AmpBike Help

[PitchPenny]

Ok Oakright ...I got smart and Google all this stuff
and winged it with your help and my common sense
>>>>>>>>>Slide the thin tips into the backend of the white plug with the 5 wires while it is all assembled. Set your multimeter so it's set to measure voltage, somewhere in the 5 volt range. Stick the red one alongside the red wire, and the black one alongside the black wire. You should measure 5 volts. If not, there is something wrong. After that, stick the red probe into the green wire, black to black, and turn the wheel very slowly. About every inch or so of wheel movement the voltage should toggle between 5v and 0v. If it doesn't toggle, there is something wrong. Then put the red to blue, black to black, and move the wheel slowly to see if it toggles. Repeat for yellow.
You should always have a constant 5v coming from the controller on the red wire. You should have the Green, Yellow, and Blue wires alternate between 5v and 0v. Always sink the >black probe to black< when testing the halls.<<<<<<<<<<<<<

I did all this it was a cake walk! and I passed all the tests!


Quick side note here>>When I turn my key on my ignition switch it works half the time
as in it LIGHTS up my Throttle Lights Half the time
sometimes it works sometimes it does not...when it does not it comes on in 10 secs or so
WONDERIng here if I can simply BY PASS the Ignition switch by Connecting the TWO WIRES
that go to my Ignition switch (to me this seems common sense but I am going to ask here first for feed back)

[Oakwright]

Ignition switch... as in you have a red rocker style on/off switch to turn the whole setup on or off? Some ampedbikes setups have the red rocker switch, some ampedbikes have a red button switch on the controller. Some kits from other places don't have an on/off switch at all.

You should be able to test if your switch is bad or not pretty easily. Unplug the switch, and connect the multimeter to the switch. Switch your multimeter into resistance mode (measuring ohms). It should toggle between infinite resistance and no resistance when you flip the switch back and forth. You can also test the brake levers this way too. And can test any other wire actually. Don't measure resistance on wires that have voltage going through them, so you might disconnect the batteries first.

You should also check the voltage on the batteries. Many controllers have a low voltage cutoff value. I don't remember what the cutoff value is for the ampedbikes controllers, but they are intended for the 36v - 60v range, so maybe somewhere around 34v? So if your battery is fully charged but only putting out 32v, it might not work.

If it's a faulty switch or wire but sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, that's a bit harder to tell. I mean, if a switch is working one minute and the next minute it's kaput, it's hard to test. So you might have to do so wire wiggling to tell if something is unreliable but sometimes functional.

[PitchPenny]

>>>You should be able to test if your switch is bad or not pretty easily. Unplug the switch, and connect the multimeter to the switch. Switch your multimeter into resistance mode (measuring ohms). It should toggle between infinite resistance and no resistance when you flip the switch back and forth.<<<

I did this, I set the Ohms on 2000k
(this is at that funny shape that looks like a pair of headphones an O shape somewhat) I pushed in the pins on the meter choosing randomly...and this is what it did;
it went from the no#1 which the meter reads in ohms when the contacts are not touching anything...
to; many quick changing numbers to them all going to ZERO ZERO ZERO
so I am assuming this means the Throttle is OK that same test was performed with with brakes and they checked out good too...I did have to press down on the breaks to make
the numbers come and then all go to zeros...(side note the pressing of the throttle did nothing to the numbers
only when I turned on and off the red button on the throttle did the numbers go from many to zeros)
Now on to the battery>> I get 38.7 v
So that was easy! Now what?

[Oakwright]

Alright, so it sounds like your brakes, motor, battery, and switch are all good. So that pretty much leaves the throttle and the controller.

A little caveat about my advice about testing throttles and controllers, I've never actually tested these before with a multimeter, as I ended up getting a Lyen tester ( viewtopic.php?f=31&t=20413 ) before I got to this point on my repairs. Perhaps someone else can lend some more experienced advice.

Ampedbikes has had a few different types of throttles. Mine is a big white plug, similar looking to the hall sensor plug that goes from the motor to controller. The throttle itself is a hall effect sensor setup, similar the motor. Except there are 4 wires instead of 5. So you should be able to test it in the same way you tested the motor before. Set the multimeter to measure volts, and test between red and black, that should register about 5 volts. My throttle's other two wires are yellow and green. So if it's the same, you test from yellow to black, and then green to black. The voltage should vary between 0v and 5v depending on how far you pull the throttle down.

