[SOLD OUT] Brain Box - New ebike computer/throttle

[adrian_sm]

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[EDIT - 19-07-2012] All alpha brain boxes have sold out.
See this post for more details
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[EDIT - 24-04-2012] I have edited the thread title, and modified this post to let people know that the datalogging features has been removed, as well as the temperature sensor. The features worked but we ran into memory limits that stopped more important features being introduced.
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Foreword: This first post maybe tweaked over time, to keep any updates in one spot, or fix any errors.

For sale is the Alpha release of the Brain Box, a new ebike computer/throttle interface/datalogger.
It has been specifically designed around the Commuter Booster friction drive, but can be used stand alone much like a Cycle Analyst but with full data logging capabilities, including temperature.
([EDIT - 24-2-2011) DATALOGGING AND TEMP SENSOR ARE NO LONGER OFFERED )
The Commuter Booster is for sale in a seperate thread.



The hardware currently consist of:
- a single button interface for throttle, and computer navigation/programming
- a 8x2 LCD display (with optional back light)
- speed,voltage,current,temperature sensors
([EDIT - 24-2-2011) TEMP SENSOR IS NO LONGER OFFERED )

Key Features:
- Bar Graph battery guage, auto resetting
- single button throttle interface (suits drop or flat bars)
- user settable min & max assist speeds
- two user settable power limits, easily selectable during ride
- cruise control
- usual ebike stats (speed, volts, amps, watts, wh/dist, dist, time, watt-hours, Min Volts, Max Amps, Max Speed, Max Power, Avg Speed
- new ebike stats (temp, distance left, average power consumption, trip #, Bat Cycle, Life kWh, Life Dist)
- small (very unobtrusive on the bike)
- user adjustable PID loops for both power and speed (factory settings tuned for 300-100w setups)
- true power limitting, not amps (so true power limit is maintained even as battery voltage sags)
- friction drive optimised motor engagement/disengagement, minimum speeds, and power limitting refines friction drive package
- simple intuitive throttle & menu interface
- microSD datalogging, records summary trip stats & real time stats to seperate files for each trip automatically
([EDIT - 24-2-2011) DATALOGGING IS NO LONGER OFFERED )

Specs:
- 10bit sensor precision
- Max Voltage: 78V
- Max Amps: 90 Amps
- powered off ESC BEC 5v

Upgradeable:
- upgradeable. Firmware can be upgraded via MAC or PC and the supplied miniUSB cable. Based on Arduino uC so easily hacked.
- schematic will be made available
- Note: Brain Box source code will not be made public at this stage. Sorry.
- Spare IOs still available for future expansion
- screen uses standard HD44780 interface, and code design to allow easy expansion to different screen sizes. So a 16x2 screen is electronically a relatively simple upgrade in the future if people require more screen realestate. Or 20x4 for that matter.
- If I ever plan to permenently stop developement, I plan to make all source code public, so others can implement any changes they require in the future.
- I plan on listening to peoples feedback from this first batch, and implement changes. So here is you chance to get the ebike computer features you always wanted.

Planned future developements:
- analog throttle input/output to suit hall/pot throttles, and normal ebike controllers.

Price:
- AU$140 + shipping
- unfortunately these are quite time consuming to assemble, but it is still cheaper that a CA and Analogger.
- If you are not interested in the datalogging or temperature sensor, I can probably drop the price down a bit, let me know.
- If you think you can make these chepaer let me know, as I would be happy for someone else to make the electronics hardware for me.
- If I get enough interest then I can hopefully scale this up and get custom PCBs made, and hopefully make it all more cost effective.

To place an order send an email to commuterbooster@gmail.com. With the following details.
- Quantity required
- Name
- Address
- Any special instructions

If you buy this and the Commuter Booster all you need to do is get a motor($60+), ESC($35+), batteries, some miscelanous wires and you will have one of the lightest weight high performance ebike kits available in the world.

I'll be updating the Commuter Booster website soon to reflect all the latest developements.
Also check out the videos on the Commuter Booster Youtube stream which shows all the steps off putting a complete system together.

- Adrian

Here are a few more pics, and videos.

[adrian_sm]

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[adrian_sm]

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[adrian_sm]

Hi everyone. I have had quite a few emails to get through from a great response. So please be patient as I get through to yours.

