Schwinn Spoiler---Now with 1200w Cyclone Motor

If its not broken dont fix it.
I should have heeded that old saying and left well alone.

Last night I sat thinking about this freewheel malarky until my head hurt. Today I thought bugger it it'll do, the motor will just have to continually turn as it did before I added the freewheel, So I spent the afternoon fixing my on my - Towbar/rack/battbox.
5687426529_fa79a3fb79.jpg


Once I had everything wired up I turned the throttle and found that the freewheel was freewheeling not driving.
ooh, lightbulb moment.
After a few whacks with a hammer n' chisel I had the freewheel assembly off, flipped around and hammered back on.
I reconnected the batt wires and crossed my fingers as I turned the throttle. Whoooopeee the motor was driving and freewheeling as it should. Problem solved - or so I thought!

I took the bike for a spin around to my mates a few streets away. He wasn't in so I just kept going around the block a few times and back home. During the short trip I thought that the bike didn't accelerate as quickly as before, it also seemed to take longer to get up to speed?
When I parked up the bike I noticed smoke comming from the motor? I put my hand on it and nearly took the skin off my fingers. I put my hand on the battbox in the area where the controller sits and could feel that this was warm as well?

I never had any smoke/heat problems (motor or controller) when I had this setup with the 11 tooth motor cog and 54 tooth minimoto sprocket.
espoiler2.jpg


Here's me thinking that I'd improve things by adding a freewheel (to create less motor drag) and moving the motor. NOT!!!

This heat/smoke problem is probably all to do with Cog/Sprocket ratio? but im no good with all these calculations?
I need to get naked to count to 21 :lol:

If it is a ratio problem, I have a few options to try...
1. The sprocket on the rear wheel is 49 tooth I think? I can swap this for a 45T. I got both these from SoSauty ... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22908
I'll need to file out the center of the sprocket so it slips over the hub.
2. Try the pedal crank of a kiddies bmx type bike. I'd have to file this out also but its roughly the same size as the minimoto sprocket.
Finally option 3. Do away with the freewheel and weld the 11t cog back onto the motor, put the minimoto 54t sprocket back on the wheel and get a longer 8mm pitch chain.

I cant remember walking under any ladders or smashing any mirrors but this project seems jinxed?

Regards
Tom
 
IIUC your no-problems original ratio was 11:54? Then that's the ratio you need to duplicate or come close to. If you now have 16:49, that's a LOT lower ratio. Dunno if that's what is causing the problem but if it is you need a much *larger* chainring on the back, to go with the larger freewheel tooth count.

54 / 11 = 4.909....
49 / 16 = 3.0625
so to get something equivalent to the 54, you'd multiply the original ratio times the FW tooth count (16): 4.909 x 16 = 78T

78T is pretty danged big for a bicycle-chain-type ring, but you can get them (or make one).

Alternately, if you don't mind a jackshaft, you could put a conveniently-sized sprocket on the bike-chain end of the jackshaft, connecting to the motor's FW, then use the original smaller chain and sprockets from the other end of the jackshaft to the wheel.

Just getting a larger rear sprocket will be simpler.
 
One thing I see is that the motor doesn't look like it is getting the same amount of airflow behind the seatpost like it did at the back. Check the rotation of both wheels for easy rotation. The controller might need more airflow too. That's a huge outdrive. I'm surprised the rear wheel can take the weight. Wish I had more experience here, but I know your frustration. My S10 project had me climbing the walls too. Just remember that any custom job has it's growing pains, and unforseen pitfalls. I just hope your fingers heal quickly, and your motor isn't knackered!
Brian L.
 
amberwolf said:
IIUC your no-problems original ratio was 11:54? Then that's the ratio you need to duplicate or come close to. If you now have 16:49, that's a LOT lower ratio. Dunno if that's what is causing the problem but if it is you need a much *larger* chainring on the back, to go with the larger freewheel tooth count.

54 / 11 = 4.909....
49 / 16 = 3.0625
so to get something equivalent to the 54, you'd multiply the original ratio times the FW tooth count (16): 4.909 x 16 = 78T

78T is pretty danged big for a bicycle-chain-type ring, but you can get them (or make one).

Alternately, if you don't mind a jackshaft, you could put a conveniently-sized sprocket on the bike-chain end of the jackshaft, connecting to the motor's FW, then use the original smaller chain and sprockets from the other end of the jackshaft to the wheel.

