Yamaha YSR 50 conversion.

[Arlo1]

[Thud]

congrats!
I allways forget how small the ysr50 is LOL. but awsome fun on a kart track I bet!
i'll be looking for the next steps you take waking that collosus beast up & making it hammer.
the CF parts are going to be sic also....great build.

[Arlo1]

I just took two turns off the inductors and laid down 3.6 hp thats 1hp jump lol.

[Arlo1]

Almost double the HP in 24 hours! At this rate I will be at 27 HP by the week end

[Arlo1]

[Jay64]

Arlo, the first 2/3 of that video was like a kid with ADD. Can't decide where to pay attention to. Like the progress you've got man.

[jonescg]

Jay! Where have you been??

[Arlo1]

Ok so I decided to learn how to build a controller from scratch for this bike lol.
This thread is long overdue for an update. I will be pushing hard to get this bike insured and on the road very soon.
Here is where IM at. Best run 13.4hp at the wheel (DYNO reads low a 2010 YZ450F made 33 with a fresh motor and hi comp piston on my dyno)
There has been more then a few videos like this.


But soon I hope to make more videos like this

[etard]

Sturdy work man! Riding impressions?

[Arlo1]

Sturdy work man! Riding impressions?

Thanks. Although I'm just sitting on a frame lol. Its AWESOME! You can feel how great the little bike handles and partially because there is very little spinning weight to cause a gyroscopic effect so you can lean into and back and fourth very quickly. Its hard to explain but you have to ride it to understand.

The power is AWESOME and I make it better every time I work on it. Its not crazy power wheelie but its PULLS HARD. You can realy feel the power build as speed increases. Its a little (just a little) like a 2 stroke. But that will change as I play with phase amps and phase amplitude. IM working on 3 more levels of controllers at the same time! I should have something to melt this motor into goo soon enough

[Arlo1]

Got the variable regen working. IM just working the bugs out of the current sensing circuit for the dyno so I can measure efficiency while I make changes to find more power with different settings like PWM frequency before actually upping the power

[Arlo1]

[John in CR]

Great to see a solid power run with nothing letting the smoke out of itself. It looks like the Colossus needs a blower, but that's easy. The part I don't understand is the noise. I thought sine wave controllers were supposed to be quiet. A question about the Lebowski, is tuning possible in the form of timing advancement and/or retardation? On the fly?

I really like that little bike frame, but I need to make it larger just not full size. Your early pics in the thread for 3 years ago don't work, and I'll like to get enough of quality side shot to maybe copy it. Hubmonster would really turn it into a mini crotch rocket. What is the OD of the wheels you have on it now?

[Arlo1]

Great to see a solid power run with nothing letting the smoke out of itself. It looks like the Colossus needs a blower, but that's easy.

The PWM frequency at 14khz will cause more heat in the motor... Less in the controller. So new versions of the controller will have faster switching fets then I will UP the PWM frequency. I have not hooked up the liquid cooling yet... REMEMBER colossus is liquid cooled?

The part I don't understand is the noise. I thought sine wave controllers were supposed to be quiet. A question about the Lebowski, is tuning possible in the form of timing advancement and/or retardation? On the fly?

Noise is the harmonics in the motor for the most part. Its a DELTA wound motor with a big skirt bearing. There is other reasons for noise other than controller stuff. This controller is WAY quieter then a CHINA controller but I am also running 120% phase amplitude which gives a small amount of trapezoid wave added to the sine wave for more HP and higher top speed. (you can selsect this) I tested this for hours on the dyno to find what is close to the best.
Lebowski's code measures the inductance and resistance in the motor and sets the timing to the most efficient place for your motor. He told me how to change it but its highly experimental!

I really like that little bike frame, but I need to make it larger just not full size. Your early pics in the thread for 3 years ago don't work, and I'll like to get enough of quality side shot to maybe copy it. Hubmonster would really turn it into a mini crotch rocket. What is the OD of the wheels you have on it now?

I will try to fix pictures. Its a Yamaha YSR 50 with R1 replica bodywork im building with carbon fiber. The od of the wheels is 19"

[Lebowski]

Great to see a solid power run with nothing letting the smoke out of itself. It looks like the Colossus needs a blower, but that's easy. The part I don't understand is the noise. I thought sine wave controllers were supposed to be quiet. A question about the Lebowski, is tuning possible in the form of timing advancement and/or retardation? On the fly?

I really like that little bike frame, but I need to make it larger just not full size. Your early pics in the thread for 3 years ago don't work, and I'll like to get enough of quality side shot to maybe copy it. Hubmonster would really turn it into a mini crotch rocket. What is the OD of the wheels you have on it now?

In my controller IC you can change the inductance used in the FOC algorithm, but this is in the setup menu, not on the fly.

[John in CR]

Great to see a solid power run with nothing letting the smoke out of itself. It looks like the Colossus needs a blower, but that's easy.

The PWM frequency at 14khz will cause more heat in the motor... Less in the controller. So new versions of the controller will have faster switching fets then I will UP the PWM frequency. I have not hooked up the liquid cooling yet... REMEMBER colossus is liquid cooled?

Your liquid and the metal it touches are too far from the heat source to be very effective. Heat transfer is a relatively slow process, and our motors need cooling at the copper and the magnets. Don't get caught up in that trap due to your experience with ICE's. The delta T's and the temp of the heat source are too different, and to make matters worse your cooling liquid can't get nearly as close to the heat source like in the water jacket of a cylinder. I assure you that motor is best cooled by a strong flow of fresh air through the gaps in the stator and the magnetic gap, and it's easily accomplished with a proper set of radial blades. You're turning plenty of rpm to make it highly effective.

[Arlo1]

Your liquid and the metal it touches are too far from the heat source to be very effective. Heat transfer is a relatively slow process, and our motors need cooling at the copper and the magnets. Don't get caught up in that trap due to your experience with ICE's. The delta T's and the temp of the heat source are too different, and to make matters worse your cooling liquid can't get nearly as close to the heat source like in the water jacket of a cylinder. I assure you that motor is best cooled by a strong flow of fresh air through the gaps in the stator and the magnetic gap, and it's easily accomplished with a proper set of radial blades. You're turning plenty of rpm to make it highly effective.

John
#1 The guys in Croatia hooked up liquid cooling and did some testing at higher power levels then me and had very good sucsess with it.
#2 when I run 20 kHz pwm the motor only climbed to 50 deg! So Im not worried about it yet.
#3 Oil sprayed on the ends of the windings is the best it works better then air but this works best on inner runners I will try to make sure some air moves through the motor but as I am not worried about it because I will be only using this controller until I get the next one finished with a faster switching time for faster pwm.

[hillzofvalp]

I have to say, Arlo, this is a pretty frocking cool project. I am very interested in building my own controller, but I don't know where to start. Probably finish EE degree..