I'll post answers to any questions I recieve that I think others will be interested in soon.

Thanks for your patience.

Adrian

[ohzee]

looks slick I am impressed.. hope this isnt a dumb question , but how do those friction drives handle water & mud ?
Do you totally have to stay out of any type of water with them ?

thanks

[adrian_sm]

Here are the answer to some frequently asked questions I have had.

Is it water proof?

Yes. It will be rain proof, but not high pressure hose proof.

Can I use different battery connectors?

Yes. Let me know what you would like. If I have them in stock I will put them on, if not I will send it with bare wires and you can install your own.

Can I get different length wires?

Yes. The throttle, wheel sensor, and cable between head unit and main unit should suit most bikes. But you may prefer longer lengths on the battery/ESC wires in/out of the main unit, just let me know what you need.

And more a Commuter Booster Question:

how do those friction drives handle water & mud ?
Do you totally have to stay out of any type of water with them ?

The friction drives are really suited to on road use, and don't like rain as it reduces the maximum torque the drive can transfer. It is possible to adjust the engagement to compensate but there is a limit. With grip tape on the motor can they can handle light rain. But they are definitely not the drive you want for off road muddy rides. Then you should stick with a more conventional ebike drive.

[adrian_sm]

I ride during the night every day to go to work, so I would need the backlight. What is the cost?

Backlight is just adding two wires in the head unit and is no extra charge. This means that you will have the backlight on whenever you have the system power on, ie the ESC is powered up.

You can open it up and add a switch to allow you to turn the backlight on and off if you like.

In your post you say you will implement hall input and output later. Do these input and output will be compatible with the current brain box, or I will need to buy a new one?

I have not finalised how this will be done yet. But it will probably require soldering three additional wires to the uC, drilling a hole in the enclosure for those wires to exist for a new analog throttle input. Then just use the existing throttle output, which may require reterminating for the correct throttle connector. If you are handy this can all be done yourself, then I would send through new firmware and instructions on how to install it. This keeps the old push button throttle for menu navigation, and possible as a secondary digital throttle.

[adrian_sm]

to what extends can be set the current limiter?

The BrainBox adjusts the power (not current limit) so no matter what the voltage sag of the battery, you will still get the same power at the wheel. The adjustment is in 1 watt increments from 1 -> 9999 watts.

How long will the batteries last? Is it worth spending more for the newer Nano-Phosphate LiPos?

I just recommend the 20C Turnigy LiPo as that is what I have done all my testing on, and what I have experience with. I am not an expert on batteries, and have not done extensive testing so I am sure there are better and worse options out there. But I believe the upfront price/performance of the 20C Turnigy batteries is pretty good. As for Life, and the price/life I am not as sure. But if you can afford the better batteries go for it. It will always be better to go for a lower resistance battery that takes advantage of the advances in the chemistry, like the Nano-phosphate turnigy cells.

I typically run on 5s (~18.5v) and 500w ( 27Amps) on a 20Ah battery, so only 1.3C which is very gentle on the batteries. You could just as easily run of a single 5Ah pack @ 6C. But then it might be more worthwhile to go for the better LiPo like the Nano-Phosphate stuff.

[deVries]

- friction drive optimised motor engagement/disengagement, minimum speeds, and power limitting refines friction drive package

1) Not sure if Kepler ever developed a device to optimize ramp-up or max throttle of FD motors to prevent ESC damage or other issues? Do you know?

2) Will your device be generic "enough" to use on any FD using any ESC to adjust settings to prevent ESC damage? Amp & voltage or power limits or ramping power levels?

3) What about using your device with Burtie's optical sensor device? Advantages or disadvantages?

4) Any plans to offer higher amps for more powerful ESC such as CC HV160?

Great to see a new product so well designed for "alpha" release. Best of luck & continued success with this.

[adrian_sm]

1) Not sure if Kepler ever developed a device to optimize ramp-up or max throttle of FD motors to prevent ESC damage or other issues? Do you know?

Just caught up with Kepler recently. He has his interface in limited production, but tends to sell them with his eBoost units as quickly as he gets them in. I don't know a lot of details about them, but our devices are quite different ways of approaching the same task. His I believe by default matches motor speed to tire speed (plus a bit) when you hit the throttle button, then multiple presses after that increase speed. So I think it is more of a set speed type throttle, with a fixed max power limit enforced. It also reduces the max current at lower speeds.