Just getting a larger rear sprocket will be simpler.


So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom
 
Hi guys,

I got another 4 lipos the other day (Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C) to go with the 2 I already have and I thought I best check that i'll be wiring them up right?

Step 1.
Take 2 Turnigy 5000mAh 5S 25C batteries and wire the positive from one to the negitive of the other to give me a 36V battery.

Step 2.
Repeat step 1 for the other 4 batteries until I have 3 sets of 36v batteries.

Step 3.
Wire all three positve sets together and all three negitive sets together so I am left with 1 Positive lead & 1 negitive lead. Plug these leads into controller and off we go?

Im using the iCharger 1010B+ 300W 10s Balance/Charger to charge my batteries one at a time, so it'll take around 6 hours to charge them but this will give me more range on my Powabike Mark 1 Classic...

powabike.jpg


Im using the Powabike Mark 1 Classic to get around at the moment as the chopper in on the back burner, I cant find a big sprocket for the rear wheel so I think Im going to have to make some kind of jackshaft system, though I have no idea of all the gearing ratios thats involved to achive this?

Regards
Tom
 
Correct on the battery wires except one thing. All three sets should be joined at each connection point. In other words at the point where you put pos to neg to double the volts, all strings should join up there too. This is so that if you have a cell do bad you don't lose a string. Refer to the pic of the harness I recently bought from Farfle, oops I mean ZombieSS.

Runtharness.jpg


Looks like I forgot to update my drawing on my thread. I wonder why nobody corrected me! If you are unsure, GET AHOLD OF ME! I read til my eyes were sore about this very subject.
Brian L.
 
Nice bags man! 8) That'll spruce up the looks and cargo cap on your ride, for sure. I'm leaning towards the same solution for mine, but I need other stuff first. Thinking about dropping the 9C rear wheel and going for an Escooter hub for the Spoiler but it's so close to finished I just can't stop now. Plus I don't think the aluminum frame can handle the power anyway. :shock: :shock: I'm gonna see if mabye I can get one for the Runt. That would make for a fun time, a wheelie capable 88KPH hardtail OCC chopper! :twisted: If I could govern the power I could let anyone ride it without worry. Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
Brian L.
 
RallySTX said:
I'm leaning towards the same solution for mine, but I need other stuff first. Thinking about dropping the 9C rear wheel and going for an Escooter hub for the Spoiler but it's so close to finished I just can't stop now.

Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
Brian L.

I need other stuff too. My 500watt motor is getting very hot after a long run? I took a run over to Stirling this week and as I rode I could smell that burning plasticy smell! Prob wires getting hot! I had to pedal a good part of the way back and my butt was aching by the time I got home - mind you I had put the old spoiler seat back on till I get my other seat and backrest sorted out.
I had to abandon the jackshaft idea on thes spoiler as it wasn't working right, it took ages to get up to any kinda speed plus the bloody chain(s) kept slipping off, and that was after I made up a chain tenshioner. So I went back to the 11t mini moto sprocket on motor and the 54t sprocket on wheel.

I downloaded a new app for my Nokia N95 phone - Sports Tracker. I took a run over to a mates lastnight and gave it a go. My avrage speed was 22mph.

PLANS. & WISH LIST
Fit and wire up new indicator mirrors that arrived last weekend.
Fit Saddlebags once they arrive.
Make up a box for batts/controller and other gizmos. Something along the lines Aussiejester/Kim made up for his trike.... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4432&start=525
Sort out seatpost/seat and backrest.
Make up and rear rack for my bike box.
Fit bike box and wire up rear lights - Rear light/Indicators/Brake light.
Fit and wire up trailer lights connector.
Get a bar bent to hold trailer hitch.
Wire up - Horn - Front light.
Re-fix/fit front left brake caliper.
Re-fix/fix rear brake caliper. Fit new Tandam brake cable that arrived last week.
Paint rear wheel.
Re-paint front wheel.
Sand down and paint the front forks black. Rechroming would cost me a small fortune.
Make up a phone & camera holder for handlebars.

Once all of the above is done and working ok without any hiccups... Strip down the whole bike and repaint it black.

RallySTX said:
Ah well, glad you bagged your ride, and fixed those pesky lipo's. Later mate, happy trails!
Brian L.

