'98 Quintana Roo panamint mxus xf07 350w fr hub

For sure man , I dont want to have a spin out. I carry a wrench in my day pack at all times for the wheels they both use use lug nuts and both want to spin in the drop outs by design. I have them so tight now when I check them with the wrench it hurts my hand :D
 
Yeah, they will loosen a couple of times when new. Every time I have the wheel off, I apply lot''s of Blue Loctite w/out cleaning the old locker off. Eventually, it becomes sort of a paste that holds well.
 
Loctight is a great idea also a torque wrench they want 450 to 550 ft.lbs.
I'm going to look into loctight versions I have red on hand
I forgot to use a torque wrench but did use a 12 in. wrench and set it stupid tight
almost too tight. I fear i may of stretched the nut
 
I think there is a slight interference fit between the axle and the nut, or maybe that's just Chinese machining tolerances :roll:
Once they have been re-torqued several times, they will stay put w/out over-tightening.
Loctite is a funny thing. First off, the brand name has become synonymous w/ all threadlockers, like Frisbee. W/ the Loctite brand is red is permanent and the blue is semi-perm. W/ some other brands, it's reversed :roll:
The stuff is like liquid gold and I wish I had invented it.
I usually run out of Blue half way though the job and finish w/ the red, it's not like the perm. is so strong that one can't loosen it.
I use it on everything ebike whl. related, torque arm hardware, disc mounting screws, etc.
 
Fresh off the video press is proving day for the mxus 350w

[youtube]yDSVsFPouak[/youtube]


below: The eBike and its Aero

[youtube]J2dLRPNnDFY[/youtube]
 
These two video clip shows the winds behavior at bicycle speeds

[youtube]ZcvFVPweBDQ[/youtube]

[youtube]WTKwA9hrV_Y[/youtube]
 
Today I reused the ebike.ca motor calculator for the umpteenth time only this time paying special attention to the rpm box and found the xf07 makes 320 rpm at 40 kph this highly suggests the motor Im running is the 320 rpm version.
Im going to see what rpm specs are available. I know 290 is around it makes more sense then a 260. I think I saw a 320 rpm model , I'll check and see *if* its out there.

I specifically asked the seller for a fast one .. 8) so its likely the highest rpm one Im thinking well It makes sense that it would be.


I checked the same seller has the 290 350 and 360 rpm versions.
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/36V-48V-250W-High-Speed-Brushless-Gear-Hub-Motor-E-bike-Motor-Front-Wheel-Drive-MXUS/1880894600.html

290 rpm = 36 kph
320 rpm = 40 Kph
350 rpm = 43.5 kph
360 rpm = 45 kph
 
I see so they will over spin the rpm winding at higher volts.

In that case its likely i have the 290 rpm version ? as CC sells it.

This 36v model did not advertise its rpm.


Some math would be nice to figure it out :?
 
I think I can figure it out by testing the motors unloaded speed @ 36v (42v?) the motors rated voltage against the Motor simulators speed/rpm numbers.

Still waiting for a few 36v chargers to arrive when they do I will lift the wheel and see what it does. 32kmh = 260 rpm (using the calculator)

Or a speed test / ?
 
Dude, you can kept playing w/ the numbers and make it anything you want to, but I'm telling you, it's a 260 rpm @ 36 Volts motor.
In the first place, it's on the stickers on the motor. The 36V sticker means it's a 36 V rated motor. The 26 Inch sticker means it's a mid-speed motor for use in that size wheel. All the minis and most hub motors are labeled that way. If it was a high-speed motor, the sticker would say 20", for a 20 inch wheel.
I can also tell from your vid. I've had 328 rpm @ 36 Volt Q100's and they take forever to get thru the mid-range(where are you, Canada? You should fill out your profile).
What motor did you use in the sim?
Tell you what, use the Outrider stand. and Fast in a double sim w/ the Ezee 48V battery and the Infineon 20 Amper(The Outrider is a MXUS clone that was a poor performer, but it sims exactly like the MXUS 260).
Now look at the Stand., is that not your bike?
Now look at the Fast, WOW, supermotor!
But not so fast.
When Justin revised the sim, something went wrong w/ the high-speed mini results. Look down at the motor Amps in Electrical. 25 Amps w/ a 20 Amp controller? I don't think so.
Now replace the Infineon w/ a 12 Amp custom controller.
That's how it looked on the old sim and that is how it is in the real world. The motor becomes severely Current limited, as opposed to the 260 which is rpm limited. See how the power plot on the Fast extends way out into unused territory with a shape like a tabletop mesa. That's why only bionic road race types can use the 328 in a big wheel. They have the leg strenght to ride right on top of that mesa extending their road speed out into the high 20's mph. The downside to this type of system is, the controller tries to put out max Amps most of the time, overheating it. And hills? Forget it.
Be thankful the vendor was smart enough to send you the mid-speed version. The right version mini for 95% of riders.
 
That fast wind Outrider sure is quick :D especially for a clone :D
Unlikely but I like the result as well :D


I use the mxus xfo7 motor sim under the other option at the bottom of the list.
It maxes the xfo7 out at 35.6 @ 52v using the 20a controller with 16AH 52v battery as options 220 lbs tuck.

I set my location next to the avatar I did set a profile although its has no more information then my local .. :arrow:

Im going to look for a new stretch of pavement with constant flat surface as the road im on now appears to have waves.. its hard to be precise with waves.
 
Im not talking rpm's at this point Im talking performance , I get that 26 inch wheels use a 260 wound motor to achieve 32k. Many are rated at 32km at 36v I see that in the ads. When I test my motor at 36 /38v I will know. Its highly likely it does 32k , I get it.
 
My angle :) is I don't want to delude myself with inaccurate high speed numbers that make me happy :D

I don't see how my motor goes faster then the simulators motor so I want to find a flatter and smoother road to run on to be sure Im not peaking the speedo on a 1 degree slopne.

1 degree is 10 inches over a 100 foot length so its entirely possible
 
eCue said:
I want to find a flatter and smoother road to run on to be sure Im not peaking the speedo on a 1 degree slope

Do timing runs in both directions and average; slopes (and head/tail winds) will cancel.
 
I have not taken averages but do see speed variation on the way back.

The road im on now front half is good the back half has crackled rough pavement but is nice and straight. The roads are industrial roads used to truck wood chips all day / night. The back 1km has not been paved in years and years the front 1k was just a few years a go.

I can find a better straighter road out by the airport.
So will eride out to it on the next nice day and try some back and forth runs on a flatter smoother road.
Also Im bored of running on the industrial road time for a change :lol:

On to smoother flatter ground.
 
In the beginning I was thinking would be fine on the ebike without brake cut off levers , well not anymore after yesterdays incident. I think I have it on film too.

In a turn yesterday a car headed toward a stop sign moved close to the center line after i had committed to the corner so I apply the front brake hoping to suck the front wheel in but ended up fighting the motors centrifugal force and the corners inertia at the same time. Now I know how dangerous running without cutoffs can be I promptly ordered a set of brake cut off switches.

This set can be found on eBay under the title ~ Risunmotor Universal Hydraulic or Mechanical Brake Sensors ~ for $22 ca.

s-l1600.jpg
 
Back
Top