12 x 4110 MOSFET Extreme Modder Controller LYEN Edition $129

[chroot]

Lyen's profile says Location: San Francisco, CA, USA, of course, He is in states

I am willing to pay for express shipping. Are you in the states?

[Lyen]

What is shipping time like? My controller burned up, and I am left stranded.

I am willing to pay for express shipping. Are you in the states?

Hi Auraslip!

I am sorry to hear that your controller is burned up. I do controller repairs. To be honest, I think it would be best if you can send me your controller for inspection so you can save yourself some money. I can also offer you a loaner controller with a security deposit while I am fixing yours.

In case you decided that it is about time to upgrade with a better controller, I am more than happy to send you one from San Francisco, California by USPS Priority Mail for a small fee. Just let me know.

Best Regards,
Edward Lyen

[oldhaq]

This is the third controller I've bought from Edward, he has proven to be a helpful, reliable and honest person, so this one I sent the paypal payment as a "Gift", to help lower the fee that they charge our man Mr Lyen.

[MrKang]

Yesterday i hooked up the new LYEN controller and came up with some issues.

first the hubmotor spinned well, silent and correct when my e-scooter was placed on his stand.
When i wanted to drive with it i noticed that it had no torque.
i think i have to change my green and blue phase wires also.
Because i just copy the wires from my old modified controller to the new LYEN didn't matched i think.

And the brake switch doesn't work. first i noticed that the LYEN controller needed a ground sig. for breaking.
so i resoldered it to the + BRAKE and tried it out. Because when i brake i will put out a 15V signal to the controller.
After resoldering this and put it for the test it still won't shut the motor down when breaking.
Does the LYEN controller need a higher positive voltage ? like 72V or higher ?
if so i have to put a relay which will give the voltage from the controller supply to the brake+

tonight i'm gonna switch the green and blue phase wires as the hall wires. hopefully this will work.

[amberwolf]

So far the few controllers I've investigated only use about 5V for the e-brake lines. Typically they supply a +5V output, a ground, and a signal input wire. Not sure if it is more common to ground the signal line to start braking, or if it is more common to input 5V to start braking.

I dont' know what would happen if you input 15V to it, but I think pack voltage would probably damage or destroy the MCU chip inside.

If you are not already doing so, I'd suggest you try using only the supply output from the (probably 3-wire) brake connector to generate the braking signal. See if it works that way.

[Lyen]

Dear MrKang,

I apologize for not making it clear the brake connector with the yellow & black wire is meant for signal only. The yellow and black wire will triggered & stop the motor if connect together. There is a potential damage if you feed it with voltage in stead of signal. Please PM me if you have any other questions.

Sincerely,
Edward Lyen

Yesterday i hooked up the new LYEN controller and came up with some issues.

first the hubmotor spinned well, silent and correct when my e-scooter was placed on his stand.
When i wanted to drive with it i noticed that it had no torque.
i think i have to change my green and blue phase wires also.
Because i just copy the wires from my old modified controller to the new LYEN didn't matched i think.

And the brake switch doesn't work. first i noticed that the LYEN controller needed a ground sig. for breaking.
so i resoldered it to the + BRAKE and tried it out. Because when i brake i will put out a 15V signal to the controller.
After resoldering this and put it for the test it still won't shut the motor down when breaking.
Does the LYEN controller need a higher positive voltage ? like 72V or higher ?
if so i have to put a relay which will give the voltage from the controller supply to the brake+

tonight i'm gonna switch the green and blue phase wires as the hall wires. hopefully this will work.

[MrKang]

On the PCB you can see two connections for the brake signal. when i get it it was soldered to the EB- and GND
which indicates when you ground it it will stop. next to the EB- You will see the EB+ padding. This will change it by listening to a positive signal/voltage
just like my other controller this worked fine. Brake signals -or + are both secured by a resistor/diode network before they go to the MCU.
so i don't think i have blown up the circuit yet.

The brake wire in original state is working wel. ..if i hit throttle and connect the gnd with the yellow it shuts down.
But in my situation i only can provide a positive signal because it's linked with my braking lights on the back of the scooter.

I will fix this with a relay which i will trigger when breaking which will shortcut the black and yellow brake line to the controller.

i will fix this tonight and give you an update. also with the phase/hall wire switch

[Lyen]

On the PCB you can see two connections for the brake signal. when i get it it was soldered to the EB- and GND
which indicates when you ground it it will stop. next to the EB- You will see the EB+ padding. This will change it by listening to a positive signal/voltage
just like my other controller this worked fine. Brake signals -or + are both secured by a resistor/diode network before they go to the MCU.
so i don't think i have blown up the circuit yet.

The brake wire in original state is working wel. ..if i hit throttle and connect the gnd with the yellow it shuts down.
But in my situation i only can provide a positive signal because it's linked with my braking lights on the back of the scooter.

I will fix this with a relay which i will trigger when breaking which will shortcut the black and yellow brake line to the controller.

i will fix this tonight and give you an update. also with the phase/hall wire switch

Hello again MrKang!