Im thinking of making a busbar to run my bike on, something like this...
picture-13.png

http://evmc2.wordpress.com/2011/07/10/copper-tube-bus-bar-idea/
for wiring up my lipos, rather than buggering about trying to solder a snakesnest of wires. I'll post up a photo when made and before I connect up any batts etc just to make sure with the boffins that all is well :shock:

I'd like to get a bigger motor, prob a 1000's watter. Possibly one like flyingmonkey has, thats if I can source one out? - ( he looks to get a fair turn of speed outta it ).
1000w 36v currie motor.
superkids_2165_6333668

FLYINMONKEYS THREAD.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/superkids_2165_6333668

On and on and on ... the list is endless

Win the lotto to pay for stuff and find time to do all of the above, without pulling the rest of my hair out :D

Regards
Tom

PS. Forgot to tell you thatwe have another Spoiler - Chopper guy/build in our midst....
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29206
 
Hello TC, loose contacts on that busbar will cause open circuits and resistance. That new motor looks promising. I hope your back isn't sore after that ride, mine would be killing me! Damb it, you stole my idea about the indicator mirrors! :evil: Thanks for the heads up on Manitu's Spoiler build. I sent him a hello note, so if he suddenly vanishes, make sure I get the credit. :shock: I mean blame!! 8) See ya mate.
Brian L.
 
GEARING - Cog/Sprocket/Chain help.

Can anyone help out with my gearing. Im running a 500w motor at 36V. At the moment im running an 11T mini moto cog on the motor and an 54T sprocket on the 20" wheel. I get around 22mph but my motor gets very very hot - so hot it'd take the skin of your hand. Iv'e tried varoius combinations of cogs/sprockets etc but just cant get it right. So before I go throwing good money after bad I'd like to know im buying the right combination of cogs/sprockets etc.

What I have in my bin of parts at the moment.

36V 500Watt motor 2500rpm. Rated Current 17.5A.
36v 800watt Controller.
11T minimoto cog, on motor.
8mm pitch minimoto chain.
45T mininmoto sprocket.
44T mininmoto sprocket.

16T LH Freewheel.
45T Sprocket.
49T Sprocket
BMX Chain

Can someone with gearing knowhow recommend the right cos/sprockets etc

Regards
Tom
 
TopCat said:
So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom


There is somebody on the For Sale thread selling 80-tooth sprockets. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29515
 
TopCat said:
GEARING - Cog/Sprocket/Chain help.

Can anyone help out with my gearing. Im running a 500w motor at 36V. At the moment im running an 11T mini moto cog on the motor and an 54T sprocket on the 20" wheel. I get around 22mph but my motor gets very very hot - so hot it'd take the skin of your hand. Iv'e tried varoius combinations of cogs/sprockets etc but just cant get it right. So before I go throwing good money after bad I'd like to know im buying the right combination of cogs/sprockets etc.

What I have in my bin of parts at the moment.

36V 500Watt motor 2500rpm. Rated Current 17.5A.
36v 800watt Controller.
11T minimoto cog, on motor.
8mm pitch minimoto chain.
45T mininmoto sprocket.
44T mininmoto sprocket.

16T LH Freewheel.
45T Sprocket.
49T Sprocket
BMX Chain

Can someone with gearing knowhow recommend the right cos/sprockets etc

Regards
Tom
Hi Tom, I hope the following helps: Assumption is that you want the top speed to be 22mph at 2500 motor rpm.

Convert to metric: 22mph x 1.609 = 35.4kph.
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter and travels PIx500 = 1.57m per rev, so at 35.4kph the wheel has to rotate
35,400/1.57 = 22,546revs / hour = 22,546 / 60 = 375.8 rpm. OK so far?

So 2500 motor rpm x 11t = 375.8 wheel rpm x #Wr teeth therefore
#Wr teeth = (2500 x 11) / 375.8 = 73.18 => use 73 teeth.

Will this reduce your very hot temperature? I don't know, but it should reduce it and your gearing will be about right.

Cheers,
GT
 
gtadmin said:
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter

He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;) ...

You can't get those motors that hot ToPcat, what your smelling is the coating
on the magnet wires burning, i would think you have all but killed it with
the gearing you have put on it, you should of left the front sprocket
alone bought a disk brake freehweel adapter and fitted that to the rear hub
you could then bolt your existing sprocket to it, retaining your original gear ratio..

You bought more LiPO :shock: duuude get some LifeP04 seriously... i forsee more bad things
in your future :lol:

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
gtadmin said:
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter

He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;) ...
Yeah probably, but the only size given is 20" so that's what I went with. A bigger diameter will require more than 73 teeth on the back. Tom?

