E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

2.6kwh (usable)
Sprocket custom made (lasercut)
Kart sprockets end on 102T.
This is made from steel. So I doesn't need to be that thick.
It's only 80g more weight then stock 94T from lmx.

Now I have the 14T in front and same Acceleration as before :D

Noise is a bit less...
That bit what makes it acceptable for your ears. :p
 
I solved my rear tyre clearance issue...just had to drop the pressure. :lol: :roll:
20PSI in the rear and it clears fine.

Oh and my front tubeless problems solved themselves kind of...I just had to keep inflating it for a few days and it eventually sealed itself. :D

I dropped another nut down into the bottom of the frame. Man it's a real PITA to get anything out of there! Ended up using a magnet to fish it out. :lol:

What is the connector for the throttle called? And can we know the pin-out?
I would like to order another so I can wire up a different throttle.

Cheers
 
bzhwindtalker said:
We tested bigger (80mm) motors before.
Yes they can handle more amps/torque at low rpm, but at the expense of weight and loss of efficiency.
The larger motor with more torque could spin at lower RPM for same power output, so in theory it should be possible to keep Efficiency at least on same or higher level.
Was the kV lower, or similar?
Of course if you would compare no-load losses of both motors spining at same RPM, the 60mm version would have 25% less consumption, but if you adjust everything (lower kV motor with larger sprocket, geared for similar top speed), then this setup should be better.
We are working on a project with belt drive for a customer, we will see how it handles the torque.
For the LMX 64? A street version?

If you use a modern belt with carbon or aramid tesile cords and design it properly, it should handle the torque without any problems.
I have designed a belt drive for my own custom e-moped and it works very well (even with the drive pulley beeing too small) and for another well known bike i have also designed a belt conversion kit.
The most important thing is the tooth count of the drive pulley which should be as high as possible, or at least not lower as a given number.

hm, but when looking on your bikes i see the drive train is not placed in the pivot of the swing, i wonder how you solve this?
 
Been working hard on this bike this week. Now it's pretty much done, apart from the battery.

DSC_5614.JPG

Anyone know a magic way to get those cells assembled into a battery ;)

These are 3.5AH Sanyo GA cells good for about 10A (real world 6A) each, so not the best fit for this application, but I figure I will use them to build this first pack, try and not run it too hard, then build another with higher drain cells soon for full power. Then I can have this pack as a backup/long range extender pack.

Anyone know about that throttle connector type and pin-out?

Cheers
 
So I threw a battery in my backpack and had my first blast.

This thing ROCKS!
I love how I can get the same level of acceleration as other hub motor bikes with half the power. The pedal assist also feels really good and seems to be dialled in nicely out of the box...although knowing me I will tweak it further.
The highest power mode was a bit disappointing though, so I bumped it up to 200A phase, 75A Battery and it feels much more lively now. 8) With the battery on my back the front wheel lifts very easily so need to be careful with that one. :shock:

A few things I noticed and didn't like though...
The motor hesitates from a standstill, and if the throttle is turned too quickly the halls/phases don't line up and the motor has a real hard time till the throttle is let off and back on again. i.e. it sounds like it switches from square wave to sine wave or something but if there is too much amps the back emf confuses it? Anyway, does anyone know a way to reduce or eliminate this without sacrificing performance?

The other thing I noticed is the lag when letting off the pedals or throttle is sometimes quite dangerous. I think I really need some brake cut-off switches. Previously I've used some micro switches zip tied under the lever, but I don't want something so hideous on this bike. Does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, but good quality brake cut-off switch compatible with hydraulic disc brakes?

Cheers
 
About the motor, can you check if it is on FOC mode under motor parameters?
For the delay, best is to have a pedalling speed gear that has higher spinning rate. then the delay is shorter.
There is also the possibility to reduce the delay in the settings, but then the pedalling at low rpm/power is not as smooth.

Adam
 
Thanks Adam.

