AussieJester wrote:If you can find cheap shipping i can get these F&P motors for free Amberwolf...
amberwolf wrote:AussieJester wrote:If you can find cheap shipping i can get these F&P motors for free Amberwolf...
I appreciate the offer, but cheap shipping from Australia to Arizona is kind of like the square root of negative 1. (an imaginary number)
I did a quick check with a few carriers using 30 pounds and 24" x 24" x 24", sending from my address to your area, and I get wildly varying rates:
I have a feeling that the USPS quote is probably wrong, since it's so far off of the others. Can't imagine their rates would be that much less for international shipping....
Even at that "low" rate, it is not only more than I could afford, it is more than it is worth to me, at least right now.
Am I right saying small wire and more turns = higher KV?
liveforphysics wrote:Jeremy- Do you have any insight for us on what happens as the coil increases radius during winding and the wire moves further from the iron? Does a greater amount of those outer most wrapping layers flux become lost similar to the large(r) amount of end winding flux that becomes lost?
In other words, in a motor with an extreme gap between stator teeth like this example, would the best solution always be to do anything possible to get as high of copper fill percentage in the gaps, or is there a point where the additional resistance of the winding outweighs the flux gained due to the increased distance from the iron? Part of me wants to think most all of the flux in the wires there will get captured reguardless of the radius from the iron, and another part of me thinks the outside flux would have a much greater chance of being lost than used...
Help me understand my friend!
PS: Merry Christmas Eve to you.
amberwolf wrote:DHL: $814
liveforphysics wrote:what happens as the coil increases radius during winding and the wire moves further from the iron?
bigmoose wrote: made in the USA by F&P for Whirlpool.
F&p would you know the weight of the stator alone ? and can the shaft be easily removed for shipping ?
@those wishing to rewind with thicker wire: Those end tabs are plastic, right? Well....since they're not part of the iron of the stator, you can remove them, even if temporarily. Make your windings on a form outside of the motor, so that you can wrap as easily and neatly as you want into a slight cone-shape for max copper in whatever wire size you're after. Then slip it off the form and onto the stator pole, gluing it down if necessary. Repeat for every pole, and voila! Really cool and neat winding you can't do on most motors due to the stator construction!
F&P wrote:The shaft is easily removed or cut down.
That is how I rewire car and truck alts for wind turbines, and takes only about 2hrs. But it is a bit harder with the F&P stator as the top of the stator laminate area is a fair bit larger the inner. The spare stator i have that has the copper removed but is at another place and will get some pics as soon as i get back. But i guess the inner laminate area is about half of that of the top area that you see in the pics. This also means that there is more copper than you guys can probably see in the pics.
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