The BrainBox takes a single button press to ramp up to the set power limit. This controls drive engagement, and will constantly tweak the throttle for you to target the set power limit. Then a momentary release switches to a cruise control mode, allow you to maintain you current speed. Or quick double release and hold of the button will go into turbo mode (a second higher power limit), for when you hit a big hill, want to chase down the bike in front, or just feel the need for speed.

On both our interfaces the main way we protect the ESC from damage is to enforce a minimum speed, before the ESC can lay down the power. The worst scenario for the ESC on is high load at very low speed. On mine this is an adjustable speed, so you can effectively turn it off if you are happy your ESC can handle it.

Oh and max throttle is not limitted as such. There is a PID control loop that adjusts the throttle based on the speed or power target, so it can be anything between 0 and 100%, which is needed when your ride speed approaches the no load speed of the drive.

2) Will your device be generic "enough" to use on any FD using any ESC to adjust settings to prevent ESC damage? Amp & voltage or power limits or ramping power levels?

Yep, it will definitely work for other friction drives and ESCs. Infact I already have a couple of people jsut buying the BrainBox for other friction drives setups. The ESC just needs to provide the 5V or will require and external BEC, the calibration may need to be adjsuted to suit the 5V voltage, as all sensor inputs are relative to it. But as I said before the only real protection for the ESC is limitting the minimum speed. Most of the protection it provides is for the motor by limiting the power. As well as the efficiency, tire life, slippage improvements by limitting the power.

3) What about using your device with Burtie's optical sensor device? Advantages or disadvantages?

I am not that familiar with it, but from my understanding it is for sensored ebike style controllers. The alpha Brain Box is currently design for sensorless RC type controllers. The next release may have an analog throttle input and output, which could then be used with Burties device.

4) Any plans to offer higher amps for more powerful ESC such as CC HV160?

Sure. I can make one for 180 Amps, just don't have the parts in stock. If anyone is interested let me know. Just remember it is still 10bit resolution so the higher the amp rating the lower the resolution/accuracy. That is why I decided on ~90 amps as this is designed for <5kw setups.

Great to see a new product so well designed for "alpha" release. Best of luck & continued success with this.

Thanks. It has taken a lot of time, especially to incorporate all the data-logging features. Which has been really useful for my work in improving the Commuter Booster, but I am not sure how much others will use it. If not a lot of people end up using it, I may drop that feature which will free up a lot of memory space to be able to add other features people may want in the Brain Box.

I have already had a number of requests for modifications to the features, and display. So feel free to let me know what you would like. The requests so far are:
- different display pages
- analog throttle in
- analog throttle out
- power limiting based on temperature
- max temperature stats
- backlight on by default
- higher amp capability

Cheers,

- Adrian

[adrian_sm]

From a number of emails I have received.

How can I use a normal twist/thumb/analog throttle with the commuter booster?

The brain box is currently optimised for use with the digital button throttle. In the future I will be modifying it for use with analog throttles, but not yet. Sorry.

If you are keen on a twist throttle the options instead of the Brain Box are:
(1) Buy a RC Cycle Analyst from ebikes.ca
- here is the ES thread
- here is where to buy them from

(2) Roll your own
- modify a servo tester to accept a hall throttle, and output the correct signal for the ESC. Here are the instructions
- I would also recommend using a one of these to adjust the ramp up rate. This helps smooth drive engagement/disengagement.
- this is a very basic and cheap setup, so it will not enforce any minimum speeds, or limit maximum power. So beware!

Cheers,
Adrian

[adrian_sm]

Update:

Hi everyone. The holiday season is over for me and my suppliers now, so I'll be finishing of the drive units soon and contacting everyone to confirm the order, arrange payment, and ship things out.

Thanks for your support and patience.

Regards,
Adrian

P.S. I have been thinking about the cost and feature set quite a bit recently, and am thinking of offering a simpler stripped down model. This would remove the bells and whistles features like data logging, and temperature sensor, and add an analog throttle input. I may even remove the display all together for a basic setup.

