Tidal Force : "The Long Ranger"

[doc007]

Xray photos.

going through airport security should be fun!

get well!

[icecube57]

Xray photos.

going through airport security should be fun!

get well!

Its titanium. It shouldnt set anything off.

[icecube57]

Cast cut off at doctors office and removable cast.

[icecube57]

[ohzee]

wow just found this thread Ice - In the last post you made I was like wtf why is his arm looking so swelled..

now I know - I knew you were hurt some how , but not the extent of it.. Hope you are doing ok. I am ready to send
you some money for a new harness so hopefully that helps some.. Lord knows I appreciate what you do for me.

When you are ready to get a bike going again I will be happy to help however i can.

hope you are doing better bud.

[icecube57]

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Im bionic!!!..... unfortunately Im dark skinned too... but I seee you!

[GCinDC]

nice recipe & cooking, ice...

how much longer for the brace/wrist?

[Hyena]

Photo_00002.jpg

Im bionic!!!..... unfortunately Im dark skinned too... but I seee you!

Should this photo have the caption "when you see it, you'll shit bricks" ?
Interesting brace, hopefully you get it off soon and get back into action

[Spacey]

Top Video Icecube57, so how much does all this hospital care cost you in US?

[icecube57]

Too damn much...

Ill get a running tab later

[icecube57]

[icecube57]

What do you think of a rear Mac 66v 45A All metal gears.

Which Mac has the best copper fill..

[chroot]

Mac 8T has more copper strands but you might want ask Paul (Cell_Man).

[icecube57]

Im sorry I know I post alot but I realized that i was posting and resuming in a very old build thread and it seems more appropriate to pick up my build with my last bike and frame since it will be reused again. I will transfer everything into this thread. My apologies to the forum mods in advance.

[icecube57]

Remember Me. Im about to pick this build back up for health reasons. I need to loose some major pounds and to me a car or motorcycle isnt important cause i work at home and the Dollar General is less than a mile away. Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.

[icecube57]

Found a top frame bag that should shift alittle weight forward and it fits 12 packs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bike-bag-Bicycl ... 4167219522

I had the lumenator before. I dont need anything quite as bright but I found this... the price is right and a cheap mount I will be set for dusk riding. I havend decided if Im going to do DC to DC or just some 18650s.

[icecube57]

Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-C ... 19d226fcc3
Only because it seems a little bit wider than normal so it should have a wider stator and magnets... but the covers look recessed so it could be a placebo effect. Its for 150mm drop outs. It supposedly does 25mph at 36v i think. So it possibly does the low 30s at 48v. I plan to run at 66v possibly 88v with a Lyen controller. For the price its kinda low risk but then again I just hope everything is on the up and up. It saves me from buying a 7 speed free wheel. Not sure but I will probably vent it if it looks good. I was going to varnish the stator with the insulating varnish.

[icecube57]

Hyena wrote:

icecube57 wrote:Remember Me.

Nope



Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.

Yeah my car is quite the driveway ornament these days. It costs me more in insurange, rego etc than what it actually does to run for the amount that I use it.



icecube57 wrote:Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-C ... 19d226fcc3

Interesting, I haven't seen one like that before. It looks kinda like a crystalyte H40 but without any markings on the side covers. You'll have to bust it open when you get it and post pics. The disc brake mount looks to have good clearance too, almost like the moto/scooter spec hub motors. The controller also looks like a scooter style one. We'll need a peek-a-boo in there too
That's a good price if it is a beefy motor like that. I take it your bike can accomodate the 150mm drop out spacing ?

