The Mighty Volt wrote:Any advice you could give us??
docnjoj wrote:Greaat job John! this could be the prototype for all light motorcycles of the future! Really fine engineering.
RallySTX wrote:I can't stop drooling on my keyboard! That thing is efin AWESOME! All I can think is, [my God!] It's already beautiful man, but I admit your mention of a fairing has me curious. Can't wait for more pix. A ytube vid would be sweet! NICE WORK!
etard wrote:Great job John! I like the setback seat and the fairing is a natural touch too. We need a video to see this thing in action.
liveforphysics wrote:That bike is such a beast John! I love it!
You know, my last 3 builds have no had rear brakes on them at all. It's not smart in the event of a failure, but if the front is good, it's all I ride with.
This is by far the most powerful hubmotor bicycle ever seen on this forum, possibly the most powerful hubby bike in the world.
Nice job with it too! It looks great!
spinningmagnets wrote:I really like your seat position solution. There must be a dozen ways to accomplish moving the seat a little down and a little back, but that looks easy and strong. It probably shouldn't matter, but I think if anybody tried riding a bike with the seat lower and back some, they would love it more than they thought they would. I really like having my feet flat on the ground at stops.
Doctorbass wrote:John, i'm impatient to see your 60ft numbers
Total weight including the trike, me and the helmet is 260 pounds ( to give you some references)
Btw... i'm using A123 pack of 28s 4p.. not the Konions
John in CR wrote:I have no experience with decent bike shocks. Should I go ahead and order replacement rubber parts now...seals, rings, whatever? That Fox Float is like a cloud for me, and my greater mass must counter the effects of all that unsprung weight on the small bumps I've been hitting. The rear seems to take them better than the front, though I avoid big stuff.
John in CR wrote:D Keep in mind I want to retain a hand/arm position where I can push back to counter brake dive, which I really hate. I definitely need to experiment with one of the no-dive type of front suspensions.
MadRhino wrote:...no need to open it until it start losing air.
amberwolf wrote:John in CR wrote:D Keep in mind I want to retain a hand/arm position where I can push back to counter brake dive, which I really hate. I definitely need to experiment with one of the no-dive type of front suspensions.
I wonder...on a fork with a lockout, would it be possible to put a servo activated by the brake lever on there to engage the lockout, and disengage once the lever is released? (or by a separate button on the lever, in case there is a situation like braking during a driveway entrance or speed bump where you don't want the suspension locked out)
Or for pneumatic systems without a lockout, a tank/compresssor and valve system that is activated the same way, so it pressurizes the system to it's max, stiffening it greatly, during braking, and lowering it back to some preset value afterward? (the compressor would kick on every so often to keep the tank above the pressure needed).
John in CR wrote:MadRhino wrote:...no need to open it until it start losing air.
With my big load and the shock pumped to 250psi, would it gradually worsen or can something go all at once? ie Order a set now?
Also, can it run on little to no air on a smooth road or is that sure to cause damage? eg When I go to make a run at the strip, lower will obviously be better, so as long as it won't damage the shock I could bring my pump along to the track and let the air out to make some runs. Then just pump it back up afterward. I guess I could just drop the pressure way down and get the same lowering result without bottoming out the shock. Recommendation?
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