Detecting counterfeit 4110 mosfets

not that "P" as in irfp4110, that means lead free, the 'p' in second line, at right hand side, it gives location of where fet was made.
 
Exactly! Check the document in the link I posted. :)
Check out the Note: "P" in assembly line position indicates "Lead - Free" text and the image in the upper right.

The "P" in the product number has nothing to do with the FET being lead free. If it has a "PBF" suffix, then it's lead free. For example "IRF1405" vs. "IRF1405PBF". Some FETs might be only available in a lead-free version and might skip the "PBF" suffix altogether, I don't know.

For the IRF1405, the difference between the IRF1405 and the IRFP1405 is the case style. The IRF is TO-220, the IRFP is TO-247.
 
damn, there goes that way to determine where manufactured!! bugger
that is a shame, seems is going to be very difficult ( if not impossible ) to know source just from markings, unless assembly lot code can be used somehow?
 
IMHO, it's really not a problem.
You just can't trust a FET that's not from a known, reliable source...no matter what the markings. :)
 
Hello.
I bought these 4110s.
They are really cool. My test showed RdsOn approximately 3mOhm.
 

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Hmmm, interesting...
The ebay page shows, IMHO, a genuine IRFB4110.
But based on the photo of the one on your meter, I think he sent you counterfeits.

What current were you running through the FET when you got that 3mOhm Rds-on value?
What was the temperature (roughly) of the FET?

I'm curious how your FETs compare to the genuine and counterfeits I tested (earlier in the thread) at 10A and 20A.
 
FAS ( shame the video didn't have english! what language is it..russian?)
if its genuine it throws out the window everything we've learned thus far on identifying them, I would be guessing non genuine at this stage, I'll open up a genuine one and see what the insides look like and post here if I have success, maybe useful to see the insides.......no idea really
 
CamLight said:
Hmmm, interesting...
The ebay page shows, IMHO, a genuine IRFB4110.
But based on the photo of the one on your meter, I think he sent you counterfeits.
What current were you running through the FET when you got that 3mOhm Rds-on value?
What was the temperature (roughly) of the FET?
I'm curious how your FETs compare to the genuine and counterfeits I tested (earlier in the thread) at 10A and 20A.

I tested the same FET that is on the attached foto.
As my video shows , I put 1.12A (from 1 li-ion cell with 3Ohm resistor) into FET and measure 3.3mV at pins close to FET body, and 4mV at end of pin (only one pin has 0.5mOm resistanse). temps around is 30°C.

I do not have another type of 4110 for tests.
 
FAS said:
CamLight said:
Hmmm, interesting...
The ebay page shows, IMHO, a genuine IRFB4110.
But based on the photo of the one on your meter, I think he sent you counterfeits.
What current were you running through the FET when you got that 3mOhm Rds-on value?
What was the temperature (roughly) of the FET?
I'm curious how your FETs compare to the genuine and counterfeits I tested (earlier in the thread) at 10A and 20A.

I tested the same FET that is on the attached foto.
As my video shows , I put 1.12A (from 1 li-ion cell with 3Ohm resistor) into FET and measure 3.3mV at pins close to FET body, and 4mV at end of pin (only one pin has 0.5mOm resistanse). temps around is 30°C.

I do not have another type of 4110 for tests.


Your picture definately shows a counterfeit FET.

You gotta pass some stronger currents through them to get some decent voltage resolution in the resistance reading.
 
liveforphysics said:
Your picture definately shows a counterfeit FET.
You gotta pass some stronger currents through them to get some decent voltage resolution in the resistance reading.
OK, I will try high current test later.
 
FAS said:
I tested the same FET that is on the attached foto.
As my video shows , I put 1.12A (from 1 li-ion cell with 3Ohm resistor) into FET and measure 3.3mV at pins close to FET body, and 4mV at end of pin (only one pin has 0.5mOm resistanse). temps around is 30°C.

I do not have another type of 4110 for tests.
Sorry, I gave up trying to interpret the test conditions in the video as soon as I realized I couldn't speak the language. :)

As liveforphysics mentioned, you need much higher current levels to calculate the on-state resistance accurately, at least 10A IMHO.
A 20A test would be nice too.
 
