E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

What year is your bike Karlj? My 2013 has 3 bolts up there, and 2 down at the bottom, 5 total.

I think Stealth has beefed up that support on later bikes.
 
Blatant copycat at a light

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Theodore Voltaire said:
What year is your bike Karlj? My 2013 has 3 bolts up there, and 2 down at the bottom, 5 total.

I think Stealth has beefed up that support on later bikes.

Funny thing was a mates future Beta had the same failure and its a 3 year old bike :(
 
Winning stealth to the rescue, no hassles and one is in the mail to me today!

The old one will go back for repair.

This is why stealth is a win for me, if I bought a cheap Chinese bike there would be no such joy.
 
KarlJ said:
Long ride plans yesterday ruined by what appears to be poor quality manufacturing and poor designF5C811D5-2F60-441F-8004-6F383EDBADA5.jpeg

Seat assembly failure at the two attach points. Bike has 5260kms on the dial as total 2770 of which are mine.

Holes drilled within 1.25d of the edge of the material, bolts too short, no washers used on Allen key (outside) side. Where the material is folded into the square only tack welds at the ends vs fillet two edges and grind back.

I’m hoping despite me not being the first owner that Stealth will repair it. After all this is 100% manufacturing and design flaw, not caused by abuse or misuse.
glad Stealth hooked you up. When I broke mine, Stealth promptly replaced it. Looking at the bottom pic, it looks like one of your cracks is old and has rust on it. Looks like it finally let go over time? Did you notice any cracks before this?
 

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Rix said:
glad Stealth hooked you up. When I broke mine, Stealth promptly replaced it. Looking at the bottom pic, it looks like one of your cracks is old and has rust on it. Looks like it finally let go over time? Did you notice any cracks before this?

I figured out where the squeaking / creaking was coming from i guess that was the crack working its magic, in the process had tightened every bolt on the frame and lubed the rear shock bolts.

Christmas present to self from Wiggle.... Brooks saddle = no more ass hatchet for me Rix :lol:

Next mod streamers from the handlebars!
 

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After building and enjoying my LMX 64 for a while now it's finally time I focus on rebuilding my Fighter.
All the parts are now ready and I've carbon wrapped my side panels and rear mud guard also.


As a comparison the LMX 64 is much lighter and better at hill climbing than my Fighter, but lacks the range and silence my Fighter has. I might still end up selling my Fighter as the LMX 64 can really do it all that much better and with a spare battery in a backpack can have almost as much range. LMX is also trying to address the noise with a belt drive so I have hope that the 64 might replace my Fighter moving forward.
We'll see though as I still really miss the complete silence of the Fighter (which the LMX will never achieve) and realistically I can't match the full 200km+ range of my Fighter, so I may end up keeping both.

I paid Stealth to replace the rear swing-arm bearings ($20 each), however one of them feels really rough and stiff. I tried installing the rear pivot bolt and it moves easily and feels fine. Does anyone know if those bearings really matter that much and should I bother asking Stealth to replace or it doesn't really matter?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I paid Stealth to replace the rear swing-arm bearings ($20 each), however one of them feels really rough and stiff. I tried installing the rear pivot bolt and it moves easily and feels fine. Does anyone know if those bearings really matter that much and should I bother asking Stealth to replace or it doesn't really matter?

Cheers

only operating through a very narrow range of what 30degrees hence it could be almost ceased and you wouldnt notice it as the lever is huge.

put the bike back together!
 
FL bomber said:
What's the easiest way to replace the rivet nuts on battery compartment? Would a small dab of J-B weld work, to stop them from spinning. Also need a few button head bolts.. I know they are M6 but are they fine threaded and what length to order?
st35326... That Excel rim setup looks impressive.
That's a 17in rim.. what size spokes?

drill them out and re-apply... a rivnut gun can be had for ~$30 for a 'good enough' one, and would hold better than a JB job (ask me how i know ;) )
Just standard stainless button heads should be fine, pitch isn't anything special (metric, 0.5 at a guess? my off the shelf m6 bolts fit fine, 10mm long)
 
Much better!
3 bolts improves the load sharing and welds all the way way along the joins.
Winning!
 

