Kingfish wrote:miro13car wrote:You want dealers to demand quality from China manufacturers?
You got to be kidding.
The first responds from manufactureres would be that they are going to increase prices.
No way you can have all your suggested improvements and still $200 USA dealer price on even medium size hub motor, even manuactured in China.
Anyway almost sure those improvements cannot be done in existing plants, no machinery
Name of the game in China brand manufature is - use cheapest parts and materials possible/
When I worked for the toy company many moons ago I wanted to make the batteries fit into the compartment in one direction; make the toy so that there was no +/- pole swapping. It turns out that this can be accomplished for ONE penny per unit; a single wire is all it takes. I told my boss he could take the penny out of my paycheck. Management agreed it was silly to save a penny for the trouble it caused consumers, so I got my wish.
Let’s evaluate the cost of my proposals:
Or maybe we are! Maybe we are just that weak, stupid, and ignorant. BTW – I have some swampland in Florida I would like to sell to you. And whilst I’m at it, lemme sell you some unprotected motors that don’t exactly fit your standard, and we won’t guarantee quality either, but you are going to buy them cos it’s YOU (the general consumer) that are cheap cos you are eager to put up with it!
- Sealing the stators is like adding a coat of paint, one thick coat, or maybe two thin ones. The cost is less than a quarter dollar per unit at 10,000 units/month. Gosh, no more rust, and way-happy consumers. Was that expensive to accomplish? No – it’s easy-peasy, and I know China can do it cos we’re already getting starters and alternators from them.
- Venting: The hub covers are cast aluminum. Mod the mold for say - $1000; it’s probably a lot less. It’s just an insert into the mold; they do it all the time. Part is now vented at the seam along the periphery. This is their design flaw: They should eat the cost.
- Axle bearings: There are two bearings per motor. One is a sealed bearing, and the other is not: It uses a rubber seal that costs nearly as much as the bearing. Get rid of the unsealed bearing and rubber seal and replace it with a sealed marine-grade bearing. Money is saved, enough I’d wager to pay for the two fixes above.
- Connectors: Gosh, if they use the USB Mini-B along with an APP clone connector, well – the Mini-B is pre-formed in massive counts, and all they have to do is snake the other end of the cable through the axle and mate it up with the HE sensors. Money is saved cos they don’t have to assemble the Molex connector. And money is saved cos they don’t have to add the nut/washer; they can just remain packaged in a plastic bag tossed into the box. Man – we are saving money left and right! Let’s spend that coin on upgraded phase wires; should only cost us about another quarter dollar.
- Disc Brake interface: Once the unit is assembled, during the functional Q/C test, take 1.5mm off the flange side where the disc is going to mate so that it is FLAT and PERPENDICULAR to the axle. Not a big expense; maybe takes a dollar to do that step, maybe… They have to Q/C the motor anyway so that they know it works, at least – that’s what we do in my country. And as for making the motor compatible with American and European calipers, well we are back to the business of making product that matches our market. If they can’t swim in our pond, if they can’t cook in our kitchen, then THEY NEED TO GO HOME and think about who they are trying to sell to cos we’re not a bunch of idiots…
I’ve been an engineer for over 30 years. I’ve quit jobs if I thought the client was deceitful. I won’t make or ship shit that I wouldn’t buy. My role in this hobby is to learn. Make something work off-the-shelf. Great, now I’ve done that. Now I am paying the price for choosing these particular motors. But let’s make one thing perfectly clear: What other country is making this class of motor for bicycles? Germany? Japan? United States? Maybe in limited quantities… I struggled to find them. The practical choice came down to Crystalyte, 9C, Bionix, Golden Motor… Not a huge selection out there.
As I said earlier, I’m ready to build my own motor. The links to that study are in my sig. I only want to make two: one for the front, and one for the rear. I want to go fast! I want to be free! If it works and people like what they see, well – that could be another project.
The continuing saga of the motor R&R:
- Second coat of Rust-Mort has been applied this evening. I decided to do this outside under cover from wind and rain. It was far less stanky. I waited a bit before bringing the stators in. The change is not obvious since the remaining rust is slight.
- Also tonight I treated the rotors for the first time. I’ll upload pictures when they dry.
One step at a time.
Thanks for the support and encouragement, KF
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