Edit: I should also mention that the 2500rpm is probably the no-load speed, and we should use something like 90-95% of that for calculations. Anyway, it's a start.
 
jimw1960 said:
TopCat said:
So here's me thinking i'd need a smaller rear wheel sprocket but its a BIG one I need. I had a look around but couldn't find any? Anyone know where i'd get a 80T BMX type sprocket?

Thanks for any info.

Regards
Tom


There is somebody on the For Sale thread selling 80-too sprockets. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=29515

I contacted Bobc and he says that his sprockets fit an 8mm roller chain. Humm! I'd have to then also find a cog and chain for my motor.

gtadmin said:
Hi Tom, I hope the following helps: Assumption is that you want the top speed to be 22mph at 2500 motor rpm.

Convert to metric: 22mph x 1.609 = 35.4kph.
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter and travels PIx500 = 1.57m per rev, so at 35.4kph the wheel has to rotate
35,400/1.57 = 22,546revs / hour = 22,546 / 60 = 375.8 rpm. OK so far?

So 2500 motor rpm x 11t = 375.8 wheel rpm x #Wr teeth therefore
#Wr teeth = (2500 x 11) / 375.8 = 73.18 => use 73 teeth.

Will this reduce your very hot temperature? I don't know, but it should reduce it and your gearing will be about right.

Cheers,
GT

Hi GT, Thanks for trying to help out but sadly my math skills are non exsistant - I need to get naked to count to 21 :D
22 mph is the fastest I have been on my bike - so im told, using gps sports tracker etc. I'd like to go faster but I think I'd need a bigger motor.

AussieJester said:
gtadmin said:
A 20" tyre is 500mm diameter

He runs a 4.25in tyre i think it might be bigger than 500mm Diameter ;) ...

You can't get those motors that hot ToPcat, what your smelling is the coating
on the magnet wires burning, i would think you have all but killed it with
the gearing you have put on it, you should of left the front sprocket
alone bought a disk brake freehweel adapter and fitted that to the rear hub
you could then bolt your existing sprocket to it, retaining your original gear ratio..

You bought more LiPO :shock: duuude get some LifeP04 seriously... i forsee more bad things
in your future :lol:

KiM

Hey Kim, Yes I can get my motor very hot indeed. When I first setup the bike with the 11T minimoto cog on the motor and the 54T minimoto sprocket on the wheel it liiked like this...
espoiler2.jpg

I was running this on heavy SLA's that were past there best. I then got lipos (ooh dear :) ) and a LH freewheel/Tophat adaptor and sprockets from Sosauty...
Schwinn3.jpg

moved the motor and I tryed this setup...
5683915310_9a27e9b454.jpg

5683347875_cf080313e9.jpg

16T freewheel on motor and one of Sosauty's sprockets on the wheel, 49T I think it was.
A run around the block on this setup had smoke coming from my motor.
I then tried my hand at a jackshaft setup but that failed as it took weeks to get up to any kind of speed and the chains kept slipping off. So it was back to the 11T minimoto cog on motor & 54T sprocket on wheel.
I'll need to see about getting one of those disk brake freehweel adapters you mentioned?

Little update.
I have made up a makeshift battbox from some scrap wood 'n and old plastic shop sign, made a vent at the front to cool the controller - (pictures later). I'll make a better one once I can source out better materials. Done away with the big box on the back. Put my new rear mudguard on.
oh and Kim, I wired up all my lipos. I set them up like neptronix did... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28427&start=0
Made 3 serial connectors like so.
02_serialharness.jpg

Then a parallel harness.
30_monsterparallel.jpg

Hooked everything up and waited for a BANG!! No bang so I took a spin around the block, all ok. I wont know if the motor will get stingy hand hot until I go for a long run, which I plan to do today, as I have to go over to Stirling, which is about 7 mile. Around round trip of 12 to 14 mile - depending which route I take.

Back later with an update on how the run went.

Regards
Tom
 
TopCat said:
... Hi GT, Thanks for trying to help out but sadly my math skills are non exsistant - I need to get naked to count to 21 :D
So I've read :lol:
22 mph is the fastest I have been on my bike - so im told, using gps sports tracker etc. I'd like to go faster but I think I'd need a bigger motor...
Just did a quick calc and I think you are consistently pulling up to about 37A through your motor (which is rated at 17.5A), so you have 2 options: be happy with 20 odd mph and re-gear, or get a bigger motor.

