dogman wrote:Perfect frame really. Just bolt or weld angle iron to the dropouts, and convert it to a pinch style dropout. screw the factory torque arms. It should corner really smooth with the battery there, possibly a tad low, but definetly carried good in the center.
Here's my 1/4 thick 1" x 1" angle pinchers.
dogman wrote:...screw the factory torque arms. ...
spinningmagnets wrote:This isn't a common shape of frame, but I like it a lot. Regardless of battery chemistry, that is a great place to put the weight. It seems that male bicyclists in the USA still do not want uni-gender frames, and this seems to be a good compromise that allows a low top-bar for a comfortable stand-over height, while still "looking" as strong as traditional male frames.
edit: Nice upgrade on the gas shock, I hear they are a big improvement (though pricey)
nicobie wrote:I wonder where a guy could find one of those?
joe tomten wrote:I do in fact want to weld something together, and my eye is on a 20 or 24" wheel, suspended longtail thing.
This is a great find, and the dual tube battery carriage and x-frame support structure makes a whole lot of sense.
Been collecting a few craigslist steel frames to start practicing on. But the whole suspension situation is a little overwhelming to jump into without a physical model on hand to relate to.
That along with the desire to do something w/regards to a jig set up that would help me keep the whole thing under control during setup and brazing.
spinningmagnets wrote:I don't want to sound like I'm being picky about a great frame, I just want to take this opportunity to point out some things I think will be useful if someone wants to weld up something similar.
Some frames have the pivot for the rear suspension arm ON the rear sus arm, and some have it on the main frame. By having it on the rear-sus arm, chain stretch and derailler cycling is reduced when the rear-sus arm cycles during compressions. As another option, if the pivot is on the main frame, it opens up the option for a BB_drive, and giving the motor some gears (at least two, and 3 is better) dramatically reduces motor+controller heat, and also spreads out the motors performance envelope across a wider range of speeds.
Another minor frame-choice variation is the rear-sus arm that is shaped like an "on its side" letter C, with no lower chain stay. A chain doesn't need to be broken or re-linked to take it off or on, plus...the lack of a lower chain stay also means its easier to experiment with a variety of non-hub solutions.
Concerning the two top bars, I like the shape because it allows a battery cradle that loads and unloads from the top, A minor variation that I want to suggest is a longer head tube to give that joint better strength, if the head tube was two inches longer, the two top bars could be two inches higher, and I would go so far as to suggest using ractangular tube for the two top bars rather than the common round tube. That would be just as strong, and slightly thinner while allowing the same width of battery pack.
Either way, I am glad to see frames like this being produced, and I will point to them as examples that have specific benefits that should be more appreciated...
mushymelon wrote:Great start Brentis. I've got mine stripped down and taking measurements. Two 6s lipos fit perfect side by side in the frame, two high possibly three high under the seat. Im thinking 24s3p. Every time i read the lipo threads, I get a little overwhelmed. I hope the Zephyr is finished soon.
Im thinking of modifying the front of the frame where the steer tube is to accommodate for dh triple crown forks. looks may improve too.
Kitchen workshop thats great, my shop is freezing right now.
This is great inspiration, should be fun to see how these Stong builds turn out.
Users browsing this forum: rcanytime and 6 guests