72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong CA08 XM06AD_P04.1 controller

stewrobb said:
well because I have previous history with my other Hua Tong posts, didn't realize it had been split up. people were awaiting my response here. fair enough. So what I am wondering is are all Hua Tong's without regen after a certain date, or do some sellers on dhgate sell this one, and if so who? thanks,

Stew
There's at least 3 different models being sold as a 72v 1500W 40A Hua Tong OT100 controller. I have 2 of the original ones per subject line. I'm not sure as to the status of the other 2. I would suspect that they all support regen braking and it's just a matter of finding out how to enable it in the controller.. I've read it's not with the X pad on the one with the 4710 fets. Regen braking will not work on any of the stock ones if you use higher than standard voltage battery packs. It won't work with fully charged 20s lipo. It does with 18s. LVC is about 60V on this controller, so 18s works out perfectly for both regen and pack protection.
 
Good to know, I wonder if the same sellers have different models. Isn't the regen voltage proportional to the lvc? I am about to start running my 20s packs that I am building and require regen (broken rear drum brake). I hope this will be adjustable. Thanks

Stew
 
At risk of being yelled at by wesnewell, I just got the new board and the new plugs are reverse (black green) and three speed switch (brown black red).

Untitled.jpg
Going to replace the caps, vr circuit and mosfets and try to get support for 150V: wish me luck :D
 
cohberg said:
At risk of being yelled at by wesnewell, I just got the new board and the new plugs are reverse (black green) and three speed switch (brown black red).
Going to replace the caps, vr circuit and mosfets and try to get support for 150V: wish me luck :D
No yelling, but you should open it up and document what you have, board number, caps, fets, etc. if it's a different board, then you should start a new thread with it's number in the subject. I haven't seen one with the 3 speed switch and reverse connector coming out. I'm sure if you document where the wires go from those connectors, it will help someone. Would really be nice if it has this pcb in it.
 
I read this thread and ordered this controller, but it arrived with extra wires than what is described in page 5 post. I tried to wire it up and it does not work. The throttle position wire I believe may be backwards or something else needs to be plugged in? I have 5 wire hall sensor plug, 3 wires to motor, and 3 wire white colored plug to thumb throttle, and ignition RED wire connected to positive on battery. Is there anything else needed to be connected to operate controller? ...what do the other red plugs do?

I checked the controller with this http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Portabl...s=63&clkid=4078499369340164742#ht_3904wt_1185 and it doesn't respond to thumb throttle. I bought a new controller because old one would overheat and stop driving the hub motor properly, losing power and studdering until it would not work.
 
edit: the throttle is a white plug. did you mix it up with the 3 speed (red plug | brown, black, red)?

I believe that the throttle is wired up like regular. Green is sense, black is GND and red is +5V. Also something that might help is to pull the controller apart and look for the status LED. It'll tell you via blink code what the problems (if any) there are.

caleb said:
I checked the controller with this http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Portable-E-bike-Brushless-Motor-Controller-Tester-/250919544203?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D250905322582%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4078499369340164742#ht_3904wt_1185 and it doesn't respond to thumb throttle.

I don't really know what specific fuctions your tester has, but if anything i don't think you would testing your controller. You should be testing your throttle/hall/phase to see if it is functioning normally. Not the other way around.
Maybe i'm just understanding you wrong but the way i test is i get a 10K pot and just use that as my simulated throttle, less variables I guess.

caleb said:
what do the other red plugs do?

As to the other red wires the 4 (3 populated) pin is alarm the 2 pin is pack voltage and the 3 pin is speed switch.
iovaykind labeled it all minus the new plugs
xp4j6c.jpg
 
On mine HuaTong throttle connector was wired up wrong way, so I had to swap black and red to get it working.
 
here is my controllerebike controller.jpg

i tried to switch red and black wires on throttle controller 3-pin connector. I cannot get the motor to spin...any other ideas? I am only using 48-60 volts currently, does that matter on this 72V controller? I have 12s or 14s lipo configuration.

I am plugging in:

5 pin sensor motor wires
3 pin thumb throttle
3 phase wires to motor
2 pin voltmeter
1 bare red wire thought to be "ignition" or torn ON switch tied to battery positive
2 ring terminals red/black to battery plug (now deans connector)

not sure why its not working...

thanks for reviewing and any ideas...next idea is to disassemble and review wires on circuit board. but i still don't have a diagram showing what goes where yet.

edit - right side of photo yellow block should say "3wire to thumb throttle"
 
If you're using 12s or even 14s i believe that you're hitting LVC.

Untitled.jpg

cohberg said:
pull the controller apart and look for the status LED. It'll tell you via blink code what the problems (if any) there are.

8 blinks in a row is lvc.

It be helpful if you listed what you have (motor, throttle, etc)
 
You need at least 16cells or 18cells. volts supply must be above 75v to see motor runs smoothly. when the battery volts is supply 60v or 62v will power off - with this 72v controller. since this controller can accept 80v, it will be definitely alot of interesting and FUN !!
 
caleb said:
i tried to switch red and black wires on throttle controller 3-pin connector. I cannot get the motor to spin...any other ideas? I am only using 48-60 volts currently, does that matter on this 72V controller? I have 12s or 14s lipo configuration.
It won't work on anything less than 15s lipo (63V). I'd consider 18-20s optimum and 24s the max. I run a 10ah 18s pack and a 5ah 24s pack.
 
wesnewell said:
caleb said:
i tried to switch red and black wires on throttle controller 3-pin connector. I cannot get the motor to spin...any other ideas? I am only using 48-60 volts currently, does that matter on this 72V controller? I have 12s or 14s lipo configuration.
It won't work on anything less than 15s lipo (63V). I'd consider 18-20s optimum and 24s the max. I run a 10ah 18s pack and a 5ah 24s pack.

