CellLog 8S Alarm Circuit For Newbies

[The Journey Guy]

Yup, and removed the plastic case from the smoke detector, so it is very small now

Well, where were you when I was trying to figure all this out then? Your post would have saved me quite a bit of cash, not to mention time and effort. I blame you totally for not stepping forward with this information long ago!

Kidding, of course. But you can bet that after work today, I'll be doing some testing and see how well this works. But if I blow up a perfectly good CellLog, then I'll expect you to replace it for me. LOL

But seriously, for what I want, your solution will be perfect if I can get it to do as you say it will. Many thanks!!

TJG

[Bazaki]

Yup, and removed the plastic case from the smoke detector, so it is very small now

Well, where were you when I was trying to figure all this out then? Your post would have saved me quite a bit of cash, not to mention time and effort. I blame you totally for not stepping forward with this information long ago!

Kidding, of course. But you can bet that after work today, I'll be doing some testing and see how well this works. But if I blow up a perfectly good CellLog, then I'll expect you to replace it for me. LOL

But seriously, for what I want, your solution will be perfect if I can get it to do as you say it will. Many thanks!!

TJG

How about if you like and use my idea so much I'll expect you to buy me a cell log 8

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18915&p=276624&hilit=+smoke#p276624

You could have read it before a few weeks ago . I'm still very happy with it too. Good luck.

[scoot]

I picked up a $7 smoke alarm at lunch today from Wall Mart , and tore it apart. Tried to measure the ma reading across the test switch through my multi meter and could not even register 10ma as the alarm blasted away. woohoo... that won't risk hurting anything in that CellLog8 alarm circuit (rated <500ma I think). And LOUD... way LOUD

Thanks Bazaki

... and everyone else contributing here too .. especially JG for pressing everyone for a simple way to go. I'm more of an electrical dummy than any of you fellas

[The Journey Guy]

Well Baz, I couldn't get it to work for me.

How about you, scoot? Have you actually got it to work with the CellLog yet?

TJG

[scoot]

Nope... just got home and I need to solder the wires on the switch terminals of the smoke alarm (i really suck at soldering ) and slip a fresh alkaline cell (1.6 v) or something into the mix somehow to induce the celllog to trigger the LV alarm. Or maybe I can just over volt one of my LFP cells just enough to trigger the HV alarm... yeah, that sounds easier . Hopefully I can do that tonight. I will let ya know when I am able

[scoot]

I'm sooooo proud of myself I need a dancing banana emotocon

First two teenee weenee solder joints I ever did... way ugly

Set the CellLog HV to 3.2v to ensure a trigger

Set the alarm condition to "NO" which i think menas normally open, but dunno the other option was "NC"... normally closed???

Plugged in the cellLog to my full pack and the little alarm output connector (soldered to the smoke alarm switch) and........... yesssssss!!!!! SUCCESSSSSS!!!!!!

[hydro-one]

just for info...the cheaper cellogs, without logging are back in stock !!! pretty cheap bms IMO..

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... duct=10952

kool ideas with the smoke detector!!! dual purpose i like it alot esp for newbies!!! soon you ll be charging those lipos under your pillow like me

mike

[scoot]

.... charging those lipos under your pillow like me

mike

That would make some mighty fine boy scout kindling for sure. ... kidding

[The Journey Guy]

I'm sooooo proud of myself I need a dancing banana emotocon

First two teenee weenee solder joints I ever did... way ugly

Set the CellLog HV to 3.2v to ensure a trigger

Set the alarm condition to "NO" which i think menas normally open, but dunno the other option was "NC"... normally closed???

Plugged in the cellLog to my full pack and the little alarm output connector (soldered to the smoke alarm switch) and........... yesssssss!!!!! SUCCESSSSSS!!!!!!

Well done!!

OK, so I need to go back and see where I went wrong with my testing. Maybe I didn't have a good enough connection to each side of the test switch. I'll give it another go.

TJG

[dumbass]

Back when I worked for a living (retired 3 years ago) I used to travel internationally and live in hotels and rental apartments for months at a time. So I used to carry a few door alarms with me. you know those little cheapo alarms that you use 2 sided tape to attach it to the door and a magnet on the jam. When activated and the door is opened it sounds the alarm. So I remembered these things in my suite case and thought why not try them on the CellLog output. They normally run at 4.5v but I connected it to 2 cells. At the normal voltage (4.5) it is 90db. At 7.3v from 2 fully charged cells it really screams. I opened one up and stripped it down to just the speaker and controller...really small now....To see how well it would handle the added voltage I left it blaring for 30 minutes. The control logic got a little hot but it never cut out. And lets face it will you ever let it blare for 30 minutes? The only thing I need to do now is actually try activating it through the CellLogs alarm output. I would prefer to messure the power load first to verify that the CellLogs output will handle it. Can anyone advise me how to do this?

Bob

EDIT: I bought these alarms at the local dollar store for a buck each and they still have them so I bought 2 more today. Cheap money if I can use thiem...

[knoxie]

Be careful driving that directly off the cellog plenty have blown the outputs, much safer to pop it through the opto, if say your wires shorts on the buzzer or it fails it will most likely take the celllog circuit with it, the idea behind the opto is that it isolates what you are switching, ok there is still the possibility of the output leads from the alarm being affected but its less likely.

[amberwolf]

I opened one up and stripped it down to just the speaker and controller

So that means you're not using the little magnet and internal reed(?) switch? If so, would you sell those parts to me--they'd send in a pretty tiny cheap envelope via USPS. I'd just like a picture of the parts next to something for scale (like a dime) so I can get an idea if I could use them in my bike stuff (pretty sure I can).

[mwkeefer]

Amberwolf

[amberwolf]

Can't let stuff just go to waste now, can I?

