sn0wchyld wrote:...24fet with a HT at 24s that things gonna fly if he can keep it from frying.
MadRhino wrote:sn0wchyld wrote:...24fet with a HT at 24s that things gonna fly if he can keep it from frying.
The 24 fet controller is too much for the H series Clyte, this motor can't take the current that this controller can deliver and it will have to be set low anyway. Even the 18 fet is alot, and can fry the H clyte in no time if used at its full potential. I have 2 H Clytes here, that I ride now with upgraded 12 fet controllers, for they can supply enough current to obtain the max usefull performance from those smaller motors. The advantage of the H clyte is to be able to build light weight with fair power, they will never be able to stand the power that we feed to the big X5, and trying to do so can only result in unreliability.
I find that 24s is perfect for me, and all my bikes are running with the same 24s battery configuration. The big controllers are with the X5 series motors, and I am hoping for an X 5404 this winter to be upgraded by Farfle, then powered with a big kelly controller. Nevertheless, I am very happy with my lighter bikes that have the H motors for they have better handling, and in the mountain trails handling often wins over power.
fractal wrote:... I like overdoing things and besides its all fun and its really cool
-Big air can extra lightweight shock like the Fox DHX 5 Air or Marzocchi Rocco Air.
-Magura Gustav brake calipers.
-Titanium nuts and bolts everywhere possible.
-Cane Creek variable headset.
-Race Face stem and handlebar.
-Shlumpf HS drive planetary crank.
I could suggest a few more, but just complete with the best fork that you can find and afford, then you will feel the real advantage of overbuilding.
MadRhino wrote:very good price for a DHX 5 air:
Manual for your Fox DHX 4 coil:
What you have to understand is that you want to use the maximum travel that you can without risk of bottoming the suspension. The weight of the hub complicates the setting, in the sense that an insufficient shock will work better with a heavy rider because it helps the damping, so setting your seat to the rear helps alot.
MadRhino wrote:Forget about jumping with a hub motor, one or 2 feet is max your wheel can take landing flat. If you're going fast in a slope, it can take a 3ft drop as long as your suspension is well set and you're standing. That is what my X5 builds take usually, with wheel trueing average weekly over a year. Sun BFM rim, 12ga spokes, 2.7 Kenda Nevegals.
MadRhino wrote:Forget about jumping with a hub motor, one or 2 feet is max your wheel can take landing flat.
sn0wchyld wrote:I got some footage with the new GoPro, which arrived on Saturday. If I can figure a good easy way of editing it ill get it uploaded.
GCinDC wrote:MadRhino wrote:Forget about jumping with a hub motor, one or 2 feet is max your wheel can take landing flat.
There's some hub motor/suspension/spoke/rim combos out there that handle big drops... key is finding the right combo. 14ga prolly not gonna cut it. what does the stealth use?
hey madrhino, what's the bike in your pic there? any other photos of that? RC build under there? what wheels? photos w/ that custom bike stand ok too..sn0wchyld wrote:I got some footage with the new GoPro, which arrived on Saturday. If I can figure a good easy way of editing it ill get it uploaded.
Looking forward to it! If you've got a decent internet connection, just upload it to youtube and edit it there. easy to make simple cuts..
hey madrhino, what's the bike in your pic there? any other photos of that? RC build under there? what wheels? photos w/ that custom bike stand ok too..
deepfraught wrote:Quicktime Pro is a good basic tool for conversion and cutting up .MOV and uploading to youtube. If you want to add anything more than that like titles and transitions or corrections, use it to convert to format of choice and go from there with your step-up editor.
Free too if you talk like a pirate Yarrr! Otherwise Apple are kind enough to slug you $30 for it =P
Was it the front or rear rim that copped the damage in the drop?
Any current pics of your road going setup prior to the wheel breakage?
sn0wchyld wrote:What do people use to protect their connections (namely those from the controller) from the eliments, and keep them all neat and tidy (ie hidden) For now I've just been using good ol' ducktape/electrical tape, but it then becomes a major chore to disconnect anything... Ive had a hunt around for some waterproof connectors but they dont exist locally, and I'd like to get this done in the next week rather than wait a month or more for shipping from china!
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