Just wondering what the best checks are for a broken MAC. It was working perfectly at first, and on the first proper run today, after 20 minutes it started stalling on take off, which could be rectified by closing the throttle then opening it again slowly. This got steadily worse until the motor stopped working altogether.
It was running at 60V with a max amp on takeoff of 55 initially but the stalling was happening at high 30's. *****UPDATE*** Note that this is well above the recommended volts/amps for a MAC! Paul did tell me but some of us need to learn the hard way... The overall results were that the halls were cooked, the windings are cooked but still ok[Further edit: windings are knackered- it still works but gets very hot. New stator will be going in], wiring inside the motor was cooked/melted and the controller got fried after a hall line melted into a phase wire and got 50-60 volts through it (not good for a 5V hall sensing circuit). The good news was that the new grey gears and clutch assembly are all good with the gears able to handle over 3KW. Once repaired, and with a new controller (mine was the older style EB212 which are known to be alot harsher on the motors), I will limit amps and I have no doubt it will be reliable. ***** I've also amended the thread title to more accurately reflect the scenario...
The wires aren't melted, as far as I can see at this stage, the motor itself wasn't that hot and the controller was ok as well.
It's a 320 wind MAC rated for 48V with a 12 FET controller all supplied by Paul.
The motor is now completely cold and still no action whatsoever.
What sort of tests should I be looking at? Continuity on phases, hall sensors, controller.........
The resting draw on the system has increased from .03A to .05A now- not sure what this indicates.