[dumbass]

Can't let stuff just go to waste now, can I?

I'd be happy to take a pic for you but honestly the reed switch is nothing special. If I a seeing what I think I am seeing the reed switch is molding into the part I am keeping. Remember this whole this is only a buck at the dollar store.

[mwkeefer]

dumb,

He doesn't care... postage is 36c I don't even think he's cheap just really good a reusing what most of us would think of as rubbish... what's better, he will make it work in somthing

-Mike
PS: What did you do with the Mercury switch AW, did you add a robot female voice to the day glo that says "Tilt, Tilt, Tilt" as you lean into turns like a Pinball Machine.... No? Why not!

PPS: I really do love some of the things ya churn out

[dumbass]

Be careful driving that directly off the cellog plenty have blown the outputs, much safer to pop it through the opto, if say your wires shorts on the buzzer or it fails it will most likely take the celllog circuit with it, the idea behind the opto is that it isolates what you are switching, ok there is still the possibility of the output leads from the alarm being affected but its less likely.

Yeah, but that setup looks a little beyond my electronic ability. I'm wondering if I just put a smallt fuse inline between the power leg and the CellLog alarm output if it wouldn't pretect the CellLogs.

[kfong]

Anyone have pictures of the internal of the cellog or schematics. I'm thinking of interfacing this with the smart switch I just created. Would be a great way to monitor and protect your bike batteries.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19987&start=105

[docnjoj]

How about here, Kfong!
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=20142

I just bought 2 of these critters.
otherDoc

[kfong]

Thanks otherDoc,

Hmm, 3 volts. looks like I'll just use an A/D pin to monitor it. Thanks, gives me a heads up on what pins I need to assign.

On further reading, it might not be that useful after all. It would make my smart switch dumb if I had to rely on the signal of the cell log. Seems best use of the cell log is an audible alarm.

[fechter]

Yeah, but that setup looks a little beyond my electronic ability. I'm wondering if I just put a smallt fuse inline between the power leg and the CellLog alarm output if it wouldn't pretect the CellLogs.

Fuses tend to be a bit too slow to protect something like that, but it certainly can't hurt. I would suggest a fuse that is quite a bit lower than the output rating (1/2A). A 1/4 amp fuse might work. A resistor in series with the output might be a safer bet, but it will limit how much load you can drive. The resistor should be sized to limit the current to less than 500ma.

The opto coupler is pretty sure fire. Other options would be a micro relay (same idea as the opto coupler) or a buffer transistor. If driving a relay, it is necessary to put a diode across the relay coil (reversed) to prevent a voltage spike from blowing the CellLog when the relay turns off.

[dumbass]

Yeah, but that setup looks a little beyond my electronic ability. I'm wondering if I just put a smallt fuse inline between the power leg and the CellLog alarm output if it wouldn't pretect the CellLogs.

Fuses tend to be a bit too slow to protect something like that, but it certainly can't hurt. I would suggest a fuse that is quite a bit lower than the output rating (1/2A). A 1/4 amp fuse might work. A resistor in series with the output might be a safer bet, but it will limit how much load you can drive. The resistor should be sized to limit the current to less than 500ma.

The opto coupler is pretty sure fire. Other options would be a micro relay (same idea as the opto coupler) or a buffer transistor. If driving a relay, it is necessary to put a diode across the relay coil (reversed) to prevent a voltage spike from blowing the CellLog when the relay turns off.

I have to admit I am not real smart when it comes to electronics. that's why I was trying to think if something that would offer the protection I need but be so simple ever a DA like me can do it. Maybe I'll have to take a better look at the coupler idea and see if I can understand it better. Thanks, Bob

[icekreme1002]

First of all a big thanks for all the information here guys, this is exactly what I have been looking for.
I would like to build this circuit but adapt it a little bit and being very new to electronic I have a few questions.


I would like to keep this all in a box and just plug in by a the balancing connector, while leaving my pack in series 18s2p. If it all works I will ultimately make 3 of them to charge my pack in series with my meanwells and use relays to cut the dc line as mike suggested.

Question 1. If i plug the fuse or resistor to the pack leading to pin 1 on CNY17F it will get the full 70v so I was hoping to make a custom balance lead coming from the 6s pack, using pins 1 and 7 to get the 22v.
Is this a no no for some reason? or possible?

Question 2. I would also like to remove the 24v dc buzzer from the circuit, and I'm not really sure what to change between CNY17F and the relays and cellog white.
If someone could help me out there, that would be great.

This is what I have done so far viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27821&p=424244#p424244
And I have 1n914, 2n3904, and CNY17f, left over from building some of gary's gear, so keen to give this a go .

Thanks for any help!

[fechter]

If you're using more than one CellLog, the output side of the optocoupler needs to be isolated from the input side. You also need a supply to run the relay, and as you suggested, you can run it off a tap from one of the cells, but this will cause a slight imbalance in the load. Your other option there is to use a separate small power supply to run the relay or some kind of voltage regulator that runs off the whole pack.

I would strongly recommend using a solid state relay over a mechanical one. This would allow you to run the relay directly off the optocoupler without needing a transistor.

If I get time, I can draw you a diagram of this.

[fechter]

Here's a diagram:
The solid state relay can be powered through a resistor from the pack. If using more than 8s, the second CellLog should be isolated on the battery side, but the outputs of the optocouplers are combined.

The switch turns off power to the relay. Use this when not charging to prevent extra drain on the pack.

Anytime a CellLog alarms, it shorts out the power for the relay, turning it off.

Solid state relays are pretty common, but a bit spendy. You can find them on eBay many times.

CellLog Relay Controller.jpg (44.25 KiB) Viewed 466 times