DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

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DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:25 pm

Synopsis:
Create an ebraking scheme using two mechanical switches that will engage ebrake and brake light together. The ebrake operates at 5VDC max with the switch in-line to pull the signal up or down depending on the controller circuitry. The brake light is a 12V LED taillight having three wires: Taillight (running light), brake light, and GND.

The design methodology for my Brake Lever is as follows:

  • Desire to eliminate Hall Effect issues that use field-effect for make-break circuitry
  • Facilitate positive reliable mechanical switching for ebrake
  • Facilitate a second mechanical switch for the new LED taillight/brake light

With that given, I took a common left-side bicycle hand brake lever and attached two SPDT Switches (Without Roller), stacked one on top of the other. Switch can be purchased from RadioShack or any other electronics supply house.

Image
The Switch. Qty-2

To affect the modification, we need the brake lever assembly, two switches (or one if not incorporating the brake light), and an object that will be mounted to the lever-part of the brake that will hit against the switch when the brake is closed (disengaged).

Originally I used superglue to hold all these items down in place, but eventually it will fail. The preferred method that withstood the rigors of being On The Road was discovered by trial and error, and eventually fell upon using fasteners; two small 4-40 UNC 2A screws, or the smallest metric will do as well, about 5/8 or ¾ inch long. The screw should fit tightly into the hole without damaging the packaging.

Image
Brake disengaged. Screws are rusted; hard to find stainless in that size.

I took one switch and made a template from a sheet of paper (Post-it note works great); poke out the two holes, cut out the shape, and place it on the body of the brake assembly where the switch will go. Use the holes as a guide for drilling. Make the holes slightly smaller than the mounting screw. The screws will tap into the soft aluminum without too much effort, though it should be a snug-fit.

Image
Brake engaged.

Test-mount your switches with the screws, and tighten down until just before the screws impact the brake lever, and note the excess. File the length down to match-fit: Enough to go through the aluminum but not rub against the lever. The two screws will do a great job of holding it into place! :wink:

Create a post that will impinge against the lever-arms of the switches. I used an old plastic part and superglued it down, but a bolt will work just as well. I didn’t get the placement exactly right, so there are two ways to adjust: Add more layers to the post (heatshrink works well) and/or bend the metal arms out until contact is sufficient. Small note: I filed away at the lever to create a good solid fit for the post; do what you need to do to make it right :)

Image
Brake: close-up of the post.

Next we wire it up. Remove the switches from the brake assembly. Decide if your ebrake operates when the switch is N/O or N/C. Mine works when the switch is N/C which is the same for the brake light. Example: No hands on the brake, no ebraking, and no brake light. When I pull the lever, the switch goes to a N/C state and completes the circuit, ebraking begins, the brake light comes on, and eventually – if I pull hard enough the mechanical brakes will engage.

Place heatshrink on your wires before you solder them into place (sounds simple but I forgot twice). If using both switches, use the screws to hold them both together and wrap electrical tap (or heatshink) around the entire wire-side of the assembly to unify it. Mount the switches to the brake. Test, test again, be finicky – make sure it works to your satisfaction, and be happy. Wiring up the rest should be straight-forward.

This is how I made mine work, and it is still functioning today. Word of caution: Don’t use clamps to hold the switches in place because they are fragile and will break without giving the slightest indication of failure. :cry:

Thanks where thanks deserved goes to Dnmum and Farfle for their hospitality and use of tools in Portland and Bend. 8)

ADDENDUMS:
Related posts Reed Switch buggered, and OtR: The Day of Gremlins!

Cheers, KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby John in CR » Sat Feb 11, 2012 2:45 pm

Scooters typically take a +12V feed to activate ebraking and have it tied directly into the brake lights. On the controllers I got with my motors it worked that way and the feed to the same brake pin on the Infineon board that ebikes send 5V to activate. That may be something for you e-gurus to explore to see if it's the norm.

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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby BATFINK » Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:05 am

thanks kingfish great stuff
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby rui_fujino » Thu Feb 16, 2012 9:29 am

I guess that works for hydraulic brakes but for mechanical brake you can directly attach the micro switch to the wire.
IMG-20120115-00468.jpg

I was wondering what might happen if you used 12v to run ebrake?
Project 1: Apollo slant hard tail MTB 52v lifepo4, conhismotor, 52T-11T gearing 39.6mph top speed (with pedal)
Project 2: Diamondback s:10 Full suspension 20s2p (83.5v 10ah Lipo), 35kg, HS3540 sensored (MethTek), 12FET lyen controller, Bulk 600w balance charger.
Top speed 45mph(72.4km/h)
Project 3: DOPPELGANGER d2 Visceral
Project 5 Specialized Epic20s2p (83.5v 10ah Lipo), 30kg,HS3540 sensored (MethTek), 12FET lyen @ 50A
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Thu Feb 16, 2012 11:24 am

rui_fujino wrote:I guess that works for hydraulic brakes but for mechanical brake you can directly attach the micro switch to the wire.
I was wondering what might happen if you used 12v to run ebrake?