I have a similar setup up like yours with my scooter style electric bike. What I did was I wire the braking voltage to a relay to trigger the braking signal instead of the direct feed.

Thanks again for your reply to share the information with us! By the way, I have noticed on your signature stating you have upgraded the controller to 150v? May I ask how did you managed to do that? Just for my curiosity.

[MrKang]

Hi LYEN

That is still in progres. Like your controller i use the 4115 and use 200V caps. It is stated 150V but that's the maximum working voltage.
it's more like supersafe for 24S lipo system. Then you will not have any concern blowing out your controller while driving full speed at 40 miles away from home.. it's a long walk...

[MrKang]

i tried switching the wires but didn't helped..

problem: i got 1 original controller which is pretty the sam as LYEN one.
phases are A B and C as the hall sensor wiring.

So i thought this is the same wire setup as my old one.

After placing LYEN controller the hub motor spins as smoothly as my old controller. (THIS IS WHEN MY SCOOTER WHEEL IS HANGING ABOVE THE GROUND SO NO RESISTANCE)

I can play with the throttle like young kids you know....vroom..vroom..! it spins super!

When putting the scooter on the ground and hitting the throttle it don't have any torque...it just moves a bit forward and that's it...

Can it be the programming ? i just use the standard parameters LYEN programmed it with.

Somebody also has the same problem with not having any torque...what was his sollution ?

PLEASE HELP!

[MrKang]

SOLVED !!!

I focused the settings from a picture from Edward. But it was set for 18FET model on the picture..
I switched it to 12 FET model and BAM!!! it worked baby !!

tommorow i'm gonna place the relay for the brake signal .

[MrKang]

Question: Why has this controller no autocruise ? You can see the parameter on the software (1 to 15s)
or do i have to connect it on the PCB somewhere ?

[Lyen]

This is in response to MrKang's cruise control question. I have edited the response to correct what I have previously mentioned.

The actual way that it is supposed to work is like this:

1. Press a momentary switch button that connects between the CR pad and ground
2. Hold the throttle steady let say for 5 seconds to activate the cruise control
3. Press the momentary switch button or ebrake to deactivate cruise control

Thank you very much Number1cruncher's help on the post below! The information is very valuable! I appreciate it.

[number1cruncher]

On the 846 boards, there is a CR pad that when grounded, allows the rider to set the cruise control. I set my cruise time to 5 seconds in PD, so after holding the throttle steady for 5 seconds, it cruises until I hit the throttle or brake again. I'm not sure if the 116 has this pad, but it wouldn't hurt to look...Edit: Attached is a pic from LYEN that shows the CR pad in the upper right side, circled in red.

[MrKang]

i'm gonna try it out and let you know if it's possible.

AND IT WORKS !!...So just shortcut the CR with GND and you have cruise control which you can adjust with the software (1s ..15s delay)

Thanks for the picture! ( i was to lazy to get the controller out again (for the 5th time)

CRUISE CONTROL IS POSSIBLE AT LYEN CONTROLLER !! :P

[Hyena]

So you can permanantly ground CR and cruise will automatically kick in after the defined time in PD ? Nice.
I thought it was possible and emailed Lyen but I got the impression I needed an external cruise module.

[number1cruncher]

I ran wires from the CR pad and the GND pad to the outside of the controller. Right now they are just terminated with andersons, but I will install a switch at some point. That way I can physically turn off the cruise when I don't want it. It can get annoying in heavy traffic, just like in a car.

[auraslip]

I just got my very well packaged controller from Lyen today.

Does anyone have phase wiring instructions for a nine continents ebikekit front hub?

[Lyen]

I just got my very well packaged controller from Lyen today.

Does anyone have phase wiring instructions for a nine continents ebikekit front hub?

Hello Auraslip!

I'm glad you have received your controller within the week.

Please try the color lining for your 9C motor below:

Controller: Motor:
Hall:
Y Y
G B
B G

Phase:
Y Y
G B
B G

Best Regards,
Edward Lyen

[auraslip]

I just tried that color combo and nothing.

[Lyen]

I just tried that color combo and nothing.

You need to connect the small thin red wire to the battery positive to start your "engine".

[auraslip]

It is....

I checked the continuity of all the wires to the motor.

I checked the thottle. It varies around ~5 volts like it should.

I checked the hall sensors. They varies around ~5 volts while I turn the wheel.

Brakes disconnected.

[auraslip]

frock it. I'm going camping. I'll deal with it when I get back on sunday. I was looking forward to taking my bike with me ;(

I opened up the controller to have a looksie btw....

nice FAT solder traces

[Lyen]

I want to hug it. I'm going camping. I'll deal with it when I get back on sunday. I was looking forward to taking my bike with me ;(

I opened up the controller to have a looksie btw....

nice FAT solder traces

Hi Auraslip! I suspected you may have created an issue here since you have mentioned you switched the red & black wire on your throttle. I have sent you a private message and lets troubleshoot and narrow down your issue there. Thanks!

[turbobass]

wrong thread ... sorry