mrezzy wrote:Can you post specs for the max distance you can cover with that 36V 8ah battery no pedaling? and max mph?
The twist throttle has switches that do nothing, although it looks like they should be the on-off switches. Using plug-and-play, the battery remains on at all times, something that caused grief when I accidentally grabbed the handlebar to move the bike and twisted the throttle which promptly upended the bike and scratched the new rear fender. I had discovered that one set of wires had to be plugged into each other for it to run at all, thus I wired these into a boat toggle switch that allows me to shut off the battery when not in use. When Paul returns, I will ask for the wiring diagram. Performance is excellent for city streets, I can stay out of trouble. At stop lights I have to be careful to not pop a wheelie. It's no fun riding it on an outing with my wife, because I am always too far ahead. Which is why I then bought a third bike...
cell_man wrote:The twist throttle has switches that do nothing, although it looks like they should be the on-off switches. Using plug-and-play, the battery remains on at all times, something that caused grief when I accidentally grabbed the handlebar to move the bike and twisted the throttle which promptly upended the bike and scratched the new rear fender. I had discovered that one set of wires had to be plugged into each other for it to run at all, thus I wired these into a boat toggle switch that allows me to shut off the battery when not in use. When Paul returns, I will ask for the wiring diagram. Performance is excellent for city streets, I can stay out of trouble. At stop lights I have to be careful to not pop a wheelie. It's no fun riding it on an outing with my wife, because I am always too far ahead. Which is why I then bought a third bike...
I test all the kits before they go out. The integrated 3 speed and cruise which are located on the throttle are amongst the checks that are made, so I can only assume that whilst modifying the connections to make a power switch, something was changed to prevent those functions from working. I would suggest that any equipment is used in as supplied state initially before making any changes, the connectors can only be fitted in 1 way. Cruise is enabled by pressing the momentary green switch on the throttle, the 3 speeds are enabled by the red 3 position switch, there is not an on/off switch on the throttle, nor is there any connections to the throttle that could be used for a power switch.
There should be a linked plug on the battery to controller adapter cable (if there is not then please let me know and I can advise how this can be added). If the link is removed, the controller is powered down. A low current switch could be fitted here as a remote power switch, any sort of low current switch would suffice. With the controller disabled there is zero current drain. If the kit is too fast a lower speed setting will do the trick (if the function is working) and if the current levels are higher than required, the controller can be re-programmed for lower current. 3 speed settings are also programmable down to as low as 30%. Speed 1 is set to 50% as standard, speed 2 75%, speed 3 100%.
Ean Mcnally wrote:Thank you for such a great review of 3 different ebikes, It is a lot of work to review them.
I know I will be pointing a lot of newbies right here.
I wonder if you could comment on what it is like to pedal each one is there resistance/drag felt, or does it feel like a regular bike
bobale wrote:I really like your last bike. It is incredibly beautiful, wiring is very neat, and it's so stealth with that bottle battery and Cute motor. But, you should consider covering it in leather. Battery case looks nice, but it doesn't match anything on the bike.
cell_man wrote:Just to clarify 1 point. Mac only supply the bare motors to me to my spec, all of the rest of the parts are specced and put together by me, including the wheel build, controller, throttle, ebrakes, battery and charger. Mac do not make kits.
greenspark wrote:Cell Man asked: "So how fast is it on Speed 1? I wouldn't have though more than 25km/h?"
Probably 25kph is about right. I use it when I want help up the hills and then shut it off and pedal. I've been meaning to add a speedo to see what I actually am doing, but with 14 tooth, in Speed 1 I still can do pedal assist. In Speed 2 and 3, it goes too fast for the gearing.
On battery lights, I agree, battery indicators are inaccurate and therefore somewhat useless, but using it as an idiot light to show the battery is on is important. All that is needed is an on-off switch that activates a light when on. For safety a removable key is what the Ulisse offers.
In terms of documentation, I suggest you first offer the equivalent of a one-page owners manual that shows what each switch and connector does. The "I-0-II" switch intuitively means "low-off-high", not "low-medium-high" for example, so an owners manual would explain that when it is on "0" it is not power-off, but Speed 2. You can write such a manual in Word with a few digital snapshots, save it as a pdf and upload it to your site for easy download by customers.
The other thing I would suggest for your web site is a list of everything you have for sale, such as the Cycle Analyst. Because shipping is expensive, it is worthwhile for the buyer to lump everything together, and you may want to suggest that for parts which are cheap it makes sense to buy extras on the initial order. For example, from Steven Deng, I bought an extra controller and an extra thumb throttle switch that cost very little, and proved very useful when his first kit failed (although since installing the replacement controller and finding it fixed nothing, I have not heard from him again). If you list all the stuff you carry, some folks will order more, especially of the smaller, lighter, cheaper accessories.
