"Strong" Build. pic heavy.

Brentis said:
Good job J.W.

I have considered sticking with an A123 pack(cell_man).
16s4p fits nice and tight, keeps the manufactured look,
and is basically maintenance free.

Alas, I need more voltage and capacity for what I plan.
I want an honest 64kmh/40mph bike.
Having the flexibility of Lipo, to run either a high voltage/low capacity fast bike.
or lower voltage/higher capacity commuter is paramount.


I haven't used the alu. case yet,as I am still saving my pennies for the lipo packs.
I'll be sure to update when I do.

It's reassuring to see a few of these frames being used.
Where abouts are you located?
Seems quite a few of these were sold in the UK.
Here in Canada they sold coast to coast @ Canadian Tire stores, but each store only moved a few units.
Too expensive I guess ($1000) compared to the Schwinn IZip @ half the price
and the same speed limit, of which they sold plenty.

Back in 2008 when I first got the ebike bug, not knowing anything E, I purchased the Strong.
I was impressed with full suspension, disk brakes, lights, horn, etc.
I rode it for 1 day before it mysteriously "died", in hind sight it was probably a simple fix.
I was pissed, a $1000 for 1 days use. :x I took it back to the store.
They told me that they had a guy who takes care of the ebikes warranty.
He only came to that store once a month though.

"Give me my money back."
"Sorry we won't except returns on bikes."

I calmly express my displeasure.
They decide that I can exchange for another. I didn't trust that it wouldn't breakdown to.
They suggested I take the Schwinn, plus a few hundred dollars, instead. Much lower rate of problems.
I bit.
Glad I did, because if I got a full return refund, I may never have looked at another Ebike again.

Take care.
Click to expand...

I'm located in Ottawa and I remember the Strong GT's were sold for about $1200 regular price and $1000 on sale at Canadian Tire, I would never have pumped up that kind of cash for a consumer-grade ebike (meaning, govt-regulated noob machine with no ooomph). So I purchased the Schwinn Invidia--an IZIP with "unisex" frame--on sale for $400 with the intention of overvolting it and was satisfied with it for the first week or so but it didn't give me the ebike grin I got with my later builds. I also didn't like the build quality at all: the rear rim wasn't trued properly and I had to exchange the lead batts 3 times in 2 months because it only gave me 10km range or less on a full charge WITH aggressive pedaling. I have since converted it to a 7S10P LiMn setup, reduced the drive sprocket by 4 Teeth for higher top speed and sold it to a friend for cheap. That will be the last ebike I purchase off the shelf, if I can't build it myself I just won't bother.

By the way on page 2 of this thread you talked about the lateral strength of the swing arm pivot being that it was only 2 1/2" across with 1/4" tangs and if it would be able to take 60km/h + with heavy rims. When we reduce the rim size designed for the frame we're going to increase the stress on the swingarm and reduce load-carrying capacity. Being a steel frame it already handles like a pig and I personally lack the equipment (and the spare parts) to see just how much stress that pivot will take before getting a hairline fracture. We could use a different monoshock or if possible adjust the one we already have for slightly less travel. What do you think?

I also like your idea of using drum brakes for the front rim, where did you get the 90mm Sturney? All I could find was 70mm...

-J.W.
 
JoramsWeapon said:
...
I'm located in Ottawa and I remember the Strong GT's were sold for about $1200 regular price and $1000 on sale at Canadian Tire, I would never have pumped up that kind of cash for a consumer-grade ebike (meaning, govt-regulated noob machine with no ooomph). So I purchased the Schwinn Invidia--an IZIP with "unisex" frame--on sale for $400 with the intention of overvolting it and was satisfied with it for the first week or so but it didn't give me the ebike grin I got with my later builds. I also didn't like the build quality at all: the rear rim wasn't trued properly and I had to exchange the lead batts 3 times in 2 months because it only gave me 10km range or less on a full charge WITH aggressive pedaling. I have since converted it to a 7S10P LiMn setup, reduced the drive sprocket by 4 Teeth for higher top speed and sold it to a friend for cheap. That will be the last ebike I purchase off the shelf, if I can't build it myself I just won't bother.

By the way on page 2 of this thread you talked about the lateral strength of the swing arm pivot being that it was only 2 1/2" across with 1/4" tangs and if it would be able to take 60km/h + with heavy rims. When we reduce the rim size designed for the frame we're going to increase the stress on the swingarm and reduce load-carrying capacity. Being a steel frame it already handles like a pig and I personally lack the equipment (and the spare parts) to see just how much stress that pivot will take before getting a hairline fracture. We could use a different monoshock or if possible adjust the one we already have for slightly less travel. What do you think?

I also like your idea of using drum brakes for the front rim, where did you get the 90mm Sturney? All I could find was 70mm...

-J.W.
Click to expand...

That's kool that your local :wink:
I hope someday we can stage a race out your way.
Toronto and west can drive/train it in.
Montreal & Quebec city can come and play.
Maybe even the maritimes could make it.
An eastern Ontario race :mrgreen:


I quite liked my IZip.
The early version, with Batt. located behind seatpost in a cage.
It was torquey, reliable and cheap.
I went through rear rims like no ones business though.
Then I really got into ES. & learned better.


I am cautiously optimistic about pivot strength.
The rear shock has a 750# spring.
I think that helps. I get maybe an 1.5" of travel.
It felt good and laterally stable when I last rode it.
Granted @ only 30kph. & I want 60+kph.
I'll be sure to monitor.

I love the Sturmey Drum.
I bought it off Ebay.
One of the big sellers. I dont recall.
Very good experience.
Ended up costing $100cdn to my door.
Not bad. Shipped from SW states IIRC. in only 3days :)
I would have paid more local, but good luck finding anyone round Barrie.
I even tried bike shops in the GTA. Nut.
Would recommend holding out for the 90mm version.
I saw a pic showing the insides of 90 & 70 together.
The 90 is a BIG difference.
I believe they are intended for cargo bike, surrey's, tandems,etc.

