Philistine wrote:He's a good man is our Hyena, AKA Mr Asia, I have tasted two of his imports now, and it has always been a pleasure dealing with him.
Nice looking bike. How is it you are going to secure the packs in the way you have showed (what I mean is by what means will they be secured to the frame, and what sort of physical protection will they be given?).
Looks like you will have the torque plates sorted, You really should bring your taste for overengineering to the torque plate. I can't tell you how many times I have thought I have overengineered my torque solutions, only to see the unstoppable axle of evil tear through.
Looks like it will be a nice ride, best of luck with it.
MadRhino wrote:You will like it, My 2008 A-Line is a very good ride and this one is better in many points. The Park model is pimped all over, and usually have suspension upgrade. The bolt-on thru axle dropouts are ideal, just make thick steel replacements and bolt em, much better than adding torque arms or plates.
If it has a variable headset, adjust the steer angle to the max and you should gain 1in longer wheelbase. The Bomber will still ride nice with the extra weight, you can make it better with slightly thicker oil. With the motor, it will be PITA to find proper adjustment for rear shock damping. I replaced the shock spring for heavier at first and it was better, but finally bought a DHX 5 Air and now it's near perfection.
knoxie wrote:hey looks really nice, love the bike sooo sexy, its just the sort of thing I want to build for my next ride, love the fact you have given yourself a week to do it as well, you like a deadline then! ha ha great stuff!! looking forward to seeing it emerge oh and some video from it once you have it done :-subscribed
sn0wchyld wrote:the guys at the shop said they front and rear shocks had both been beefed up...
doc007 wrote:MadRhino- what makes the Fox DHX air better than the coil version?
oatnet wrote:The aluminum clamps that hard-mount it to the stanchions are small and weigh ounces, a stock item on eBay.
rui_fujino wrote:hey, how's ur build going? your setup are almost identical to my build so far other then the bike ofcos... whats your method of charging?
oh and with building your lipos, why dont you use the space under the frame?
i dont mean to change your settings but this might help
take lots of pic of your development!
oatnet wrote:Beautiful frame, I like where you are going!
Have you considered a front-mounted pack?
sn0wchyld wrote:...I really didnt want to have to open up the motor before actually being able to use it!!
MadRhino wrote:sn0wchyld wrote:...I really didnt want to have to open up the motor before actually being able to use it!!
Anyone hoping for some performance and reliability must open this motor, would it be only for upgrading the phase wires that are ridiculously small and cheap. Installing a thermometer probe is also a good idea, because this lighter Clyte will overheat faster than the X5. The bearings too, can be upgraded to much better quality.
Then, about the noize and cogging, you must first make sure that all connections are good, and that you plugged the good phase and hall sequence. That can be a little puzzle, but easy to solve if you proceed methodically.
ZOMGVTEK wrote:Is this motor sensored?
The hall/phase combo is probably incorrect.
nicobie wrote:For a Lyen 12 fet controller set the shunt value on your CA to 2.4 and you will be close.
Something is wrong as you should be getting a speed reading on your CA.
If the H series motors use the same color code as the rest of Clyte motors do, this should be the way to wire it:
Lyen Controller to Crystalyte motor wire color lining:
doc007 wrote:congrats! does that add about 25% to your completion scale in your sig?
MadRhino wrote:doc007 wrote:congrats! does that add about 25% to your completion scale in your sig?
Yep, it should. Slow build, this A-Line.
I got one special winding H 3535 motor 2 weeks ago, and put on it some 500 Km already.
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