Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

What knd of resistance values are people getting displayed on the stats page?

I was using multistar lipo and was getting and average of 30mohm.
Now with 18650 samsung 30Q i get from 50 to 70 (brand new cells), does this sound ok?
 
brumbrum said:
What knd of resistance values are people getting displayed on the stats page?

I was using multistar lipo and was getting and average of 30mohm.
Now with 18650 samsung 30Q i get from 50 to 70 (brand new cells), does this sound ok?

Sounds ok to me, depends on the configuration, but there is no need to even think about that..

Edit: initial internal impedance of charged 30q is 26mOhm so 20s10p should be 52mOhm charged at 20-25°C if I am right.
 
depends also alot what youre doing between the series.
i started with normal 0,15mm nickel (no strips, full battery width sheets) and measured near twice resistance without copper "bars" (stripped copper wires soldered between "Series".
200amps, 22s, 17,8KW Peak of Fun =) ....
 
Merlin said:
depends also alot what youre doing between the series.
i started with normal 0,15mm nickel (no strips, full battery width sheets) and measured near twice resistance without copper "bars" (stripped copper wires soldered between "Series".
200amps, 22s, 17,8KW Peak of Fun =) ....

I've built 5 modules like this, each copper bar is 2mm
95n5sl.jpg


Each module is series connected with 8awg silicone wire..
20as29x.jpg


I've got to say that at present i am a little disappointed with my samsung 30Q cell performance,, in comparison that is with multistar lipo. It seems i did the math wrong, or in reality did not realise there would be such a big difference in perfrmance between the two chemistries. Ive gone with 10% less ah but get 20% less useful wh. :cry:
 
brumbrum said:
I've got to say that at present i am a little disappointed with my samsung 30Q cell performance,, in comparison that is with multistar lipo. It seems i did the math wrong, or in reality did not realise there would be such a big difference in perfrmance between the two chemistries. Ive gone with 10% less ah but get 20% less useful wh. :cry:

Your nickel if 0.15 is 12mm2(x2) and copper 8mm2. Nickel needs 4x thickness than copper to be equal.

Personally not my taste but very well designed pack. You can add paralel easily if it fits your bike.

Expect way better performance at hot summer days, 40°C from full charge.
 
Im thinking about using my old 5 x 16Ah Multistar 4s2p Lipos to add them on my current 300 Samsung 30Q Cell pack to get some higher voltage and to drain less amper from every cell. Of course I could charge all of them only to 4 volt to not reach over 96 volt on my Max-E Adaptto, but it could possibly add some more range on it + less voltage drop on all cells together + higher end speed (which I actually doen´t even need). In the end it would be a 20s15p 30Q pack + 4s10p 16Ah Multistar LiPo Pack (@4s = 65Amps more + 14,4volts more)... :mrgreen:

Is that a good idea? :lol:
 
Merlin said:
i could start explain in ...at least a handfull of problems..

but its simple:

NO !!!!


:mrgreen:
damn merlin, why you had to spoil it for everyone?
I was really looking forward to seeing the results.... :lol:
 
DasDouble said:
In the end it would be a 20s15p 30Q pack + 4s10p 16Ah Multistar LiPo Pack (@4s = 65Amps more + 14,4volts more)... :mrgreen:

Is that a good idea? :lol:

Your battery has 45Ah
10p of 16Ah multistars would be 160Ah

PS: 3p would be enough :lol:
 
From reading Dasdouble's other thread he is getting around a 11v sag on his 20s 30Q pack, so there is something wrong with his 300 cell pack.

Who on here agrees that he needs to take some photos of this pack for us to help fix it?

He has obviously spent a lot of money on the cells and it seems there is a problem with connections/resistance.

@Dasdouble, please remove battery pack and open up and take some photos for us. :D
 
maybe he bought Ni plated steel strips to weld with by mistake.

+1, a 15p 30q pack should only have a couple volts sag at full noise.
 
Still finding the final best tune settings, but my Midi-E is already hitting nearly 12KW as posted over in the Futr owners thread:
DSC_4493.jpg

DSC_4508.jpg


The Midi-E is running the latest unlocked firmware, and I'm pushing 160A batt, 300A phase through a 4T MXUS 3K with FF and hubsinks. It lifts the front wheel all the way up to 30kph and is one hell of a ride. The controller is secured to the frame with thermal padding and covered in heat-sinks as per my previous Mini-E and is barely getting warm.
DSC_4499.jpg


I won't push things any further as my 30Ah 18S LiPo probably can't take it and I've got 2 x 80A breakers in-line with it. Not that I need to go any higher...I was hoping for 10KW, and getting nearly 12 is more than enough for this beast.

