StudEbiker's S-750 build- Almost done.

[vanilla ice]

Love the color of this frame btw.. great shade of grey.

[mikeross]

This may be too late, but I was able to get the 7 speed cassette mounted on my 9C/S-750 build. I bought the cassette and a $5 spacer washer from Ebikes.ca. The 7 speed is nice because it has the very small 11 tooth gear, which will allow you to pedal at higher speeds. Here is a photo of the way it works out - you need to spread the rear frame about 1/8th of an inch - it is really just a very snug fit.

[johnrobholmes]

Boy that did turn out clean! Great job!

[StudEbiker]

Thanks John. It was definitely a labor of love on this one. Looking forward to some warmer weather to really put some miles on it.

[tritonwow]

Very good looking bike. I bought a red and a gray frame with the intent to sell the gray one. I put it up for sale but really haven't pursued it and a build like yours re-affirms I need to keep it.

[mikeross]

Hey, Stud: Got a couple questions for you - is that a 20 amp or 35 amp controller you have? How's the performance - are you happy with it? I've got the 20 amp and it is kind of slow on acceleration, although top end is about 24 mph, which is fine with me.... Second question: Did you tighten up your spokes any from the way they came? Mine are kind of loose and make a weird noise like the spokes are flexing when I'm riding (I weigh 225, so yeah, with me, rear motor, rear battery it's got a good load on it ).

Sorry about messing up your thread with that huge picture of the cassette - I'll fix that.

What are your next planned *improvements*??

Mike

[studes4ever]

Hey, Stud: Got a couple questions for you - is that a 20 amp or 35 amp controller you have? How's the performance - are you happy with it? I've got the 20 amp and it is kind of slow on acceleration, although top end is about 24 mph, which is fine with me.... Second question: Did you tighten up your spokes any from the way they came? Mine are kind of loose and make a weird noise like the spokes are flexing when I'm riding (I weigh 225, so yeah, with me, rear motor, rear battery it's got a good load on it ).

Sorry about messing up your thread with that huge picture of the cassette - I'll fix that.

What are your next planned *improvements*??

Mike

It is a programmable Infineon that is currently set to 22 amps. I have the stuff I need to program it, but I just haven't done it yet. If I opened it up at all I probably wouldn't go past 30-32 amps to stay within the limitations of the Headway BMS. I am pretty happy with it. I really like how smooth it is. Top end has gone down considerably from the Aotema front drive I was using, but everything else really makes up for it. Did I tighten the spokes.......uh yeah, many times. I wanted to have matching front and rear wheels so I unlaced the motor from the wheel it originally came in (which came to me out of round, out of true, and out of dish, but hey it was free so that kinda made up for it!) Since I have been riding the bike I have tightened them up once and now they seem to be holding pretty good, but I still don't have very many miles on it. Don't really have anymore improvements planned for this bike. I need to get a light for it sometime soon, probably a MagicShine. And I would love to figure out a locking case I could put on it somewhere. I don't like having my lock and cable in my messenger bag when I ride I would just rather have it with the bike. I bought a standard metal tackle box that I thought I could make work, but there is not enough room for it because the seat is too low. Now I am thinking about some ammo cans mounted pannier style on the rear rack, but I am concerned about even more weight on the back. Right now it still feels pretty balanced, but.......

[mikeross]

Did I tighten the spokes.......uh yeah, many times.

Haha LOL - OK, thanks - well *spoke*n. Hope you can get out there soon and put some miles on your nice ebike now - you earned it!
Mike

[mwkeefer]

Bro - 2 things;

1.) If the BMS you are referring to is the one in your thread, it's using P75NF75 (same fets as in Infineon 9FET) and that PCB looks to be able to handle 2 more FETs onboard... check the traces to affirm they are all parallel working as switches between pack ground and pack ground output.. If they are parallel, send me a PM with your addr and I'll send you about 8 of em to tack in and play with... may need to beef up the shunt but you can bypass that 35A limit without fear = )_

2.) Post a pic of the tidalforce on the "Stealth Roast" thread... I never did get one of those frames, still want to try... Grey if I can find it... just in general a sweet frame.

-Mike

[StudEbiker]

I did a search for "stealth roast", but nothing cam up....have a link?

Found a couple of more pictures I've taken and have posted elsewhere on the forum, but I thought I should put them here too. I really enjoy this bike so much. Now if it would just stop raining!!

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[StudEbiker]

I've been dealing with a kickstand that is a little too short on this bike for awhile. I think it is a combination of taller tires and more weight on the back than TidalForces originally had that causes the problem. I came up with this quick and easy, down and dirty fix for he problem. Took me about ten minutes to do and the bike is much more stable on the kickstand now.

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[StudEbiker]

One of the last things that I've been wanting to add to this bike was some lights. Finally purchased one of the 900 lumen SpiderFire lights from DX and started setting it all up with one of Lyen's DC-DC converters.

