I'll have to look up "over-centered" as I don't know most suspension terms (thought I did once but keep finding lots more ).
Keep in mind that the swingframe doesn't actually sit down nearly that low now, as it does not have the yellow springs in there anymore, just the black one, which while shorter does not compress nearly as easily (850lbs/in). Because of the spring's limited compression range, I expect the full swingframe movement to be no more than it was on teh bike it came from, as it is the same size and type of spring used there. Only difference is that it is mounted on a much larger damper unit (mostly because the little MTB dampers I have are all junk, and would need serious rebuilding or modification to actually damp anything beyond gravel bumps. )
I don't know how much vertical travel the swingframe has at the axle, and don't remember what it was for sure on the original bike. . I am not strong or able enough ATM to compress the frame to see, or to hold it while I load it up with stuff that could compress it.
I guess I could just measure the gaps between the spring coils and then take the yet-to-be-welded front mount loose, and move it forward of the seatpost by that much. That would let me see the swingarm's fully-compressed position. Would that help?
Under normal laod of me and the bike/batteries/motor, I expect the bottom of the swingframe to be about level with the ground, maybe angled up a tad, kind of like the original bike it came from. (which is why the bottom of the red frame has to be higher in the rear than I show).
Keep in mind that the swingframe doesn't actually sit down nearly that low now, as it does not have the yellow springs in there anymore, just the black one, which while shorter does not compress nearly as easily (850lbs/in). Because of the spring's limited compression range, I expect the full swingframe movement to be no more than it was on teh bike it came from, as it is the same size and type of spring used there. Only difference is that it is mounted on a much larger damper unit (mostly because the little MTB dampers I have are all junk, and would need serious rebuilding or modification to actually damp anything beyond gravel bumps. )
I don't know how much vertical travel the swingframe has at the axle, and don't remember what it was for sure on the original bike. . I am not strong or able enough ATM to compress the frame to see, or to hold it while I load it up with stuff that could compress it.
I guess I could just measure the gaps between the spring coils and then take the yet-to-be-welded front mount loose, and move it forward of the seatpost by that much. That would let me see the swingarm's fully-compressed position. Would that help?
Under normal laod of me and the bike/batteries/motor, I expect the bottom of the swingframe to be about level with the ground, maybe angled up a tad, kind of like the original bike it came from. (which is why the bottom of the red frame has to be higher in the rear than I show).