Hope there's good news after your ride :: GT crosses fingers ::
 
Got to Stirling ok but the motor was still stingy - burn you hand - fry and egg on it HOT. The controller was cool - though it is now stuck behind a vent at the front of my batt box. I didn't make it all the way back (need a couple more lipos) and had to cycle a few miles. My legs n' arse are killing me, hence the chair and a cupp a when I got home. This bike was not designed in anyway shape or form for peddaling :roll:

Just back from Stirling, a sit down and a cuppa.
5998326143_a0202c6d99.jpg


Strip out the batts for recharging and take some watt meter readings.
The black plastic coated aluminium sheet over the back mudguard is for holding my new saddlebags. Still have a little work to do on it.
5998874526_ccf0ced026_z.jpg


Makeshift Batt Box with gold vent to cool controller.
I'll make a better one once I get some more materials.
5998874656_cf2d49c98e_o.jpg


5998326509_8d3c36f155_o.jpg


Lipo setup.
5998326665_772d8f8913_o.jpg

5998874982_e2106b88d1_o.jpg


Here are the readings from the Turnigy Watt Meter after my trip.

32.67V
15.027AH
41.72AP
565.6WH
1689.6WP
31.69VM

Whatever all that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me.

So it looks like im stuck with a hot motor until I get the gearing sussed out? but I eventually plan to get bigger motor.

Regards
Tom
 
TopCat said:
Got to Stirling ok but the motor was still stingy - burn you hand - fry and egg on it HOT. The controller was cool - though it is now stuck behind a vent at the front of my batt box. I didn't make it all the way back (need a couple more lipos) and had to cycle a few miles. My legs n' arse are killing me, hence the chair and a cupp a when I got home. This bike was not designed in anyway shape or form for peddaling :roll:

Just back from Stirling, a sit down and a cuppa.
5998326143_a0202c6d99.jpg


Strip out the batts for recharging and take some watt meter readings.
The black plastic coated aluminium sheet over the back mudguard is for holding my new saddlebags. Still have a little work to do on it.
5998874526_ccf0ced026_z.jpg


Makeshift Batt Box with gold vent to cool controller.
I'll make a better one once I get some more materials.
5998874656_cf2d49c98e_o.jpg


5998326509_8d3c36f155_o.jpg


Lipo setup.
5998326665_772d8f8913_o.jpg

5998874982_e2106b88d1_o.jpg


Here are the readings from the Turnigy Watt Meter after my trip.

32.67V
15.027AH
41.72AP
565.6WH
1689.6WP
31.69VM

Whatever all that means? Maybe someone can enlighten me.

So it looks like im stuck with a hot motor until I get the gearing sussed out? but I eventually plan to get bigger motor.

Regards
Tom

Turnigy readings

Volts
Amp hours (used)
Amps Peak
watt hours (used)
Watts peak
Volts minimum

KiM
 
Wow, you really have made progress man. I think that motor wil always be hot where it is now. Not enough air getting to it for one thing. A bigger motor might help, but that will mean more lipo too. You are running a 44v 15ah setup right? If so, that explains the range issue. As I read I learned that you can generally expect to have half the range in miles you have in AH available. So if you have a 15ah pack, you get about 7 miles in before the pack drains down. Considering the weight and drag of your bike, you are doing great except for the hot potato behind the seat post!
Sorry, I looked back and found you are running 5S3P setup. That's 37 volts and 15 amps. I am surprised it works so well. Charged to 4.2 volts is 42 volts, and that isn't much for such a big bike. Solve that heat issue, add two more 5S lipo, and you should be good to go. If you are putting 1600 watts through a 500 watt motor, that's why it's getting hot. You need a 2 KW motor for that baby! And find a way to direct some cooling air onto it, or it will always be hot.
Brian L.
 
I am joining you in a build of the same bike (mine is beginning missing a few bits) - I will go RC (Astro 3220 / 3215) drive using sensors, infineon and attempt to get my nominal RPM at the shaft up around 10K RPM (maximum power and efficiency)... I am planning a 12S6P 40AH Pack (the Zippy 6S 8000mah 30C packs) and have the packs, and most of the bits - the rear is a hub motor with a moped wheel built I believe by John Robert Holmes on a moped rim and with moped tire but I will be replacing that with as close to a 4/4.5" fatboy style as is possible.

