EZip - IZip 20mph Upgrade $20!

eBay has been cleaned out of the, (reasonably priced), ACS Southpaw 16T 1/2 x 1/8 freewheels.

54100.jpg


Still available here:

Stanton Inc.

And here:

Chain Reaction Cycles.Com
 
Some might fear that doing this 16T upgrade will result in a severe loss of torque!

The good news is that:
Upgrade results in a 25% speed increase, with a mere 20% loss of torque!

The Better News!
That 20% is at 0 mph, and as speed increases, that percentage of loss diminishes, till it disappears, at about 10 mph.

The Best News!
The 16T upgrade, actually increases torque, from about 10mph, and faster!!!
 
i cut my teeth on a izip and still have it
the older ones controllers were rated for 35 amps
and the caps were stock 63v
ran it on 2 yardworks lithiums in stock case then another now 62.4v
ran it for several thousand km
i wish i knew about this fw for even more top end
sounds like a angry hornet or wasp on 60v...mind the heat
i never modded for cooling
 
Previously, I had thought that there was some disadvantage to doing the 16 upgrade,
but now ... it seems, to be a win!, win!, win! upgrade.

More Speed!
Easier pedaling!
And ... MORE TORQUE!!!

With no significant downside!
(Minor torque loss, below 10mph. Single digit %, above 5mph.)
 
I am sure it makes life harder for the motor. Thats the main downside.. I'm not saying I wouldn't do this too. I probably would, but I would watch the heat.
 
20T vs 16Tsmall.JPG
Going from 20T to 16T ...
20/16 = 1.25 = 125% speed = 25% speed increase
16/20 = .8 = 80% torque = 20% torque decrease

Important to note:
Due to the "torque profile" - torque steadily decreases till a top speed is reached ...
At faster than 10.25mph, the 16T actually, applies more torque, to the road, than the lower geared 20T!

While at 0 mph the 16T has 80% torque of 20T, at:
2.5 mph the 16T has 85%
5 mph the 16T has 90%
7.5 mph the 16T has 95%
10 mph the 16T has 100%

In other words ...
The oem 20T freewheel would not benefit you, except accelerating to 10.25mph! ... or ... unless you take hills at less than 10.25mph!

Above 10 mph, the 16T greatly excels at torque production,
105% @ 11 mph,
110% @ 12 mph,
120% @ 13 mph,
135% @ 14 mph,
155% @ 15 mph,
200% @ 16 mph,
300% @ 17 mph!
Much beyond that, the 20T produces nothing, so comparison is not factorable.

Personally, I accelerate past 10 mph, in about 2 seconds, partial throttle w/pedal assist ...
 
Hi, Just built up an Izip using the 16 tooth mod. What a difference to standard. Thanks for the effort you put into the detailed description and photos.
For information my standard free-wheel came off using a BMX 4 lug removal tool (it had the notches already in) so no grinding. :p
 
marty izip said:
Hi, Just built up an Izip using the 16 tooth mod. What a difference to standard. Thanks for the effort you put into the detailed description and photos.
For information my standard free-wheel came off using a BMX 4 lug removal tool (it had the notches already in) so no grinding. :p
Click to expand...
Glad to hear it!
Does the new model Izip freewheel turn easily? ... Or does it feel like it is filled with tar?

Max pedal speed should be able to push you a bit faster.
For prolonged cruising, (better battery yet?), you might want a better ratio 7spd freewheel.
 
Hi Dark Angel thanks for the info. I got a freewheel from chain reaction $17 posted to Australia came in one week, so all good.

My Izip TrailZ I bought in 2010 the freewheel had no notches! Does it only work if u grind notches in the innermost circle and turn? I got the inner part turning where the 2 holes are and the wording that is turning clockwise but it still wont come off?

I will try grinding at a friends tomorrow but I don't understand how your second method with the park tool worked as that seems to be on the holes and wording part which is what I have turning around no problem.

also where does the washer go? :)

and yeah the original freewheel does feel like its full of tar the new southpaw is heaps better..cant wait for a souped up test run..

thanks for any help mate...
 
gmonster2 said:
Hi Dark Angel thanks for the info. I got a freewheel from chain reaction $17 posted to Australia came in one week, so all good.

My Izip TrailZ I bought in 2010 the freewheel had no notches! Does it only work if u grind notches in the innermost circle and turn? I got the inner part turning where the 2 holes are and the wording that is turning clockwise but it still wont come off?

I will try grinding at a friends tomorrow but I don't understand how your second method with the park tool worked as that seems to be on the holes and wording part which is what I have turning around no problem.

also where does the washer go? :)

and yeah the original freewheel does feel like its full of tar the new southpaw is heaps better..cant wait for a souped up test run..

thanks for any help mate...
Click to expand...
3 rings.
Outer, toothed, ring.
Middle, 2 hole, ring.
Inner threaded ring.

Park tool method works on new and slightly used wheels, only.
"Middle" ring is press fit onto "Inner" ring.

Notching inner ring will work.

"Spot" "tack" weld of inner to middle ring, then turn, should work.

Last resort might be to cut middle ring, then use vise, or pipe wrench on inner ring.

Cutting wheel notch, at inner-middle point, then insert flat screwdriver should stabilize middle-inner ring, for turning, also.

Note! A very good idea to pack around center bearing. Cotton balls? To prevent, grinding-cutting residue from invading bearing!

