Power keeps shutting down

I have this problem:

Last week, I was riding my 48 volt 1000 watt ebike up a bridge when the motor shut down. The throttle lights, lamp and horn worked. Just the motor wouldn't operate. The green phase wire was hot. So I went home and with a tester saw that all three halls blew out. So I replaced them and the controller. I went for a ride yesterday and got in about maybe 10 miles or so when all of a sudden, the same problem happened. Lights and horn work, but not the motor. Checked the halls with a tester, all good. However, tne wheel would not turn smoothly. When I disconnected the green phase wire, the wheel turns smoothly. When I reconnect it, it turns rough. Please help! I already sunk $275 into repairs and cannot afford more! What's going on here?

Notes: battery is about 18 months old. Motor NEVER had this kind of issue previously. Nor did controllers. And this was a new controller from the shop.

Gday mate, sounds like a blown mosfet in the controller. Unfortunately I don't have the technical knowledge to guess why it failed the first time.

327ren said:

However, tne wheel would not turn smoothly. When I disconnected the green phase wire, the wheel turns smoothly. When I reconnect it, it turns rough. Please help! I already sunk $275 into repairs and cannot afford more! What's going on here?

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Yep, blown FET. If you are lucky it was just a bad part and replacing it will solve the problem. That's not super likely though.

Hey guys thanks for the replies. There’s another fact I forgot to mention: the 48 volt battery has a reading of 56 volts when fully charged.

327ren said:

Hey guys thanks for the replies. There’s another fact I forgot to mention: the 48 volt battery has a reading of 56 volts when fully charged.

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That's common (and expected.) 48 volts is nominal voltage, not max (or min) voltage.

Thanks is a 30 amp controller too little for 48v 1000 w?

I'm thinking that you don't blow all three halls at once without some sort of short in the system. I guess that is why you replaced the controller. You can't rule out a short between motor and controller in the wire harness/connectors/axle, and from your brief description, I'm not sure what all was tested.

Secondly, replacing the controller raises the prospect of mismatched hall/phase combinations. Even controllers of the same manufacturer can have different color wires for the phases and halls. There is info in the ES Wiki for how to test these. I at the very least would make sure there wasn't an insane amp draw while running the wheel unloaded after swapping controllers.

30A at 48V will give around 1500W. Most 1000W motors can handle this, but it might be hard on the battery depending on capacity and C rate. Some systems allow programming of lower amps through the LCD interface.

Thanks for the reply. The second controller that was blown out didn’t take the hall sensors with it like the first one. Only the green phase cable. This is a new problem I never had before with this reliable equipment. It’s almost as if the motor is sending back the current. Motor worked fine beforehand.

So I came back from the shop. They refused to do a refund for the blown controller and refused to do a warranty repair for free, asking me to pay another $20 after I already spent 95 on both the installation and new controller and also told me that the charger says 60 volts and not 48 volts and that was the problem