My Tidal Force currently has a 26 inch 150mm 7 speed QR wheel on there and it looks fine to accomodate this motor. I measured the the space between the drop outs with my tape measure and its 150mm with a non motor wheel. Ive had a 9C and an X5 with torque arms inside the drop outs so im sure the TF frame could take it .... I wanted to get a second opinion... I also considered getting the GM 901. I got a price of 180 plus about 25 shipping ... its a little bit hotter/faster motor with low 30s @48v i planned to run it at 66v and hopefully hit the low 30s to high 40s. But that ebay motor looks unusually wide which makes me grin but i hope its not a picture skew problem or anything... But if i get the ebay motor atleast i get a few trinkets ... still getting a lyen 12 fet probably what are your opinions ... I really dont think the pricing is right on the HT /HS even maxwells offer. I would pay for an x5 dont get me wrong im not cheap i will pay for quality. The x5400 and greyborg is to much of a lady for me but this ebay motor looks like the middle of the road like the one Hyena is testing out and i think the forum needs a guenia pig for this cause this might be a diamond in the rough.

[icecube57]

Rim does look narrow. I was gonna consider rim brakes but I cant with big apples. Not on a rim that narrow. well i could with appropriate pad spacers. I have some kool stop dual compound that will lock up a wheel. I could relace it but I need a DW rim with that deep V contour which make the spokes slightly shorter than the normal DW rims that we are used to. I have a 30-35mm DW rim from a previous build I probably want to relace it anyway. THink i might jump on the ebay one... itchy trigger finger... If you had a choice Hyena the 901 or this ebay one... Honestly...



I am now the proud owner of an I charger 306B. 1000w of chargin power....

Im now the proud owner of 20x 4s hard case packs. 20s 20AH 1.68kwh pack... dont know where its gonna go but its gonna be pimpin I may possibly do 16s but i doubt it.. looks like im getting panniers if i carry a full pack but the top tube bag should cary atleast 80% of my pack.


What ever i do its gonna be 4p something because after I test and cycle the pack about 3-5 times and group them together perma solder the outputs and the balance taps together uses way less materials. I wish i could do the same for the customer.. maybe start some pack building service where i do all the dirty work so you dont have to... buying testing cycling the pack grouping the packs... when I sat down and thought about my harness they are the shit when you dont wanna do the wiring yourself or your soldering skills suck but an insane amount of material is used and it does add some bulk... this pack is gonna be a kewl. I also realized that if all 20 packs come in ok and i run 5s 4p that I cant use my top tube bag... i can use the top tube bag for possibly shorter trips and run 4s 4p but 5s 5p has to be run in a pannier bag with 2s 4p on one side and 3s 4p on the other side.

dnmun wrote:

Hyena wrote:That one for sure. I'd guinea pig one myself if it wasnt for the steep international shipping.



anybody else wanna second us on the ebay H series knockoff?

that would make it a triple double, 3-2s to make IC do the EB deal for the C'lyte KO?

I hope you werent the "Bastard" =P that i outbidded and contacted the seller to start another auction so i could use buy now. Then he ended up closing the current auction i was winning and I won it since he ended it early. All and all i think i spent 255 shipped and if its what we thinkit is .... we would make out like bandits.

So i got this I charger 306b and she is a whore.... She puts out and asks questions later.... Also found out my car battery an old AUX battery(2nd battery in the Rear) I admit it is 7 years old.. I had in my car is a POS only deliver 6.8AH at 5A discharge.... Lame! But I also found out the Dell 700w power supply I have are amazing. One supply (No voltage trim pot) holds 11.9 when im only powering the charger with one. When the other one is connected in series I get 24.77v. The automatic fan throttling mod works like a champ... I hear the PSU ramp up and down with the load. Voltage is super solid only dropping 0.05v under full load. My hopes of using the battery to do regnerative discharge into is a bust. In theory i could use it to dump 1 5ah pack into it at a high rate. I suppose i could fast discharge it with a load bank but i think im going to cycle it through the packs with a internal discharger. 5A is 1 c on a pack when im hypermiling it will be barely 0.5-1A per pack cruising at 15-20mph in 4P and maybe 5A per pack in 4p with moderate cruising at 30mph so i think it would best simulate my usual/average riding conditions on my bike.