Correction!
Washer:
If you assemble with ACS freewheel, the removal notches (pawls) will hit against the motor mounting plate.
The washer is placed on the axle, between the freewheel and the motor mounting plate, allowing clearance and spreading the frame very slightly. ...... Sorry about earlier placement I recommended! Suffered a brain fart!

Note: All rear wheel work is much easier if you add the T-Plug connector to the motor, allows full assembly and adjustment before remounting on bike.
Also, check for alignment of chain, various freewheels seem to have a minor offset, motor bracket re-alignment, might be recommended. Much easier to do, before full re-assembly.
 
:oops: sorry, missed that bit in the abve posts! thanks for clarifying.
 
I ran into a 2009 EZip Trailz, that required motor mounting bracket "adjustment".
Currie XYD-16 Motor

I'm not sure how common this situation is, does not seem very frequent.
Out of 20+ responses, only 1 other person, has mentioned encountering this "problem".
 
DrkAngel said:
I ran into a 2009 EZip Trailz, that required motor mounting bracket "adjustment".
Currie XYD-16 Motor

I'm not sure how common this situation is, does not seem very frequent.
Out of 20+ responses, only 1 other person, has mentioned encountering this "problem".
Click to expand...

DrkAngel: I too have a 2009 Currie Ezip Trailz with the XYD-16 motor. I made the 16t mod and now have a clicking noise when the motor is used. The chain and sprocket look slightly out of alignment so I'm going to try the "S" shaped bend in the motor mounting plate. There seems to be a dead link to the image you posted once? Not sure of the exact location right now, but I was wondering if you could re-post the image so I can get an idea of how much I'm going to need to bend the plate.

To anyone attempting to remove a set-in flywheel, I strongly recommend a large strong vice. I bent the spanner wrench on first attempt. My vice isn't very strong. It wouldn't crush the flywheel, but it would hold it, so I cut a notch in the flywheel and stuck a washer in it to hold inner and outer rings together. Sheered the washer. Tried a screw driver bit and shattered that. Went to an auto shop and borrowed their vice. Took less than a minute to squeeze the flywheel tight enough (listen for crunching noise) and twist the wheel off.

BTW: Love the Sphere. The suggestions here are great! Love my eZip too. Looking at further upgrades next spring. Batteries and longer distance are my greatest concerns, now that I have almost enough speed.
 
When I did the S bend, in a vise, it bent under the gear portion of the motor.
Before reattaching the motor, I ground that area flush.

file.php


Highly recommend the T-Plug mod.
 
Standard motor freewheel is a 20T LHS and provides a 16 mph typical top speed.
I've only found 2 different compatible, replacements.

The first, the one I recommend, is the ACS Southpaw.
At 16T, it provides a 25% speed increase, (20 mph), and "notches" for easy removal.



The second is a 22T, available from Staton-inc.com, for a 10% torque increase, with a similar speed decrease.
A nearly identical construction, to the EZip OEM freewheel, goes on nicely, but requires a machine shop, for removal.



Click on above pictures, to access links.

I provide these links ... because some rear work, spokes, etc, will require the oem freewheel be destroyed, during removal.

See my post on broken spokes, and the cure?
 

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Thanks Drkangel, I,m going to try this with my ezip. I can only get the Fat southpaw ATM , would that make any difference?
Slats
 
slats said:
Thanks Drkangel, I,m going to try this with my ezip. I can only get the Fat southpaw ATM , would that make any difference?
Slats
Click to expand...
ACS Southpaw 16T is the recommended - 1/2 x 1/8
Do a search for "ACS southpaw 16T", more sources.

(14T will not work!)
(1/2 x 3/16 will not work, with standard eZip chain.)

Not sure what the "Fat southpaw ATM" is.
Can you provide a link?
 
Hi DrkAngel, thanks for the quick reply.
This is the link to chain reaction where they don't have any 16T in the southpaw anymore but they have a "Fat" version in 16T - which has something to do with "grinding" BMX from what i can work out. I think the teeth might be bigger or wider in some way to keep the chain on when the BMXers do tricks?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.aspx?Search=southpaw+acs+16T
Chain reactions would be the cheapest I can fine, even with posting from the UK.
I'm in Melbourne Aust and the postage from US for Amazon is about $100 for this $20 item. Other sites in Aust have the item as comparatively expensive eg $50 and postage $30 or $40. I might just have to bit the bullet because it sounds like a great mod.

Steve
 
Drkangel, Sorry, i just looked again and it is not 1/8th . It is 3/16th, so it doesn't meet the specifications. I'll keep looking . http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54098

Steve
 
3/16" is fine. i think they do this to allow for multispeed chain use. you can still use singlespeed 1/8" chain with it. i do not know what the "fat" difference is. the bmx grinding just refers to switching the chain to left side drive, which is what the southpaw was designed for.
 
slats said:
Drkangel, Sorry, i just looked again and it is not 1/8th . It is 3/16th, so it doesn't meet the specifications. I'll keep looking . http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=54098

Steve
Click to expand...
I don't believe that 3/16" wide will work with 1/8" wide chain ...
However, 3/16" chain should work with 1/8" motor sprocket ... ?

1/2 x 3/16, 415, 415H chain should be readily available.
 
Yes, thanks guys, that makes sense. 3/8" chain would fit the 3/8" freewheel and OK on a 1/8th motor sprocket.
Cheers,
Steve
 
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