Yes, already had a look in the settings and it is in FOC mode. Should I be able to pin the throttle from 0 rpm and have it just work every time, or is it normal for it to need some forward motion first?

Were you also able to let me know about the throttle connector type/pin-out please?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
The other thing I noticed is the lag when letting off the pedals or throttle is sometimes quite dangerous. I think I really need some brake cut-off switches. Previously I've used some micro switches zip tied under the lever, but I don't want something so hideous on this bike. Does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, but good quality brake cut-off switch compatible with hydraulic disc brakes?

What settings do you have on throttle ramp up / ramp down (A/sec)?
This could solve the lag if you release the throttle but i don't know about PAS.

I am using the Magura hydraulic switches on my Shimano Saint (so they are not just compatible with Magura brake Systems) and they work very well.

https://www.bike-components.de/en/M...r-E-Bike-HS-Rim-Brakes-MT-Disc-Brakes-p60537/
 
Thanks Madin.

I've ordered a couple of those now and think that will solve my problems in that regard.

I haven't managed to look yet, but will check those settings when I get a chance. Thanks for the suggestion!

Cheburator said:
How do you like the sound it makes?
It's not terrible, but I'm also not super keen to just live with it as is.
I plan to design and 3D print a cover to over the top of the existing alu cover and will stick Dynamat to the inside of it. I think if it's designed well with the only holes being for the chain it should reduce noise considerably. Watch this space. :)

Cheers
 
lmx won first place e-mtb in belgium , rider was a mtb champ.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbqlbuieWAc&feature=share&fbclid=IwAR3E5RqvcG10i3QZIPsQkFXPXCWFIj_lhU3KD4lf0YySInqRRic6N-i8QTc
 
croydon said:
lmx won first place e-mtb in belgium , rider was a mtb champ.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbqlbuieWAc&feature=share&fbclid=IwAR3E5RqvcG10i3QZIPsQkFXPXCWFIj_lhU3KD4lf0YySInqRRic6N-i8QTc

Those poor guys on 250w bikes.

I wonder what the result would be if all the bikes were limited to 250w?
Also looks very smooth otherwise the hub bike wouldhave gotten destroyed.
 
So I managed to destroy my throttle trying to modify it to fit a half grip.

I have another thumb throttle which I would prefer to use anyway, however the signal is reversed. i.e. it goes from 4.5V down to 0.8V when the throttle is turned instead of the 1V to 4.5V like normal throttles and the stock throttle.

Does anyone know if the Nucular controller can be setup to accept a reverse signal throttle like this?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
So I threw a battery in my backpack and had my first blast.

This thing ROCKS!
I love how I can get the same level of acceleration as other hub motor bikes with half the power. The pedal assist also feels really good and seems to be dialled in nicely out of the box...although knowing me I will tweak it further.
The highest power mode was a bit disappointing though, so I bumped it up to 200A phase, 75A Battery and it feels much more lively now. 8) With the battery on my back the front wheel lifts very easily so need to be careful with that one. :shock:

A few things I noticed and didn't like though...
The motor hesitates from a standstill, and if the throttle is turned too quickly the halls/phases don't line up and the motor has a real hard time till the throttle is let off and back on again. i.e. it sounds like it switches from square wave to sine wave or something but if there is too much amps the back emf confuses it? Anyway, does anyone know a way to reduce or eliminate this without sacrificing performance?

The other thing I noticed is the lag when letting off the pedals or throttle is sometimes quite dangerous. I think I really need some brake cut-off switches. Previously I've used some micro switches zip tied under the lever, but I don't want something so hideous on this bike. Does anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, but good quality brake cut-off switch compatible with hydraulic disc brakes?

Cheers

How did you do that? I bumped it up to 200A phase, 75A Battery. Is that with the standard battery? Which setting do I have to change? Is there a way to save the original configuration to a PC first? I have no idea about this controller. Is there a method to lock it into mode 1 and only get to mode 2&3 if a password is used.
 