Ok upon messing with my power supply I found out that I can keep both supplies in series even though 1 is powered on and still power the charger. Although there is about a .7v drop when doing this everything supposedly work normal. Both power supplies plugged in get 24.77v and everything still works fine... I thought that was intresting. I havent put it under full load but i assume a diode is dropping the voltage and i probably should try to pull from the power supplies when they are wired this way with one disconnected or it might cook the diode... i dunno maybe someone can chip in on this phenomenom. Im actually charging in a spare bedroom cause i know the circuit is empty and can power the charge without it tripping stuff in my computer room. I got a 25ft usb cord going to the charger so i can run log view when checking stuff...

In other news I think im going to use a speedict instead of a cycle analyst. I really need a stand alone CA but when i look at the speedict and the additional features its a no brainer. GPS logger data logging on the rides... 80v supported but it can view up 100v Im staying between 16-20s so i should be good. I have an android phone... looking for the perfect bike mount right now... and it has a temp sensors plug in.... its like a wed dream. I wont pull the trigger until next week when i get paid... still on the hunt for a controller.I might have to go tried and true with the lyen. Im just holding off making the controller purchase until i get the motor and found out what im really dealing with so i can decide if i want to get the trusty 12fet or get the cherry popping 18 or even consider the 4115 18ft. I want to stay within the limits of everyth so im like ugh 4115 i can use the speedict ..trying to keep battery wiring simple.

I also found a pannier bag today... not to much bulk. perfect size for the packs.... I think imma use the top tube bag for short trips and the rear for touring. I may also purchase more 4s packs... 5 more packs for a simple 5s 1p pack for truely going to the store or short range trail riding.

I bought that 1000l flash light. I found a cell phone DC to DC to power it. I wanna shrink wrap it but i need some 50mm diameter heat shrink I might simply just get a small radioshack project box and put it in there and pot it with some silicone... Im also looking to find a rear light. Like one that senses braking and power it from the dc to dc also... i may just get a simple blinky flashy. Again my main focus was supposed to be trail/touring 40+ miles or more... with summer being hot here i will be riding closer to dusk... like 2 hours before night fall ... doing 20 miles out and back being a min distance.

I have to buy a new helmet. One thats suited more for regular riding. My motocross helmet is to big and attracts the wrong type of attention. Im trying to go stealth mode this year. Going for the minimal wire this time around use mesh shrink wrap. Use all black wiring and just color code the tips.

When i get the motor.. im going to molest it... I have clear sprayon insulationg varnish that im going to spray the motor with... Im going to consider venting it depending on how the contruction of the motor and side covers. If this motor is wide like i think it is and i wanna pursue more high power sustained riding i will vent. But if I just need to burst every once in a while it might need to keep it stock.... things are just evolving all the time with this project. Im trying to learn from my previous mistakes and not make the same ones again.

Also one thing im going to do is when i package my packs together...they are already hardcase so i dont need any hard protections but that tape from the gorilla tape really got on my nerves and left a horrible residue on the packs. Im going to pre tape with "Frog" Masking tape which almost has an adhesive properties like a post it not. sticks well and peels clean. Once i put a layer of that on the packs i prob will give it 1 good wrap of gorrilla tape.

My pack plans are to cycle them check for defects and make 4 packs. I will remove the 4mm bullets on the pack. Combine/parallel the four pack wires as if i was making a harness and have it out put to 1ft of 8G terminated with possible 5.5mm bullets. The balance taps will be paralleled on each of the 4 packs also. I will bulk charge all parallel pack sections and will only have to use 1 6 to 1 parallel cable to balance all 20 packs... using less materials less cable less connections to frock up when charging and discharging.

I think this completes my rant for now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-Celsius-KSD9 ... 4d019c2d91

Im going to put this inside the motor and use it 1 of 3 ways. Use it on the ground of the hall wired. To kill the motor completely.

Or with the 3 speed switch. When its tripped its open and closed when its not. so If i put it on speed 3... Speed 3 would be the high/top speed setting and if im pushing it to hard it trips open. This would effectively remove the Top Speed/Unlimited option temporarily and the controller would roll back to the default speed which will be programmed at 50% or less allowing you to limp home until the motor cools off enough and the switch will close again and you can resume you normal riding.

