Greyborg Cromotor Hubzilla motors, Sold Out

[chroot]

Awesome, I would not push hard on controller yet till i feel complete safe the maximum on Lyen controller and gotcha on 21" overrall. I do have farfie's extended swing arm.

[nicobie]

Hey Chroot,

Are you planning to run 130V and a cromotor in a walmart frame?

Luke will be proud of you....

[gensem]

I ll be running like 8-9kw on mine and im sure it will be fine.
Granted I ll not be runnig 130v, more likely 95v (24s)

[chroot]

Yup, Genesis V2100 frame with extended swing arm. I am getting 150v controller from Lyen.

Luke will be proud of me. I don't know - maybe? Who knows BUT I guaranteed you that Farfie will be VERY PROUD! He is the one made inspiration.

Hey Chroot,

Are you planning to run 130V and a cromotor in a walmart frame?

Luke will be proud of you....

[zombiess]

Get ready for some serious power wheelies LOL.

Just remember that this bike can loop me off at any speed under 20 mph even if I'm fully leaned over the handle bars and whack the throttle if I'm on 125 phase amps. Wheel base is 46" axle to axle. Hoping new bike is 56-58" axle to axle and lower to the ground.



Trying to clear my schedule to work on my throttle interface next, I need one bad. Almost looped it this past weekend demonstrating how much torque it made and how easy it wheelies if you weren't careful with the throttle and weight shift. I think I made it to about 2 O'clock according to the guy I was demonstrating it to who also use to ride sport bikes. Had my one foot off the pedals and was ready to bail but I managed to get off the throttle and just ride it out for about 25 feet coasting, hit the balance point just right, too bad no video (the full face helmet would have hidden the look of fear on my face of what I knew was going to happen ). When he rode it, he loved it, except the lack of ability to control wheelies.

[chroot]

lol I love wheelie cause I used own a 1997 GSXR750RR super sport class and 153mph is even worse due never know ending up tank slappers. I had 4 times sudden tank slappers during the high speed. THANK GOD i didn't into accident.

I am looking forward wheelie on my ebike.

[teklektik]

Would be interesting to see some fairly constant speed pavement tests at different speeds like 20, 25, 30. More commuter like.

I agree, but it's difficult to do.

Why?

[hillzofvalp]

because you neeed no stop signs... equal wind.. same slope... etc.

Can't wait for my cromotor 29er! This 2807 is very close to spontaneously flaming up on me. My custom dp420 adhered torque plates (total width per side is .5") don't seem to be giving up with the 9c at 3.5kw. I hope that this is the case with the cromotor at 6-10kw...

[Alan B]

I wonder if the 29'er wheels are strong enough for the Cromotor. One good pothole in the pavement and the mass of the motor may pretzel the wheel (if the torque on startup doesn't). Seems like a more serious wheel is indicated.

[teklektik]

because you neeed no stop signs... equal wind.. same slope... etc.

Seriously. Z is in Nevada - land of flat and desert. You don't need twelve miles of test - find a mile of paved road that's as close to flat as you can manage, reset the CA, and run it. Record the results, reset, turn around and run it back in the reverse direction and average (just like Bonneville).

To get fancy you program the CA for speed regulation, hook up a 5K pot, set the speed, and let the CA do the driving (taking the operator out of the test). Spend $100 and get a Cycle Analogger to record the data and post the raw files.

[Alan B]

Great proposal.

You can even set the CA for max speed values and use full throttle to simplify the setup.

Getting some different speed efficiencies would be great.

[hillzofvalp]

I wonder if the 29'er wheels are strong enough for the Cromotor. One good pothole in the pavement and the mass of the motor may pretzel the wheel (if the torque on startup doesn't). Seems like a more serious wheel is indicated.

I will try to use a rhyno lite or salsa 36mm rim.. With thick spokes. Even thicker than 12 gauge?Enough tire to dampen the pot holes.. Good enough roll-over capability?

[gensem]

I will try to use a rhyno lite or salsa 36mm rim.. With thick spokes. Even thicker than 12 gauge?Enough tire to dampen the pot holes.. Good enough roll-over capability?

I think if you use 12g spokes you ll not be able to tension the spokes as much as you would need to... on the other side ballon tires are always good and can work as a damper too.
Im using moped rims and dont plan on going back. To be truth my next cromotor bicycle ll have moped rims in the front wheel too. I just dont trust bicycle wheels at 90km/h

[hillzofvalp]

I'm going about 55kph. Not sure on the spokes yet... I'll probably call jrh. If anyone else has huge concerns with a 29er cromotor build, please let me know. 66V.

[Alan B]

I will try to use a rhyno lite or salsa 36mm rim.. With thick spokes. Even thicker than 12 gauge?Enough tire to dampen the pot holes.. Good enough roll-over capability?

...

Quote above was wrongly attributed to me, I have fixed it in this post.

I'm not an expert on 29'er wheels, I just raise the question. I'm headed to Moped wheels for this motor. Please consult with wheel experts to make sure you are getting a proper and safe setup.

This is a presale thread, so this discussion might belong elsewhere. Sorry for the OT comments.

I have my Cromotor, now waiting for the Rims to arrive!

[Microbatman]

Please explain the new flange situation more.

The big question is. Is the new flange on center (Axel Shoulder to Axle Shoulder) or not?