But alas, it is on Strong for pics only.
My "Ghetto" build for which it will go back on & was designed for.
Is a 40kph bike. I was completely confident in it. Maintenance free & easy clean to boot.

For aggressive riding @60+kph,
I would highly recommend Hydraulic Discs.
Which I will use with Lipo upgrade.

Peace
 
Update...

Make sure you carefully read the whole label before using a new product.

frame glued together..JPG

This product, while fine for interiors, has almost zero resistance to water.
If the glue gets moist it loses all tack. DO NOT USE, as I suggested.
This is what will happen.
What is left intact,used Gorilla glue as an adhesive.
Pile of bones.JPG
To properly glue together a battery box use this

This is the good stuff..JPG

100% waterproof. In fact it is water activated.
It makes for a box that feels, as if carved from a single block of wood.
Wood welding. :wink:

Apologies for the confusion.

Stay tuned...
 
I hate that stuff. All it does is make a mess and doesn't work as well as regular yellow carpenters glue. Epoxy might help a little, but I'm afraid that anything you use on a plain butt joint in end grain will fail. Mortise and tenon joints would be the best. If nothing else, after it's glued up drill holes and glue dowels into each joint. Then if you skin the box on all sides with something strong it might hold up for awhile.
 
nicobie said:
I hate that stuff. All it does is make a mess and doesn't work as well as regular yellow carpenters glue. Epoxy might help a little, but I'm afraid that anything you use on a plain butt joint in end grain will fail. Mortise and tenon joints would be the best. If nothing else, after it's glued up drill holes and glue dowels into each joint. Then if you skin the box on all sides with something strong it might hold up for awhile.
Click to expand...

I considered dowels but its just to tight.
Because the cage of the frame provides the strength/support, I'm not too worried.
The wood box is just acting like pretty Duct Tape. :wink:


nicobie said:
I hate that stuff. All it does is make a mess and doesn't work as well as regular yellow carpenters glue...
Click to expand...

I really like it. Find it very strong for this purpose.
I think the key is prep & to not, over apply, as far as mess goes.
 
Your build is looking good. That bike actually looks better with the 20" wheels in my opinion. It does look like a racing bike. That frame is ideal for batteries in the frame as well. Your battery box is nice too. Do you remove the battery when parking the bike for security purposes? You're build is pretty much what I'm looking for so I'm going to follow along. By the way how come you're talking about swapping the HS3540 with a magic pie 2? Are you in a hilly area? I would think that overheating shouldn't be much of an issue with the HS3540 in a 20" wheel provided you're not constantly going up hill. Hope you can take some video of you riding around when you're done.
 
electr0n said:
Your build is looking good. That bike actually looks better with the 20" wheels in my opinion. It does look like a racing bike. That frame is ideal for batteries in the frame as well. Your battery box is nice too. Do you remove the battery when parking the bike for security purposes? You're build is pretty much what I'm looking for so I'm going to follow along. By the way how come you're talking about swapping the HS3540 with a magic pie 2? Are you in a hilly area? I would think that overheating shouldn't be much of an issue with the HS3540 in a 20" wheel provided you're not constantly going up hill. Hope you can take some video of you riding around when you're done.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words.

The bike is still a build in progress,
but the battery box will likely never be removed from the bike, the option is open though.
I tend not to leave the bike unattended.
To many crack/meth/oxy heads round here.
I actually park in my kitchen :mrgreen:

I like the 3540 in a 20" & found it to dead reliable.(after the cut wires fix)
It has never got to more than ambient temp.
Granted thats @ 1500w max, and very few hills.

I want a Magic Pie II to experiment with High Voltage. :twisted:
3540 even in a 20" is a touch fast of a wind for over 100v.
Having cast rims eliminates wheel truing. May aid in cooling?
Looks kool.


Vids will be coming soon.
I took it for its first powered ride this morning.
Sunny and already 6 Celsius
Felt good, very slight wobble, maybe an alignment issue?

Stay tuned...
 
Nice. Looking forward to the video. Don't have the batteries to run more watts yet? Thought you mentioned commuting somewhere in the thread. If so where do you park at work? I'm hesistant to spend much on a nice bike frame because I use my bike for errands and commuting to work and leave it outside unattended a lot. I always remove my battery and take it with me while I shop. I find it quite cumbersome, it would be nice to have a setup like yours with the battery integrated into the frame and locked in there some how.
 
electr0n said:
Nice. Looking forward to the video. Don't have the batteries to run more watts yet? Thought you mentioned commuting somewhere in the thread. If so where do you park at work? I'm hesistant to spend much on a nice bike frame because I use my bike for errands and commuting to work and leave it outside unattended a lot. I always remove my battery and take it with me while I shop. I find it quite cumbersome, it would be nice to have a setup like yours with the battery integrated into the frame and locked in there some how.
Click to expand...

I am currently saving pennies for Lipo. :roll:
Bike is running 16s5p Cell_man a123 pack for testing purpose.
I may commute this bike,
I could park @ my current employer, carefree.
My city contains most of the homeless/addicts to the downtown core.
Area's outside of downtown are worry free for the most part.
I live downtown & would not leave my bike unattended for 2sec.
Where I work, I could leave it unlocked out in the shade. :wink:
Moral of the story, consider where you park. Get a quality lock.


This bike originally had a locking battery box.
If I used it for regular commuting, I would have done what JoramsWeapon did.(top of page4)
Maintaining the locking box. Nice clean look.
I'm looking for a fast street bike over a commuter though.
So custom case and Lipo.
 
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