Harold in CR wrote:
Have you converted the TV and Fridge to run directly off 12V or, do you run Inverters for those appliances ??
12V Fridges don't exist down here, and, I would like to use 12V to run the Compute/modem, and TV, besides all the lights.
Just finished cutting up big chunk of Pork, using the lights from my homemade LED bulb and UPS battery.
Harold in CR,
Here's a quick rundown of the 12 volt side of the system here:
I have a few televison sets. One is a run of the mill color 12 volt CRT from about a decade ago. The other two are lcd. One of those came manufactured as a 12 volt tv with an ac adapter (it's an RCA). I can run it direct into my 12 volt outlet so no ac necessary. If you find a flat screen tv that has an external ac adapter, simply look at the output of the adapter and you might find one that is 12 volt - there are many around (eBay rings a bell!)
12 volt fridges don't exist here either. After many unsuccessful attempts (or marginally successful attempts) at building one from junk parts, I splurged for a Sundanzer (made by Electrolux). Is is truly an energy miser by design. It is now about 9 years old and have had zero issues - it hardly ever runs. It will also run directly off the two wires that come off a solar panel with nothing else between the two.
Most any laptop is a good choice for a 12 volt system. If the laptop is not 12 volt by design, then simply to find a laptop car adapter (12 volt cigarette lighter type) for said laptop (or a universal adjustable voltage one) and you're in business! For several years I've been running an ACER laptop in this manner that is also hooked to an external HP flat screen monitor that is also running right off the 12 volt feed (it's ac adapter had an output of 12 volts so it was great candidate!) Internet cable modem is a motorola and it's ac adapter output is 12 volts so it now is running direct off the 12 volt dc feed lines.
Next to the ac powered led room lights, are also 12 volt direct fed led lights. All the 12 volt led lights are on pwm dimmers.
The circulation pump which is used to dump hot water from the woodstove heated tank into a 40 gallon secondary tank is an El Sid (uses a 10 watt driver) and is hooked direct to a 12 volt feeder line.
For times when I am not home, there is a Multi-Camera day/night cctv surveillance system (all 12 volt) and I can access it from any internet connection. It has a small 10" flat screen tv/monitor also. The 12 volts to the flat screen is dropped to 9 volts per it's power requirement but still dc direct.
The recumbent power-generator is 12 volt, and the am-fm stereo/mp3 next to it is 12 volt automotive (Kenwwood!) hooked to some casket sized speaker boxes. It sounds every bit as good as the ac powered separate component Technics home stereo that sits on the next shelf down.
Two 52" ceiling fans are also 12 volt (speed adjustable and reversible) use only a scant measured 7 watts, and come on automatically in the winter when the ceiling temp hits about 72 or so... or with a bypass switch.
The Go-One3 has a 48 volt system - however - I can charge it with one simple hookup directly from the 12 volt feeder line.
If my car battery goes dead, I can just jump it with the house (both are 12 volt!). If by some miracle the house bank goes dead, I can jump it with the car!
I still use the inverters for: the wash machine, woodsplitter, and mig welder (although I do have a dc direct welder/battery bank charger that runs right off the Listeroid).. The inverter run time is very minimal (possibly a total of an hour a week maybe.)
At one time I thought about having the woodsplitter with a dc motor but after some use, the ac motor is handier if I need to take it elsewhere where ac is more readily available...
This is a bit long winded but wanted to give an idea of what the pieces are for anyone thinking of going 12 volt. The 12 volt side is very hearty with a proven track record. I no longer worry about inverter failure.