Will it be necessary to dish the wheel?
Or will it work without dishing?
Why the change on the flange?
Help me understand the reason that one would choose to complicate the installation.
Some of us here (me included) are not as smart or have the machining/fabrication resoures/contacts as others..

Here is a picture that I got from page 5 of this thread for the Version 1 motor flange
It looks like its on center. Why change something thats working?
Do you have a picture like this of the new Version 2 motor flange so we can see what the difference is?

[hillzofvalp]

Do you think you could offer large ID nord-locks with your motors?

[NeilP]

Damn and I have already paid up for my X 5405 motor, bugger

I would not be to worried about nord locks. I have just taken mine off and gone back to industrial thread lock
I used the stainless steel ( harder) Nord Locks and although they do show the ridge marks on both nut and torque plate, they would just not stay tight

[zombiess]

:?:
Please explain the new flange situation more.

The big question is. Is the new flange on center (Axel Shoulder to Axle Shoulder) or not?

Will it be necessary to dish the wheel?
Or will it work without dishing?
Why the change on the flange?
Help me understand the reason that one would choose to complicate the installation.
Some of us here (me included) are not as smart or have the machining/fabrication resoures/contacts as others..

Here is a picture that I got from page 5 of this thread for the Version 1 motor flange
It looks like its on center. Why change something thats working?
Do you have a picture like this of the new Version 2 motor flange so we can see what the difference is?

The change in the flange was done by the manufacturer and not Greyborg, don't know why except it's how China manufacturing works. I've heard horror stories about every kind of manufacturing done in China. Some companies pay an employee from their company to do nothing but stand around and baby sit the manufacturing process to make sure the Chinese don't try to cut corners or something else crooked. Unless you have lots of money or a really good relation$hip withe manufacturer, your gonna get what ever they are gong to give you. I looked into placing an order myself from Crystalyte and Nine Continent. The people I talked to who have dealt with these companies got screwed pretty often. It's just how things are done in China, they are going to do what they are going to do and unless you have lots of money, are fluent in Chinese and can have someone baby sit the manufacturing, you get what you get. Just the way it is when you deal with them. It's this way with everything (remember melamine in the milk killing babies). I travel to Hong Kong a lot and meet a lot of people in air ports and on planes who deal with manufacturing. Some absolute horror stories, some in the millions of dollars.

Here is a great example that hurt 300,000 people and killed 6 babies. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2008_Chinese_milk_scandal Two greedy bastards were caught and promptly executed and several others jailed.

Enough of me griping about China (I love Hong Kong but haven't been to the mainland yet), but there is still some really goofy stuff that happens in Hong Kong too.

Pictures of the flange are posted in the first post of this thread. If the wheel needs to be dished any wheel builder can do it, it's not unusual. My front 20" BMX wheel using a mountain bikes disc brake hub should have been dished but I didn't realize it when I had it built so it's offset to one side a bit. Doesn't effect anything. If I would have brought in the fork they could have dished it but they didn't know (but asked me about it) and neither did I. I'm still able to fit a 2.5" wide Pirelli ML75 on the front so it's all good with me.

[BATFINK]

Are the new frames any different? I see on greyborg site it says new design coming in may?

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[BATFINK]

Any images of new frames?

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[hillzofvalp]

I worry somewhat about the 14mm vs 16mm axle change. Seeing how some high powered crystalytes' axles have failed, I wonder if a 16mm would be more appropriate. what do you think?

[hillzofvalp]

If someone wants to pay for shipping to Justin and then to my residence after testing, i wouldn't mind letting my motor be the guinea pig. I may even have him lace it while it's out there.

[zombiess]

I worry somewhat about the 14mm vs 16mm axle change. Seeing how some high powered crystalytes' axles have failed, I wonder if a 16mm would be more appropriate. what do you think?

It's not going to be an issue. I have the first version with a 16mm axle and if the new axles are the same metal they will be plenty strong. I was able to tighten up the nut so tight that I stripped the threads... on the nut. Axle wasn't even scratched. When I felt it spin my heart sank because I thought I stripped the axle and that would be bad. I was so happy when I figured out the nut was toast.

As much as I like the 16mm axles for their extra beef, getting torque arms fit was not possible by myself. Tried to have some ampedbikes torque arms modified but that didn't work out as well as I liked. Then I decided to have the stock dropouts cut off and DoctorBass's torque arms welded onto my swing arm extension and the problem was solved, gotta love steel.

Just wait until you guys see what I'm doing with one of the motors I'm getting. I'm going to stress these axles harder than probably anyone on here (14mm size). Here is a hint, think drag racing launch. If you are worried about strength, just run wider torque plates / arms to spread the force. I've also had great luck with my 9C motors running tons of power through with just ampedbikes torque arms and one side is hollow.

[neptronix]

I worry somewhat about the 14mm vs 16mm axle change. Seeing how some high powered crystalytes' axles have failed, I wonder if a 16mm would be more appropriate. what do you think?

Sorry zombiess, i hate throwing anything negative into a for sale thread, but i completely agree with hillsofvalp here.
This motor could easily put out 200ft-lb or more. A 14mm axle is going to be a weak spot for this motor.

I hope 16mm axles can be offered as an option, or aftermarket part.
A wider torque plate/arm won't help, the failure on high powered crystalytes occurred where the axle meets the bike's dropouts, not afterwards.

Prove my skepticism wrong, please!