If the throttle appears to be fine, then that pretty much leaves the controller. I don't have much advice on how to test that...

[PitchPenny]

>>>Alright, so it sounds like your brakes, motor, battery, and switch are all good. So that pretty much leaves the throttle and the controller.<<<

By SWITCH you mean the red button on the Throttle I am assuming
when I tested the Switch the pushing
the Throttle did nothing
IT DID NOT EFFECT THE NUMBERS
So as for checking the Throttle
I am not sure what you are instructing~
AND as for you saying it sounds like the MOTOR is GOOD...I do not recall
us ever testing the Motor...
did I miss something here?

I read somewhere on line you could stick two neddles into the wires leading to the throttle and
touch them and if the throttle was bad the bike would jerk forward and take off
(just a thought)

[dnmun]

if you are concerned the motor will take off while testing, then disconnect the phase wires from the controller to the motor.

do not measure resistance while the battery is connected to the controller.

no pictures yet.

is there an led on the throttle to indicate when the battery is on?

was there a voltage on either side of the clip that the switch is plugged into. there should be battery voltage on one side and the other side returns that voltage to the controller through the switch when the switch is on.

[PitchPenny]

is there an led on the throttle to indicate when the battery is on?


YES YES YES the throttle has led lights for the battery

(I am going to post PICs I keep repeating this stuff over and over
one picture worth my 1000 words and all your's too!)

was there a voltage on either side of the clip that the switch is plugged into. there should be battery voltage on one side and the other side returns that voltage to the controller through the switch when the switch is on.

I am so sorry BUT I DO NOT UNDERSTAND what you are saying here >>insert a sad face here>>

[dnmun]

the wire going to the switch on the dashboard is on a wire that has a plug on the other end. it plugs into another plug that has the battery voltage on one pin and the other pin goes to the controller. need to know if you are getting voltage to that plug.

[PitchPenny]

Dmnun Hello

>>>the wire going to the switch on the dashboard is on a wire that has a plug on the other end. it plugs into another plug that has the battery voltage on one pin and the other pin goes to the controller. need to know if you are getting voltage to that plug.<<<

I tested the TWO WIRES you speak of and I get Voltage going to them
(it is very clear one leads to the battery and the other to the controller)
yes they DO GET VOLTAGE 38v or something I forget...
Now when I plug in the male and female on this plug
I GET NOTHING NO VOLTS is this normal?
And I am not sure how to test the Throttle to see if when i press down ON THE THROTTLE if I can get a reading...this has not been done, I believe only the switch
ON the Throttle has been tested...

P1010001.jpg (36.76 KiB) Viewed 381 times

(And yes they all LIGHT UP)

[PitchPenny]

It has been 3 or 4 days since anyone replied
ANYONE OUT THERE?
This just in "When I squeeze My THROTTLE or even give it a good tap
all the LIGHTS go out!
how do I test the power levels when I press down on my throttle
it appears the switch is ok
anyone here?

[Ypedal]

I think you need some on site assistance.... more than written help will provide..

[Oakwright]

If the lights go out when you push the throttle down, that means there is a major loss of power somewhere. Maybe your battery fails to give enough voltage when under strain? Maybe there is a short somewhere?

Do any of the components heat up when you try and run it? Do the batteries get hot? Does the controller get hot? Does the battery report decent voltage after trying to run it for a bit?

I'm not really sure what can be done besides testing everything and going over each component repeatedly until you can find something that is weird...

[dnmun]

if the leds turn off when you increase the throttle then the BMS may be shutting off as soon as there is current expected from it.38V is low for a 36V battery. you may have a low cell. put the battery on the charger and measure the cell voltages. list them, from #1-12.