[grindz145]

It's great to see a fuel guage type function in there. It's something I've been hoping Justin will do. Especially when building bikes for folks who are not familiar with ebikes, its much easier for someone to understand the total %, rather than having to compare watt-hour figures. Very cool

[adrian_sm]

Thanks, the other feature I quite like related to that is the auto reset of the fuel gauge. With the Cycle Analyst you have to remember to reset the Ah/wh whenever you charge. Not a big deal but I always forget half the time.

The fuel gauge feature is the main feature that is making me hold on to keeping the display. The rest of the features the average person wouldn't miss, or could easily just rely on a normal bike computer for.

I could probably make it half the price if I got rid of datalogging, and the display. But then it would require being hooked up to a computer to change any setting which is a pain. It is the small volume production that is the killer, makes things too labour intensive/expensive to do what I want and still hit a price point people want.

- Adrian

[grindz145]

I could probably make it half the price if I got rid of datalogging, and the display. But then it would require being hooked up to a computer to change any setting which is a pain. It is the small volume production that is the killer, makes things too labour intensive/expensive to do what I want and still hit a price point people want.

I don't think you're far off the mark as it is right now. A bit more volume and you could actually be the budget metering option. I love Justin and ebikes.ca, but it's not bad to have a little competition in this space! Ill keep an eye on it.

[adrian_sm]

Thanks. But I will probably be dropping the datalogging feature from being standard in the future. It takes up half the programming space, stops me from implementing new features, and most people will not use it.

Perhaps I will just have an option to purchase an upgrade kit, including the micro-SD board, instruction on how to wire it up, and custom firmware for those that need detailed log data and summary stats automatically recorded for every ride they make.

- Adrian

[grindz145]

That makes alot of sense to me. A datalogger is cool to me, but not a mass-market feature really.

[SamTexas]

The fuel gauge feature is the main feature that is making me hold on to keeping the display. The rest of the features the average person wouldn't miss, or could easily just rely on a normal bike computer for.

I could probably make it half the price if I got rid of datalogging, and the display.

I must be missing something here. What usefulness can it provide without the display?

[grindz145]

The fuel gauge feature is the main feature that is making me hold on to keeping the display. The rest of the features the average person wouldn't miss, or could easily just rely on a normal bike computer for.

I could probably make it half the price if I got rid of datalogging, and the display.

I must be missing something here. What usefulness can it provide without the display?

He was referring to building the unit without datalogging features, but keeping the display in the last post.

[adrian_sm]

The main reason I made this little guy is to control my friction drive, making it really user friendly. So it does a few special things:
- power limit, to protect motor, tires, and economy. Uses both Volts & Amps readings so output power remains constant even as battery voltage drops.
- minimum speed limit, to allow use of cheap light RC-ESCs.
- max speed limit, if you need it
- smooths throttle ramp up and down to improve friction drive engagement
- button throttle, very good for road bike drop bars, and my preferred throttle now.
- cruise control, accessed via momemtary release of button throttle for when you hit a school or shopping strip with a slow speed limit.
- two power limits available as you ride (standard, and "turbo"/overtake mode), accessed via double momentary release of throttle button. Great for unleashing more power to blow past people on the hills.

Then there are the display dependent stuff like:
- programming of all features without computer
- normal bike computer stats
- ebike stats
- fuel gauge
- temperature reading

Then the SD card dependent stuff like:
- datalogging of everything to SD, for post ride analysis
- trip summary stats for every ride

But you are right if I stripped away the display, on the face of it it does not appear to provide much for the $$$'s. Once of the reasons I kept it, and offered all the usual ebike stats, and ability to reprogram things on the bike.

Hope that makes a little bit more sense.

- Adrian

[SamTexas]

He was referring to building the unit without datalogging features, but keeping the display in the last post.

So right now the Brain Box has 2 separate display units?

[adrian_sm]

No. Just one display. But two separate ideas in simplifying the Brain Box.
1) remove SD card and datalogging
2) more extreme minimalist, remove display.

[SamTexas]

No. Just one display. But two separate ideas in simplifying the Brain Box.
1) remove SD card and datalogging
2) more extreme minimalist, remove display.

Ok, back to my question again.

I must be missing something here. What usefulness can it provide without the display?

[adrian_sm]

I answered this three posts up. Perhaps you missed it.

viewtopic.php?f=31&t=34587&p=519566#p519537

- Adrian

[SamTexas]

Yep, I did. Thanks.