Joe said:
How did you do that? I bumped it up to 200A phase, 75A Battery. Is that with the standard battery? Which setting do I have to change? Is there a way to save the original configuration to a PC first? I have no idea about this controller. Is there a method to lock it into mode 1 and only get to mode 2&3 if a password is used.
This was with a backpack battery. It's the battery I normally use in my Stealth Fighter and it's 14S14P so massive, heavy and not ideal for this bike, but can easily output up to 125A if I wanted.

I similarly don't know much about this controller...anyone know about the throttle signal...can it be reversed?

Cheers
 
Joe said:
I have no idea about this controller. Is there a method to lock it into mode 1 and only get to mode 2&3 if a password is used.

Cowardlyduck said:
I similarly don't know much about this controller...anyone know about the throttle signal...can it be reversed?

I believe you better ask at this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75494&start=700
Creators of this controller often answer there.
 
Hello,

I've noticed that my pas sensor is cutting out from time to time. I've tried pedaling harder to see if it's torque related but it didn't do any difference. If I blip the throttle it resumes and works as it should.

I've read on Facebook that a new pedal arm might solve the issue? Somehow it's interfering with the magnetic disc for the pas sensor?please correct me if I'm wrong. I'd like a solution to this problem.

LMX / Adam, can you please provide support.

Regards hkj
 
Cheburator said:
I believe you better ask at this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=75494&start=700
Creators of this controller often answer there.
Thanks for this suggestion.

I did ask and the answer was that it the setting wasn't implemented due to safety concerns....so today I pulled apart the new throttle and reversed the magnet to make it work normally. Tested and works great. :)

Next on the todo list (besides my battery which is a work-in-progress) is the 3D printed front sprocket cover.
After lots of prototypes (and a whole roll of PLA), I finally have something that fit's nicely:
LMX64 Cover.JPG

This is an earlier prototype...I ended up making the top surface flat so it could be easily printed upside down.
DSC_5651.JPG

The other thing to note is the metal cover is still there, underneath this cover as can be seen in this very early prototype:
DSC_5643.JPG

My latest version is printed using PETG, not PLA. I think PLA might work, but it softens when hot so I'm not sure how it would handle being bolted near a hot motor where as PETG prints at 250C and can take a bit more heat without warping. ABS or nylon would probably be ideal, but I haven't got any experience printing with that and not sure my printer can do it.

I will do some testing to make sure it doesn't rub the chain, then test the noise levels with/without it, then add some dynamat as well. Stay tuned! :p

Cheers
 
Hey, I have this weird problem sometimes when I turn on the bike throttle and pedal assist won't do anything unless I push pedals really hard, throttle activates. Throttle can't be turnt off at this point unless I step on pedals with my whole weight, throttle stops (when I sit its full on the gas without actually twisting the throttle) torque sensor also doesnt seem to work when this happens. Any tips?
(Ive already tried resetting to factory settings and tightening all nuts and bolts) thanks in advance :)
 
Hello, please send me a message about it on the contact email.

It could be the crank arm rubbing against the chainring spider and causing improper torque measurement. We asked the torque sensor supplier about this issue and their answer was "we did not check it".
Since we noticed this issue we machined the right crank arms for more clearance. Can you send me a picture of the right crank/spider interface?

With best regards, Adam
 
bzhwindtalker said:
bzhwindtalker said:
We are working on a project with belt drive for a customer, we will see how it handles the torque.
For the LMX 64? A street version?

No a 4 wheeler with two motors, custom stuff

You should have a look at this : The company is dead, it had two motors / controllers (sevcon, one master one slave with "differnetial fonctions"). A lighter version of this could be very cool... I have more info if you are interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MGf8uJyVW0
 
Hey, I just wanted to ask if if the Motor on the grey LMX64 prototype is a 30mm Motor and if it would be a good Upgrade to fit in the new 60mm Motor (if it fits)? I read it has better efficiency and could handle up to 10kw peak.
 
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