Cheers
 
madin88 said:
DasDouble said:
In the end it would be a 20s15p 30Q pack + 4s10p 16Ah Multistar LiPo Pack (@4s = 65Amps more + 14,4volts more)... :mrgreen:

Is that a good idea? :lol:

Your battery has 45Ah
10p of 16Ah multistars would be 160Ah

PS: 3p would be enough :lol:

I understand, as long as you connect them in parallel it could be a problem because they would want to balance each other out. But connecting them in series whould be no problem actually.. right? I just don´t see the problem haha^^ :?:
 
ridethelightning said:
maybe he bought Ni plated steel strips to weld with by mistake.

+1, a 15p 30q pack should only have a couple volts sag at full noise.

No I didn´t - have all ordered from nkon. I guess my voltage sag problem occurses because of my poor series-connection. I will add some more material to that when I have some more time.. :roll:
 
Merlin said:
Yea thought that first but were on the sphere... :mrgreen:
If we can't help.... Let's save his life and the roof over his head :p

I'll hope he come back to explain why 20s aren't enough =)

Hahah well thanks for the "short" answer Merlin:lol: ..
I just have these 5 LiPos left here under my desk and I thought they get bored there a little bit.. :mrgreen:
Also it would be a potential of 22 Kilometers more = 70Kilometers wide open throttle :twisted: :pancake:
 
hows your idea to watch/monitor the different discharge of the cells?
do ou have adaptto bms or another "inside" battery?
how do you want to charge the "big battery"?


do you have pics from your own battery build?
 
Merlin said:
hows your idea to watch/monitor the different discharge of the cells?
do ou have adaptto bms or another "inside" battery?
how do you want to charge the "big battery"?


do you have pics from your own battery build?

-With my Adaptto BMS. You can plug some more inside then only just 5 x 5pin connectors. I guess like 7 or so.
-Adaptt BMS
-I guess just like normal 20s one? :lol: I mean tha would not make so much difference.. Right?
 
i understand...but:

300cells samsung 20s15p
now you want to put (minimum 1 4s16Ah Lipo to your pack to have more power and speed...to compensate your weak 18650pack)

i struggle now to be honest to you because its YOU....the crazy kid exploring hipower ebike world ^^

be warned if you do anything other then iam writing below.

mixing different cells ...no matter if we talk about chemistry OR age. is not a good idea.
BUT you can do it.
early ebike batteries with 18650 where made of a ugly mix of old laptop cells.

if you plug 3 of your 4S Lipos parallel TO your 18650 pack. N E V E R charge them as a 24s pack.
Internal resistance is worlds apart (!!!)

if you setup the BMS of your Adaptto properly it prevents you burning down your house.
as i dont know any conditions about your cells i can only say that one of them will run away on charging as a 24s pack.
(the weaker ones)
they will hit your PROPERLY setup BMS settings to prevent overcharging. Lets say 4.25v.
Charging will slow down, stop and start again while BMS will try to burn down the away running cells.
BMS is to weak for that.
a full charge may take week(s)

in SHORT: DONT CHARGE it as a Single 24s pack.

(still not sure to submit my post.... :roll: )

- build your wire harness to add your 4s3P Multistar pack (doh, so much work for crap....)
- charge your samsung 20s pack to 4,0v cell voltage -> ~80v.
- charge your Multistar 4s3P to 50% (3.85v) -> 15,4v
(check every single brick with a voltage checker or multimeter that all cells are same voltage!)
- connect them in SERIES.---->>>> 95,4VOLT now.
- double or tripple check all wire connections. be sure your fuses are on the right place INCL the Multistars now(!)

if you have an unlocked firmware installed on your adaptto it may blow on full throttle on your testride.(Voltage spikes)
if you have an locked firmware, it should work. the controller limits power if voltage is to high.
(i think you will not hit a limit because your weak cell cereal)

go out, enjoy the ride, watch temperatures, and cell voltages.
be sure your setup BMS correct to prevent low voltage on any cell.
face it you probably blow your rare controller.

this is just experimental. think over the work needed.....and risking your stuff for a experiment only.

if everything went well.....charge the multistars as single bricks with a RC charger (i hope you have one)
and your samsung pack as you did all time before experiment.
 
Ball lightning. up until now scientists have struggled to explain the phenomenon, usually described as a ball of fire or lightning traveling horizontally at high speed... 8)
 
I don't get it, a 15p 30Q pack can easy deliver 200Amps if built CORRECTLY. So a perfect match for the Max-e. Why make a mess and mix in lipo?
But we know that 90% of ppl build em wrong INCLUDING many known manufactures.
The best suggestion here is while its winter time, tear the pack and build it the right way.

Sure you can connect them in series to get 100V but be careful with the throttle, controller can pop due to back EMF. So while driving at full speed, when releasing the throttle, controller can see a higher voltage than the battery voltage and if it goes way above 100V the fets might not survive.
 
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