waste of time. don't bother.

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I will have a brushed controller sent out to you at my expense.

This is because you remind me of my favorite E-bike builder who is in Pakistan, and he would never let me send him anything to help, and I always wanted to help.
 
liveforphysics said:
I will have a brushed controller sent out to you at my expense.

This is because you remind me of my favorite E-bike builder who is in Pakistan, and he would never let me send him anything to help, and I always wanted to help.
Click to expand...

:shock: I'm very grateful and will pay your favour forward to the next person i come across who needs help
 
Btw your idea would work, it's exactly how old 36v golf carts worked. Sets of contactors would each run the motor at a different speed.
 
dogman said:
Btw your idea would work, it's exactly how old 36v golf carts worked. Sets of contactors would each run the motor at a different speed.
Click to expand...

pictured below is a slider throttle that I am thinking of aligning. I do not know if I should drill holes into it and place screws and then use the slider to contact the screwheads, or some other alternative. It would be fun to build this to see how it works even if I do end up with a controller (who knows) :)


[img=http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6501/img00760.jpg]

 
dogman said:
Btw your idea would work, it's exactly how old 36v golf carts worked. Sets of contactors would each run the motor at a different speed.
Click to expand...


is there a way to run the ''first 12v'' battery in parallel with the other batteries? assuming we're using 12v 7ah Genesis batteries, then is it possible to run at low (12v)speed at 7ah x 4 = 28ah? then at 24v speed at 14ah? 36v speed at 7ah? and 48v at 7ah?

another thing is, is it possible to run controllers in series? one throttle....and however many controllers it takes to power an old winch truck motor I salvaged from the scrapyard the other day it's 48v and is rated at 3275rpm, has some torque to it so I thought I'd build it into an ebike
 
The biggest problem with the setup in the first picture is the lowest cell will tend to get drained more than the others since it gets used at all speeds.

You could do a series/parallel switching arrangement to get a variety of voltages, but the wiring would get very complex.

A big enough controller will run your winch motor. This is the best route.
7ah batteries may not run your winch motor, or if they do, not for very long. Perhaps good enough for a test, but your range will be very short, like a few miles.
 
fechter said:
The biggest problem with the setup in the first picture is the lowest cell will tend to get drained more than the others since it gets used at all speeds.

You could do a series/parallel switching arrangement to get a variety of voltages, but the wiring would get very complex.

A big enough controller will run your winch motor. This is the best route.
7ah batteries may not run your winch motor, or if they do, not for very long. Perhaps good enough for a test, but your range will be very short, like a few miles.
Click to expand...


How big a controller are we talking? money's a big issue right now.... Is it possible to build my own 300amp controller? the motor's got 300amps max / 48volts, I currently am saving up for another 2 12v/7ah to get it going at least 6miles (that's the range I need)

I also read somewhere that you need to use electrolytic capacitors to build anything above 35amps? lGBT changes over 555's and some other things? there's this guy on youtube who mods them to 150amps but asks for money EVERY-TIME i contact him :|
any help's appreciated

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G09HPfu6zCs
 
Electricdirtbiker said:
24v is a good starting voltage. Using relays or switches you could parallel 2 12v batteries for a low speed and switch to series for 24v high speed. The arc going to high won't be too bad, but the low speed will be interesting. With relays, there is a danger of the contacts welding themselves shut.
The chinese controllers work ok for the application they were intended for, but there is little margin over that. Thats part of why they don't cost too much. 1500watts is much better, especially with a 24v system. However if your batteries are healthy, an etek can easily draw 300 amps or more. Thats +7200 watts.
Where are you located, perhaps I can point you to some resources?
Wesley
Click to expand...

Hi wes,

I'm located in the west midlands, in the UK, Eteks are hard to work with as even the bolts come in a different size altogether.
Have you found something that can be salvaged that'll make a good 300amp controller for what i need? two switches welded shut yesterday and I slammed into the barn door at full throttle, i really need help
 
dogman said:
Btw your idea would work, it's exactly how old 36v golf carts worked. Sets of contactors would each run the motor at a different speed.
Click to expand...

