Racer_X
1 kW
From my point of view it almost looks like it was that axle that gave in more to the failure? What does the forum think?
Crystalyte use them on the new Hx35 series
LI-ghtcycle said:100% agreed there Doc! Mild steel is worthless with out some heat treating if your going to get some real serious power going, and yours are a bargain! Too bad I need both 12MM and 14MM sizes.
Hmm maybe you can shrink one down for me, after all, you have everything in that amazing shop of yours right? So a shrink ray to make some into 12MM would be no problem right? :lol: :lol:
NeilP said:Yep, too thin..I thought so before I used it...that is why I never used it before..it just looked too thin and weedy for anything.
Seems like I am repeating myself here..ot trying to sound rude..because it is not meant that way..but read all my previous posts...a scrap frame dragged out of the scarp trailer..and that is where it is going back too, it is bent any way, it was only brought out along with that hub motor as a test bed for the controller
I actually never pulled off from a standing start with it, I always pushed off with the feet first, got coasting before tuning the 'throttle'
Even before I started I was not happy with the little torque arm.
I also left plenty of slack in the phase wires..to allow any wind up ..as seen int he first pictures. The axle did not as much spin..as chugg its way around in small steps ..
Both frame and torque served a purpose..for a moment at least..now they are destined for the scrap
View attachment 4
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
View attachment 1
The only "heat treatment" you can do to "mild steel" is case hardening, which only gives a surface hardening of about 0.2mm deep...like a thin hard crust on a soggy pie ! ...not very useful for this situation.LI-ghtcycle said:... Mild steel is worthless with out some heat treating....
Doctorbass said:LI-ghtcycle said:100% agreed there Doc! Mild steel is worthless with out some heat treating if your going to get some real serious power going, and yours are a bargain! Too bad I need both 12MM and 14MM sizes.
Hmm maybe you can shrink one down for me, after all, you have everything in that amazing shop of yours right? So a shrink ray to make some into 12MM would be no problem right? :lol: :lol:
Please give me the dimension of the axel cross sectional area and i'll see what i can do
Hillhater said:I think it odd that you posted this before you know how it failed. ?
It would have taken less time to run that axle nut off and pull the torque plate, than the time taken to snap the pictures. !
Why not find out how it failed and then post, rather than all this speculation ! ??
That is a real problem, with many recent DH bikes having 150mm dropout width.NeilP said:...Axle length was the only thing stopping me go any thicker
icecube57 said:But still why are we dissing this torque plate when it was install on a motor with fairly round axle flats and its 12mm vs the 14mm which the torque arm was designed for. Looking at the spin out damage on the torque arm shows there wasnt much contact area. It properly fits a GM a NC and x5 motors. Two of these Amped bike torque arms bolted in the torque arm slot of the TF Frame in tandem with the aluminium rear drop outs was sufficent of holding the X5303 at 88v and 125A producing 260nm or 191ftlbs of torque. I admit one is SKETCHY but i take two in between washers for the win.