You could also prob use one or two of these at a different value and wired it to some bulbs to give you a warning light on your dash.... but i think the speed switch method would work the best...

dnmun wrote:disconnecting the hall sensor ground while the motor and controller are running may cause problems for the controller.

you maybe could accomplish the same thing if you ran the brake cuttoff line from the controller to the ground in the motor through your thermal switch.


I thought of the same thing it may have been first on my post it was last on my list tho...

Apparently my idea was flawed it cause fear on ES facebook if it was hooked up to the speed switch that if its in a tripped state and it untripped re-enabling Speed 3 ... thus removing the limp home governed mode that the sudden rush of power could be dangerous.... and the fact that it could trip and untrip at some unlucky momment which is dangerous also...I suppose the best way to prevent motor overheating is to not let it get to the over heated state but be proactive to prevent it from getting there. since im getting the speedict I think Im just gonna install the speedict temp sensor in the motor and run the wires out to the speedict.

[icecube57]

Santa!

[icecube57]

icecube57 wrote:http://www.ebay.com/itm/45-Celsius-KSD9700-NC-Temperature-Control-Switch-Thermal-Protector-140-Celsius-/330739494289?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d019c2d91

Im going to put this inside the motor and use it 1 of 3 ways. Use it on the ground of the hall wired.

Hyena wrote: You been spying on my ebay purchase history ?
I bought some of these same things a month or 2 ago and have them wired in series with the hall -ve. They're NC so for the most part you don't know they're there until they get too hot and go open, shutting off the halls. People will cry that it's dangerous if it cuts out etc etc but if you melt a winding it's going to cut out just the same, only you'll be pushing it all the way home - and against a fair bit of resistance most likely.
If you're going to run wires externally you may as well just hook it up to a buzzer. The whole point (for me) of using these internally on the halls is to save having to run extra wires externally. And on motors like the crystalytes where the wiring is easily damaged by removing the side cover it's good to be able to pop off the opposite side cover, yank the hall wires up, snip one and whack this in between.

Never mind the critics, they're often the same lot who are scared of lipo burning their house down

In a way i was still gonna do it... lol i think and wire it to the halls but im going to use my spare axle space for that speedict temp sensor

Hyena Wrote: If you're running wires for the speedict temp sensor then that's all you need

This time im going to over do things in all aspects... You get better the 4th time around... Over build and run it conservative but break the balls on it sparingly... i think this new motor is gonna be the shit tho.... cant wait to get it and crack it Imma strip it molest it upgrade phase wires and have my way with it... I wanna do a true upgrade of the phase wire but if im cramming extra wires down the axle imight not be able to.. so i may take the phase wires out the axle... take the low temp POS sheath off. Shrink wrap the phase wires like I did with my other motor this should protect them and allow me to run more current throught them. I was hitting and 4-6kw peak. With no issues with the phase wires doing that on my last build. The insulation wont get tacky and fuse together and short and allow enough extra space for the temp sensor. ofcourse the poormans phase wire upgrade hacked off a few inches outside the axle. I think imma use xt150s on the phase wires. 8G to the controller. Its nice being able to do quality wire jobs now. I think its gonna be a game changer for this build. Less complex battery wiring/rats nest. Im excited. Its almost been a year since my accident...

John in CR Wrote:Hyena,
I like the idea of easy access for the mod and no new wires to run out. A few things to consider are:
- Some controllers trigger regen braking with a cut in the halls power line
- 140°C is awfully hot, so placement at the windings is critical
- Shutting down the motor is the 2nd worse thing you can do when a hubbie is that hot. Continuing under heavy load is worse.