The solution tendered was for mechnical brakes :)
...although I am keen on how yours works. Can you take a closer shot and explain please?

I think it was Hughes that had the hydraulic brake switch problem.
Regen sticks -SOLVED - Magura e-brake not for DOT4 oil

On 12V: Initially I tried to use a relay to trigger the brake light when ebrake is pulled, but there isn't enough current to throw the switch. Hence I doubled-up on two mechanicals. The ebrake operates on 5V, and the brake light runs on 12V. The grounds are not shared because the 12V is isolated through the DC-DC converter. For ebrake to work off of 12V, the controller would need to accept that voltage. From my elementary understanding of common controllers for ebike, the 12-15V supply drives the FET circuitry, whereas the 5V supply is for digital communication.

It's interesting to note that my automotive LED indicators and brake lights are 12V, but the circuitry within each light drops it down to 3.3V :lol:

~KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby rui_fujino » Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:33 pm

Kingfish wrote:The solution tendered was for mechnical brakes :)
...although I am keen on how yours works. Can you take a closer shot and explain please?


Sorry about such a late reply, I had little problem with hall connectors getting wet and rusting recently and was busy trying to get my motor working again.
I'll take a picture or video of how it works and post it later today :) if you want to go ahead you could read
here.
Project 1: Apollo slant hard tail MTB 52v lifepo4, conhismotor, 52T-11T gearing 39.6mph top speed (with pedal)
Project 2: Diamondback s:10 Full suspension 20s2p (83.5v 10ah Lipo), 35kg, HS3540 sensored (MethTek), 12FET lyen controller, Bulk 600w balance charger.
Top speed 45mph(72.4km/h)
Project 3: DOPPELGANGER d2 Visceral
Project 5 Specialized Epic20s2p (83.5v 10ah Lipo), 30kg,HS3540 sensored (MethTek), 12FET lyen @ 50A
Top speed 45mph(72.4km/h)
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:25 pm

Excellent use of a microswitch! And for Brake-Lights in general :)

It is such a simple concept and friendly indication of action. The way you have accomplished it works as well as any that I have seen.

Great job, KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby chisixer6 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:43 am

bowlofsalad;

I haven't tried it in the wet yet, but I bought it to see how the thing operates. It is still cold and snowy out there, I know, I'm a wimp, even though it's been a real nice winter.That switch that my friend warren(recumbent) suggested, is something I am going to look into, it's the same as the one that I got, but better quality. I believe this only a switch, no lights, that's ok.
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24" girls bike ..ebikekit 20" fwd..75v
24" Schweinn 9c 20"rwd 75v
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Easy Racer clone LWB.....24" rear e-bikekit 48v ..ready for testing
Hooligan clone , longer rear chain stay.. twin 20"...
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convert my CLWB recumbent to a front bafung@48v..ongoing
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:15 am

Friend, my setup works in all seasons: On really cold days the brake light at times remains "on" occassionally when it's super frosty.

The fact is, normal dry Asphalt has not been a problem. Cold weather hampers most devices. When in Doubt - find a place to get some warmth and wait for the weather to break...

:)

High & dry, KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby mlt34 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 2:40 pm

looks great. how long have you been running this ebrake setup on your bike?
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:18 pm

mlt34 wrote:looks great. how long have you been running this ebrake setup on your bike?


Image
This image was taken after the rework from a magnetic reed switch on July 19, 2011, so I'd wager this was done during the episode where I had issues with the 1st attempt to leave on the road trip. Sometimes the levers get a bit sticky; ebrake always works but the taillight not always sure. A DTDP would be perfect though haven't source one I like.

On the Road trip - the superglue broke free and I used two tiny screws to hold it in place; that took care of it for sure :wink:

This last summer I upgraded the wiring, got rid of the tape, and used heatshrink to cover the contacts. The new fairing covers up the whole business much better too.

Image

Cheers, KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
User avatar
Kingfish
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby mlt34 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:06 pm

Wow, awesome fairing. You just need steer horns and a ring hanging from the nose and it'd be perfect ;-)
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Re: DIY Ebrake with integrated Brake Light Switch

Postby Kingfish » Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:49 pm

Ask and ye shall receive: Image Gallery of 2011 P1 Felt 2WD - Part 3 here.

Except for the ring... horns appear in the late design at September 29th/30th & October 20th :wink:
They work much better at steering than the aerobars of 2011.

Here's the start of the complete gallery from the beginning.

Moo! KF
* My 2WD Garden Wall
* Current ride: 2WD Disc EBikeKit (9C 2806-equivalent) / Dual Lyen 12FET / 15S6P LiPo when commuting.
* Going to California: 2011: Trip completed 8)
* Club Member: 40-mph & 101. 10k-Club: 9653 miles-to-date, 4163 as 2WD.

It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
It is by the beans of Java that thoughts acquire speed.
The hands acquire shakes, the shakes become a warning.
It is by caffeine alone I set my mind in motion.
User avatar
Kingfish
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