icecube57 wrote:Xray photos.
going through airport security should be fun!
icecube57 wrote:Xray photos.
icecube57 wrote:Im bionic!!!..... unfortunately Im dark skinned too... but I seee you!
icecube57 wrote:Remember Me.
Id rather wait for my wife to get home and go to the trail than have a car sit in the driveway getting less than 10 miles a week.
Yeah my car is quite the driveway ornament these days. It costs me more in insurange, rego etc than what it actually does to run for the amount that I use it.
icecube57 wrote:Im considering this motor right here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-C ... 19d226fcc3
Interesting, I haven't seen one like that before. It looks kinda like a crystalyte H40 but without any markings on the side covers. You'll have to bust it open when you get it and post pics. The disc brake mount looks to have good clearance too, almost like the moto/scooter spec hub motors. The controller also looks like a scooter style one. We'll need a peek-a-boo in there too
That's a good price if it is a beefy motor like that. I take it your bike can accomodate the 150mm drop out spacing ?
Hyena wrote:That one for sure. I'd guinea pig one myself if it wasnt for the steep international shipping.
anybody else wanna second us on the ebay H series knockoff?
that would make it a triple double, 3-2s to make IC do the EB deal for the C'lyte KO?
I hope you werent the "Bastard" =P that i outbidded and contacted the seller to start another auction so i could use buy now. Then he ended up closing the current auction i was winning and I won it since he ended it early. All and all i think i spent 255 shipped and if its what we thinkit is .... we would make out like bandits.
dnmun wrote:disconnecting the hall sensor ground while the motor and controller are running may cause problems for the controller.
you maybe could accomplish the same thing if you ran the brake cuttoff line from the controller to the ground in the motor through your thermal switch.
I thought of the same thing it may have been first on my post it was last on my list tho...
Im going to put this inside the motor and use it 1 of 3 ways. Use it on the ground of the hall wired.
Hyena wrote: You been spying on my ebay purchase history ?
I bought some of these same things a month or 2 ago and have them wired in series with the hall -ve. They're NC so for the most part you don't know they're there until they get too hot and go open, shutting off the halls. People will cry that it's dangerous if it cuts out etc etc but if you melt a winding it's going to cut out just the same, only you'll be pushing it all the way home - and against a fair bit of resistance most likely.
If you're going to run wires externally you may as well just hook it up to a buzzer. The whole point (for me) of using these internally on the halls is to save having to run extra wires externally. And on motors like the crystalytes where the wiring is easily damaged by removing the side cover it's good to be able to pop off the opposite side cover, yank the hall wires up, snip one and whack this in between.
Never mind the critics, they're often the same lot who are scared of lipo burning their house down
Hyena Wrote: If you're running wires for the speedict temp sensor then that's all you need
John in CR Wrote:Hyena,
I like the idea of easy access for the mod and no new wires to run out. A few things to consider are:
- Some controllers trigger regen braking with a cut in the halls power line
- 140°C is awfully hot, so placement at the windings is critical
- Shutting down the motor is the 2nd worse thing you can do when a hubbie is that hot. Continuing under heavy load is worse.
Hyena wrote: I'm using standard infineons for now, haven't heard of such a thing but that's interesting. These just stutter when the halls are cut. I've had loose hall plugs before while riding and it's not like the motor and controller are going to instantly self destruct. You feel the jerk/stutter and get off the throttle. Easy.
I agree 140°C is cutting it close, I'm actually using 100°C on mine and being on the conservative side. 120 would probably be a better middle ground but at the time 100's were available. Mine is on the windings but it's also close to the air cooling holes (which are over the windings) so that's another reason why I figure it's best to be on the safe side temp wise, as the air holes may cause the temp sensor to read cooler that what is actually indicative of the overall motors heat. On the last air cooled motor I did have a temp sensor in (and monitored it closely) it rarely got over 90C after feeding it with 4000-5000w. The hottest as you say is when you stop, which is a slight limitation of this method if you're planning to be lazy and get off the bike when it cuts out rather than continuing to pedal it. If I was stuck out in the bush (which is where I ride hard) I'd be tempted to add a jet of biological "water" cooling
I'd originally planned to use a NO thermostat hooked to an internal piezo buzzer powered from the hall voltage but coudln't find any rated to 100C +
But yeah, I see these as more of a last resort fail safe and really I only have one in my own motor to test so I can put them in motors for noobs. I've never smoked a motor, not even a 9C with 8kw bursts but give one to a noob and he'll find a way to kill it with only 3kw (I had a bloke recently who managed to burn a HT35 into oblivion with a current limit of only 45a)