[PitchPenny]

Whoops I Messed UP
Let Me Rephrase this;
>>>The Lights going OUT <<have NOTHING to do with PRESSING THE THROTTLE Handle~
It is the "Housing" that you tap or press on, not the throttle handle
I am so sorry for not being clear~!
Is there not a way to by pass the whole throttle
cause this is some kind of short going on in there
maybe the whole throttle housing and switch got hit

[Oakwright]

Whoops I Messed UP
Let Me Rephrase this;
>>>The Lights going OUT <<have NOTHING to do with PRESSING THE THROTTLE Handle~
It is the "Housing" that you tap or press on, not the throttle handle
I am so sorry for not being clear~!
Is there not a way to by pass the whole throttle
cause this is some kind of short going on in there
maybe the whole throttle housing and switch got hit

Oh. When you tap the throttle HOUSING the lights go out? I think that it's probably pretty safe to say that there is a problem with your throttle then. Buy a new throttle. You can get a new one from ampedbikes for $15 + $5 shipping. You can also buy the throttles from pretty much anywhere else too (ebikes.ca, electricscooterparts.com, etc). Just make sure you get the right type of throttle.

[PitchPenny]

So yes My Throttle does SEEM to be what is the mishap here with my bike not taking off motor wise when I press down on my trottle switch...
But just as their is a WAY to check IF your Breaks are the fly in the ointment
BUT UNPLUGING YOUR BREAKS
I have heard there is a way to check your THROTTLE by let's say; CUTTING the WIRES
and connecting them up together to BY PASS THE WHOLE on and off and press the THROTTLE DOWN to go fast or slow Process...anyone have any ideas about this?

[dogman]

At this point, I'd be inclined to try a new throttle. It doesn't have to be from amped, but you may have to splice your old plug onto a new throttle. It sounds like the throttle may be the problem, if there is a wonky wire inside it.

What ever happened with the keyswitch? did you try jumping that cirucuit to give you a good connection?

Bear in mind, the chances are your batteries are toast in the first place. Several problems at once is common, and I bet one of your problems is the low voltage cutoff shuts off the controller when the weak batterys sag under any load.

Where are you anyway? For all we know, you live half a mile from one of us.

If you have the cash, then a motor, controller , throttle tester is worth it's weight in gold. Mine is sure used plenty. But a new throttle is so cheap, I'd just buy another and try that.

[PitchPenny]

So How would I go about testing my 3 Batteries
to see if it is one of the reasons why my motor is not engaging
I really did not understand the last time someone gave me instrustions besides the basic test
there was another test that was confusing ?>testing each cells?<
AND CAN I JUST TAKE MY BATTERIES IN TO HAVE THEM TESTED @ AN AUTO PARTS STORE
MANY DO THIS STUFF FOR FREE
IS THIS IS A GOOD IDEA?
BUT I would be into testing it myself IF I could understand the how to

and again I am really into just cutting and connecting all the wires leading to my on off switch
and throttle to by pass the whole unit I do not see why I need to buy a new throttle & on off switch unit........if I can't get my bike to go... then i will have a bike that never goes and a good throttle to boot which would just add insult to injury...
AND I LIVE IN OREGON outside Eugene

[PitchPenny]

I am dieing to know where I can find a "standard" Thumb Throttle that goes on many
E-Bikes mine is for Amped-bike I think is was their D series that had the Cruise Control feature
Mine broke and I sent in for another and they discontinued their cruise control!
please SOMEONE help me!

[Xanda2260]

You could get hold of an infineon controller (from lyen or similar), they have a cruise mode which is activated by holding your throttle at one level for a programmed amount of time (you can change this).
Works well apparamtly.

[StudEbiker]

It sounds like the OP already has a cruise control enabled controller and is just looking for a thumb throttle with a button on it to activate cruise control. I'm sure they exist, but I'm not sure where.

[Racer_X]

PitchPenny, Is it possible to use any momentary switch to use with the "Cruise Control feature".
Did you throttle /Cruise Control come with two separate connectors One for throttle and One for Cruise?

[motomech]

Ebike CA has thumb throttles with a momentary button. 4 pin-out, it's intended for regen but will work with your cruise app. $20 You need cruise with though because it has a killer return spring
It comes with Jst-sx connectors which you will have to clip and splice on the ones from your AB controller.

[newb]

not local & not cheap --> http://elfkw.at/shopen

about half way down the page

[PitchPenny]

My AmpedBike works fine but my Throttle Lights do not come on along with the red on and off switch located on the front of the throttle...the only part of the Throttle that is fuctioning is the actual throttle...I beleave that I had the throttle cable too tight or I bumb it or both...
anyone know how to test the Throttle I have a simple meter