A little up date on identifying fake 4110. There are now several Chinese manufacturer's which make a 4110 with the little notches in the side and the molding mark in the center. Because I was searching for information, one of the companies selling on DHGate sent me an email offering 4110's with two pictures. The first picture was a bunch in a tube with "made in Mexico" stenciled on the tube. The second was of an individual 4110 which was slightly different than the ones in the tube. The molding mark is higher up on the FET and the notches in the side are slightly different. They do not appear to show any copper colour anywhere on them.
 
Folks... Buy your IRFB4110's from well known American companies. You should not have to pay much more than $3 each - not worth the risk and wasted time to try and save $12 by buying them from ebay or China.

-methods
 
Guys, do you think this 4110 is genuine?



It has copper visible on the sides of the heatsink, black moulding on the back, black notch on the front of the heatsink, and writing looks as if it's genuine.
 
bobale said:
Guys, do you think this 4110 is genuine?



It has copper visible on the sides of the heatsink, black moulding on the back, black notch on the front of the heatsink, and writing looks as if it's genuine.

I will go out on a limb and say no. The extra marks on the side and the molding mark being visible from the front, does not look right.
Also, look at the first post in this thread and compare.
 
I'm not sure do I need better glasses, but genuine 4110 in the first post looks exactly like this one I've posted. Molding mark is also visible on the genuine one, and you mean whan by extra marks on the side?
 
I put the genuine and unknown pics side by side,
only difference is in the writing style and placement, I haven't seen any clones with the black moulding before, I would think maybe genuine,
genuine has 920P and unknown 029P which might be a typo? , if its a clone its a damn good one,
testing breakdown voltage or resistance would be good tests to do

clone maybe.jpg
 
According to this

file.php


920 and 029 are production year and weeks, and P is factory code, so they were made in the same factory.

Thank you for putting them side by side for me. Aside from different font, I can't see any other difference. Also, the price is almost $4 a piece, so they are not exactly cheap.
 
Look at the boldness of the printing of the suspect fet? Look at the 411o not 0 in the typing. The 11's are smaller than the 4 and the "o" is a letter, not a zero. I just re-read the entire thread and IIRC the P DOES not mean where it was made?
 
Why then does it say (in the official package description) that the last letter is the factory code?
 
whatever said:
I put the genuine and unknown pics side by side,
only difference is in the writing style and placement, I haven't seen any clones with the black moulding before, I would think maybe genuine,
genuine has 920P and unknown 029P which might be a typo? , if its a clone its a damn good one,
testing breakdown voltage or resistance would be good tests to do


Observe that the legs on the genuine one are better.
 
whatever said:
testing breakdown voltage or resistance would be good tests to do
I agree.
Trying to figure out whether it's genuine or not by appearance is not a good idea. It's not hard for any number of counterfeiters to get this right. The tests are simple and, IIRC, the results are pretty clear.
 
It takes about a hundredth of a second to laser etch anything at all on a mosfet as it passes under the laser scribing machine on it's little conveyor belt leaving the tinning bath.

I would not use appearance of what is printed to be any evidence of a positive genuine FET. If the writing is badly screwed up, you could use it as evidence of a fake, but just because it's right does NOT make it evidence of a genuine part. If you can make a transistor and own a laser scribe, you can sure as hell get what is printed on the face to be a dead-nuts copy with 5 minutes of effort.


I have an excellent test rig at the moment to do some voltage vs leakage current tests, a 6.5digit precision nano-amp meter, power supplies, and 6.5digit DMM's, and precision shunts and precision current supplies.

I will try to get some numbers up for genuine IR 4110 parts sometime this week. I do not have any fakes to test, so somebody else will have to take that on.
 
liveforphysics said:
I will try to get some numbers up for genuine IR 4110 parts sometime this week. I do not have any fakes to test, so somebody else will have to take that on.
I did a bunch of tests with all those FETs that were sent to me, should still be up here somewhere.
 
another test is a destructive test, I did break open some fake and genuine 4110's a long time back, there were some differences internally,
but its a bit difficult to open them up and see the internal layers/wires, but it is another option.
 
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