jana wrote:Hi all.
Still waiting for my wheel to be built.
Today I made some schematic for charging the batteries.
The idea is i swap 2 plugs when i go from running the bike to charging the bike.
This way it should be very hard to accidently make a short or overcharge.
Thinking og using 8 Andersons (assembled) for power, 50 pin D-sub for balancing leads.
Your comments are welcome.
Looks ok to me..
But I don't use LiPo, so I'm prolly not the best person to accept that from..
Just make sure the charging/discharging plugs (balance leads don't matter), are rated for the amperage you'll be pulling..
Also, I noticed no fuses in that diagram..
P.S. On every 12v, 36v and 48v line I have, I put a fuse inline.
On my test bed bike, I have all of these... (with fuse rating in parentheses).
1.) 12v line for accessories.
(12v-30a fuse on positive side going to main accessories line).
2.) (same 12v battery)/12v line, inline, with a "33v" battery, setup on a switch to go from 36v to "48v".
(12v-30a fuse on positive side going to switch).
3.) 24v battery (2 SLAs) in series with the (same) 12v battery/line.
(32v-30a fuse on positive side going to controller - [controller draws less than 30a - technically 20.9a max])
4.) "33v" battery (11s LiFePo4) on aforementioned switch (see #2 above).
(32v-30a fuse on positive side going to controller - [controller draws less than 20a - technically 17.6a max])
P.P.S. After my first 2 years of using/building e-bikes and blowing countless controllers, chargers, batteries, etc... I've learned to fuse ANYTHING that can short out!