Mine cutted off slightly below 63 volt before changed the lvc resistor to 2k, now the cutoff comes in about 36V. :)
 
which is the resistor is the LVC , i will like know. how how to change them ? kindly show some photos so, i will really like to try it out. i think is really good for us, everyone will like to try out lower voltage 48v pack.

thanks !
kent
 
kentlim26 said:
which is the resistor is the LVC , i will like know. how how to change them ? kindly show some photos so, i will really like to try it out. i think is really good for us, everyone will like to try out lower voltage 48v pack.

thanks !
kent

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31946
Changed the resistor A from 1.2k to 2k, the first link has the pictures and from there the third photo has the marks for A and B. :)
Remove the smd resistor(1201) and replace it with standard thread or film resistor.
I've tested the controller on table with adjustable voltage supply and tomorrow it'll go to my e-scooter(48V or 60V, haven't decided yet).
 
Ok, thanks y'all! I didn't read enough to realize i was below LVC. I will try it at 18s...oh boy! I have the 901 motor from golden motors, looks like the conhis motor 48v1000w. I ran it at 12s lipo for 1000 miles, then went to 14s to use with the wall charger that came with the kit. Bought a Ping BMS for 14s, so would prefer to use that voltage. Once I test the controller at 72V, I will read how to mod my controller's LVC for 14s..

cheers
 
caleb said:
Ok, thanks y'all! I didn't read enough to realize i was below LVC. I will try it at 18s...oh boy! I have the 901 motor from golden motors, looks like the conhis motor 48v1000w. I ran it at 12s lipo for 1000 miles, then went to 14s to use with the wall charger that came with the kit. Bought a Ping BMS for 14s, so would prefer to use that voltage. Once I test the controller at 72V, I will read how to mod my controller's LVC for 14s..

cheers

On which voltage you prefer the cutoff with 14s? I could run a test and measure resistance 4 u, if fast reply. :)
~1.7k would be around 42 volts.

fault codes I detected(on table testing)
1 flash, Throttle undervoltage
2 flashes(or dimmed), switch/wakeup undervoltage
8 flashes, Feed/Battery undervoltage(lvc)
 
On which voltage you prefer the cutoff with 14s? I could run a test and measure resistance 4 u, if fast reply. :)
~1.7k would be around 42 volts.

I am looking for 42 volts cutoff (under load I presume). thanks for help with the resistor sizing. now have to go over weblinks to find where to install it..
 
The mod you are seeking to lower the LVC of the controller in question is here: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=26306&start=60 i.e. "Changing the LVC in a 72v generic controller"

I have done this mod also using the 5k pot and been running fine for two weeks now. Changing the smd resistor was too fiddly for me! The measured resistance is about ~2kohm to lower the LVC to work with a 48v 20ahr Ping.

DSX
 
To those following the new controller, I have pictures but not much more. I was wrong about it just populating the unused pads in the 2nd generation board. This new board is a complete redesign and now there are a lot of new pads to decode.

Difference noted thus far are: C-D3.1 board, different IC, new 4.3V power supply for the throttle (for safer 24s operation), a 15V supply, 63V supply, Functions 1-8, SL, DS, XS.)
I haven't tested any of them, just modded it for 60A and slapped it on my bike. And no, I haven't tested if there is regen, but even if there was it wouldn't help the 2nd generation guys because the chipset is different =/

I think for brevity i'm just going to upload the entire photoset to picasa and if you guys are interested you can do through it there.
 
caleb said:
On which voltage you prefer the cutoff with 14s? I could run a test and measure resistance 4 u, if fast reply. :)
~1.7k would be around 42 volts.

I am looking for 42 volts cutoff (under load I presume). thanks for help with the resistor sizing. now have to go over weblinks to find where to install it..

The LVC resistor change pic:
pic2.jpg


Modified shunt blew my controller :D
pic1.jpg

pic3.jpg


Tin-plating melted and caused the motor run only with two phases, so I removed the tin and tested
the controller and boommmm, little bit of fire and smoke, lol.
So what was the lesson, DO NOT use tin to modify the shunt of this controller. :D
 
How much you've added to shunt thickness to cause FET(s) to blow?
 
Finzent said:
Tin-plating melted and caused the motor run only with two phases, so I removed the tin and tested
the controller and boommmm, little bit of fire and smoke, lol.
So what was the lesson, DO NOT use tin to modify the shunt of this controller. :D

I modded my shunts on this controller by covering all three of the shunt wires completely in solder. Upon throttle up the motor would sputter briefly and then the controller would reset. I removed most of the solder and just left a bit of solder at the both ends of the shunts. I have confirmed that the current limit has increased to above the stock 40A (battery current) but I hesitate to throttle-up much beyond 50A at this point as I think I may experience the same fate as you. I am in the process of scoping the phase current to get an idea of what the FETs are experiencing. I will post once I get some meaningful results.
over
 
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