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Cowardlyduck said:
After building and enjoying my LMX 64 for a while now it's finally time I focus on rebuilding my Fighter.
All the parts are now ready and I've carbon wrapped my side panels and rear mud guard also.
DSC_5811.JPG

As a comparison the LMX 64 is much lighter and better at hill climbing than my Fighter, but lacks the range and silence my Fighter has. I might still end up selling my Fighter as the LMX 64 can really do it all that much better and with a spare battery in a backpack can have almost as much range. LMX is also trying to address the noise with a belt drive so I have hope that the 64 might replace my Fighter moving forward.
We'll see though as I still really miss the complete silence of the Fighter (which the LMX will never achieve) and realistically I can't match the full 200km+ range of my Fighter, so I may end up keeping both.

I paid Stealth to replace the rear swing-arm bearings ($20 each), however one of them feels really rough and stiff. I tried installing the rear pivot bolt and it moves easily and feels fine. Does anyone know if those bearings really matter that much and should I bother asking Stealth to replace or it doesn't really matter?

Cheers

28 MPH top speed and sounds like a 10 horsepower zipper, with less range?? I'm good. I wish you luck with your sale though. If I went mid-drive it would probably be the Sur-Ron, as it carries a lot of speed and climbing ability at a bargain price.
 
KarlJ said:
only operating through a very narrow range of what 30degrees hence it could be almost ceased and you wouldnt notice it as the lever is huge.

put the bike back together!
Yeah I had a similar thought and think your right. Screw stuffing around getting it replaced as I don't know if I would even be able to get it out.

st35326 said:
28 MPH top speed and sounds like a 10 horsepower zipper, with less range?? I'm good. I wish you luck with your sale though. If I went mid-drive it would probably be the Sur-Ron, as it carries a lot of speed and climbing ability at a bargain price.
Yeah if you just get the stock off-the-shelf option sure. As for me I've built my own battery, tweaked the controller and will switch over to belt drive at some point so pretty much negating all those problems.
The biggest problem I have with my Fighter is the weight. I like to go bush riding and have to lift my bike over locked gates and barbed wire fences. I do occasionally manage it with the Fighter, but it's always a huge struggle and I've had my fair share of mishaps as a result.
On the other hand the LMX 64 is the perfect balance of weight, power and range to be able to go riding through rugged off-trail adventures and not worry about coming across a locked gate or fence line you weren't expecting.

Realistically it's not an Apples to Apples comparison though...the LMX 64 and Stealth Bomber/Fighter are totally different beasts. Which is why I might just end up keeping both. :D

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Realistically it's not an Apples to Apples comparison though...the LMX 64 and Stealth Bomber/Fighter are totally different beasts. Which is why I might just end up keeping both. :D

Cheers

I can relate with this. Even for my kind of street riding I need more than one bike. I've always said there's, no one perfect bike.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Cowardlyduck said:
Realistically it's not an Apples to Apples comparison though...the LMX 64 and Stealth Bomber/Fighter are totally different beasts. Which is why I might just end up keeping both. :D

Cheers

You buying a bomber then too :lol:
 
Stealth bikes are over engineered enough that you can enhance their performance to a certain degree with little concern of a catastrophic equipment failure. A Bomber sits at the top of the line, and can handle performance enhancement beyond the ability of any other model.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Stealth bikes are over engineered enough that you can enhance their performance to a certain degree with little concern of a catastrophic equipment failure. A Bomber sits at the top of the line, and can handle performance enhancement beyond the ability of any other model.

Nicely put.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Stealth bikes are over engineered enough that you can enhance their performance to a certain degree with little concern of a catastrophic equipment failure. A Bomber sits at the top of the line, and can handle performance enhancement beyond the ability of any other model.
So has anyone adapted that cool frame design to act as the front end of a heavy duty Cargo hauler?

Not necessarily a trike rear, just an extended-length rack / panier setup, good for rough terrain.

Or is that just a silly impossible idea?
 
I have recently purchased a stealth clone ebike. I've been lurking endless sphere for a while but have never posted. I wanted to see if anyone has had any luck registering/titling their stealth or stealth clone or personal build as an actual motorcycle. My bike has a qs hub motor 8000 watt continuous 12000 peak. I was hoping to buy a lighting kit and getting some DOT approved tires. There's also a company online that says it will be able to title and register my bike as long as it passes inspection and has a serial number and bill of sale. They mentioned that they've gotten five Sur Ron light bees registered and titled no issue.

I guess the question is has anybody actually succeeded in this? Thank you
 
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