnets should increase push / torque .. Super Pas ! / ? = super fast hahaha
 
eCue said:
Its to bad they don't make it to fit GXP cranks most new bikes use them , it makes no sense :D .
Since most of these products are made primarily for the internal Chinese market first, it makes sense for htem to develop products that fit the things they're using and making. I expect most of the bikes sold there are using some variation of square taper cranks, or Ashtabula (one-piece) cranks, so these would work fine on those bikes.
 
I will update this thread first with the ekit findings and will update any other threads if its warranted.

All bike parts made it in so could finally test the kit out today

The little motor performed as expected in the end but was not without fussing around with the Phase and Hall wires . I look at it as my entry fee into ebike kits / no pain no gain.
Pain number one the Motor was stuck made a nasty sound and would not spin eventually I managed a wire sequence that worked out well enough to try a test ride.

During a break in the rain while the roads were semi dry headed across town for the test run, it was noisy screechy and frightful sounding. I didn't like it at all
I thought that cant be right so started to problem solve and found the headset was very loose so tighten that up super tight and went for test #2.

Success that was it now its quiet and hums along rather then screeches and howls along.It was crazy loud before tightening it down.
The level ground performance is good it pulls nice from near stop to 38.5knh @ 48v during speed tests so I was down 6 volts from its fresh 54.6v voltage.

40kmh may well be possible at 54.6v ?


What I learned

My advice to anyone looking for a china ebike kit is too buy more locally and ride sooner with less headaches trying to mix and match parts and connectors.. As its been a real pain dealing with this kit :)
 
The kt v12 pas sensor is working well it must be the 12 magnets as its fast to respond to both pedal stroke and when you stop pedaling. It starts or stops applying power within about 1/4 of a second.

So it did not fit the giga-pipe axle on the road cranks so used a truvativ mtb crank with isis axle. It was filed right down to fit the the axle (fsa platinum pro) If any more needed to be filed away it would of separated it was that close of a fit.

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I have the brake cut off switch wired to a handle bar switch that acts as a motor cut off for PAS cruise and throttle so when Im approaching a building etc I switch PAS off and pedal to the parking area.
 
I think it did not really fit my spindle either. Pressing it on caused the inner plastic ring to crack making it slip on the spindle and not function correctly. Once I repaired the crack/split, I simply ground away those little finger/nubs so that it would slide onto the crank spindle. I then applied a bit of epoxy to help ensure that it would not slip. So far it is working well. And I concur that response is near immediate with this sensor.
 
I will take a picture of the pas sensor when its next off as its a sight. The nibs were filed off then the ring that held the nibs was filed to within 1 mm of the case :lol: then filed the sensors thickness down as it rubbed on the crank arm. It was a Uber tight fit
 
eCue said:
I will take a picture of the pas sensor when its next off as its a sight. The nibs were filed off then the ring that held the nibs was filed to within 1 mm of the case :lol: then filed the sensors thickness down as it rubbed on the crank arm. It was a Uber tight fit

This picture shows a bit of how I wired the split back together by using those ribs as anchors. You can also see how they've been ground down a bit.
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Its made for the square axles like that I fit it on the wider isis round axle. It feels like cheap ABS plastic soft and weak not like nylons durability at all. It filed accurately using a round rat tail file I got lucky and ended up with a press fit. Its tricky in that you need to file it squarely round or it will spin off center.
 
I think I used a round wood rasp mounted to my drill press. BTW, I cracked it by forcing it onto the axle without modification. I figured those nubs were supposed to flex. I guess not that much. Oops! The device is cheap enough that I should just replace it. But I was impatient so did the wire patch-it-up thing for now.
 
I thought they flexed in as well its makes little sense to not have them flex. I dont understand how its design makes it easy to mount ? Its strange .I guess poor engineering
 
eCue said:
It is sharp looking was not looking forward to having the plain Jane ebay ring on a new build

It looks to blend in well on wturber's bike below my bikes black so it should about disappear as well.

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Its to bad they don't make it to fit GXP cranks most new bikes use them , it makes no sense :D .

WHO'S KICKSTAND?
 
I got mine for about $17 on ebay. This looks like the same one. I love it. The two legs flip open so that the bike stands on its own. You don't have to find something to lean it against. I'm still trying to figure out a simple answer to front wheel flop though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BV-Bicycle-Black-Adjustable-Foldable-Double-Leg-Kickstand-Storage-/122512560811?hash=item1c865152ab

Funny. I just noticed that listing says, "Not for use on e-bikes." I have no idea why not.
 
They have some thick dual ones in Europe you can find them on ebay.uk etc some go for $150 so it pays to price shop at different sites.
I thought of cutting the dual stands legs down to keep the wheels on the ground. Not sure how well it would support the bike after though.
 
wturber said:
I'm still trying to figure out a simple answer to front wheel flop though.

My method might not be what you're after, but it is very simple.

I drilled a 1/4" hole thru the center of the headtube (between the toptube and downtube joins) and steerer, and used a 1/4" cotterless pin (with springloaded ball bearing at the tip) on a ring with a small steel cord loop to tie it to the bike there at the headtube.
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SB Cruiser has been this way for (I think) about a year, and has much more stress on the steerer and headtube from braking than the average bike, and it hasn't had any failures from this. Doesnt' guarantee there couldn't be one, but I'd call it safe enough to do on any of my creations, and I plan to do it on the rest of them as I build or rebuild them. :)
Some info on it is here
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=91988&p=1341551&hilit=cotter*#p1341551

Also documented there are parking brakes, which should also work.



Another method is to add a spring from somewhere on the downtube to somewhere on the fork, to hold it centered via tension. There's a number of recumbents that I've seen pictures of with this (easy tour & clones come to mind); the first ones I saw were shown to me here on the forum. I used this method for a while on SBC, with a spring from a screen door, and it worked well enough, and didn't affect the steering. But it wouldn't have prevented wheel flop on a leaning bike completely--if the bike doesn't lean (like with a 2-leg stand) then it'd probably work fine.

It's just a little more complicated to setup in the first place, to make / find mounting points, and then get the right spring for length and tension.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1045514&hilit=spring+tiller#p1045514
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This fork stabilizer is made for touring bikes for loading and unloading and securing on the road.looks a little light weight but it may well be enough it said its for bikes with cargo bags.

Looks sort of light duty at the joint.

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Its dirt cheap and looks weak but I like the approach this ad is for the small tube fit , keep looking for the bigger tube fit if your interested , its on ebay https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-VELO-Or...409844?hash=item2823afb634:g:m3UAAOSwl2haAzMw

A eye bolt and bungee might work better ..
 
wturber said:
I got mine for about $17 on ebay. This looks like the same one. I love it. The two legs flip open so that the bike stands on its own. You don't have to find something to lean it against. I'm still trying to figure out a simple answer to front wheel flop though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BV-Bicycle-Black-Adjustable-Foldable-Double-Leg-Kickstand-Storage-/122512560811?hash=item1c865152ab

Funny. I just noticed that listing says, "Not for use on e-bikes." I have no idea why not.

Weight likely...
 
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