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I used AmberWolf's idea of using two hose clamps to mount the light to the handlebars and it works brilliantly! The switch to the left of the light powers on the light which I find much easier to deal with than trying to mash the clicky, especially with winter gloves on. I put the converter in a small project box and housed it in the trunk. I am planning on adding a tail light powered from the converter and activated by the switch in the future but my "plan a" proved to be too troublesome some I am "back to the drawing board" on that.

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The light is quite impressive. By itself, it seems as bright as a set of car lights and has a great throw and flood. Many thanks to BigBeam fo the recommendation of the SpiderFire P7 SSC as the best all around light for night biking. I see that DX has a new 900 lumen light available that looks interesting, but this light is all I could need at the speeds I ride at. There are more over the handlebar beam shots on the internet than you can shake a stick at and mine is nothing special, but he 'ya go:

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Except for the tail light TBD, the bike is really finished. Of course now I have the LiPo bug. I am wondering if I could fit 10ah of 12s HK LiPo in this Headway case so I can still keep the setup basically the same just get more volts and fewer pounds?

[StudEbiker]

I added a front fender from a trash bike I picked up recently to the rear. Should give the controller lots of protection from the rain and puddles now.

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[StudEbiker]

Well, after getting a rear fender on and seeing the benefits of having one in the rear I started looking at ways of having a front fender. I am trying to increase my efforts in making the bike my primary form of transportation. I am very likely going to go car free in the next month. The rising cost of gas, the general state of the economy, and trying to pay off some educational debt as quickly as possible has convinced me that I NEED to go car free. This week has been rainy but I know that if I am going to go car free I am going to have to ride in the rain sometimes so I pushed through this week. No serious rainstorms but just that medium rate constant drizzle that can sometimes really make things soggy here in southern Oregon. Well, let me tell you, it was not fun! It wasn't the rain so much as catching all the road grime and EXTRA water coming off my front tire. It was clear to me that if I was going to ride regularly in the rain I was going to have to have a front fender.

Well, I am running large Maxxis Holy Rollers and there is just not enough room between the tire and the fork to mount a traditional fender so I started exploring other options. I ran my problem by a friend that works at a bike shop and he suggested trying to place the fender over the fork cross bar. Good idea

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So I started digging through the used fenders at the LBS in hopes of finding an appropriate fender. I found a nice wide steel fender from some cruiser bike that looked like it might fit the bill. 5 bux later I was on my way.

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Of course this was not going to be a PNP situation. Some modifications were going to be needed. Since I was going to be mounting the fender over the cross bar I decided to turn the mounting point on the top of the fender over in hopes that I could still use the standard cross bar screw hole for holding the fender in place at the top.

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It worked. By the way, I replaced those nuts in the picture with lock nuts for the final mount. Then I just had to find a way to mount the stays to a fork that definitely was not intended for a cruiser fender to be mounted to it. I came up with a solution that I think will work. I put a couple of holes on each side, cut some old tube up for a wrap and add some grip, and put some zip ties (zip ties are my duct tape!!) around the fork and through the holes. Eventually I will Dremel off the end of the stays and clean it up some, but I want to make sure this is going to ride solid before I do anything that can't be undone. I think it actually looks really good and should keep the grime of my face and out of my eyes which is the main point anyway.

[Rassy]

The front fender looks good. Is it going to get mangled if you hit a big bump?

[StudEbiker]

It might. I can flatten it out more on the top if I need to. I am a "stick to the pavement" kind of guy, but there may be some clearance issues that I hadn't considered. judging by the dust/oil line on the fork it looks like the most the forks compress typically the way I ride is 1 1/'4", and there is 1 1/2" between the fender and where it would hit the fork. Like I said, I can flatten the fender out and probably get another 1/2" to 3/4" clearance so if it bottoms out too much I'll flatten it down some.

[amberwolf]

Couldn't you just put the fender stays onto the top disc brake mounting bolt on the left side, and then make a matching-height point on the right side using a strip of metal in a P-clamp style around the fork leg?

[StudEbiker]

Couldn't you just put the fender stays onto the top disc brake mounting bolt on the left side, and then make a matching-height point on the right side using a strip of metal in a P-clamp style around the fork leg?

I considered that, but the were cable interference issues and the way I ended up doing was going to be cleaner and less hassle.

[Beavinator]

Nice clean build! I really like it!

[StudEbiker]

It looks like many of the pictures on this thread have been eaten by the "upgrade" monster. I'll see about going through and replacing them soon.

Anyway, I just thought I would update on what I did on the DC-DC converter I installed awhile back. The last one worked great for a few months and then without warning, it just quit. Lyen said it probably got too hot and suggested putting a heat sink on the new one. I installed the new one recently without a sink and it seems like the newer versions have a protection circuit for when it gets too warm because the light would turn off and turn on again randomly. I checked the box and it was indeed pretty warm. Okay, time for a heat sink. I've been keeping an eye out for one that would work and yesterday at a yard sale I found just the thing on some piece of car audio equipment. Hopefully this will keep it cool enough so it doesn't kick off.

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[amberwolf]

Looks kinda like what I did to cool the DC-DC I got from Icecube57, when I put it on DayGlo Avenger:
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[StudEbiker]

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