Onboard charging should be around 1200w from 110v DC or approx: 24A into a 40AH pack so recharge normally via onboard charger will take approx 2 hours from empty.

I have a garage charger of 2400w now which works quite well (replaced the setting resistors of a 74v nominal model with a variety of digital pots to accomplish tuning of voltage on the fly) but requires 220 or it will toss breakers - this charges a 40AH pack of 12S at 48A which is just a tad over 1C and should work out to a full charge in about an hour with a 1/2 charge top off in 30 minutes (I hope).

My intent is to be on par with a Chevy Volt for versatility (yes I've thought of adding a gasoline motor powered generator - small, 1000w maxmimum for extended range trips).

I've still not found a replacement rear rim / wheel in any color for these, let alone the stock - also looking for a stock straight bar, came with monkey bars... I got ape hangers but they are too much and so now I have a straight bar on it...

The motor on the rear is currently a 9C from ebikekit (I got the bike from Jason) and other than a 5 minute putt around my neighborhood... .I tore it down to build it back up... problem is all the non-standard parts.

In either case - my rear will be either an Nexus Inter3 Disc Silent or if Gary Goodrum completes a process for mounting the new Nuvinci (much better range of gears) via a new adapter (he currently offers a nice freewheel adapter to be used to attach easily a #25 80t rear steel sprocket or others onto some of the 3 speed internal shifting hubs (must shift through the axle ends, if it pivots on the axle it won't work).
One thing that would be nice (gary depending on cost, I may be willing to buy sufficient quantity to make it cost fairly little to produce would be these adapters so they will accept the metric 30mm x 1.0 which will allow us to install freewheels with as few as 13t (odessy, I use with Recumpence v3 and v4 drives to increase maximum reduction as needed and to increase my pedal cadence multiplier as needed.

Well - I will be very interested to follow your thread and will soon be starting my own thread for this build.

The one thing I haven't decided, if I will try to register as an experimental vehicle in PA and add all the cycle style required safety equipment.

Good work so far on that build up by the way.... how fun is it to cruise about on under power, does it turn heads, do you get kicked over if you enter a biker bar?

Regards and Best Wishes!
-Mike

PS: I have a smaller version (between this and the boys, not schwinn but American Pogo Stick Company) which seems roughly (sans wheelbase) to be identical in most ways to these (not color scheme, this thing is blue with no suspension but has pegs, etc)... I will post pics of it tommorow in the daylight, I am happy to part with anything I won't need for my own build if it would be helpful to you (it will help me clean the yard)
 
RallySTX said:
You are running a 44v 15ah setup right? If so, that explains the range issue. As I read I learned that you can generally expect to have half the range in miles you have in AH available. So if you have a 15ah pack, you get about 7 miles in before the pack drains down.

I think you got it wrong. Generally, you can get almost TWICE (not half) the miles as your battery has in Ah for a 36v or 48v system. On my 36v15Ah, I regularly got 28 miles. On my 48v20Ah Ping, I have never run it to cutoff, but have gone over 33 miles without still plenty of power. Of course, this assumes running at moderate speeds around 20 mph with some pedaling on hills.
 
Thanks Jim, I am not an expert. I don't even have a finished bike yet. But I do know that terain, weather, vehicle weight, and rideing style all play a part in how much range you get,. My neck of the woods is quite hilly, no less than four 20% grades in town to choose from. Also I'm useing 20 inch rims with fat tires on my hubs. So in the interest of haveing a safety margin for riders, that is the formula I adopted. No harm in finding out you have more power than you expected, plenty of headaches for not haveing enough. Also as I can't pedal at all, I asume the other guy might not want to either. Trust me, on this, I would love to be wrong, but I feel confident that we are both right, in our own way. Good to see you Jim.
Brian L.
 
I'm joining the party - trying to source a few last bits to get the puppie back to mostly stock before I start a v4 Recumpence Build (may go v3 for a few reasons) using 3220 6T (6+hp continuous if needed) not that I expect to cruise that strong but it's nice to have just like a real bike...

The biggest issue I have finding now is a new, used, complete rear wheel or even just the RED rim which came with the Black extra large one (thing has a longer wheelbase than some harleys I've ridden).

If anyone happens to have a stock rear they would like to part with I'd be happy to make an offer?

Can't wait to see how the rest of your build goes !

Regards,
Mike
 
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