Whiplash wrote:I have done this already and I can tell you to keep the amps down LOW, I sheared the teeth off the pinion gear with only 1200 watts..... Not very strong gearboxes, I think its the cheaply made gears...
spinningmagnets wrote:You might consider the option of using the 80-85 in this application. If you drove the rear axle directly, that would draw more amps than this project. By driving the BB, you will be giving the motor some gears to use. 80-100's barely get warm in the rear axle drives (except perhaps when racing), and in this application there would be even less motor heat, so the extra mass of the 100mm length may not be necessary.
Bluefang wrote:So who can explain how to measure a gear like the one we have?
Identifying Unknown Gears
Count the teeth;
Divide by the Outer Diameter.
This gives me the Diametral Pitch. It rarely gives me an exact pitch, due to errors in measuring, but it is usually very close to one of the common pitches of 32, 24, 16, etc.
If this gives me a goofy answer like 22.1, I suspect it is a metric gear, and divide 25.4 by the pitch (or divide the pitch by 25.4 and hit the 1/x button on the calculator) and see if it comes reasonably close to one of the standard metric moduli of 0.5, 0.8, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 2.5, etc.
If this still gives me a goofy answer like 1.14, then I figure it might be a Stub Gear, and try this:
Count the teeth (it doesn't usually change from the last time);
-Divide by the Outer Diameter (which also doesn't usually change).
-It should be close to one of the common pitches, but, alas, it often isn't. If I have a gear with which it meshes, I try this:
Add up the teeth on BOTH gears;
-Divide by two;
-Divide by the Center Distance.
-If this doesn't work, it must be a profile-shifted gear, so I try swearing, which also doesn't work.
I was hoping to do about 3kW peak with this setup yet it seems that could be out of the question. Don't those pocket bikes put out more power than that?
Bluefang wrote:Well that sized gearbox should be able to handle quite abit if the gears are good quality, a 50CC scooter has a 7-1 gearbox at the end of the CVT that is about the same size and handles up to 20hp in a tuned scooter, not for long tho. But back to my point it should be fairly easy to find a pinion gear thats alot stronger then the current one to replace it with? That would also solve your problem with the input shaft been too small. Even replacing the main gear should not be that hard, with the sheer number of these boxes around you would think they are all the same basic design. Or you can go out and buy the high end version which will certainly handle the power.
adrian_sm wrote:Very nice. Great to see you get a dual suspension/RC build up and running. Oh, and I like the digital dash.
Be careful with the clearence to the front wheel, wouldn't want the motor mount bracket to hit the wheel at speed.
What speeds can you actually pedal assist to. Looks like a pretty small chainring.
spinningmagnets wrote:Too bad there is currently no affordable outrunner motor selection halfway between the 63mm motors and the 80mm
Not having everything running on the limit is a good thing in my book
knoxie wrote:very nice looks and sounds like a good setup there, be interested to see it all tidied up and how it fares on longer rides, you figuring to up the battery capacity then?
AussieJester wrote:That is one of the best edited e-bike videos I have seen what program do you use? Nice job on the setup will look slick when finished !
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