I am hopeful the MXUS will do the job, but if not, I'll keep shopping. You may want to chat with MAC about making a smaller-diameter, silver-finish, slower-wound, front wheel motor that is a step down from their 350W (300W maximum in NZ) and is all about hauling a 110kg payload (bike and rider) up a 20 degree hill (slowly, but with enough grunt to make it with moderate pedalling assist). On that bike, I really am looking for a pedal bike with a motor that flattens the hills rather than a motor scooter in bicycle clothing. I believe the largest potential market out there is the hill-flattener market, and the front motor does it without messing with the gears... simple and if the diameter is small, the hub is machined silver and the battery looks like part of the design, it will be a winner. Having said that, I think the Vivax Assist http://www.vivax-assist.com/en/produkte/vivax-assist.html sounds like the best solution, except for their €2,199 stunning price. It would be nice if they shifted manufacture to MAC and cut the price to about 10%.
Finally, Paul, I realise that you have said the bottle battery case does not fit your 123 batteries, but I do encourage you to see if something similar could not be purchased that does fit. It is so much cleaner than all the other battery boxes out there, it offers the on-off switch, is removable with a key, does not rattle, and it looks like it is part of the bike. The design can be painted, powder-coated or leather upholstered and yet BMS sells the empty (no battery) one for $25. Perhaps you can have a talk with the manufacturer to find out what they may charge you to make up a batch that would fit your batteries. On my bike, as the photo shows, you could make it another 150 mm longer without any problem.
greenspark wrote:Update: April 2012
Paul (cell man) sent me a new battery 36v and Infineon controller for his smaller 350W front motor kit (not the MAC). Even though on paper it is similar to the Cute 100 kit and BMSbattery's bottle battery, the performance is better. It takes me up my 20 degree hill with good pedal assist. it's not powerful enough to climb the hill on its own, but it does keep my leg muscles from screaming and the pedals from striking the frame... truly, the amount of muscle I have to use to climb the hill twists the Globe Live1 bike frame enough that the pedal strikes it.
]Paul's kit has improved. He now wires both front and rear brake levers into the safety cut off switch, and he sold me a separate on-off switch that he hand marked with the place to plug it in. Whereas Steven Deng's kit required soldering everything (which first meant labeling everything - took an hour - to make sure I did not screw up and fry something by soldering it at the wrong place), Pauls was plug and play.
This time I went with the half twist throttle (which is less likely to be accidentally turned by someone moving the bike out of the way while the power is left on) and it has the 3-speed setting and cruise control. I find I use the cruise because the spring tension on the twist gets tiring. This may mean however that I use the juice more than I did with the thumb throttle.
I ordered a smaller batter (less Ah) because of weight and size, and I reckon on the island I don't need the extra distance. However, I may decide to carry the old bottle battery as a spare tank. We'll see how it goes. At present the front motor and the 3kg+ battery in the front basket makes it heavy. It is not noticeable when riding, but at rest, it's heavy. I installed a kick stand on the front axle, and this has ended the instability when I park the bike. I may however fabricate my own bottle case (using round aluminium pipe) and install Paul's battery where the water bottle goes.
The wheel that came with the kit was true and the 700c tyre fit on it tight whereas Steven Deng's was smaller diameter and it popped two inner tubes and one $40 tyre before I worked out how to get it to hold on. Much happier with Paul's rim.
Like Deng's motor, Paul's motor does make some noise going up our steep hill, and I am beginning to wonder if this is not the Globe Live1's aluminium frame amplifying the sound. It is not so bad on normal inclines, but not as quiet as the MAC on my Gary Fisher. We will see what happens when I move it to the Bella Ciao that I am buying in Berlin later this month. That has a Columbus Thron steel frame.
In a perfect world, this motor would have a wee bit more torque, the battery would fit in a round bottle design and I would like to have an idiot light to remind me that I left the battery switched on, but overall it's not bad. For the person wanting an assist (as opposed to making your bicycle into an electric moped), Paul's 350w front motor kit is a good, low-cost, easy to install solution. Make sure to ask to upgrade to the Infineon controller, ask for the on-off power switch and the longer brake handles. If you are willing to wait, he offers sea-freight shipping at a significantly lower price. I think it took about a month to arrive. One of the annoying things about Steven Deng and BMS battery is that they require one use the fast post (I wonder if that is not where they make their profit) but then take two weeks before they get the order in the post. Paul gets stuff out fast, and if there is a delay (in my case I ordered a battery in a size he did not have on the shelf), he keeps you informed before you send him the money.
Bottom line: Buy cellman, it's worth the extra price. Better product, better customer relations.
Users browsing this forum: bart1006 and 2 guests