Hyena wrote: I'm using standard infineons for now, haven't heard of such a thing but that's interesting. These just stutter when the halls are cut. I've had loose hall plugs before while riding and it's not like the motor and controller are going to instantly self destruct. You feel the jerk/stutter and get off the throttle. Easy.
I agree 140°C is cutting it close, I'm actually using 100°C on mine and being on the conservative side. 120 would probably be a better middle ground but at the time 100's were available. Mine is on the windings but it's also close to the air cooling holes (which are over the windings) so that's another reason why I figure it's best to be on the safe side temp wise, as the air holes may cause the temp sensor to read cooler that what is actually indicative of the overall motors heat. On the last air cooled motor I did have a temp sensor in (and monitored it closely) it rarely got over 90C after feeding it with 4000-5000w. The hottest as you say is when you stop, which is a slight limitation of this method if you're planning to be lazy and get off the bike when it cuts out rather than continuing to pedal it. If I was stuck out in the bush (which is where I ride hard) I'd be tempted to add a jet of biological "water" cooling
I'd originally planned to use a NO thermostat hooked to an internal piezo buzzer powered from the hall voltage but coudln't find any rated to 100C +

But yeah, I see these as more of a last resort fail safe and really I only have one in my own motor to test so I can put them in motors for noobs. I've never smoked a motor, not even a 9C with 8kw bursts but give one to a noob and he'll find a way to kill it with only 3kw (I had a bloke recently who managed to burn a HT35 into oblivion with a current limit of only 45a)

I can cross the spedict off my list and cross the connectors and wire for my harness off my list. All i have to do now is get some torque arms... controller and ebrake levers a multi function switch...which i should be able to get from lyen.. rear panniers... off ebay

All voltages checked out good. Im top balancing them all and then im gonna do a full discharge to find any runts and find the lowest cell type up the info and put a small sticker with some clear tape with that info on it. But they are balancing quite welll. I charger makes quick work of topping of these cells... you know im raping them right charging at the full charging c rate...

[icecube57]

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[icecube57]

Pack cycling begins... first discharge cycle down on 1st pack 5A or 1C. Cell#2 is the runt...delivering 5Ah at 3.39v and 3.0v delivering 5.115AH. Im not going to post every pack but this is exciting being that i never owned an icharger or plotted anything on graph. At 25A 5C the pack went from empty to full on normal balance mode in 24 minutes Balancing took half of that time.. I took 5.11AH out and put in 5.144Ah

Im putting a tag on the packs with clear tape that has the runt cell # and discharge capacity information.


Also i found out at the max 30A rating my 12v Dell power supply can satisfy the Icharger charging at full rate on 4s battery packs so I dont need to use my louder... second power supply in series for 24v.

Ive found myself restarting the charge cycle a few times on my charge to get the most AH and closest balance possible. Ive cycled 4 packs so far. They all have given 5AH atleast. with 5.15 to 5.2 AH on their first cycle. There was my 4th pack that gave me only 5AH at 3.28v which is low compared to its previous tested pack and 5.065AH at 3v. So I charged this guy back up and kept restarting the balance mode charging every so many minutes to give that cell a chance to fall in line with the others. I stop doing it when the charger fails to start charging for more than 2-3 seconds. Im doing a second full discharge on this first ...somewhat runty pack of the group. I expect better results on this one. Atleast I should be able to get in the 5100+.

Im trying to figure out the best way to mate these packs... since teh will have known weak cells how do you pair them together. by capacity or dispears the weak cells evenly an let their fellow brother help prop them u. I am creating these into 4 pack cubes where the leads and balance taps will be solder togetther.

[icecube57]

My bike torch/ Flashlight came in today. It has an operating range of 3.2 to 8.4v. I had a Delta Electronics cell phone charger. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Electroni ... 5d33e3101c . This smps actual turns on in the high 20s. I took the case off and I was left with a bare board. I ditched the wimpy wires and soldered some silicone 14 gauge wire. I put one 4s pack across the input no go. I put 8s across the input and it turned on... success. I put two layers of shrink wrap over the dc to dc put andersons on each end. So i got that done... now to the flash light. It was straigh forward. Positive was on the spring of the led driver and the negative was on the spring of the screw on cap which serves as a switch to cycle between the modes. I drilled a hole in the case of the flashlight big enough to feed the two 14g wires through. I beveled the edges of the hole with a dremel to reduce any edge that could cut the wires. I fed the wires through fluxed and soldered the wires and closed her up. I put hot melt in the hole to act as strain relieve and to also prevent the wire from getting cut. Here are some pictures of the finished product.

[icecube57]