Hillhater wrote:An added bonus is you can use the 4 mm cap heads that come with the prop adaptor , to secure the motor to the side plate !
Kepler wrote:Nice Job Oatnet. I am going to do some cut and paste here and add it to my manual. I would have liked to have done something similar but I just ran out of hours in the day to get this done before they shipped. Glad I could rely on you guys though to get this together.
Make sure you get the ESC clamping plate square so it contacts as much of the ESC heat sink as possible. I presume cutting away a bit of the heat shrink on the ESC would have helped this.
In regards to angling it down, what you have done is what I meant so thatÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s good. The idea is to get the roller a bit lower on the wheel circumference. This will encourage a firmer engagement under load. Post a picture of the drive position on the bike with the steeper angle if you could. I would like to see how it sits.
Hillhater wrote:question .!
why do you use the prop adaptor on the "drive" end of the motor into the bearing ???
On the 63 dia motors the prop adaptor is 10mm, same as the main motor shaft, so its simple to move the shaft through the motor stator and use it direct in the bearing.
This simplifies the assy, saves 10-15 mm on width, and eliminates a potential weakness ( that alloy prop adaptor is not designed for these "normal" loads )
An added bonus is you can use the 4 mm cap heads that come with the prop adaptor , to secure the motor to the side plate !
Kepler wrote:. The only thing I dont like about the idea is that you dont have the ability to tie it all together with the 10mm nut and you end up relying on 4mm grub screw only. Time for some testing
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