dogman wrote:Looks really well thought out. The long wheelbase( I think) makes rear suspension less needed that on short base bikes. Front shocks though, are always worth having to make hand fatigue less on a 60 mile + day. Cargo capacity to carry the luggage and batteries for cross country travel is no problem on a longtail.
You may already have it in the plan, but for high mileage daily riding, you really need to have a thermometer in the motor, or on the axle stub to keep from melting down the motor climbing some huge hill in the middle of nowhere. Each day on a tour, you will have to know what speed is sustainable in that days weather and terrain. If you travel above the sustainable speed and get hot, you need to know when to stop before damaging stuff.
icecube57 wrote:You need to drill out those side covers. I first drilled mine half way up the unibit. It worked well last year. This year I drilled mine out to the largest unibit size.
icecube57 wrote:You need to drill out those side covers. I first drilled mine half way up the unibit. It worked well last year. This year I drilled mine out to the largest unibit size. It can take a little over 2000w+ continuous without having to back off 60v 45+A. WOT for 15 miles Ive tested and I got into the 130s. I still got the stock harness in mine but its chopped off an inch or two out the axel. Soldered and shrinked wrapped halls and terminated phase wires with andersons. To extend the wires I used 22G hall and 10g phase. Working just fine. Even routed mine through the fork and frame. Good Luck! Nice Build. I wonder what your pack voltage will be under load. I rest at 66v and hover around 56-57 under full load without restriction on my 60v 20AH Thundersky Pack. I currently have my controller lvc set around 59-60v. You feel a soft shutter under load as it clips the lvc. It feels like it throttles the current back allowing the voltage to stay 59-60v and allows me to go slightly faster than me just letting the voltage sag to whatever 57 or lower. I have the timing advanced enabled also. My controller is also set to overshoot on current before it pulls it back in to the correct amount. I have phase current set at 125. I peak around 35ish on my GM front motor on level ground with 325lb rider 33lb battery pack and 60lb bike you should be able to get to the high 35+s atleast.
amberwolf wrote:If it runs in reverse, I think you only need to flip any two phases. Possibly also have to flip the same hall pair, but can't remember now.
liveforphysics wrote:Looks like it's going to be a great bike!
I'm guessing those packs are clusters of 18650s inside a little can with a BMS and display? Field Coms batteries?
@grindz: those are interesting looking packs. Are those little LCDs on there to display battery info?
mr.electric wrote:When a brushless hub goes in reverse it is quicker to flip the wheel around if it were a front hub.
There are 36 combinations of hall and phase wires. Only one good forward and one good reverse combo. To reverse you have to swap two phase wires, the right two phase wires and make some hall wire changes as well.
With an RC motor it is easy, just swap any two phase wires. My BMC controller has a reverse jumper to save the hastle. I spent over an hour on various combos on a front crystalite with rim brakes and wished I had just flopped the wheel.
GrayKard wrote:What was the average speed on your run and what did the winner have for average speed. Reason I'm asking is that it sounds like you had to do a lot of stops and starts otherwise I would expect your efficiency to be better than that.
My average speed isn't that high on my bike but it is very efficient when I can run WOT the whole time. Last night on my commute home I had an average speed of 18.0mph with a Wh/mi. of approx. 13.7 and that was with no pedaling.
Looks like it was a very fun event.
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