after having bought myself the new Crystalyte HT – motor, a lot of things keept me rather unsatisfied. So in order to find happiness some modifications have been done and are still in progress. Episode 1 includes the fabrication of a bigger axel so 10 awg phase wires could be fitted. This also called for a modification of the motors side covers. The 24 fet lyen controller used at 87 volts squeezes 120 amps into the coil. Resulting in a tremendous heat build up inside the motor. Since i use it on my stealth bomber there´s a lot of space left compared to the X5 that the bike was originally fitted with. Episode 2 will include more pictures and a detailed explanation of the manufacturing process of the entire motor housing. What i never liked was the wobbling of those motors. I spent a lot of time adjusting the side covers prior to enlarging the ball bearings seat for the first pimp. So what´s he up to? Well, i won´t say for now, but i´m hoping that the new motor casing will solve the heat issue without the need for water cooling.
Wow, now that´s bad. A seal that runs over the phase wires and those sharp edges of the axel. Sorry, but that´s just crap und nothing else. Look at the damage on the phase wires. This motor only ran for a few minutes. After hearing a squeaking noise i took it apart and found this. That´s a fault that can´t be excused.
So let´s remove all that junk we don´t need anymore. The axel was pressed out using hydraulik pressure. The pieces on the right side where used to exert pressure only on the welded ring in the motors center. You must take extreme caution not to damage the windings in any way.
To center the motor in the bombers swing arm an axel was made with enough axial play to be able to freely slide the motor from one side to the other. Once centered i measured out everything and made that axel.
What a difference when compared to the flimsy stock version. I used M14 threads on the sides instead of the M12. My bearings are bigger too, there´s loads of space now to easily pass those phase wires plus the 5 smaller ones for the halls.
The coils center bore was to small for my new axel. I used a dial indicator that i could turn around the coil using the shaft on my drill. This is very important. You must, by all means, drill right in the center of the coil.
Yup, that´s how it´s done. The ring in the center prevents the two fixing arms from touching the coil. Drilling the hole to 29 mm now was a piece of cake.
Just a picture of the side covers with bigger bearings. The stock ones are those to the right of the new version already mounted in the center.
Another dial indicator was used to align the side covers prior to enlarging the original center hole.
Finally done!! The thing still works and now those 10 AWG wires can really take current. I´ve just ordered a massive block of aluminium. Stand by for the next Crystalyte pimp coming soon....
Too bad, I really like the work you're doing here- I wish there were a hub motor for sale now that's really worth pimping like this! (Maybe the croatian motor, but it's so big and expensive!)