I have some exciting news to share..... to anyone wanting to know how this may end, I will be building a CURTIS CONTROLLER of which I found the schematics of. because it seems the cheapest built piece of hardware I could find, and partly because it offers a 275amp max rate which helps discharge the rated capacity.

Ultimately, that is how this will probably end. I have nothing further to add.
/
 
DON'T DO IT..IT'S A WASTE OF MONEY. INVEST IN THE CHEAPEST Golf cart controller!
 
that is sort of how the colony team on the discovery channel show the colony did the speed control on their electric trike car they made near the end of the series.
 
Did you get the controller I sent yet?

If you need a 300amp controller, you should stick 3x IRFP4468 fets onto the outside of the case with external 4awg leads connecting the batter-in and motor-out legs.

3 of these FETs will do 300amps easily, and stay cool.

IRFP4468PBF-ND
 
i have a CURTIS 1510a-5251 controller, I cannot find the manual or instructions on the wiring for it. I would be very grateful if someone could help me with the wiring for it, I have a serious problem as the only models that *look* physically like this are the SEPEX controllers.

I do not know if I need a contactor or not, but we'll see.



many thanks

Ned
 
Sorry Ned. It's seems that Curtis has really messed up their website site. Complete manuals used to be available for all of their controllers both current and old. Now I wish I had copied/saved those for the Curtis controllers I have. It looks like all their support is directed to email now, so just go ahead and request the data sheet and user's manual directly from them.

John
 
Hi John
I emailed them a couple of days ago, and I got no answer at all. This is frustrating, the controller's sitting waiting to be plugged in but I don't know which input terminal does the pot go into.
Frustrating.
 
Hi,

I have just ordered an ALLTRAX 300amp controller, and need a twist grip throttle. the Magura is too expensive an option right now, I need something within a cheap price (20 bucks) there must be a company out there that does 0-5k throttles (equivalent to the Magura) for much cheaper.

I am nothing short of buying a cheap 0-5k potentiometer and connecting it to a hall effect sensor on the inside and making it work that way, only problem is most 0-5k potentiometers aren't 90 degree ones, they're usually 720 degree rotation and more.

please help
 
Drunkskunk said:
I think I'm missunderstanding. Do you Need a Hall effect throttle, or a resistive throttle?
Click to expand...

sorry, I need a resistive throttle 0-5k for the Alltrax controller. but the Magura's way too expensive, what are my other 'budget' options?
 
bikeraider said:
Hi,

Someone here I don't remember the name of this guy's use a plastic project box, a little arm to turn the potentiometer and spring to put it back, , he use a normal ICE handle with the cable to control it, seems to work nice.

Good day!
Bikeraider
Click to expand...


So am i right in thinking Magura supply the only 0-5k throttle in our market? are there no other manufacturers? does anyone have a used magura they'd be willing to part with for a decent sum? many many thanks
 
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12196&start=0

you usually want to post a question like this on the ebike technical section or motorcycle/scooter section. Those servo testers are 0-5k pots and seems to only rotate 270 degrees they can be had for relatively cheap too. If you build a custom one be sure to post it as I would beninterested in how you go about doing it. :D
 
I think the cheapest thing would be to make your own pot box and connect it to a standard motorcycle throttle cable.
The pot in the pot box will only rotate something like 90 deg. instead of the standard 270 deg you have with your typical Radio Shack potentiometer. To get around this, use a 15k or 20k pot and adjust the stops so that the pot goes from 0 to 5k over 90 degrees (or whatever you need).

Plan B is a bit more complicated, but it is possible to make an interface circuit that will interface a hall effect throttle to an Alltrax. I'm currently testing such a gizmo, but it is fairly complex and challenging to build.
 
novembersierra28 said:
I am nothing short of buying a cheap 0-5k potentiometer and connecting it to a hall effect sensor on the inside and making it work that way, only problem is most 0-5k potentiometers aren't 90 degree ones, they're usually 720 degree rotation and more.

please help
Click to expand...

http://www.tecknowledgey.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=54_55&products_id=464
 
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